7 Best Sights in Cuernavaca, Side Trips from Mexico City

On the southeast side of Plaza de Armas, you'll find this fascinating museum that reopened following a massive renovation that was needed after the building was badly damaged in the major earthquake that struck the region in 2017. Prior to that, the building was named Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, but it's also known as the Palacio de Cortés. The fortresslike building was constructed as a stronghold for Hernán Cortés in 1522, as the region had not been completely conquered at that time. His palace sits atop the ruins of Aztec buildings, some of which have been partially excavated. There are plenty of stone carvings from the area on display among the 19 exhibit galleries, with a highlight being the murals Diego Rivera painted between 1927 and 1930 on the second floor, depicting the history of Morelos.

This remarkable museum on a quiet street south of the Plaza de Armas showcases the collection of the decidedly eccentric artist, antiquarian, and decorator from Fort Dodge, Iowa, who traveled the world amassing an incredible array of works before settling in Cuernavaca in 1962. Ceramics, antique furniture, sculptures, paintings, and tapestries fill the restored 16th-century monastery, which is directly behind the Catedral de Cuernavaca. A number of Brady's works depict his illustrious friends, who included Josephine Baker, Peggy Guggenheim, and actor Geoffrey Holder. They're all magnificently arranged in rooms decorated with brightly painted tiles. Upon his death in 1986, Brady left the house and collection to the city government to be turned into a museum.

A trip to these ruins, which are a roughly 45-minute drive southwest of Cuernavaca, is one of the best reasons to visit the state of Morelos. Built by the Olmeca-Xicalanca people, the mighty hilltop city reached its peak between AD 700 and 900. It was abandoned a century later after being destroyed, perhaps by its own inhabitants. With its several layers of fortifications, the city appears unassailable. The most eye-catching edifice is the Pyrámide de Quetzalcóatl (Temple of the Plumed Serpent). Carvings of vicious-looking snakes—all in the style typical of the Maya to the south—wrap around the lower level, while figures in elaborate headdresses sit above. Be sure to seek out the Observatorio in a man-made cave reached through a tunnel on the northern side of the city. Through a narrow shaft in the ceiling, the Xochicalco astronomers could observe the heavens. Twice a year—May 14 and 15 and July 28 and 29—the sun passes directly over the opening, filling the room with light. From the ruins, you're also treated to an impressive view of the surrounding mountains.

Be sure to set aside at least a half-hour to explore the excellent solar-powered museum, where a wonderfully mounted exhibit of a wide variety of artifacts from Xochicalco are on display, including gorgeous sculptures of Xochicalco deities found nearby. There are dozens of other structures here, including three impressive ball courts.

Cortés ordered the construction of this cathedral, also known as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, with work beginning in 1525. Like his palace, the cathedral doubled as a fortress. Cannons mounted above the flying buttresses helped bolster the city's defenses. The facade may give you a sense of foreboding, especially when you catch sight of the skull and crossbones over the door. The interior is much less ominous, though, thanks to the stained-glass windows and the murals uncovered during renovations.

Among the most popular sights in the state of Morelos, the Borda Gardens were designed in the late 18th century for Don Manuel de la Borda, son of Don José de la Borda, a wealthy miner who established the beautiful church of Santa Prisca in Taxco. The gardens were once so famous they attracted royalty. Maximilian and Carlotta visited frequently. Here the emperor reportedly dallied with the gardener's wife, called La India Bonita, who was immortalized in a famous portrait. Novelist Malcolm Lowry turned the formal gardens into a sinister symbol in his 1947 novel Under the Volcano. A pleasant café and a well-stocked bookstore sit just inside the gates, and there's a cultural center that shows rotating art exhibits as well.

About a 40-minute drive south of Cuernavaca, just off toll Highway 95D, this sprawling 125-acre mashup between a theme park and a botanic garden is one of the region's leading attractions. The park claims to be the largest floral gardens in the world, and indeed, it takes two to three hours to walk the entire property, which is divided into a number of sections, each with its own theme and design: Italian, Japanese, cactus, tropical, labyrinth of senses, children's garden, and several more. A big focus of the owners are weddings and events, and there's also a large restaurant and gift shop---in other words, this experience is more commercial than a lot of traditional botanic gardens. That said, the whimsical animal-shape topiaries, thoughtfully designed paths, and sweeping views of the surrounding mountains make for a fun visit. Keep in mind that there isn't a lot of shade, so bring a hat and wear sunscreen.

The city's tree-shaded main square, which is partially lined with restaurants and shops, is marked by a hefty, volcanic-stone statue of revolutionary hero José María Morelos and a couple of little fountains. On weekdays the square fills with vendors from throughout the region. On weekends it is crowded with balloon sellers, amateur painters, and stalls for crafts, jewelry, and knickknacks. Opposite the northwest corner of the square is leafy Jardín Juárez, which hosts concerts in its bandstand, and on the southeast side of the square you can explore the excellent Museo Regional de los Pueblos de Morelos.