400 Best Sights in Ireland

Hidden away behind tall walls in the center of town for many years, Killarney House is the official visitor center to Killarney National Park. Dating from the early 1700s, the house was originally the stable block of a more imposing manor that burned down in 1913. Today it contains a museum with information about Killarney Town and an interactive exhibition about the flora and fauna of Killarney National Park, as well as changing art exhibits relating to the area. The long-established formal gardens, spread over 30 acres, have been restored to their original 1720s French layout, and are enhanced by the natural backdrop of Killarney's wild mountains under a huge, ever-changing sky. There are easily accessible walks laid out in the grounds, and free guided tours every half hour.

The three Lakes of Killarney and the mountains and woods that surround them make up this beautiful national park. It extends to nearly 25,000 acres, which includes oak, holly, and yew woodlands, and is populated by red deer. The National Park Visitor Centre in town offers an audiovisual presentation that is a good introduction to what you can explore on the signposted self-guiding trails that thread the park.

The heart of the park is Muckross House & Gardens, which is 6 km (4 miles) from Killarney on N71. You can drive, walk, rent a bicycle, or take a traditional jaunting car (pony and a cart) to the house and from there explore this amazing landscape by foot or bicycle.

The air here smells of damp woods and heather moors. The red fruits of the Mediterranean strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) are at their peak in October and November, which is also about the time when the bracken turns rust color, contrasting with the evergreens. In late April and early May, the purple flowers of the rhododendron ponticum put on a spectacular display.

The mannequins that recite the backstory of the King clan haven’t a cheerful disposition, but then again, neither did the family they depict, and many of them have a grim tale to tell in this large, white-painted Georgian mansion. The often brutal, sometimes glorious stories of Connaught chieftains, sibling squabbles, and the tragedy and evictions during the famine are just some of the topics recounted. Many of the props are interactive and child friendly---and Tarzan The Ape Man (1934) and Hannah and Her Sisters (1986) star Maureen O’Sullivan, who was born in Boyle, has a room devoted to her story. The King family moved to Lough Key until it burnt down in 1957, while King House fell into disuse after it had a stint as an army barracks. The courtyard has a crafts shop, café, and weekly farmers’ market.

On the northern bank of the River Boyne, King William's Glen is where a portion of King William of Orange's Protestant army hid before the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. They won by surprising the Catholic troops of James II, who were on the southern side, but many of the Protestant–Catholic conflicts in present-day Northern Ireland can be traced to the immediate aftermath of this battle. The site is marked with an orange-and-green sign; part of the site is also incorporated in the nearby early-19th-century Townley Hall Estate, which has forest walks and a nature trail (the house is not open to the public).

Snack on a homemade burger while stocking up on chutneys, charcuterie, farmhouse cheeses, salads, and organic veggies and fruit at this cute piazza market.

Leaving Lismore, head east on N72 for 6½ km (4 miles), then north on R669 into the Knockmealdown Mountains. From the summit, called Vee Gap, you'll have superb views of the Galtee Mountains in the northwest and a peak called Slievenamon in the northeast. If the day is clear, you should be able to see the Rock of Cashel, ancient seat of the Kings of Munster, some 32 km (20 miles) away. Just before you enter the Vee Gap, look for a 6-foot-high mound of stones beside the road. It marks the grave of Colonel Grubb, a local landowner who liked the view so much that he arranged to be buried here standing up so that he could look out over the scene for all eternity.

The oldest inn in town, Kyteler's is notorious as the place where Dame Alice Le Kyteler, a member of a wealthy banking family and an alleged witch and "brothel keeper," was accused in 1324 of poisoning her four husbands. So, at least, said the enemies of this apparently very merry widow. The restaurant retains its medieval aura, thanks to its 14th-century stonework and exposed beams down in the cellar, built up around Kieran's Well, which predates the house itself. Food and drink in this popular pub are as simple and plentiful as they would have been in Dame Alice's day—minus her extra ingredients.

