5 Best Restaurants in Sanur, Indonesia

At the water's edge, the Beach Café aims for the cutting edge of contemporary cooking. The meats are imported and the pork ribs win plaudits, but seafood is the true star. Tuna tartare with wasabi mayonnaise, devil's calamari with chili and basil, and tropical crème brûlée blended with coconut exemplify the kitchen's knack for producing flavors that are subtle but never dull. Watch your meal take shape in the open kitchen, if you can turn away from the boats bobbing along the crescent coastline. The Beach Café is about savoring the scene, supported by service that leans toward leisurely.

Masakan Padang is Indonesia's fast food, and Dewata Minang ranks among Bali's leading purveyors. To order you point to plates of precooked grub stacked in the front window, and it's served 24 hour a day with hot rice. The specialty here is rendang, a thick brown sauce for chicken or beef that also shines over daun ubi (cassava leaves). Vegetarians beware: apparently meatless dishes like sayur nanka (stewed jackfruit) often contain animal stock. Condiments include tasty acar (pickled cucumber and carrot). Eat your meal here or take it away in a banana leaf. Either way, spending Rp20,000 a meal is virtually impossible.

With an Indonesian name but sporting an American accent, Kalimantan has a menu that spans the globe. The kitchen cooks Indonesian and Western standards, Mexican dishes spiked with jalapenos from its own garden, and jaffles (grilled sandwiches), a legacy of Indonesia's Dutch colonial heritage. Favorites include owner Haji Saidah's recipe for squid in spicy tomato sauce, as well as her cheesecake with homegrown strawberries. Watch the news over breakfast—Indonesian, Western or Mexican—or stop in for a cold beer in the afternoon. By the time the check comes, you'll feel like a regular.

Gourmet meals don't come cheaper than at Kayu Manis. The dishes are beautifully presented, and some succeed spectacularly, notably the spinach and gorgonzola risotto. Sliced duck breast arrives rare and succulent, allowing its rich flavor to blossom. Several other dishes could better use the balsamic vinegar sauce accompanying the duck, or a touch of kayu manis (cinnamon). The wine list is limited, but reasonably priced. The bright, minimalist décor is a nice backdrop for your meal. Request a table inside—overlooking the rock garden or in the air-conditioned rear section—removed from the street noise and kitchen chatter.

Sanur is Bali's top spot for seaside relaxation, and Sanur Beach Market makes a comfortable beachhead, especially if you're staying somewhere inland. The restaurant has table seating in the sand, where you can enjoy a beverage or share a respectable pizza before or after a dip in the gentle, reef-sheltered surf. The lengthy menu mixes Western and Indonesian fare, including rarely found Balinese favorite ikan bakar sambal mentah (grilled fish with raw spices). The restaurant provides transportation for diners staying in Sanur, and its bar along the village's 5-km (3-mile) beachwalk provides a respite for parched strollers. Proceeds support Sanur Village Foundation community programs.