Les Écoles Cinéma Club
Formerly Le Desperado, then Les Écoles 21, the refurbished Les Écoles Cinéma Club continues the tradition of presenting version originale American classics and cult films for €10 on two screens.
The performing arts scene in Paris runs the gamut from highbrow to lowbrow, cheap (or even free) to break-the-bank expensive. Venues are indoors and outdoors, opulent or spartan, and dress codes vary accordingly. Regardless of the performance you choose, it's probably unlike anything you've seen before. Parisians have an audacious sense of artistic adventure and a stunning eye for scene and staging. An added bonus in this city of classic beauty is that many of the venues themselves—from the opulent interiors of the Opéra Garnier and the Opéra Royal de Versailles to the Art Deco splendor of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées—are a feast for the eyes.
One thing that sets Paris apart in the arts world is the active participation of the Ministry of Culture, which sponsors numerous concert halls and theaters, like the Comédie Française, that tend to present less commercial, though artistically captivating, productions. Other venues with broader appeal are known for sold-out shows and decade-long runs.
Most performances are in French, although you can find English theater productions. English-language movies are often presented undubbed, with subtitles. Of course, you don't need to speak the language to enjoy opera, classical music, dance, or the circus.
Formerly Le Desperado, then Les Écoles 21, the refurbished Les Écoles Cinéma Club continues the tradition of presenting version originale American classics and cult films for €10 on two screens.
Formerly the Cirque National Alexis Gruss, Les Folies Gruss remains true to the Cirque à l'Ancienne philosophy, featuring a traditional circus with showy horseback riders, trapeze artists, and clowns. The large-scale production runs mid-October through early March, with performances twice daily at 3 pm and 9 pm. Tickets cost €20 to €80.
The Chopin Festival and the Solistes Festival strike musical high notes in the Orangerie du Parc de Bagatelle, one of Paris's most beautiful gardens. The former runs from mid-June through mid-July; the latter is held on three consecutive weekends in September. Tickets will set you back €21 to €35.
For free outdoor classical concerts, the Classique au Vert Festival is staged weekends at 4 pm from August to mid-September, drawing fans to the Parc Floral in Bois de Vincennes (entrance to the park is €2.50). This is also the spot that hosts the Paris Jazz Festival each weekend in June and July.
This rock festival, which runs each August on the outskirts of Paris, is one of the largest of its kind in France; past headliners include the Cure, Lana Del Rey, Arcade Fire, Cypress Hill, and the Foo Fighters. A three-day pass is €159.
One of a number of popular cinemas near the Sorbonne, St-André des Arts is also one of the best cinemas in Paris. It hosts an annual festival devoted to a single director (like Bergman or Tarkovsky) and shows indie films every day at 1 pm. Some of the latter are part of "Les Découvertes de Saint-André" series, which focuses on the work of young filmmakers; these screenings are followed by a discussion (check the website for details). Tickets cost €10.50 (€6.50 for the "Les Découvertes" matinee series).
The 1,020-seat Salle Gaveau is a perfectly appointed gold-and-white hall with remarkable acoustics and a distinctly Parisian allure. It hosts chamber music, orchestral, piano, and vocal recitals.
Once one of Paris's major classical music venues, these days Salle Pleyel's packed calendar focuses mostly on contemporary music, entertainment, and other events. The venue also hosts the annual César Awards, France's answer to the Oscars.
An example of the innovative activity in the Bastille area, Théâtre de la Bastille has an enviable record as a launchpad for tomorrow's modern-dance stars.
In the heart of the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, this complex includes three theaters, an international student residence community, a casual daytime restaurant, and a park. Conceived in the 1930s with a visionary concept of pacifism and international peace, the Cité U campus is home to thousands of students and researchers from around the world. The theaters host young, avant-garde dance, music, theater, and circus performances, as well as debates, meetings, and workshops. Forty percent of the productions are by foreign artists.
