Centralparkgirl's First Trip to California
 

I know it's hard to believe, but I had never been west of Arizona. Let me begin by saying that I just LOVED everything about the places we visited in northern Cal. What beauty, what majesty, what fun.....what a state! And SF - I adore this city - it has it all (almost, remember I'm a NYer!) I loved it so much that I think of it as a bookend to NY - the US wrapped by two such different, but great cities.

Let me also begin by saying after planning since last spring, the trip almost didn't happen. DH has health issues and he's having major surgery in a few weeks. This has been in the works for quite some time. But three weeks before we were to leave, he really felt poorly and the trip was very doubtful. I canceled our Napa hotel and dropped the ball with booking wineries, etc. and other planning. Six days before our trip, miraculously he felt better and he wanted to go. So, I rebooked the hotel and started scurrying. I also looked at the plans differently, trying to plan to do less than we normally would and at a slower pace. We usually walk a lot when we travel and I've had an ankle problem since May with daily pain. Another miracle: the day before we departed, the pain subsided. So, off we went.

Departure: We left NY Fri afternoon and took Carmel car service - a nightmare! The driver spoke no intelligible English, spoke on a hand held cell, turned completely around when talking to us and twice made major blunders with the routes he chose. We ended up on the Whitestone in traffic that literally halted for 20 minutes. We thought we would miss our flight. Another miracle: we got to JFK on time and I called Carmel and gave them a piece of my mind.

I had used minimal mileage for Business class because I booked very early. I also had booked the redeye home, not a good idea now with dh's situation. When I called to get an earlier flight, we ended up getting upgraded to first class with less mileage than if we stayed in business - don't ask me how, but it was certainly great for us.
We land around 9 pm and take the blueline to the car rental - so easy and so civilized. We drive to a nearby Marriott Courtyard and spend the night.

Day 1 - Saturday Oct 11, 2008

We leave the Marriott early and take a road near the Presidio to the GG Bridge. Drivers don't signal and I feel at home. Then we see the bridge - I just love the matte orange color. I haven't been that excited driving across a bridge since I first crossed the Verrazano when it was first built. It is magnificent. We follow Stu's recommendation up to the GGNRA. We go to the top first and make several stops as we descend. It is a crystal clear day, crisp and sunny with the bluest sky. We are in love! We take lots of pictures, but the sun is facing us - not ideal.

We then head into Sausalito and eat a quick breakfast in a bakery on Bridgeway facing the water. What a view! Sausalito is charming. We walk along the water and brouse a bit. The third center lane on Bridgeway is used by big trucks delivering produce to restaurants - how efficient!

Now we begin our drive north on Highway 1. I was overwhelmed by the breathtaking beauty of it all - the ocean, the hills, the trees, the farms - all of it! We decide to pass Muir Woods and try for Armstrong later in the day. We stop at Muir Beach Overlook and walk along the rustic walkway that juts out over the ocean - just spectacular - I am trying to remember a line from the "Shawshank Redemption" where he says something about seeing the Pacific in his dreams. I, too, will dream about it or at least forever see it in my mind.

We continue on, stopping at Stinson Beach and other overlooks whose names escape me now. Each one has it's own unique beauty. We stop for lunch at Nick's Cove overlooking Tomales Bay.

More later.........

Hi CP:
It's so wonderful to hear that you were able to go and how much you and your husband loved San Francisco...it truly is a "magical" city and very well stated "bookend to NY", I firmly agree.
Sausalito is absolutely charming.
Looking forward to reading the rest of your report.
Hope all goes very well with your husband's surgery and that he is feeling better.
Sincerely,
Steelygirl

AHH! Referencing Shawshank! I love it!

I also had the good fortune to have a job that took me to San Fran once a month. I always made sure to get in a day early to play "Tourist"

A great city!

My biggest SF moment was jogging near the Presidio and came across Joe Dimaggio! We jogged/walked together for about 1/2 mile! Needless to say it was a Kodak Moment for sure!

Hi steely - thanks for the good thoughts - we do have to take care of our good men!

bmw - jogging with Joe - wow! That's a once in a lifetime moment!

Lunch at Nick's Cove - we really enjoyed this place - we had a table next to the window overlooking Tomales Bay. DH spoke to our waitress about local oysters and she described them for him - her husband is a manager at Hog Island. He tried four types and then had a butternut squash soup. I started with clam chowder and it was excellent - not the starchy version with rubberized clams that so many places present. The clams were briny, tender, full of flavor and garnished with a bit of crisp bacon. We then shared Bouillabaise linguini - clams, shrimp and mussels - very light and flavorful with fennel - perfectly al dente.