Connecting 10 of the county's celebrated formal gardens and expertly maintained privately owned ones, this driving route promotes the area's horticultural heritage. There's no trailhead for the tour so start the trail wherever you wish and spend as long as you'd like in each garden. Stops include the state-run gardens at Emo Court and Heywood House, as well as Gash Gardens in Castletown, which offers a delightful river walk along the banks of the Nore; the demesne gardens of Castle Durrow, with its glorious scented roses; and the organically managed potager-style kitchen garden of Dunmore Country School, just outside Durrow. For those interested and with time to spare, the Dunmore School also holds one-day gardening courses. There is a charge for only one garden, at Ballintubbert (€10); admission to the others is free.

Maps of the trail are available in Portlaoise Tourist Office based in the Dunamaise Arts Centre in Church Street.

Stop by the Portlaoise Tourist Office in the Dunamaise Arts Centre to pick up a map of the Laois Heritage Trail, a signposted, daylong drive on quiet back roads that takes in 13 heritage sites, ranging from Abbeyleix to Emo Court. The circular trail starts in Borris-in-Ossory on the N7.

Some sites along the trail charge an admission fee.

In the village of Laracor, a wall to the left of the rectory marks the now-destroyed building where Jonathan Swift (1667–1745), the satirical writer, poet, and author of Gulliver's Travels, was rector from 1699 until 1713, when he was made dean of St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin. Nearby are the walls of the cottage where Esther Johnson, the "Stella" who inspired much of Swift's writings, once lived.

The town's arts center has a calendar of exhibitions, concerts and performances, a crafts shop, and a handy coffee shop with home baking. It occupies an imposing gray limestone building dating from 1790, when the town had a thriving linen industry.

In the former town courthouse, Lismore Heritage Center and its exhibits focus on the town's Celtic origins and its links to famous people from Sir Walter Raleigh to Prince Charles to Fred Astaire. Lismore Experience, an impressive video presentation, charts the history of the town from its monastic 7th-century origins up to the present day, with a virtual reality tour of the castle an additional option. The center also has a large crafts shop, and the Robert Boyle Escape Room is a fun way to uncover the great discoveries of the noted local 17th-century scientist.

In a small annex at the Church of the Little Ark, just outside the tiny village of Kilbaha, is a wonderfully quirky slice of local history. During penal times Roman Catholic parishioners were restricted access to church, so Father Michael Meehan came up with the idea of holding mass in "no man's land" or rather, no man's sea, much to the frustration of local landlords. The little ark was the size of a carriage and fully assembled by 1852, when it was pulled into the shallow waters of a local cove, where locals could worship uninterrupted.

Loop Head Lighthouse has kept navigators on the right watery path since its construction in 1670. The current, pint-size white tower house was built in 1854 and is open for tours. On a fine day, views from the balcony encompass the Blaskets in the south to the 12 Pin Mountains in Connemara. There's a lighthouse exhibition in the lightkeeper's cottage.

From Whitsunday to the Feast of the Assumption (June to mid-August), tens of thousands beat a path to the shores of Lough Derg, ringed by heather-clad slopes. In the center of the lake, Station Island—known as St. Patrick's Purgatory (the saint is said to have fasted here for 40 days and nights)—is one of Ireland's most popular pilgrimage sites and a haven for those seeking spiritual renewal. It's also the most rigorous and austere of such sites in the country. Pilgrims stay on the island for three days with restricted sleeping, and ingest only black tea and dry toast. They pay €75 to walk barefoot around the island, on its flinty stones, and pray at a succession of shrines. Nonpilgrims may not visit the island from June to mid-August. Outside this period you can also visit the island for a "Quiet Day" trip (9:30 am–4:30 pm) that costs €45 including the boat journey and lunch. In the Basilica of St. Patrick's Purgatory look out for the astonishing work of the Irish stained-glass artist Harry Clarke, whose 14 windows feature the apostles, St. Paul, and the Virgin Mary. To find out how to become a pilgrim, phone or visit the website for more details. To reach the shores of Lough Derg, turn off the main N15 Sligo–Donegal road in the village of Laghy on to the minor R232 Pettigo road, which hauls itself over the Black Gap and descends sharply into the border village of Pettigo, about 21 km (13 miles) from the N15. From here, take the Lough Derg access road for 8 km (5 miles). During pilgrim season, buses connect to Pettigo, but it is best to phone or check the website before the new season starts in May, as details can vary from year to year.

