3 Best Sights in Pag Island, Northern Dalmatia

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Lest you think the modern vacation homes lining the bay are all there is to Pag Town, park your car (or get off the bus) for a walk into the historic center, the narrow streets of which provide not only a rich sense of centuries past but also a refuge of shade on a hot summer day. Pag Town was founded in 1443, when Juraj Dalmatinac of Šibenik, best known for designing Šibenik's magnificent cathedral, was commissioned by the Venetians to build a fortified island capital to replace its predecessor, which was ravaged by invaders in 1395. Today a few odd stretches remain of the 23-foot-high wall Dalmatinac built around the town, and a walk around the center reveals several Renaissance buildings and palaces from his era, as well as Baroque balconies and stone coats of arms from the 15th to 18th centuries. Pag Town's compact main square, Trg Kralja Petra Krešimira IV, is home to three of the town's key landmarks, two of them original buildings designed in the mid-14th century by Juraj Dalmatinac. The bay stretches far, with sandy, shallow beaches aplenty—making Pag Island a great place to sunbathe and swim for a day or two, especially with children. The best and biggest beaches, amid pretty groves of pine and Dalmatian oak, are in Novalja.

Crkva Sveta Marija

This three-nave basilica's simple front is decorated with a Gothic portal, an appropriately lacelike Renaissance rosette, and unfinished figures of saints. A relief over the entrance depicts the Virgin Mary protecting the townsfolk of Pag. Begun in 1466 under Dalmatinac's direction, it was completed only decades after his death. Inside, note the elaborate 18th-century Baroque altars and the wood beams visible on the original stone walls. The church is open daily from 9 until noon and from 5 until 7 in the evening.

Jurja Dalmatinca 6, Pag, Croatia

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Knežev Dvor

Across the square is the imposing Knežev dvor, with its magnificent richly detailed portal, a grand 15th-century edifice built to house the duke. Until the early 1990s, it housed a grocery store and a café; now it is a cultural and exhibition venue, hosting concerts, plays, and manifestations during the summer months. The upper floors have been converted into the City Hall.

Pag, Croatia

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Stari Grad

A mere 20-minute walk south of the present town center lies the ruins of the previous 9th-century town. You can wander around for free, taking in the Romanesque-style Crkva sveta Marija (St. Mary's Church), first mentioned in historical records in 1192; the ruins of a Franciscan monastery; and a legendary centuries-old well whose filling up with water after a drought was credited to the intervention of the Holy Virgin. On August 15, a procession of locals carries a statue of the Virgin Mary from here to the church on present-day Pag's main square. On September 8, they return. To get to Stari Grad, walk across the bridge and keep left on Put Starog Grada, the road that runs south along the bay.

Pag, Croatia

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