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Wan Chai is the pungent night flower of the nocturnal scene, where the way of life served as inspiration for the novel The World of Suzie Wong. It now shares the streets with hip wine bars, salsa sessions, and after parties that continue past sunrise. The seedy "hostess bars" in this neighborhood are easy to spot, with curtained entrances guarded by old ladies on stools and suggestive names in neon. But some things never change: the busiest nights are still when there's a navy ship in the harbor on an R&R stopover.
This is Hong Kong's only old-school Scottish pub, decked out in timber and red-tartan furnishings. The bar serves an impressive collection of 180 single malts and 28 artisanal beers, alongside a roster of guest ales that changes regularly. In the basement of the nondescript Wharney Guang Dong Hotel, there's a dartboard, pool table, and live sports on the video screens. There's also a full menu that includes delicacies like haggis balls.
Loud, energetic cover bands get the dance floor jumping on Wednesday to Saturday nights. Popular with expats, it can get crowded, but patrons are usually having too much fun to care.
Considered a Hong Kong landmark—at least, on the nightlife circuit—Joe Bananas is known for its live bands and handsome interiors. It tends to draw an after-hours crowd, since the doors stay open until 5:30 am almost every day of the week. During the day, this is also a popular spot to watch sports games and enjoy comfort foods with a cold beer.
As its name suggests, this Wan Chai mainstay occupies a 19th-century heritage building that was once the famous Woo Cheong Pawn Shop. The stylish interior features light woods and an uplifting color palette, while a long balcony overlooks the iconic Hong Kong tramway. Upstairs is the Kitchen restaurant, serving light and refined British cuisine.
A nice alternative to the dives of Wan Chai, sophisticated Rio has a plush bar with low-key live music and a dance club complete with a light-up floor. On weekends the party runs until very late.
This sleek rooftop bar, named after the Australian aboriginal word for "young male kangaroo," provides a respite from the Wan Chai crowds. There's a downstairs steak house, but the real draw is the alfresco bar. The breezy terrace and a panoramic view over Happy Valley have made it a favorite.
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