Fodor's Expert Review Al Fontego dei Pescatori

Having had a stall at the Rialto fish market for more than 25 years, and being the president of the area fishmongers association for 10, proprietor "Lolo" knows his fish. The seafood served here might just be the freshest in Venice. Antipasti include Orologio, a "clock" of raw selections; Poker, four different tartars of seafood and fresh fruit; and succulent grilled capelunghe (razor clams). The pasta is served al dente, the risotto al onda (undulating, as opposed to firm). Chef Massimo prepares entrées simply but always with a twist, such as branzino (sea bass) topped with its own crispy skin or a frizzle of zucchini. The wine list includes excellent regional choices that pair well with fish. There's meat for non–fish eaters, too. The dining rooms are spacious and the garden is enchanting in temperate weather.