Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale
Gentle front-of-house Roberto welcomes and chef wife Marilea creates exquisite, delicately flavored dishes amid a whitewashed room filled with antique mirrors, oddities, and assorted bottles. You could start with smoked eggplant and ricotta flan or dive into adventurous territory with the risotto of foie gras and sea-urchin ice cream, but it's best to concentrate on the mains that feature lamb, amberjack, and baccalà cod.