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This city is a food lover's town and restaurants abound, from humble kebab joints to fancy fish venues, with a variety of excellent options in between. Owing to its location on the Bosphorus, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, Istanbul is famous for its seafood. A classic Istanbul meal, usually eaten at one of the city's rollicking meyhanes (literally "drinking places"), starts off with a wide selection of tapas-style cold appetizers called meze, then a hot starter or two, and then moves on to a main course of grilled fish, all of it accompanied by the anise-flavored spirit rak?, Turkey's national drink. The waiter will generally bring a tray over to your table to show off the day’s meze and you simply point to what you’d like. Note that the portions you get are often larger than the samples shown on the tray, so don’t over-order; you can always select a second—or third—round later. When it comes to the main course, fish can be expensive, so check prices and ask what's in season before ordering. In Istanbul, fall and winter are the best seasons for seafood.
Istanbul's dining scene, though diverse, was once mostly limited to Turkish cooking, but a new generation of chefs is successfully fusing local dishes with more international flavors and preparations. Some are trained in the United States and Europe and bring home the contemporary culinary techniques they've learned abroad, and the result is a kind of nouvelle Turkish cuisine. Interest in little-known specialty foods and regional dishes from around Turkey is also taking hold, as chefs increasingly look at home, rather than abroad, for inspiration. Over the past few years, a handful of restaurants have opened where the chef-owner defines the vision and personality of the venue—though this may be old hat in Europe or North America, it represents an exciting new trend in Istanbul.
Istanbullus take their eating seriously, holding establishments to a very high standard; they expect their food to be fresh and well prepared at even the most basic of eateries, and are likely to feel that few places can hold a candle to "Mom’s cooking." That said, at restaurants catering to a trendier, more upscale crowd, style sometimes seems to pass for substance, and consistency can be elusive; the fanciest venues may not necessarily offer the best food.
Sultanahmet might have most of the city's major sights and many hotels, but sadly, these places cater mostly to tourists and are the ones most likely to let their standards slip. Save for a few standouts, the area is sorely lacking in good dining options, though you can find some good food if you follow the locals to the no-frills eateries lining Gedik Pa?a Caddesi (near the Beyaz?t tram stop, across Yeniçeriler Caddesi from the entrance to the Grand Bazaar) or to Hoca Pa?a Sokak near the Sirkeci train station. Overall, though, you'll have much better luck if you head across the Golden Horn, where the lively Beyo?lu district has everything from holes in the wall serving delicious home cooking to some of Istanbul's sleekest restaurants, while Karaköy and Galata also have an increasing range of dining options. Or head to some of the small, charming neighborhoods along the Bosphorus, which are famous for their fish restaurants; while these establishments tend to be more upscale and expensive, there are some affordable options as well.
Since Istanbullus love to go out, reservations are essential at most of the city's better restaurants. In summer, many establishments move their dining areas outdoors, and reservations become even more important if you want to snag a coveted outside table. For the most part, dining is casual, although locals enjoy dressing smartly when they're out. You may feel terribly underdressed if you show up in a restaurant dressed in shorts and a T-shirt, even in summer.
Despite Islamic proscriptions against alcohol, beer, wine, and the local spirit rak? are widely available, and at more upscale venues you can also find cocktails. Because of high taxes, however, alcoholic drinks—particularly anything imported—tend to be considerably more expensive than in North America or Europe. The national lager Efes is the most widely available beer; venues may carry two or three other domestic and international labels, but don’t expect a wide selection. Yeni Rak?, a state-run monopoly until not long ago, has remained the most popular rak? brand despite a recent proliferation of new companies producing the spirit. Wine consumption in Turkey has traditionally lagged far behind that of beer and rak?, but that’s been slowly changing in recent years as the quality of local wines has started to improve. The local wine industry is still in its fledgling stages compared to other parts of the world, but there are some very drinkable domestic wines on the market, most priced at only a fraction of what you’d pay for an imported label. Turkish wines are made from foreign grapes as well as indigenous varietals, of which the most noteworthy are the reds Öküzgözü, Bo?azkere, and Kalecik Karas? and the whites Emir and Narince.
