For a contrast to the glamour of the coast, drive up to Ojén, in the hills above Marbella. Take note of the beautiful pottery and, if you're here the first week in August, don't miss the Festival de Flamenco, which attracts some of Spain's most respected flamenco names, including Juan Pe?a Fernández (aka El Lebrijano), Miguel Póveda, and Marina Heredia. Four kilometers (2½ miles) from Ojén is the Refugio del Juanar, a former hunting lodge in the heart of the Sierra Blanca, at the southern edge of the Serranía de Ronda, a mountainous wilderness. A walking trail takes you a mile from the refugio to the mirador (lookout), with a sweeping view of the Costa del Sol and the coast of North Africa.

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