Hora is a car-free quartet of irregular, interlocking squares clustered around old water wells. This is Piatsa (aka Kontarini). The restaurant on the left is 'O Kritikos' (the Cretan), so-named for the late owner, Christos, son of the original policeman on the isle. He had a distinctive silver moustache and was once very kind to a certain visitor, the sole tourist on the isle in March '92. I enjoyed many meals huddled next to his pot-bellied stove, as nearby elders fingered worry beads.