The main town of Fira remains the epicenter. It is always busy. We sought out the classic 'Nikolas' taverna there, in order to gift the waitstaff there something special. That was the enlarged photo portrait that I'd once taken of the owner back in '92. That owner was off on errands. With perfect dramatic timing, he arrived back at the taverna just we were leaving. Other diners gave a round of applause for the now-old man. Best. Damned. Olives!!!