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Doesn't anybody eat at home anymore? When you're on vacation, travelers don't have much choice in the matter, but these days—even in the throes of the current economic crisis—Athenians are going out to restaurants (many of which have lowered their prices accordingly) in record numbers. And it's easy for visitors to the capital to become a part of the clatter, chatter, and song, especially at the city's neighborhood tavernas.
These Athenian landmarks were famous for their wicker chairs that inevitably pinched your bottom, wobbly tables that needed coins under one leg, and hima wine drawn from the barrel. There are still plenty of them around, but today some of their clientele has moved up to a popular new restaurant hybrid: the "gastro-taverna," which serves traditional fare in surroundings that are more modern and creative. Most are located in the up-and-coming industrial-cum-arty districts of Central Athens, such as Gazi-Kerameikos and Metaxourgeio and attract youths who stay nibbling, sipping tsipouro (a distilled grape spirit), and laughing for hours. At the same time, enduring in popularity are the traditional magereia ("cookeries"): humble, no-frills eateries where the food, usually displayed behind glass windows, is cooked in grandma's style—it's simple, honest, time-tested, filling comfort food. Some noteworthy magereia are located around the bustling Ayias Irinis Square in the heart of Monastiraki. Of course cheap, filling, and delicious souvlaki is more popular than ever, and local favorites still have queues. Meanwhile, Athenians' evolving taste for exotic foods, combined with a tighter budget, has led to the opening of numerous ethnic street food restaurants—some just holes in the wall—serving expertly made, authentic options.
Trends? Athens has them. Health-centric restaurants specializing in vegan, vegetarian, and raw food seem to be blossoming more, as well as sophisticated juice bars. These would have stood out just a few years ago; now they have competitors. Organic food stores can be found in every neighborhood, many selling Greek-grown concoctions made in the traditional style by small producers, many of whom returned to the rural homeland after facing unemployment; look for local truffle oils, unpasteurized craft beer, and gold leaf honey. Most Greeks value pure, high-quality, and easily accessible staples like the seasonal vegetables and fruit, medicinal handpicked herb teas, and nuts that they hunt for at the weekly neighborhood laiki market, as well as the multitude of Greek product stores. With less money to spend, Athenians now order more discerningly and in smaller quantities, but they resolutely linger outside, which never seems to be a problem for restaurant owners.
But some things remain eternal. Athenian dining is seasonal. In August, when residents scatter to the hills and seaside, many restaurants and tavernas close, with the hippest bar-restaurants reopening at choice seaside positions. And visitors remain shocked by how late Greeks dine. It's normal (even on a weekday) to show up for a meal at 9 or 10 and to leave long after midnight, only to head off for drinks. Hotel restaurants, seafood places, and Plaka tavernas keep very late hours. Most places serve lunch from about noon to 4 (and sometimes as late as 6) and dinner from about 8 or 9 until at least midnight. When in Athens, don't hesitate to adopt this Zorbaesque lifestyle. Eat, drink, party, and enjoy life—knowing full well that, as a traveler, there can always be a siesta the next day.
For such a tiny spot in a narrow street just off Syntagma Square, this small but stylish vegan-vegetarian favorite has many devoted fans. The comforting food appeals to health-conscious diners who appreciate the friendly atmosphere and a menu including ethnic and macrobiotic cuisine. Options include mock burgers, pizza, heartwarming curries, and raw food desserts. Its vitamin-rich juices and smoothies helped start a juice bar trend in the capital.
In an airy Neoclassical mansion with a leafy, opulent courtyard—paved with original painted tiles, canopied by huge date palms, and illuminated by colored lanterns—Balthazar truly feels like a summer oasis in the middle of Athens. The quality and flavor is kept high on the up-to-the-minute Mediterranean menu, adding exotic touches from Asia and the Americas alongside a separate sushi card—all of which go brilliantly with a few well-mixed cocktails. The crowd is hip, moneyed, cosmopolitan, and beautiful, and in summer they enjoy The Green Room, a stylish club inside the building.
Here you'll find contemporary, flavor-packed, and elegant Greek dishes you'll want to linger over for hours. Housed in a Neoclassical building where in 1915 wine and coal was sold, and which in the 1950s turned into the classic Barbagiannis taverna, Cafe Boheme moved from its former base on Omirou Street and opened here during the quiet pandemic years and has quickly developed a loyal clientele. Using fresh, seasonal, and high-quality ingredients inspired by recipes from around Greece with a touch of artistic inspiration, the cuisine at this friendly restaurant is fresh, unpretentious yet sophisticated, and worth returning to try more of. Don't miss out on the succulent grilled sea bream with crispy skin that's served with horta (wild) greens, the goat cheese and dried fig salad, or the turkey meatballs with a cumin-tomato dip.
