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zebec
July 21, 2019
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This day's routing was: Usana van transfer to Escalona (Solomonte HQ) to use washroom/observe huge wall map/board the sturdy jeep. Then jeep with Raquel and our pair of new tourmates up to Bielsa (see map bottom R). Then ascend up the U-shaped Pineta valley to our terminus goal, the remote La Estiva refugio hut. Then reverse. For locals, this is a landmark mountain area, with a number of 'heavyweight' peaks exceeding 3000 meters.
This day's routing was: Usana van transfer to Escalona (Solomonte HQ) to use washroom/observe huge wall map/board the sturdy jeep. Then jeep with Raquel and our pair of new tourmates up to Bielsa (see map bottom R). Then ascend up the U-shaped Pineta valley to our terminus goal, the remote La Estiva refugio hut. Then reverse. For locals, this is a landmark mountain area, with a number of 'heavyweight' peaks exceeding 3000 meters.
0 2025/02/02 10:05:26 zebec
...the mind delights.
...the mind delights.
0 2025/01/30 22:29:28 zebec
Jesus was my guide at Ordesa-Perdido Park proper. Mrs Z. passed on that loooong daytrip, preferring to chill back in Usana. I will later describe the unusual set of rules regarding visits to that park (see 'Torla').
Jesus was my guide at Ordesa-Perdido Park proper. Mrs Z. passed on that loooong daytrip, preferring to chill back in Usana. I will later describe the unusual set of rules regarding visits to that park (see 'Torla').
0 2025/01/30 16:04:27 zebec
This Pineta valley part starts with this carving. For me, this fellow represents plucky determination. Like for example, if a certain Trip Reporter suddenly had several hours of their labeled photo essay work suddenly disappear at 2am due to some indecipherable tech issue. Sigh...
This Pineta valley part starts with this carving. For me, this fellow represents plucky determination. Like for example, if a certain Trip Reporter suddenly had several hours of their labeled photo essay work suddenly disappear at 2am due to some indecipherable tech issue. Sigh...
0 2025/02/02 10:12:17 zebec
Julian with his telescope. He also showed us all a cool app on his phone that labelled the names of the mountains and other features as they appeared right in front of us.
Julian with his telescope. He also showed us all a cool app on his phone that labelled the names of the mountains and other features as they appeared right in front of us.
0 2025/01/31 13:31:45 zebec
Here is a shot from nearby and larger Ainsa (ah-EEN-sah) , a proper town with a population of 1,640. Seen in the foreground is the less attractive modern part of Ainsa. It has a much more photogenic heritage section with Spain's largest village square, one which we will show later.
Here is a shot from nearby and larger Ainsa (ah-EEN-sah) , a proper town with a population of 1,640. Seen in the foreground is the less attractive modern part of Ainsa. It has a much more photogenic heritage section with Spain's largest village square, one which we will show later.
0 2025/01/30 21:03:59 zebec
There were artifacts both outside and...
There were artifacts both outside and...
0 2025/01/30 21:29:15 zebec
In some parts, the Escuain Garganta ('throat' or gorge) rock face is streaked orange-black. That's why we made the fonts above so coloured. Coming here during shoulder season meant far fewer crowds at the less-popular parts of the park such as Escuain. We saw only two other tourists there. The Visitor Center's gal was glad to see we three. Among the wildlife displays there, was a *'quebrantahuesos' stuffed bearded vulture. Its wingspan was impressive up close! *German: 'lammergeiter'
In some parts, the Escuain Garganta ('throat' or gorge) rock face is streaked orange-black. That's why we made the fonts above so coloured. Coming here during shoulder season meant far fewer crowds at the less-popular parts of the park such as Escuain. We saw only two other tourists there. The Visitor Center's gal was glad to see we three. Among the wildlife displays there, was a *'quebrantahuesos' stuffed bearded vulture. Its wingspan was impressive up close! *German: 'lammergeiter'
0 2025/02/01 12:28:04 zebec
Usana eggplant.
