Istanbul Restaurants

This city is a food lover's town and restaurants abound, from humble kebab joints to fancy fish venues, with a variety of excellent options in between. Owing to its location on the Bosphorus, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, Istanbul is famous for its seafood. A classic Istanbul meal, usually eaten at one of the city's rollicking meyhanes (literally "drinking places"), starts off with a wide selection of tapas-style cold appetizers called meze, then a hot starter or two, and then moves on to a main course of grilled fish, all of it accompanied by the anise-flavored spirit rak?, Turkey's national drink. The waiter will generally bring a tray over to your table to show off the day’s meze and you simply point to what you’d like. Note that the portions you get are often larger than the samples shown on the tray, so don’t over-order; you can always select a second—or third—round later. When it comes to the main course, fish can be expensive, so check prices and ask what's in season before ordering. In Istanbul, fall and winter are the best seasons for seafood.

Istanbul's dining scene, though diverse, was once mostly limited to Turkish cooking, but a new generation of chefs is successfully fusing local dishes with more international flavors and preparations. Some are trained in the United States and Europe and bring home the contemporary culinary techniques they've learned abroad, and the result is a kind of nouvelle Turkish cuisine. Interest in little-known specialty foods and regional dishes from around Turkey is also taking hold, as chefs increasingly look at home, rather than abroad, for inspiration. Over the past few years, a handful of restaurants have opened where the chef-owner defines the vision and personality of the venue—though this may be old hat in Europe or North America, it represents an exciting new trend in Istanbul.

Istanbullus take their eating seriously, holding establishments to a very high standard; they expect their food to be fresh and well prepared at even the most basic of eateries, and are likely to feel that few places can hold a candle to "Mom’s cooking." That said, at restaurants catering to a trendier, more upscale crowd, style sometimes seems to pass for substance, and consistency can be elusive; the fanciest venues may not necessarily offer the best food.

Sultanahmet might have most of the city's major sights and many hotels, but sadly, these places cater mostly to tourists and are the ones most likely to let their standards slip. Save for a few standouts, the area is sorely lacking in good dining options, though you can find some good food if you follow the locals to the no-frills eateries lining Gedik Pa?a Caddesi (near the Beyaz?t tram stop, across Yeniçeriler Caddesi from the entrance to the Grand Bazaar) or to Hoca Pa?a Sokak near the Sirkeci train station. Overall, though, you'll have much better luck if you head across the Golden Horn, where the lively Beyo?lu district has everything from holes in the wall serving delicious home cooking to some of Istanbul's sleekest restaurants, while Karaköy and Galata also have an increasing range of dining options. Or head to some of the small, charming neighborhoods along the Bosphorus, which are famous for their fish restaurants; while these establishments tend to be more upscale and expensive, there are some affordable options as well.

Since Istanbullus love to go out, reservations are essential at most of the city's better restaurants. In summer, many establishments move their dining areas outdoors, and reservations become even more important if you want to snag a coveted outside table. For the most part, dining is casual, although locals enjoy dressing smartly when they're out. You may feel terribly underdressed if you show up in a restaurant dressed in shorts and a T-shirt, even in summer.

Despite Islamic proscriptions against alcohol, beer, wine, and the local spirit rak? are widely available, and at more upscale venues you can also find cocktails. Because of high taxes, however, alcoholic drinks—particularly anything imported—tend to be considerably more expensive than in North America or Europe. The national lager Efes is the most widely available beer; venues may carry two or three other domestic and international labels, but don’t expect a wide selection. Yeni Rak?, a state-run monopoly until not long ago, has remained the most popular rak? brand despite a recent proliferation of new companies producing the spirit. Wine consumption in Turkey has traditionally lagged far behind that of beer and rak?, but that’s been slowly changing in recent years as the quality of local wines has started to improve. The local wine industry is still in its fledgling stages compared to other parts of the world, but there are some very drinkable domestic wines on the market, most priced at only a fraction of what you’d pay for an imported label. Turkish wines are made from foreign grapes as well as indigenous varietals, of which the most noteworthy are the reds Öküzgözü, Bo?azkere, and Kalecik Karas? and the whites Emir and Narince.

During the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, restaurants that cater primarily to tourists, and most venues in cosmopolitan parts of Istanbul such as Beyo?lu, continue to operate normally. In more traditional neighborhoods some restaurants close altogether or change their hours of operation. In recent years, it has become increasingly popular to go to restaurants for iftar—the evening meal that breaks the daily fast—instead of having it in the home, as was traditionally done.

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  • 1. Aheste

    $$$$ | Beyoglu

    A casual café by day and an inviting bistro venue by night, stylish Aheste (meaning "slowly" in Persian) offers a small but appealing menu consisting mainly of hot and cold meze with some Persian, Ottoman, and Middle Eastern influences with contemporary twists; the sea beans with smoked yogurt and rose petals and the wild rice with currants and herbs are particularly tasty. Prices are a bit high, but the friendly, laid-back service and hip-yet-cozy atmosphere make up for it.

