Diving

Um Gamar means "mother of the moon." Roughly 90 minutes offshore by speedboat, this is truly an amazing dive, with great walls and caves. The current here is light, making this one of the area's easier dives. Abu Nahas is a wreck diver's haven, with four large freighters sunk at reachable depths. About 25 years ago a ship carrying copper (nahas in Arabic) hit the reef and sank, hence the name of the site. The Tile Wreck carried Spanish tiles and sank in the same vicinity. And the Lentil Wreck became a smorgasbord for fish. You will encounter huge napoleons, groupers, schools of snappers, and catfish. Giannis D. hit the reef in 1983 and is a favorite; at 82 feet underwater you will find a large air pocket where you can speak to your buddy. Remember not to breathe the air, though, because it is stale and probably poisonous.

Emperor Divers. El Gouna's major dive operator is right on the beach at the Mövenpick Hotel. The young, international staff is passionate about diving and water sports. The impressive selection of dive courses includes all levels of PADI courses and technical diving, including the "Scubility" diving course. Mövenpick Resort and Spa, southeast of downtown, about 10 minutes by foot, el-Gouna, Red Sea, 84513. 012/325–8277; www.emperordivers.com.