Usana eggplant.
0 2025/01/30 22:28:34 zebec
The latter flowed into a stretch of quasi-submerged trees lining its banks.
The latter flowed into a stretch of quasi-submerged trees lining its banks.
0 2025/01/30 22:24:36 zebec
That same wonderful terrace view also included a nearby semi-derelict church in neighbouring Banaston village. It was located across some gnarly bluffs, raw and wild (see below).
That same wonderful terrace view also included a nearby semi-derelict church in neighbouring Banaston village. It was located across some gnarly bluffs, raw and wild (see below).
0 2025/01/30 21:30:15 zebec
These teen punks were into Drake and Lady Gaga.
These teen punks were into Drake and Lady Gaga.
0 2025/01/31 13:32:54 zebec
Reflective image of Escuain, an abandoned former butter-producing village with a spectacular gorge.
Reflective image of Escuain, an abandoned former butter-producing village with a spectacular gorge.
0 2025/01/30 15:58:09 zebec
In the center, one can see the distinctive twin peaks of Los Astuzas (love that name). The leftmost twin is Gran Astuzas, which is 3080m. Its little brother Pequeno Astuzas is 'only' 3012. I mention these measurements to add some perspective. These are Tall mountains. Behind those twins is the popular ice climb 'Couloir Swan,' plus a tarn mountain lake.
In the center, one can see the distinctive twin peaks of Los Astuzas (love that name). The leftmost twin is Gran Astuzas, which is 3080m. Its little brother Pequeno Astuzas is 'only' 3012. I mention these measurements to add some perspective. These are Tall mountains. Behind those twins is the popular ice climb 'Couloir Swan,' plus a tarn mountain lake.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:29 zebec
There were no washrooms so...
There were no washrooms so...
0 2025/01/31 13:34:24 zebec
Dramatic, heart-stopping views are but one advantage of staying here. The above manager Jayne Calvert lives not far off and will take care of all your concerns.
Dramatic, heart-stopping views are but one advantage of staying here. The above manager Jayne Calvert lives not far off and will take care of all your concerns.
0 2025/01/30 21:25:37 zebec
Dots of colour. Fall was just beginning to show its true colours. On this slope we spotted a resting brown male 'sarrio' goat-antelope. Jesus had brought a telescope. We also saw vultures, marmots and one chamois.
Dots of colour. Fall was just beginning to show its true colours. On this slope we spotted a resting brown male 'sarrio' goat-antelope. Jesus had brought a telescope. We also saw vultures, marmots and one chamois.
0 2025/02/02 20:19:16 zebec
The second historic tunnel, which was located one lane below us. Usana was a paradise for both shutterbugs and painters.
The second historic tunnel, which was located one lane below us. Usana was a paradise for both shutterbugs and painters.
0 2025/01/30 21:28:20 zebec
Higher elevations are often home to thorny plants, ones which result in excellent local honey. Bees must love these cliffs and canyons.
Higher elevations are often home to thorny plants, ones which result in excellent local honey. Bees must love these cliffs and canyons.
0 2025/02/01 12:26:29 zebec
0 2025/02/02 19:52:42 zebec
Heavy rainfall a month earlier had resulted in serious flooding within the Circo di Pineta. This was the valley that we looked down onto from the Estiva refugio on the previous daytrip. The Ermita di Pineta chapel beside the parador was unharmed and the Visitor Center still stood. But the riverbed was littered with tons of flood refuse.
Heavy rainfall a month earlier had resulted in serious flooding within the Circo di Pineta. This was the valley that we looked down onto from the Estiva refugio on the previous daytrip. The Ermita di Pineta chapel beside the parador was unharmed and the Visitor Center still stood. But the riverbed was littered with tons of flood refuse.
0 2025/02/02 19:51:29 zebec
Next: our first daytrip with Raquel (Solomonte): the Ibon de Plan lake.
