Follow the lead of the locals and visiting Athenians and, for an excursion, take a bus (a 25-minute ride from Ethneyersias Square) to the pretty port village of Perdika to unwind and eat lunch at a seaside taverna. Places to eat in Perdika have multiplied over the years but are still low-key and have a strong island flavor, transporting you light-years away from the bustle of much of modern Greece. Try O Nontas, the first fish taverna after the bus station, for a meal on the canopied terrace overlooking the little bay, the sailing boats, and the islet of Moni. Antonis, the famous fish tavern, draws big-name Athenians year-round. Across the bay, and only a short walk away, stands the sole modern building of a camera obscura. Inside, the cylindrical chamber allows the light to enter and projects an inverted image of the landscape outside—a technique that is now thought to have been used by many celebrated artists, including Leonardo and Vermeer. It is definitely worth a visit.

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