During the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, restaurants that cater primarily to tourists, and most venues in cosmopolitan parts of Istanbul such as Beyo?lu, continue to operate normally. In more traditional neighborhoods some restaurants close altogether or change their hours of operation. In recent years, it has become increasingly popular to go to restaurants for iftar—the evening meal that breaks the daily fast—instead of having it in the home, as was traditionally done.
One of the best places to eat on any of the islands, Heyamola offers a daily selection of fresh vegetable and seafood meze, salads, and seafood, including specialties of the house like a sardine casserole or mezgit (whiting) cooked with white wine and ginger. The charming indoor-outdoor garden has a relaxing Aegean air.
The largest and one of the most popular branches of this local chain of chic eateries is directly on the waterfront, with stylish furnishings and two enormous open-air terraces. The international menu ranges from starters like Asian-style crispy chicken fingers and salmon ceviche to main-course salads, pastas, pizzas, steaks, and the signature house burger.
Drawing on Istanbul’s cosmopolitan past, this cozy spot offers meze and mains made from Armenian recipes, along with Greek, Ottoman, and Circassian dishes. With its white tablecloths and bookshelves in a low-ceiling space that opens out onto the street, Jash makes you feel as if you’ve stepped into someone’s home kitchen to taste all of Istanbul’s history.
This popular, cozy hangout, named after famous Turkish photographer Ara Güler, whose black-and-white photographs of Istanbul line the walls, is a nice place for a light meal or cup of coffee. The menu includes several Turkish meat dishes along with more international fare, such as grilled entrecôte (sirloin) steak with fries or tagliatelle with salmon.
By day, this sleek, airy restaurant with a large outdoor dining area offers a changing menu of reasonably priced Turkish vegetable and meat dishes. At night, it becomes a classy meyhane, serving an excellent variety of meze.
An oasis of well-brewed third wave coffee in the middle of traditional Sultanahmet, Khaldi is trendy without being ostentatious. There is a selection of pastries and both indoor and outdoor seating.
A popular neighborhood spot to sip lattes, this hip café offers an extensive coffee menu and light pastries to refuel.
With long lines snaking out the door in the summertime, Ali Usta Dondurma is Kadıköy’s most popular ice cream spot, with flavors that draw on local tastes like chestnut, pistachio, and Turkish coffee.
This brasserie-in-a-bookstore is a cozy place to enjoy a coffee surrounded by an extensive collection of Turkish and English-language books. The menu has a wide range of breakfast and lunch options.
A homey, pretention-free spot on the busy main stretch in Balat, Mitis Mantı only serves homemade mantı, small Turkish dumplings in garlic yogurt sauce. Unlike most other mantı places in town, Mitis Mantı has a vegetarian option on its menu.
Located just a short walk from the Bomontiada culture complex, Montag Bomonti pays attention to the details, with beans roasted in-house and impeccably pulled espresso.
This restored late-19th-century house with small, sun-dappled dining rooms, cozy furniture, and creaky wooden floors is a delightful refuge in the midst of the busy Sultanahmet neighborhood. The vast menu features a variety of kebabs and other Turkish specialties, as well as salads, pasta dishes, steaks, schnitzel, and other international fare.
Seasonal Turkish cuisine is served here with a contemporary twist, from cacık with smoked yogurt, charred garlic, and pickles to tender octopus slow-cooked for hours to fresh fish—all artfully plated. It is not surprising that Mehmet Gürs, the famous chef behind Mikla, is a consultant to the restaurant. Eat in the warm, spacious interior or on the large, all-season patio that affords sweeping Bosphorus views.
In business for three decades on Ortaköy's waterfront square, unpretentious Çınaraltı ("under the sycamore") has a massive sycamore tree growing up through its center and shading its upstairs terrace. The balık böreği (a spring roll-esque fish pastry) is a highlight of the wide though fairly standard meze selection, and the fish is mainly served grilled or fried (make sure the price quoted is per fish or serving, not per kilo).