The perfect way to combine a chic, tasty meal with excellent wines, this place (with siblings in Psyrri on Agatharkou 15, and Acropolis on Drakou 3--5) serves up plenty of oenological expertise and inspiration along with dishes like charcuterie and cheese platters, bruschetti with toppings like goat cheese, strawberry jam and balsamic, warm cuts like smoked tenderloin, salads, and, if you're there at the right time of year, fresh oysters. The extensive wine list includes limited-edition labels and the highly educated staff are more than happy to advise you on pairings and varieties. Group and private wine tastings are also on offer, and you can shop wine and food goodies in-house.
Small metal tables line either side of a steep pedestrian road leading from across the St. George hotel right under Lycabettus down to Dexameni Square, where one can peek through the glass to see the ancient Roman aqueduct. Throughout the year the greenery-surrounded café serves coffee, refreshments, and meze dishes to a chatty, vibrant crowd of all ages and styles. On the square you'll also find Cine Dexameni, one of Athens's old open-air cinemas that operates throughout the summer, and a playground.
This famous, historic restaurant has often been featured in movies due to its astounding location, looking out onto exquisite views of the Acropolis, and it has been a favored dining spot for the world's glitterati for decades. Today's plush establishment serves confident Modern Greek dishes with classic snacks and brunch dishes available during the day, while in the evening the restaurant offers beautifully presented plates that riff on traditional Greek ingredients allied to bold contemporary techniques. A far-reaching wine card and attentive service make this a must visit for those in search of quality cooking allied to an unforgettable view.
Chef Adam Kontovas turns fusion on its head with bold pairings and fearless flavors. Falafel with soy mayo, citrus-lacquered octopus, or umami-rich eggplant tartlets say it all. The space is raw yet refined, with an upstairs glass box for the full view. This is one for the curious and creatively inclined.
Housed in a cool, airy building with modern and traditional touches, this lively example of a neo-taverna serves mama's cooking but infused with Gazi's creative energy. Regional specialties, great barrel wine served in lovely carafes, and a familial atmosphere make dining here a pleasure. Warning: when the neutral-tone interior gets busy, it gets almost psychedelically loud. Thankfully, there are outside tables on the street where you can dine in good weather.
Inspired in its decor and the names of the dishes on the menu by old Hollywood glamour, this was Athens's first farm-to-table restaurant. Having received several awards over the years for its top-quality ingredients—mainly organic and sourced from small producers—as well as its great service and many healthy comfort-food options, it's also set up in Kifissia and Mykonos. The all-day restaurant has an easygoing and upbeat urban ambience and serves creative as well as classic modern Greek, Asian, Mediterranean, and North American--inspired cuisine to suit all tastes, moods, and dietary requirements. You can head here for a full brunch, lunch, or dinner or order a great bottle of wine accompanied by several appetizers to share with friends. If you have a sweet tooth, don't miss out on the dairy and sugar-free olive oil ice cream, which comes in several indulgent flavors.
On a picturesque pedestrianized square, this is one of the oldest tavernas in Plaka (established 1932). Although not as great as it was during its glory years when intellectuals and artists sat here sipping retsina until the early hours, it's still well worth a stop. It is a district landmark—set midway between the Tower of the Winds and the Museum of Greek Popular Musical Instruments. Most of the crowds prefer to relax under the courtyard's plane trees (which give the place its name) rather than dine inside the cozy dining room, at least when the weather is pleasant. Locals come here because the food is good Greek home cooking. Don't miss the oven-baked potatoes, lamb or veal casserole with spinach or eggplant, the stuffed squid, and the cheap but delicious barrel retsina. It's also open for lunch.
Classic and modern Greek tastes with Mediterranean influences are served with gusto and finesse. Whether you're after a well-grilled, juicy steak or a hearty pasta dish, a fresh crisp salad, or fresh local fish, you're bound to enjoy the homestyle offerings at this quality place. Tables line the decorated exterior along steep Ploutarchou Street though year-round there are also seats indoors.
Founded way back in 1898, this is one of the few remaining Plaka tavernas serving reliably good food with excellent Acropolis views. It doesn't draw the same crowd of locals as in the past, and it doesn't just serve fish, as the name suggests; rather, you'll find simple tasty entrées such as rooster in wine sauce, arnaki pilino (lamb baked in clay pots), moussaka, grilled meat, and wild mushroom risotto.
