Kurokawa Onsen
In northern Kyushu, Beppu is the busiest (and arguably the most overdeveloped) onsen town. Yufuin has a mixture of onsen, local crafts, and cafés but is still a tourist hub. Kurokawa Onsen is much quieter and focused almost solely on getting into hot water.
The key "sights" are the numerous ryokan in Kurokawa Onsen, and each has its own hot-spring bath(s) that is free for its own guests. However, most of Kurokawa's ryokan also allow nonguests to use their onsen for a small charge. At times, an onsen pass is available that lets you bathe at a selection of onsen for one price.
For most visitors, Kurokawa Onsen is about relaxation. Have a soak, a nice long meal, a few beers, then head to bed. Most onsen are divided into male and female baths. Usually, you can't enter onsen if you have any tattoos. Follow proper etiquette and remember to wash thoroughly in the showers before you enter the onsen pool.
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