One of the many fish restaurants along the water, Nissi stands out with its nautical decor and straw ceiling that makes the place feel like a fancy beach hut. The meze is the usual fare with a few surprising options mixed in.
Above the Spice Bazaar, this well-established restaurant has distinct turquoise tiled walls, white tablecloths, and low hanging chandeliers. The menu features local meat and fish dishes, including balık köfte (fish meatballs) and hünkar begendi (slow-roasted lamb over eggplant puree), as well as a selection of hot and cold starters.
Tucked away on a quieter street in the rowdy cluster of Karaköy cafes, Parsa has an elegant study hall vibe, complete with batch brew coffee. The cafe offers a selection of cakes and tarts as well as a menu of non-caffeinated beverages to complement its extensive coffee menu.
Located in the heart of Kadıköy, this welcoming patisserie has windows full of colorful cakes and traditional sweets. It's the perfect place to have a cup of tea and a sweet or savory Turkish pastry.
Set in the heart of Balat, this relaxed, two-story café has a small balcony overlooking the lively streets and a long coffee menu, along with a selection of local teas.
This calm cafe-restaurant on a quiet street in Arnavutkoy doubles as a shop for locally produced food products, including jams and olives. The food is healthy gourmet, and there is also a large selection of beautifully presented and freshly made pastries.
The meze, meatballs, salads, grilled fish, and other mainly Turkish fare are fresh and well prepared, but the hospitable service and lovely, secluded setting are what really make this restaurant attached to the Ada Palas hotel stand out. Seating is in a quaint, greenhouse-style structure or the lush garden, where one outdoor table is romantically draped in a filmy canopy. A lavish breakfast spread and assorted coffee and alcoholic drinks are also available.
Tucked away on a quiet street in Balat, this sophisticated restaurant is best known for its creative take on local seafood, with impeccably plated dishes that draw on seasonal ingredients. The multi-floor building opens up to a rooftop with views over the neighborhood.
There are no obsequious waiters at Sultanahmet Fish House and no fancy dress code—just a friendly, cozy atmosphere with well-prepared seafood, including sardines, octopus, fish dishes such as mackerel in olive oil, and a few kebabs. The preparations go beyond the standard grilling and frying: sea bass with saffron, cooked in a terra-cotta casserole, is a particular standout.
Like pizza for New Yorkers, humble köfte (grilled meatballs) inspire countless arguments among Istanbullus about who makes the best. Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi wins with a simple menu—meatballs, lamb kebab, lentil soup, piyaz (boiled white beans in olive oil), rice, and salad—that has remained virtually unchanged since 1920. Service is somewhat perfunctory, and this bustling place is not somewhere to linger, but the location just steps from the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya makes it ideal for a quick lunch.
Fitting for a restaurant housed in the Çırağan Palace, dinner here is a refined, luxurious affair, with formal service, rich Ottoman and Turkish specialties, and one of the most high-end wine lists in Turkey (Chateau Pétrus, anyone?). The pricey menu features cold and hot meze, and entrées emphasize fish and meat dishes, such as in the signature külbastı, lamb escalope served with pureed eggplant.
The large, relaxing back garden is the star attraction at this restaurant-café-bar in the midst of bustling central Kadıköy. A broad, mixed menu of Turkish and international fare has something for everyone: from salads and meze to fajitas and steak. The house wine is perfectly drinkable and not expensive.
Housed in a historic building not far from Istiklal Caddesi, Zeytuna serves elegant Middle Eastern dishes that are made for sharing. You can choose to eat in the dining hall or at the adjacent bar, with its low-slung couches and moody lighting, for a more casual experience.
This ocakbaşı, or grill house, is popular for its delicious food, authentic feel, and especially lively atmosphere. The kebabs are cooked on a special grill over hardwood coals—part of the fun here is watching the chefs at work—and include some cuts of meat not found on the average kebab menu, such as kaburga (lamb ribs).
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