28 Best Restaurants in Lyon, Lyon and the Alps
We've compiled the best of the best in Lyon - browse our top choices for the top things to see or do during your stay.
Bergamote
Foodies flock to this up-and-coming neighborhood for a taste of chef Maxime Pujol’s gastro-bistro cuisine that reflects the seasons and deep Lyon roots. Ambitious, imaginative dishes include line-caught yellowtail tartare with black olive ice cream and crunchy spring peas; slow-cooked veal, green asparagus from the Drôme with crispy onions and tender carrot tops in a lemongrass reduction; and for dessert, caramel and sweetgrass Bavarian cream over a vanilla madeleine with vanilla gelée and almond crunch.
Comptoir Abel
About 400 years old, this charming house is one of Lyon's most frequently filmed and photographed taverns. Simple wooden tables in wood-panel dining rooms, quirky art on every wall, heavy-bottom pot lyonnais wine bottles—every detail is obviously pampered and lovingly produced. The salade lyonnaise (green salad with homemade croutons and sautéed bacon, topped with a poached egg) or the rognons sauce madère (kidneys in a Madeira sauce) are standouts.
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L'Âme Soeur
Just behind the Palais de Justice, this little néo-bistrot (think comfortable vibe but contemporary design) has a €33 prix-fixe formule that is nothing short of superb in terms of both value and quality. Artisanal terrine of free-range duck, rillettes de maquereau en salade de chou chinois (mackerel fillets in Chinese cabbage salad), and fillet of rockfish with peppers are just some of the interesting morsels at this innovative, affordable address.
L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges
The late great Paul Bocuse—who kick-started nouvelle cuisine back in the 1970s and became a superstar in the process—may no longer be with us, but dishes like the legendary black-truffle soup in pastry crust he created in 1975 to honor President Giscard d'Estaing always will be. So will the frogs' leg soup with watercress; the green bean and artichoke salad with foie gras; and the "tripled" wood pigeon, consisting of a drumstick in puff pastry, a breast roasted and glazed in cognac, and a dark aromatic pâté of the innards. For a mere €370 per person, the Paul Bocuse Centennial Menu includes two of the master's most famous dishes: soup aux truffes and the volaille de Bresse truffée en vessie "Mère Fillioux" (Bresse hen cooked in a pig bladder with truffles), which comes to the table looking something like a basketball. Like the desserts, the grand dining room is done in traditional style.
L'Étage
Hidden over Place des Terreaux, this semisecret upstairs dining room in a former silk-weaving loft prepares some of Lyon's finest and most daring cuisine. A place at the window (admittedly hard to come by), overlooking the facade of the Beaux Arts academy across the square, is a moment to remember—especially during December's Festival of Lights. The six-course €67 tasting menu at dinner is a steal for this quality of dining.
La Boite à Café
Watch the world go by on the street-side terrace at this small but lively café on a picturesque square at the foot of the hill leading to Croix Rousse. Low-key and casual, the focus here is squarely on the java—every kind of caffeinated beverage can be conjured up here, and coffee aficionados are reassured by the fact that the meticulously sourced beans are roasted on the premises. Freshly baked carrot cake or cheesecake, tarte au citron, and warm chocolate fondant are irresistibly decadent alongside a luscious café crème. There's also a great choice of magazines and newspapers and free Wi-Fi access.
La Mère Brazier
This is a legendary location in Lyon—even more so now that Mathieu Viannay, one of the top names in the city's contemporary cuisine scene, has honored gastronomy pioneer Eugénie Brazier—the founder of nouvelle cuisine and the first woman to gain three Michelin stars, in 1933—by opening a restaurant in her former space. Winner of the coveted Best Craftsman in France designation and having earned a second Michelin star in 2023, Viannay continues to experiment with taste, textures, and ingredients in this carefully restored and recently remodeled traditional house. He describes the menu as "mixed" between completely modern cuisine and "Mère Brazier recipes revisited," such as the poularde de Bresse demi-deuil (Bresse poultry in "half mourning," that is, with black truffles under the breast skin).
Le Garet
From quenelles to the house favorite, andouillettes, this is the perfect primer in bouchon fare. Salade lyonnaise (frisée lettuce, pork lardons, croutons, and a poached egg, with a Dijon vinaigrette) is an institution at this famous dining room near the Hôtel de Ville. The roast veal chop and ratatouille provide a welcome break from the standard porcine bouchon lineup. The cozy and joyful atmosphere is, perhaps even more than the food itself, what makes Lyon's version of the French bistro so irresistible.
