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Doesn't anybody eat at home anymore? When you're on vacation, travelers don't have much choice in the matter, but these days—even in the throes of the current economic crisis—Athenians are going out to restaurants (many of which have lowered their prices accordingly) in record numbers. And it's easy for visitors to the capital to become a part of the clatter, chatter, and song, especially at the city's neighborhood tavernas.
These Athenian landmarks were famous for their wicker chairs that inevitably pinched your bottom, wobbly tables that needed coins under one leg, and hima wine drawn from the barrel. There are still plenty of them around, but today some of their clientele has moved up to a popular new restaurant hybrid: the "gastro-taverna," which serves traditional fare in surroundings that are more modern and creative. Most are located in the up-and-coming industrial-cum-arty districts of Central Athens, such as Gazi-Kerameikos and Metaxourgeio and attract youths who stay nibbling, sipping tsipouro (a distilled grape spirit), and laughing for hours. At the same time, enduring in popularity are the traditional magereia ("cookeries"): humble, no-frills eateries where the food, usually displayed behind glass windows, is cooked in grandma's style—it's simple, honest, time-tested, filling comfort food. Some noteworthy magereia are located around the bustling Ayias Irinis Square in the heart of Monastiraki. Of course cheap, filling, and delicious souvlaki is more popular than ever, and local favorites still have queues. Meanwhile, Athenians' evolving taste for exotic foods, combined with a tighter budget, has led to the opening of numerous ethnic street food restaurants—some just holes in the wall—serving expertly made, authentic options.
Trends? Athens has them. Health-centric restaurants specializing in vegan, vegetarian, and raw food seem to be blossoming more, as well as sophisticated juice bars. These would have stood out just a few years ago; now they have competitors. Organic food stores can be found in every neighborhood, many selling Greek-grown concoctions made in the traditional style by small producers, many of whom returned to the rural homeland after facing unemployment; look for local truffle oils, unpasteurized craft beer, and gold leaf honey. Most Greeks value pure, high-quality, and easily accessible staples like the seasonal vegetables and fruit, medicinal handpicked herb teas, and nuts that they hunt for at the weekly neighborhood laiki market, as well as the multitude of Greek product stores. With less money to spend, Athenians now order more discerningly and in smaller quantities, but they resolutely linger outside, which never seems to be a problem for restaurant owners.
But some things remain eternal. Athenian dining is seasonal. In August, when residents scatter to the hills and seaside, many restaurants and tavernas close, with the hippest bar-restaurants reopening at choice seaside positions. And visitors remain shocked by how late Greeks dine. It's normal (even on a weekday) to show up for a meal at 9 or 10 and to leave long after midnight, only to head off for drinks. Hotel restaurants, seafood places, and Plaka tavernas keep very late hours. Most places serve lunch from about noon to 4 (and sometimes as late as 6) and dinner from about 8 or 9 until at least midnight. When in Athens, don't hesitate to adopt this Zorbaesque lifestyle. Eat, drink, party, and enjoy life—knowing full well that, as a traveler, there can always be a siesta the next day.
Founded way back in 1898, this is one of the few remaining Plaka tavernas serving reliably good food with excellent Acropolis views. It doesn't draw the same crowd of locals as in the past, and it doesn't just serve fish, as the name suggests; rather, you'll find simple tasty entrées such as rooster in wine sauce, arnaki pilino (lamb baked in clay pots), moussaka, grilled meat, and wild mushroom risotto.
As you are handed the menu, you'll find it nearly impossible to avert your eyes from the stunning view from the very top of verdant Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens; the Acropolis glitters below, and beyond it, the metropolis unfolds like a map out to the Saronic Gulf. The restaurant centers on gourmet Mediterranean cuisine with bold French elements, but the chef also cooks up playful renditions of classic Greek dishes. The restaurant is reached by cable car or by foot only.
Stop in to taste some artfully tasty pittes (pies) to go that are made without using yeast in a wood-burning oven. Since 1981, the bakery (which now has three branches in Athens and one in Vienna) uses its own stone mill to grind the grains used in the pies, which have a perfectly crisp, buttery pastry, and comforting fillings made with high-quality ingredients. Try the creamy feta cheese or spinach pie, and grab a loaf of sourdough bread stuffed with feta and tomato for later.
Time to spice up your trip? Head down to Poncho, a funky little neon-lit shack on the busy Karitsi Square. Authentic handmade tortillas topped with the freshest of ingredients—you'll be craving them for days afterward. These tacos are the bomb!
Halfway up Lycabettus hill (around a 10-minute walk up the steps from Aristippou Street) you'll find this sprawling café-bar with its sumptuous panoramic views over the city. Stop here for a coffee, aperitif, and sandwich (or more if you're hungry, as there is a restaurant area, too) with one of the most fantastic vistas in Athens. After being closed for some 20 years this is now a popular hangout year-round, offering tourists and locals a like a moment of magical respite surrounded by greenery.
