For all the hyped natural wine bar–cum-bistros that now characterize casual-elegant, fun, modern, boozy dining in all major cities, Spontan sets the benchmark. With an open kitchen and visible wine cellar, this restaurant serves beguilingly fresh small plates—note the cute bric-a-brac, pantrylike glass, and earthenware—that burst with color and character like char, scallops, chicken liver mousse, and king crab; we'd be remiss if we didn't mention the meticulously paired pours that complement them. Summer-in-a-bowl raspberries with milk ice cream and Comtè-filled petit-fours will leave you sounding off to fellow wine-diners around the world about this spontaneous find on a cobbled old street near the water. A smaller, but just as robust and beautiful, menu is available Tuesday through Thursday, and there are bar snacks if you're just here for drinks.