As you are handed the menu, you'll find it nearly impossible to avert your eyes from the stunning view from the very top of verdant Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens; the Acropolis glitters below, and beyond it, the metropolis unfolds like a map out to the Saronic Gulf. The restaurant centers on gourmet Mediterranean cuisine with bold French elements, but the chef also cooks up playful renditions of classic Greek dishes. The restaurant is reached by cable car or by foot only.
Time to spice up your trip? Head down to Poncho, a funky little neon-lit shack on the busy Karitsi Square. Authentic handmade tortillas topped with the freshest of ingredients—you'll be craving them for days afterward. These tacos are the bomb!
Halfway up Lycabettus hill (around a 10-minute walk up the steps from Aristippou Street) you'll find this sprawling café-bar with its sumptuous panoramic views over the city. Stop here for a coffee, aperitif, and sandwich (or more if you're hungry, as there is a restaurant area, too) with one of the most fantastic vistas in Athens. After being closed for some 20 years this is now a popular hangout year-round, offering tourists and locals a like a moment of magical respite surrounded by greenery.
This is a refreshing addition to the Athenian dinner scene created by the Greek-Japanese owner-chef of (also very hip) Nolan. Diners keep returning to delight in an inventive, improvisational, and experimental menu based on the season's best-quality ingredients from small producers as well as the restaurant's incredibly fluffy, crunchy, and mouthwatering homemade sourdough and "lactic" cheese. There is nothing predictable about this low-profile, affordably priced yet gourmet restaurant, where tables sprawl along a pedestrian road surrounded by graffiti-covered Neoclassical mansions. Try the marinated seafood, wild buffalo tartare, ceviche, and pizza cooked in a wood fire oven, and don't overlook the cocktail menu.
Set in a 1930s building with a lovely courtyard seating area and hip, designy interiors, this is one of the area's new hot spots from breakfast time (with an ample menu to boot) to cocktail hour (with bar food selections). Creative sandwiches, with succulent fillings inspired mainly by Latin American cuisine, and salads are served throughout the day. If you feel like a wander, visit the ground floor studio of one of the owners, where he presents his handmade furniture. The upstairs floor hosts yoga classes, art exhibitions, and other artsy events.
Kebab lovers rejoice! Since 1964 this family-run souvlaki restaurant serves juicy, grilled meat concoctions as portions, accompanied by pittas and fries, or wrapped in pitta with tzatziki (garlic, yogurt, and cucumber sauce) or a rich, spiced tomato sauce. Sides include classics like Greek salad, grilled peppers, fried saganaki cheese and hand-cut fried potatoes. Just two minutes' walk from Monastiraki square (and less than 10 from Syntagma), this lively place makes a great stop for indulgent and flavorsome food made with quality ingredients and served with an authentic smile.
Lobster, crayfish, all kinds of seafood, and fish at their freshest and in both classic and modern renditions are served at this elegant restaurant on the Peiraiki coastline, with pretty interiors and sumptuous sea views. Try the cuttlefish "ribs," fluffy taramosalata fish roe dip and seasonal ceviche, or the orzo pasta with mussels and clams.
A Kolonaki institution, this bistro-style traditional restaurant is slightly fancier and more costly than the normal mezedopoleio, with cloth napkins, candles on the tables, and walls decorated with writings by its famous patrons. The menu centers on delicate Greek classics (such as lamb with lemon or roast suckling pig) but also some international fare. The service is warm and professional and the clientele includes politicians and diplomats on their lunch break. For the freshest dishes, ask the waiter for the day's specials.
Unpretentious and overall unremarkable, this restaurant is justifiably famous for its freshly grilled paidakia (lamb chops), to be eaten with unabashed gusto by hand. It's always busy and always a great escape from an increasingly modernized city, but avoid the hima wine, which almost certainly leads to a headache. Enjoy your lamb with thick-cut fried potatoes that might have come from your yiayia's kitchen and perhaps some tzatziki or fava bean spread. The meat taverna's popularity led to the opening of a second branch farther down the same road and an extension across the pedestrianized Eptahalkou Street into a garden area.
A new restaurant celebrating Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors with an adventurous twist, alongside vermouth spritzes. Small plates ideal for sharing will fill your table, offering an exciting variety of tastes. Start with fresh oysters with coriander foam, kingfish sashimi in fermented soy, shrimp tortellini with Naxian arseniko cheese, and fresh flatbreads. The use of Middle Eastern spices is delicate yet profoundly flavorful. The decor marries mid-century elegance with industrial cool, inviting you to linger over creative cocktails or vermouth (their specialty) at the stylish bar.
A favorite of tourists and locals alike, Vyzantino is directly on Plaka's main square—good for a reasonably priced, well prepared, and traditional bite (like stewed meats such as beef stifado, baked lamb, and stuffed tomatoes) with a front seat to all the action.