This is a refreshing addition to the Athenian dinner scene created by the Greek-Japanese owner-chef of (also very hip) Nolan. Diners keep returning to delight in an inventive, improvisational, and experimental menu based on the season's best-quality ingredients from small producers as well as the restaurant's incredibly fluffy, crunchy, and mouthwatering homemade sourdough and "lactic" cheese. There is nothing predictable about this low-profile, affordably priced yet gourmet restaurant, where tables sprawl along a pedestrian road surrounded by graffiti-covered Neoclassical mansions. Try the marinated seafood, wild buffalo tartare, ceviche, and pizza cooked in a wood fire oven, and don't overlook the cocktail menu.
This place is serious about its coffee. It was the first new era, award-winning coffee brand from Greece, which not only selected excellent coffee bean varieties from around the world for its roastery, but also trains baristas in all that is coffee. Modern and ergonomic, it's one of the best spots in Athens for a cup, whether begotten by a variety of skilled hand drip and cold brewing methods or pulled from top-of-the-line machines.
Set in a 1930s building with a lovely courtyard seating area and hip, designy interiors, this is one of the area's new hot spots from breakfast time (with an ample menu to boot) to cocktail hour (with bar food selections). Creative sandwiches, with succulent fillings inspired mainly by Latin American cuisine, and salads are served throughout the day. If you feel like a wander, visit the ground floor studio of one of the owners, where he presents his handmade furniture. The upstairs floor hosts yoga classes, art exhibitions, and other artsy events.
Kebab lovers rejoice! Since 1964 this family-run souvlaki restaurant serves juicy, grilled meat concoctions as portions, accompanied by pittas and fries, or wrapped in pitta with tzatziki (garlic, yogurt, and cucumber sauce) or a rich, spiced tomato sauce. Sides include classics like Greek salad, grilled peppers, fried saganaki cheese and hand-cut fried potatoes. Just two minutes' walk from Monastiraki square (and less than 10 from Syntagma), this lively place makes a great stop for indulgent and flavorsome food made with quality ingredients and served with an authentic smile.
Lobster, crayfish, all kinds of seafood, and fish at their freshest and in both classic and modern renditions are served at this elegant restaurant on the Peiraiki coastline, with pretty interiors and sumptuous sea views. Try the cuttlefish "ribs," fluffy taramosalata fish roe dip and seasonal ceviche, or the orzo pasta with mussels and clams.
A Kolonaki institution, this bistro-style traditional restaurant is slightly fancier and more costly than the normal mezedopoleio, with cloth napkins, candles on the tables, and walls decorated with writings by its famous patrons. The menu centers on delicate Greek classics (such as lamb with lemon or roast suckling pig) but also some international fare. The service is warm and professional and the clientele includes politicians and diplomats on their lunch break. For the freshest dishes, ask the waiter for the day's specials.
Unpretentious and overall unremarkable, this restaurant is justifiably famous for its freshly grilled paidakia (lamb chops), to be eaten with unabashed gusto by hand. It's always busy and always a great escape from an increasingly modernized city, but avoid the hima wine, which almost certainly leads to a headache. Enjoy your lamb with thick-cut fried potatoes that might have come from your yiayia's kitchen and perhaps some tzatziki or fava bean spread. The meat taverna's popularity led to the opening of a second branch farther down the same road and an extension across the pedestrianized Eptahalkou Street into a garden area.
A new restaurant celebrating Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors with an adventurous twist, alongside vermouth spritzes. Small plates ideal for sharing will fill your table, offering an exciting variety of tastes. Start with fresh oysters with coriander foam, kingfish sashimi in fermented soy, shrimp tortellini with Naxian arseniko cheese, and fresh flatbreads. The use of Middle Eastern spices is delicate yet profoundly flavorful. The decor marries mid-century elegance with industrial cool, inviting you to linger over creative cocktails or vermouth (their specialty) at the stylish bar.
A favorite of tourists and locals alike, Vyzantino is directly on Plaka's main square—good for a reasonably priced, well prepared, and traditional bite (like stewed meats such as beef stifado, baked lamb, and stuffed tomatoes) with a front seat to all the action.
A new-generation coffee shop that's as much about nostalgically celebrating the '70s-style granola hippie philosophy as ultramodern health consciousness and love of nature. Wild Souls has organic coffee, a sunlight-flooded space to sit at with your dog and friends, and an interesting array of plant-based bowls like chia pudding and overnight oats, with an emphasis on six types of homemade nut butters like almond and pistachio, that can also be bought by the jar. Eggs, sandwiches, and salads are also on the menu, packed with seasonal freshness and ethical vision.
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