Lehel Csarnok
Architect László Rajk got a lot of negative attention for his design of this market, unveiled in 2002 and considered one of Budapest’s ugliest buildings. But even those who call this gaudy, yellow-and-red building by its nickname, the Kofahajónak (the ship for peasant grannies), cannot deny that Lehel Csarnok is one of the best markets in town for produce, meat, and other local food products. Stroll the aisles for kolbász (Hungarian sausage), körözött (a spicy cottage cheese spread), savanyúság (pickled goods), local honey, cheese, and the freshest fruit around. If you fancy something unique, try the Ló- or Szarvaskolbász (horse or deer sausage) or kovászos uborka (fermented pickles). You will have to try out some Hungarian here, as most vendors are local farmers just doing their business at the local market. When you are done, reward yourself with lángos, the traditional Hungarian fried bread (best covered with sour cream, cheese, and garlic), and a beer at the popular Lángos Centrum. The site has always been popular as a market ground as well as embedded in colloquial controversy. The original open-air market was built over part of a local cemetery in 1890 when the square was called Ferdinánd tér. One hundred years later, when the old complex was finally torn down, construction halted as rumors of a Jewish cemetery underneath were explored. For now, it looks like the ship of the peasant grannies will sail on for many more years to come.