Next: our first daytrip with Raquel (Solomonte): the Ibon de Plan lake.
0 2025/01/30 22:47:33 zebec
The view from the end of the aforementioned tunnel is wonderful. An effort has been made to decorate both tunnels with some artifacts. Shown here was our rental's garden, with its nocturnal jasmine and more.
The view from the end of the aforementioned tunnel is wonderful. An effort has been made to decorate both tunnels with some artifacts. Shown here was our rental's garden, with its nocturnal jasmine and more.
0 2025/01/30 21:12:10 zebec
First Usana, Ainsa and the Park (read 'mountains') then we'll conclude up in Bielsa before the French Pyrenees.
First Usana, Ainsa and the Park (read 'mountains') then we'll conclude up in Bielsa before the French Pyrenees.
0 2025/01/30 15:55:22 zebec
Raquel pointed out this unique site: an ancient collapsed cave roof.
Next: the Conclusion, with Ordesa Park proper, the Parador, Ainsa town and music.
Raquel pointed out this unique site: an ancient collapsed cave roof. Next: the Conclusion, with Ordesa Park proper, the Parador, Ainsa town and music.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:40 zebec
This is the secluded village of Usana (oo-Sa-nah), nestled 600m up a hilltop in the heart of the Pyrenees. Our rental Casa Blas is located smack dab in the middle where you can see white shutters. The site is directly along the Camino di Santiago Compostela GR19 route. It is one of nine hamlets that compose the Banaston municipality.
This is the secluded village of Usana (oo-Sa-nah), nestled 600m up a hilltop in the heart of the Pyrenees. Our rental Casa Blas is located smack dab in the middle where you can see white shutters. The site is directly along the Camino di Santiago Compostela GR19 route. It is one of nine hamlets that compose the Banaston municipality.
0 2025/01/30 20:58:19 zebec
This map shows the heart of Ordesa-Perdido park proper. It receives the most visitors and those visitors are tightly controlled. To the best of my knowledge, no private vehicles have ever been allowed and there have been but three van tour companies allowed to operate inside the park. My Torla connection was one of them and an outfit with the same name also was in nearby Broto. The third van company was in Fanlo, but it seems out of business now.
This map shows the heart of Ordesa-Perdido park proper. It receives the most visitors and those visitors are tightly controlled. To the best of my knowledge, no private vehicles have ever been allowed and there have been but three van tour companies allowed to operate inside the park. My Torla connection was one of them and an outfit with the same name also was in nearby Broto. The third van company was in Fanlo, but it seems out of business now.
0 2025/02/02 19:41:28 zebec
*Later in Belsierre, her high school classmate Oscar drove by in his new one-person vehicle! He owns the modern tourist rental village there. The smell of cow manure was extremely powerful in Puertolas above. But those of who were born on farms feel that a multi-sensory approach is essential to grasp the full experience. And seriously, it'd be a great education for kids.
*Later in Belsierre, her high school classmate Oscar drove by in his new one-person vehicle! He owns the modern tourist rental village there. The smell of cow manure was extremely powerful in Puertolas above. But those of who were born on farms feel that a multi-sensory approach is essential to grasp the full experience. And seriously, it'd be a great education for kids.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:23 zebec
*Ibon de Plan is a pristine lake with an entry hike. Raquel picked us up. Juancho had earlier been busy transferring some cyclists to a mountaintop for sunrise. Those riders had been part of a major international cycle fest centered up at Bielsa. Raquel brought the Solomonte jeep, not the van. Note that she and Juancho speak good English. In addition, they guide various adventure water sports popular in the area e.g. canyoning. *image above shows elsewhere
SOLOMONTE phone +34 617 99 5434
*Ibon de Plan is a pristine lake with an entry hike. Raquel picked us up. Juancho had earlier been busy transferring some cyclists to a mountaintop for sunrise. Those riders had been part of a major international cycle fest centered up at Bielsa. Raquel brought the Solomonte jeep, not the van. Note that she and Juancho speak good English. In addition, they guide various adventure water sports popular in the area e.g. canyoning. *image above shows elsewhere SOLOMONTE phone +34 617 99 5434
0 2025/01/30 23:50:03 zebec
Such moody clouds.