The Luan Gallery has created a much-needed municipal space to showcase the work of local artists from throughout the Midlands. Since its opening in 2012, Athlone's cultural status has risen a few notches, and this contemporary visual-arts gallery, idyllically sited on the River Shannon, has been well supported by both townspeople and tourists. While it organizes exhibitions and guided tours featuring both emerging and established local artists, the Luan also draws on the national and international permanent collection of the Irish Museum of Modern Art in Dublin.

Lynch's Castle, once the stronghold of Galway's ruling family, dates back to 1600. These days it's occupied by a branch of a local bank, making its stone fireplace accessible to the public. Check out the gargoyles peering from its facade before heading around the corner to find Lynch's window. According to legend, magistrate and mayor James Lynch FitzStephen hanged his son from its sturdy Gothic frame as punishment for the murder of a Spanish sailor.

Wander off the beaten path to discover the inauguration site of Ireland’s greatest king, Brian Boru. Weaving through narrow country lanes, Magh Adhair appears to the left in the shape of a large grass-coated mound of earth, just past a small stone bridge that crosses Hell River. The mound is in fact a natural amphitheater where a lone voice could cut through large crowds during important regional ceremonies. It’s one of the most sacred druid sites in Munster and believed to be the final resting place of Adhar, whose brother, Aengus, built Dun Aengus—a giant hill fort overlooking the ocean in the Aran Islands. Watch out for the bullaun (basin) stone altar, which looks like a giant’s molar with a smooth, bowl-shape top. The druids believed that this altar captured hallowed water that protected their chieftains during and after life.

Park the car before reaching the site as the road is very narrow.

This township is chiefly known for its glorious Malahide Castle, a picture-book castle occupied by the Talbot family from 1185 until 1976, when it was sold to the local County Council. The great expanse of parkland around the castle has more than 5,000 different species of trees and shrubs, all clearly labeled. The castle itself combines styles and crosses centuries; the earliest section, the three-story tower house, dates from the 12th century. The stunning walled gardens are now open to the public, with a fairy trail for kids and a butterfly house. Hung with many family portraits, the medieval great hall is the only one in Ireland that is preserved in its original form. Authentic 18th-century pieces furnish the other rooms. An impressive new addition includes a visitor center, the Avoca restaurant, and a shop.

At the center of Castlebar is the pleasant tree-lined Mall, with some good 18th-century houses. A memorial honors the French soldiers who died during the 1798 uprising when Castlebar was briefly the capital of “the Provisional Republic of Connaught.” The Mall was once a cricket pitch belonging to the local landlord, Lord Lucan, and is now a town park.

When Ireland's first public library was founded and endowed in 1701 by Narcissus Marsh, the archbishop of Dublin, it was made open to "All Graduates and Gentlemen." The two-story brick Georgian building has remained virtually the same since then. It houses a priceless collection of 250 manuscripts and 25,000 15th- to 18th-century books. Many of these rare volumes were locked inside cages, as were the readers who wished to peruse them. The cages were to discourage the often impecunious students, who may have been tempted to make the books their own. The library has been restored with great attention to its original architectural details, especially in the book stacks. It's a short walk west from St. Stephen's Green and is accessed through a charming little cottage garden.

Waterford's newest museum cleverly incorporates two medieval-era structures within its walls. Inside, the focus is on Waterford's rich Norman history. A collection of rare and beautiful artifacts includes the Charter Roll of 1372, a list of all charters granted to Waterford up to that time, written in Latin. Also here you'll find the sword of King Edward IV and 15th-century "Cloth of Gold" religious vestments—a true work of art. There's a detailed audiovisual display to add to the experience.