This tiny Rive Gauche venue has been staging the titanic Romanian-French writer Ionesco's The Bald Soprano and The Lesson since 1957: before the COVID-19 pandemic, it held the world record for a nonstop theater run with 19,000 performances viewed by more than 2.5 million people. The two classics play Tuesday through Saturday, and you can see both shows on the same day for €43; Wednesday shows have English subtitles. Other productions are also mounted, and single tickets cost €29.
Belle Époque superstar Sarah Bernhardt, who directed and performed at this beautiful theater from 1893 to 1899, put the Théâtre de la Renaissance on the map. Big French stars often perform here. Note that the theater is on the second floor, and there's no elevator.
A top spot for contemporary dance, you'll find French and international troupes choreographed by the world's best—like William Forsythe and Anne-Teresa de Keersmaeker's Rosas company. Concerts and theatrical performances are also part of the season. Book early; shows sell out quickly.
Part of the Théâtre de la Ville, Théâtre des Abbesses is a 400-seat venue in Montmartre. It features lesser-known theater acts, musicians, and up-and-coming choreographers, who often make it onto the program in the Théâtre de la Ville the following year.
Welcome to this wonderfully atmospheric historic theater founded in 1878 and given new life in the 1970s by the late theatrical genius Peter Brook. Under the wing of his brilliant successors, the program regularly delights, with an ever-changing roster of concerts, operas, and play that range from the classical to the avant-garde.
This was the scene of 1913's infamous Battle of the Rite of Spring, when police had to be called in after the audience ripped up seats in outrage at Stravinsky's Le Sacre du Printemps score and Nijinsky's choreography. Today Théâtre des Champs-Élysées is elegantly restored and worthy of a visit if only for the architecture. (It's one of Paris's most striking examples of Art Deco.) The theater also hosts first-rate opera and dance performances, along with orchestral, chamber, and Sunday morning concerts.
Located in the former residence of Cardinal Richelieu, this plush, 716-seat, Italian-style theater is bedecked in gold and purple. It specializes in lighter fare, like comedies and theatrical productions aimed at the under-12 set. Just note that the theater is not handicap accessible.
Housed in an imposing neoclassical building overlooking the Eiffel Tower, Théâtre National de Chaillot has a trio of venues and a total of 1,600 seats. It's dedicated to experimental, world, and avant-garde drama, dance, and music, or a mix of all three. Major names in dance—like the Ballet Royal de Suède (Royal Swedish Ballet) and William Forsythe's company—visit regularly. There are plays in English and programs for children, too.
This mammoth 18-screen complex is in the Bercy Village shopping area. For sound and seating, it's one of the best.
FNAC sells tickets online and in its 10 city stores, including one on the Champs-Élysées.
Half-price tickets for same-day theater performances are available at Le Kiosque Théâtre's Madeleine location. See the website for information on outlets in Place Raoul Dautry (Montparnasse) and Place des Ternes (Les Grands Boulevards).
This popular dance venue just outside Paris often attracts top-notch international and French companies, such as Blanca Li and Bill T. Jones; it also hosts the cutting-edge EXIT Festival, which runs over 10 days from the end of March.
This mammoth ultramodern facility, designed by architect Carlos Ott and inaugurated in 1989, long ago took over the role of Paris's main opera house from the Opéra Garnier (although both operate under the same Opéra de Paris umbrella). Like the building, performances tend to be on the avant-garde side—you're as likely to see a contemporary adaptation of La Bohème as you are to hear Kafka set to music. Tickets for Opéra de Paris productions run €15–€230 and generally go on sale at the box office a month before shows, earlier by phone and online. Once the doors open, "standing places" can be purchased for €5 from vending machines in the lobby, but you'll need coins or a credit card (no bills) and patience to snag one, as the lines are long. The opera season usually runs September through July; the box office is open Monday through Saturday 11:30–6:30 and one hour before curtain call. If you just want to look around inside, you can also buy tickets for a 90-minute guided tour (€15).
In July and August, Parc de La Villette shows free open-air movies. Most people pack a picnic; you can also rent deck chairs and blankets for €7 by the entrance.