Such moody clouds.
0 2025/01/30 22:25:45 zebec
We felt sorry for this Canuck bum traveler and gave him a lift.
We felt sorry for this Canuck bum traveler and gave him a lift.
0 2025/01/30 16:03:42 zebec
Timeless icon of Iberia.
Timeless icon of Iberia.
0 2025/01/30 15:59:44 zebec
Bucolic landscape was never far away.
Bucolic landscape was never far away.
0 2025/01/30 22:25:14 zebec
A sunset view from our terrace. Such an endless expanse of sky. Perfect for drinks, be they a sunrise coffee or a sunset Rioja.  And a great place to dry wet laundry!
A sunset view from our terrace. Such an endless expanse of sky. Perfect for drinks, be they a sunrise coffee or a sunset Rioja. And a great place to dry wet laundry!
0 2025/01/30 21:25:43 zebec
Here is but one example, branches stripped of their bark. The cows and their calves had the run of the valley floor. Cue the (for us) humorous sign without words, just a cow symbol with a red line across it. that meant 'Por favor Parador guests: please keep the gate closed.'
Here is but one example, branches stripped of their bark. The cows and their calves had the run of the valley floor. Cue the (for us) humorous sign without words, just a cow symbol with a red line across it. that meant 'Por favor Parador guests: please keep the gate closed.'
0 2025/02/02 19:52:15 zebec
Usana pomegranates.
Usana pomegranates.
0 2025/01/30 22:28:14 zebec
Did I mention mountains? Ordesa-Perdido park's Circo de Soaso with the famed Cala Caballo (horse's tail). *Next=our wonderful Casa Blas rental house.
Did I mention mountains? Ordesa-Perdido park's Circo de Soaso with the famed Cala Caballo (horse's tail). *Next=our wonderful Casa Blas rental house.
0 2025/01/30 16:06:27 zebec
And it had a beautiful lake. The looming karstic landscape hinted at highlights to come.
And it had a beautiful lake. The looming karstic landscape hinted at highlights to come.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:57 zebec
There were two pine species, black plus orange or Scot. Each preferred its own altitude. During our brief stop at this mirador, we asked Raquel to clarify various Spanish accents. She explained that Andalucians drop the final letter; Northeners (inc. Toledo) are proper and pronounce all letters; Zaragosans 'sing' sentences while the Euskadi do a hard 'K' as their language is not a Latin-based one. Her explanation was fun!
There were two pine species, black plus orange or Scot. Each preferred its own altitude. During our brief stop at this mirador, we asked Raquel to clarify various Spanish accents. She explained that Andalucians drop the final letter; Northeners (inc. Toledo) are proper and pronounce all letters; Zaragosans 'sing' sentences while the Euskadi do a hard 'K' as their language is not a Latin-based one. Her explanation was fun!
0 2025/01/31 00:26:13 zebec
Escuain village is now attracting some folks intent on restoring buildings as holiday homes. During each fall season, they will continue to experience (as we did) annual 'transhumance' cow migrations, with sizable herds coming down from the mountains. You could hear their cowbells coming down en mase from Tozal de Raton for miles. Whereas France has laws disallowing dogs off-leash in mountain parks, here we saw local tourists allowing their pets to bark at the bovine migration.
Escuain village is now attracting some folks intent on restoring buildings as holiday homes. During each fall season, they will continue to experience (as we did) annual 'transhumance' cow migrations, with sizable herds coming down from the mountains. You could hear their cowbells coming down en mase from Tozal de Raton for miles. Whereas France has laws disallowing dogs off-leash in mountain parks, here we saw local tourists allowing their pets to bark at the bovine migration.
0 2025/02/01 12:27:01 zebec
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