A spectacular retractable canopy of four 70-foot "umbrellas" has turned this already vibrant square into a year-round playground for Dubliners. The square, which is behind the Ark children's center and accessed via Curved Street, takes its name from a nearby Quaker meetinghouse. Today it's something of a gathering place for Dublin's youth and artists. Numerous cultural events—classic movies, theater, games, and family programs—take place here. (Thankfully, seats can be installed for screenings.) The square is also a favorite site for the continuously changing street sculpture that pops up all over Temple Bar (artists commissioned by the city sometimes create oddball pieces, such as half of a Volkswagen protruding from a wall). The square is also a great spot to sit, people-watch, and take in the sounds of the performing buskers who swarm to the place. There's also an organic food market here every Saturday all day.

For Northern Ireland, you can find information at the Mellon Centre for Migration Studies at the Ulster American Folk Park.

Located in one of Ireland's few planned squares---an area where Collins lived as a boy---this museum maps the struggle for Irish independence from early days until 1922. History comes alive through interactive displays, audiovisuals, information boards, and artifacts. Although Collins, the famous statesman and politician, is the focus here, other periods---such as the rebellion of 1798---are also included. 

This prehistoric hill fort, once populated with the most powerful chieftains in the region, is the largest of its kind in Ireland. It commands a sweeping view of the Shannon, Ireland’s longest river, which made it a strategic outlook for enemies navigating the main transport artery into the region. Today, a series of sturdy concentric walls set into a deep hilly thicket that hugs the northern territory of Dromoland Estate are what remain of this former dynasty's stronghold, constructed around 1000 BC. Information markers guide visitors past significant landmarks over the 27 acres, and a stone tower at the summit of the hill offers a rewarding view over the countryside. While much of the experience here is in your imagination (as in, imagining what would have once taken place on this very ground), the site makes for a truly beautiful and serene woodland walk, and it is particularly attractive in early autumn when the oak, horse chestnut, and beech trees turn every shade of crimson and amber.

Turn to the left on leaving Mooghaun, and heading toward Quin, cast an eye over a humped-back bridge. It was the site of Europe’s greatest gold find, many pieces of which are on display in Dublin and at the British Museum in London. The hoard belonged to the residents of Mooghaun.

Don't miss Morrissey's. A working public house since 1775, this is one of Ireland's best-loved drinking emporiums and has a dark, wood-panel interior furnished with antique bar fittings. Customers can warm themselves by an ancient potbelly stove. Until 2005, this establishment still functioned as a shop, and while it retains its stocks of groceries, they are no longer for sale. An evocative time capsule, it serves as a reminder of times when you could purchase a pound of butter, the newspaper, and cattle feed while enjoying the obligatory pint of Guinness. They serve sandwiches in the afternoon, which you can enjoy alfresco at picnic tables at the front of the bar, and pizzas are available into the late evening.

The best views of town and the surrounding area are from the top of the Motte of Navan. This grassy mound is said to be the tomb of Odhbha, the wife of a Celtic king who, the story goes, died of a broken heart. It's more likely that the 50-foot-high mound is a natural formation. In the 12th century, D'Angulo, the Norman baron, adapted it into a motte and bailey (a type of medieval Norman castle), but there are no structural remains here from this period.

The first post-Reformation monastery, Mount Melleray Abbey was founded in 1832 by the Cistercian Order in what was then a barren mountainside wilderness. Over the years the order has transformed the site into more than 600 acres of fertile farmland. The monks maintain strict vows of silence, but you're welcome to join in services throughout the day and are permitted into most areas of the abbey. It's also possible to stay in the guest lodge. There's a small heritage center about the history of Irish monasticism with a few ogham stones and a short film.

Covering more than 20 acres on the banks of the River Vartry, the gardens were first laid out in 1868 by textile magnate Edward Walpole. Succeeding generations further planted and maintained the grounds, which today include more than 5,000 types of native and nonnative plants. The gardener has made the most of the riverside locale by planting eucalyptus, azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons. The river is visible from nearly everywhere in the gardens; miniature suspension bridges bounce and sway underfoot as you cross the river. Near the entrance, you'll find a cluster of crafts shops (including a pottery workshop) as well as a country clothing shop and café. The twin villages of Ashford and Rathnew are to the south and east, and Newtownmountkennedy is to the north.