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Perched above central Paris, Montmartre is buzzing with a hip vibe. Idyllic as the portrayal of Montmartre might seem in Jean-Pierre Jeunet's film Amélie, it's surprisingly close to reality. Though decidedly out of the way, Montmartre is still one of the most desirable areas in Paris, seamlessly blending the trendy and the tradi
Perched above central Paris, Montmartre is buzzing with a hip vibe. Idyllic as the portrayal of Montmartre might seem in Jean-Pierre Jeunet's film Amélie, it's surprisingly close to reality. Though decidedly out of the way, Montmartre is still one of the most desirable
Perched above central Paris, Montmartre is buzzing with a hip vibe. Idyllic as the portrayal of Montmartre might seem in
Perched above central Paris, Montmartre is buzzing with a hip vibe. Idyllic as the portrayal of Montmartre might seem in Jean-Pierre Jeunet's film Amélie, it's surprisingly close to reality. Though decidedly out of the way, Montmartre is still one of the most desirable areas in Paris, seamlessly blending the trendy and the traditional. The less picturesque neighborhood around Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est is making its mark on the culinary scene: besides classic brasseries, tucked-away bistros, and the city's most authentic Indian restaurants, you'll find a new generation of cafés and gastrobistros exploding onto the scene.
Once a well-guarded foodie secret, a Michelin star brought this singular restaurant, tucked behind the Sacré-Coeur, richly deserved acclaim. Now the dining room is packed with diners enjoying impeccable contemporary French cuisine that's gorgeously presented and full of flavor. With no à la carte ordering, you are truly in the hands of chef Laurent Magnin, whose menus include the seven-course "temptation" menu (€135) and the eleven-course tasting menu (€180). Expect delights like lacquered suckling pig or roasted mullet in a sublimely creamy mushroom duxelle. It's the perfect end, or midday pause, to a day spent wandering the village-y streets of Montmartre. There is also a five-course "menu dejeuner" for lunch that costs €65.
52 rue Lamarck, Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
Set in a bright, modern space on a tiny street in the lower reaches of Montmartre, the popular Le BAL Café Otto caters to a diverse clientele who come for the great coffee, delicious homey food, lively crowd, and the art gallery/bookstore. Italian- and French-inspired cuisine (like spelt risotto with mushrooms, hazelnuts, and creamed spinach) during the week rests alongside a traditional weekend brunch menu featuring items like tender pancakes, fried eggs with ham and roasted tomatoes, and buttery scones with jam. On Sunday in spring and summer, brunch is truly an event, with artists, hipsters, expats, and young families enthusiastically enjoying all of the above. Note that the café closes at 10 pm on Wednesday and Thursday and 7 pm on Friday and Sunday, so perhaps look elsewhere for dinner.
6 impasse de la Défense, Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
Run by three friendly young women, the snug, breakfast-and-lunch-only Soul Kitchen unites a pleasantly homey decor and welcoming atmosphere with the kind of Anglo-French all-organic comfort food that soothes body and soul. Choose from Gruyère mac and cheese, chèvre and leek tarts, soul-warming soups, and a pastry counter laden with treats like homemade scones, cheesecake, tiramisu, and rich mousse au chocolat. The ladies also know their beverages: good, well-priced wines by the glass, fresh fruit and vegetable juices, and some serious coffee.
33 rue Lamarck, Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
A trailblazer on the Paris gastro-coffee scene, out-of-the-way Café Lomi first supplied expertly roasted single-origin coffees to the first wave of barista cafés and top restaurants. Now Lomi's industrial-chic loft is equal parts roaster, café, workshop, and pilgrimage stop for hard-core coffee lovers, serving a range of splendid brews along with a menu of warm and cold dishes and a hearty brunch on weekends.
3 ter rue Marcadet, Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
Though everyone talks about the "new Montmartre," exemplified by a wave of chic residents and throbbingly cool cafés and bars, the old Montmartre is alive and well at the untrendy-and-proud-of-it Mascotte. This old-fashioned café-brasserie—which dates from 1889, the same year that saw the opening of the Tour Eiffel and the Moulin Rouge—is a local favorite. Loyalists come for the seafood platters, the excellent steak tartare, the warming potée auvergnate (pork stew) in winter, and the gossip around the comptoir (bar).
52 rue des Abbesses, Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
This photo op–ready corner café draws a quirky mix of hipsters, artists, and discriminating tourists. The food is good and includes classics like steak tartare. For a weekday lunch, try the two-course menu du jour (€19). If you're craving a taste of home, the excellent cheeseburger comes with a heap of crispy fries.
7 rue des Trois Frères, Paris, Île-de-France, 75018, France
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