Le Kitchen Café
Though delicious coffee, croissants, and pastries are on the all-day menu, Swedish chef Connie Zagora and her pastry chef husband, Laurent Ozan, dish up one of the more exciting gastronomic lunches in town in this luminous little café. A new concept that's catching hold in Paris and Lyon alike, the restaurant is open from 8 am to 6:30 pm, serving an all-day menu of sweet or savory breakfast foods (think broiled eggs with soy sauce, trout gravlax with dill cream, homemade granola, and fromage frais) and a range of homemade pastries. But the real star is the three-course (€31) weekday lunch menu, offering such gourmet delights as velvety green parsley and leek vichyssoise, followed by marinated cod or steak with parsnip cream black sesame and shiitake mushrooms. All ingredients are locally sourced and the chef is vegetarian friendly.
Le Neuvième Art
Christophe Roure, who earned his chops with the likes of Bocuse and Gagnaire, now has two Michelin stars at this smashing restaurant. Considered one of Lyon's top tables, Roure's artistry extends to even the smallest details in dishes of exquisite refinement: Breton langoustine poached in saffron bouillon with tender violet artichokes; shellfish and shiitake ragout served with lemongrass-ginger hollandaise; pigeon and citrus-infused beets with a sauce of blackberry and bitter-orange marmalade. Stunning to behold, the desserts are a highlight from a master chef who counts pastry making among his many accomplishments.
Ô Vins d'Anges
He's an indefatigable champion of small-producer wines, and you'd have to be a stone not to be swept up in Sébastien Milleret's passion. A congenial atmosphere prevails at this wineshop and bar, and excellent small dishes—luscious burrata cheese served with fruity olive oil and capers, freshly shaved bresaola and lardo, or briny smoked eel—are complemented by reasonably priced wines by the glass. On Saturday afternoon, wine barrels are rolled out for tastings that draw a neighborhood crowd.
Prairial
Culinary innovation runs deep in this food-centric city, and the impressively pedigreed Gaëtan Gentil is among a generation of chefs shaking things up with fruit-and-vegetable-centered cuisine that's as subtle, and sustainable, as it is surprising. Unexpected flavor combinations (grapefruit and marigold; chicken and lemon verbena) are refreshingly original and presented with an almost pictorial beauty. With a shiny Michelin star, a stellar reputation, and a sumptuous dining room, reservations are a must.
Sauf Imprévu
Félix Gagnaire, a trained pastry chef, chose a quiet neighborhood near the river for his relaxed bistro, where the menu changes daily, always mixing a solid repertoire of market-fresh, Lyonnais comfort foods with the roving imagination of an innovator. You might sample the vélouté perfumed with nutmeg and served with a poached egg and crunchy bits of smoked sausage; a filet of sea bass baked in its skin with vegetable risotto; or a tarte à l’orange with cardamom ice cream for dessert. For a livelier, more casual experience, Gagnaire’s Sauf Imprévu Bar à Vins, around the corner at 15 Rue Vauban, serves trendier cuisine with excellent wines by the glass and outdoor seating.
Takao Takano
After barely a year on his own, Takao Takano's eponymous restaurant earned off-the-charts accolades and a coveted Michelin star (now two) for his imaginative cuisine. Takano honed his craft during eight years as sous chef to Nicholas Le Bec (now in Shanghai), but he brings his own aesthetic to the fore in a warm, pared-down space outside the city center. Beautifully presented dishes, like tender Limousin lamb with artichokes and spicy olive oil; cucumber tarts with horseradish-inflected tarama and oyster-and-watercress gelée; roasted veal with bok choy, girolles mushrooms, and finely shaved lardo di Colonnata change according to the season.
Au 14 Février
Cupid's arrows don't quite account for the rapturous reviews (and one Michelin star) garnered by Tsuyoshi Arai in his tiny chocolate box of a restaurant. The persnickety Lyonnais have fallen hard, waiting weeks to savor dishes that combine Japanese subtlety with rigorous French technique—like poached foie gras and creamy parsnip puree with caramelized carrot sauce, scallops rolled in sole and smoky bacon, verbena-infused lobster consommé with caviar, and salmon tartare in a gingery court bouillon with zucchini mousse. The cozy atmosphere only adds to its allure.
Brasserie Georges
This inexpensive brasserie at the south end of Rue de la Charité is one of the city's largest and oldest, founded in 1836 and housed in a palatial building dating from 1925. Meals range from hearty veal stew or sauerkraut and sausage to more refined fare. Cooking is less than creative—stick with the great standards, such as saucisson brioché (sausage in brioche stuffed with truffled foie gras)—and, like the vast room setting, service is a bit impersonal and can be very slow. Nevertheless, the Art Deco style is as delicious as it comes.
Café des Fédérations
For 80 years this sawdust-strewn café with homey red-check tablecloths has reigned as one of the city's leading bouchons, and although its glory days are long past, it's still a good bet for an authentic experience. For a taste of classic Lyon gastronomy in a historic setting, the deftly prepared local classics like boudin noir, boudin blanc (white-meat sausage), or andouillettes (veal and pork tripe sausage) are hard to beat.
