Fodor's Expert Review Coconut Grove

Coconut palms grow through the roof of this open-air thatched restaurant, flickering candlelight illuminates colorful local murals, waves lap the white sand, and the waitstaff provides just the right level of service. Jean-François Bellanger's dishes artfully fuse French culinary preparations with island ingredients. Top choices include pan-seared mahimahi served over cauliflower puree with fingerling potatoes and mango-pineapple chutney, and sautéed shrimp with roasted plantain and hickory bacon finished with champagne-Parmesan sauce. The signature coconut shrimp is the best lunch option. The kitchen can be uneven, the wine list is unimaginative and overpriced, and the buzzing happy-hour bar crowd lingering well into dinnertime can detract from the otherwise romantic atmosphere. Nonetheless, Coconut Grove straddles the line between casual beachfront boîte and elegant eatery with aplomb.