    Mesrutiyet Cad. 107/F, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    212-243–2633

    Known For

    • Innovative fusion cuisine
    • Extensive wine and cocktail list
    • Chef's tasting menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 2. Arada Endülüs

    $$ | Karaköy

    With ornate Arabesque decorations and mosaic lamps, this centrally located café is an atmospheric place to spend a long morning. The picturesque breakfast spread is expansive and includes a mixture of Turkish and Lebanese dishes. Arada has two other outposts, one a five-minute walk up the hill from this one and the other in Üsküdar.

    Kemeraltı Cad. 31, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    544-170–0050

    Known For

    • Colorful atmosphere
    • Turkish-Lebanese fusion cuisine
    • Extensive breakfast spread
  • 3. Forno

    $$ | Western Districts

    Part of a new wave of small cafés, craft shops, restaurants, and antiques dealers popping up in the atmospheric but long-neglected neighborhood of Balat, Forno distinguishes itself with owner Yona Grunberg’s short, high-quality menu of freshly prepared pides, pizzas, salads, and soups. With its brightly colored geometric tiles, exposed-brick walls, and large wooden communal table, this is an equally pleasant place to just relax for a while over a coffee or tea, and the weekend breakfast gets raves.

    Fener Kireçhane Sok. 13, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    212-521–2900

    Known For

    • Cozy, relaxing atmosphere
    • Pizza and pide
    • Weekend breakfast
  • 4. Gümrük Karaköy

    $$ | Karaköy

    Greek chef Stavriani Zervakakou brings a skillful hand and a variety of Mediterranean influences to her menu at this Karaköy restaurant, where the impeccable service matches the top-notch food. Lighter fare such as a gourmet version of a classic Istanbul fish sandwich is available throughout the day, while dinner specials include adventurous preparations such as smoked sardine with melon or keşkek (a traditional wheat stew) with cinnamon and grilled kidney.

    Gümrük Sok. 4, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    212-244–2252

    Known For

    • Beautiful, quirky decorations
    • Innovative Mediterranean cuisine
    • Sidewalk seating

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Reservations essential
  • 5. Kafe Ara

    $$ | Beyoglu

    This popular, cozy hangout, named after famous Turkish photographer Ara Güler, whose black-and-white photographs of Istanbul line the walls, is a nice place for a light meal or cup of coffee. The menu includes several Turkish meat dishes along with more international fare, such as grilled entrecôte (sirloin) steak with pommes frites or tagliatelle with salmon.

    Tosbağı Sok. 2, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    212-245–4105

    Known For

    • Alfresco seating out front
    • Wide variety of salads and pastas
    • Warm and inviting atmosphere
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  • 6. Minoa

    $$ | Besiktas

    This brasserie-in-a-bookstore is a cozy place to enjoy a coffee surrounded by an extensive collection of Turkish and English-language books. The menu has a wide range of breakfast and lunch options.

    Süleyman Seba Cad. 52, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    212-236–9452
  • 7. Pasifik Pastanesi

    $ | Asian Side

    Located in the heart of Kadıköy, this welcoming patisserie has windows full of colorful cakes and traditional sweets. It's the perfect place to have a cup of tea and a sweet or savory Turkish pastry.

    Moda Cad. 76, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    216-346–1430

    Known For

    • Fresh-made cakes and pastries
    • Friendly service
    • Outdoor seating
  • 8. Secret Garden Restaurant

    $$$ | Princes Islands

    The meze, meatballs, salads, grilled fish, and other mainly Turkish fare are fresh and well prepared, but the hospitable service and lovely, secluded setting are what really make this restaurant attached to the Ada Palas hotel stand out. Seating is in a quaint, greenhouse-style structure or the lush garden, where one outdoor table is romantically draped in a filmy canopy. A lavish breakfast spread and assorted coffee and alcoholic drinks are also available.

    Çiçekyalı Sok. 24, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    216-382–1444

    Known For

    • Garden seating
    • Wide array of meze
    • Seasonal fish selection
  • 9. The House Café Ortaköy

    $$$ | Bosphorus

    The largest and one of the most popular branches of this local chain of chic eateries is directly on the waterfront, with stylish furnishings and two enormous open-air terraces. The international menu ranges from starters like Asian-style crispy chicken fingers and salmon ceviche to main-course salads, pastas, pizzas, steaks, and the signature house burger.

    Salhane Sok. 1, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    212-227–2699-Ortaköy

    Known For

    • Excellent cocktail list
    • Views of the Bosphorus
    • Lively atmosphere
  • 10. Voi Feriye

    $ | Ortaköy

    Situated on the Ortaköy seaside, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out on the Bosphorus, Voi is a relaxing place to grab a coffee and a quick breakfast with a view.

    Çırağan Cad. 44, Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
    216-227–2216

    Known For

    • Bosphorus views
    • Breakfast bowls
    • Stylish atmosphere

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