Café du Jura
The gâteau de foies de volaille aux raviolis (chicken-liver ravioli) is a masterpiece at this eatery founded in 1864. Game and steak dishes are robust, as is the cassolette d'escargots (stew of beans, mutton, and snails). For dessert, stick with the terrific cheese selection. The rows of tables, the mosaic-tile floor, and the absence of anything too decorative gives this place the feel of a men's club.
A Chacun Sa Tasse
With a name that translates to "to each one his glass," this charming corner café is where tea lovers don't have to settle for the usual humdrum selection of teabags in the midst of a coffee bonanza. Here both tea and coffee are meticulously sourced and served with utmost care so everyone is happy. Whatever you do, don't skimp on the desserts, as they're as good as the beverages.
Chez Hugon
One of the city's best-known insider spots, this typical bouchon with the de rigueur red-check tablecloths sits behind the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Practically a club, it's crowded with regulars who trade quips with the owner while the kitchen prepares the best tablier de sapeur (tripe marinated in wine and fried in bread crumbs) in town. Whether you order the hunks of homemade pâté, the stewed chicken in wine vinegar sauce, or the plate of ris de veau (sweetbreads), your dinner will add up to good, inexpensive food and plenty of it.
Christian Têtedoie
Star chef Christian Têtedoie's rocked the culinary world when, after 20 years, he shuttered his Michelin-starred gastronomic temple to open this soaring art-filled aerie perched atop Lyon's Fourvière hill. The minimalist design and immense bay windows offering staggering views of the city signaled a new direction in the great chef's approach, breaking free of classicism in favor of a more audacious menu: roasted foie gras with bitter orange, pineapple, and onion in a duck reduction; roast pigeon stuffed with garlic, cabbage, and chestnuts; or the chef's signature pressed tête de veau (calf's head) served with a half lobster en cocotte (casserole). Le Phosphore wine bar downstairs offers lighter wine-focused "degustation" menus orchestrated by Têtedoie and a guest winemaker with a quality-price ratio that's hard to beat anywhere in town.
Daniel & Denise Saint-Jean
Among other honors, chef Joseph Viola has distinguished himself by creating a world-champion pâté en croûte (foie gras in a pastry crust)—nothing to sneeze at, especially if you're at the helm of one of Lyon's better bouchons. Here you'll find a charming atmosphere, complete with checked tablecloths, lace curtains, and some of the city's most satisfying local specialties, including the quenelles de brochet (a tender, sausage-shape dumpling made from river pike). Cervelle de veau (calf brains) is another standout, and the faint of heart can't go wrong with the excellent boudin noir. Note: there are three Daniel & Denise outposts, but this one, in the Vieille Ville, is slightly more upscale.
La Famille
As the name would suggest, family photographs adorn the walls of this low-key bistro high on the Croix Rousse hillside. The simple cuisine tends toward traditional recipes and authentic Lyon fare made with organic and local ingredients. From the poulet fermier (free-range chicken) to the grilled trout, the daily chalkboard announces the market specialties that chef Gilles Mozziconacci has managed to cobble together on his early-morning market tour through Les Halles de Lyon. In summer, opt for a table on the terrace.
Leptine
Steven Thiebaut Pellegrino, veteran of some of Lyon’s most innovative kitchens, strikes out on his own at this small but mighty dining room where his stunning, Asian-influenced pairings always feel inspired. Dishes might include smoked haddock and cèpes with whipped butter and pumpkin seeds; Puy lentils with house-made ponzu, spinach, and saké; or sea bass with litchi and daikon radish. Wine, saké, and non-alcoholic pairings are just as imaginative.
Les Lyonnais
Decorated with photographs of local celebrities, this popular bistro is particularly animated. Simple food—chicken simmered for hours in wine, meaty stews, and grilled fish—is served on bare wood tables. A blackboard announces plats du jour, which are usually less expensive than items on the printed menu. Try the caille aux petits legumes (quail with baby vegetables) for a change from heavier bouchon fare like the bugnes (beignets of fried pork fat).
M Restaurant
Accomplished chef Julien Gautier struts his considerable stuff at this stylish upper-Brotteaux-district bistro east of the Rhône. Expect an inventive, market-driven cuisine, characterized by dishes like slow-cooked lamb with grilled eggplant, buffalo mozzarella, and pine nuts; jumbo shrimp in a broth of garlic and tarragon; or succulent Basque chicken with grilled chorizo and roasted red peppers to savor along with a fine selection of good-value wines by the bottle or glass. Consistently fabulous food, gentle prices, and a sleek contemporary design have made this bistro an exceedingly popular choice among fashionable foodies.
Mokxa
This is where serious coffee drinkers go for a reliably excellent brew, meticulously sourced and roasted at their torrefactory in Lyon and brewed just how you like it, whether that's filtered, siphoned, or cold brewed. There's also a range of artisanal hot chocolates, chais, iced coffees in summer, and tasty snacks. If you doubt their seriousness, the café also hosts coffee-brewing classes. There's also a branch in the Croix Rousse, at 5 Rue Victor Fort (4e).