As day softens into dusk in Italy, something in the air seems to tug people from their homes and workplaces to participate in one of the enduring traditions of Italian life: la passeggiata. This evening promenade, generally between 5 and 8 PM, occurs in virtually every town, village, or big city in Italy. Here are my tips for joining in the tradition, and some favorite spots for strolling in Italian cities.
Americans eat at any and all hours of the day and in every imaginable place (as well as while going from place to place). Italians, who consider the eating and enjoyment of food as much of an art as its preparation, take a much more organized approach to where, when, and how to eat. Here's an essential guide to navigating the world of restaurants in Italy.