Torel Quinta da Vacaria
This newcomer to the Douro has made a splash with its schist-clad contemporary architecture, an infinity pool overlooking the river, and the Schistó restaurant, the latest showcase (literally: the €180 tasting menu is prepared in full view of diners) for Portugal's chef of the moment, Vitor Matos. He also drew up the menu at the 16 Legoas restaurant, which offers unusual snacks and mains drawing on regional traditions. Guest lodgings in the old house include several duplexes; here and in the new wing, all have valley views, and half have terraces, some with whirlpool tubs (and one with its own pool); inside, wood panels and trim contrast with blocks of mint green and aquamarine, and television screens are concealed as mirrors. Common areas are both stylish and cozy; even in the corridors, aromatherapy machines contribute to the feeling of relaxation.