A spectacular stretch of coast road west of Samos Town is lined with olive groves and vineyards and ends in the fishing village of Kokkari, one of the most lively spots on the island during the summer. Until 1980, not much was here except for a few dozen houses between two headlands, and tracts of onion fields, which gave the town its name. Though now there are hotels and European tourists, you can still traipse along the rocky, windswept beach and spy fishermen mending trawling nets on the paved quay. Cross the spit to the eastern side of the headland and watch the moon rise over the lights of Samos Town (Vathi) in the next bay. East of Kokkari you pass by Malagari, the winery where farmers hawk their harvested grapes every September.

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