We continue up the coast from Bodega Bay to Jenner. The views of the beach and coast with large rocks and boulders jutting out of the ocean are beautiful. And the Pacific - so blue....so vast! We drive down a winding road to Goat Rock Beach - walk around and take pictures; it was quite windy, but so ruggedly beautiful. Then we head east along the Russian River on a scenic country road. After awhile, we spot our first sight of grapes. We go through Guerneville and on to Healdsburg. We realize and regret that there is not enough time to stop at Armstrong Woods. We arrive at Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza and find a parking spot across the street. We check in with an employee who looks like he's 12. Our room is on the second floor, with bay windows overlooking the plaza and I am surprised how quiet it is. The room is large with immaculate bed linens and the softest towels. There is a gas fireplace. The bathroom is large with a deep soaking tub as well as a shower. We then go for a walk around the plaza and go into many shops - I didn't expect such lovely, upscale shops. I buy ds1 a toy, anatomically correct steer (I'm later told it's a Holstein) because he is farming and planning to raise a few. We go back to the Inn to change for dinner.

Cyrus - my NY friends are amazed when I tell them this was the best meal of my life. I am not kidding. I could write at great length about this restaurant - let's just say the large staff could not have been nicer, friendlier or more unpretentious. We opt for a 4 or 5 course meal with paired wines for the first three courses. DH is relieved when we finally order because the possibilities are endless - too many options for him! I start with a glass of champagne and he a JWBlack. The amuse bouches begin. Later, after three impeccable courses, we decide to share a cheese course and share a dessert - all are excellent including the breads served with butter from France and California as well as white salt from England and orange salt from Hawaii (you California foodies are so progressive!). We are amazed that such a young chef is not only that creative, but he executes it all flawlessly...what talent. We chat with one of the wait staff who is his business partner. We are sent home with brownies labeled 'Tomorrow?'.

End of first day.

Hi CP,
Sorry to hear about your husband not doing well. Both Steely and I are here for you if you need anything.
I had a feeling Cyrus would have been your favorite meal. We had a an early New Year's dinner there last year and loved it. In fact, Cyrus is ahead of Danko in the newest Zagat ratings.

Hang in there CP !!

Sounds lovely, I'm so glad you were able to dine at Cyrus, we have been twice, it really is a foodie's heaven ! ***kim*** ((#))

Your trip sounds wonderful, and your brief mention of Bodega Bay brings to mind a special memory for me. When our son was 7 months old we traveled to San Francisco to visit my wife's sister. My in-laws were excited to hear about our plans, and decided to attend a conference there at the same time. On a gorgeous Sunday afternoon we drove through the Russian River Valley and ended up in Bodega Bay. I remember walking down to the beach, and seeing the seals basking in the sun. As we left town the setting sun was glowing on the hills where a group of deer roamed. It was a moment of true serenity, and beauty.

We were told the Hitchcock film, "The Birds", was filmed there, but I do not know if that is accurate. Our son is now a freshman at UCLA while we're still living on the East Coast. The years do fly.

There is a small town called Bodega that's just inland from Bodega Bay. That's where "the Birds" was filmed.

My wife ate my "tomorrow" brownie from Cyrus.

Stu Dudley

BTW, the waiter you met at Cyrus that was a part owner, was probably Nick Peyton. We was also either a part owner or just the "front of the house guy" at Gary Danko's, but left there to start Cyrus.

Stu Dudley

andrew8 - you are so sweet with your offer! As it turns out, my husband was admitted to the hospital today. He had a 'pre-surgery' surgical procedure on Wed that was supposed to make him feel better and make the surgery next month easier for the surgeon. That is not what has happened. He was so ill this morning that it was scary. Amazingly, by 7pm tonight he seemed much improved (he's had a lot of drugs today). We'll know more tomorrow. We were supposed to be visiting DS2 today for Parents Weekend, an event we absolutely love, but it is not to be. Last Fri, we were happy in SF and today we were in the ER. Keep your fingers crossed for us.

Please keep me up to date CP. Our prayers are with your husband.

Hi CP,
Please let us know how you're doing and if you need anything we can be there for you as were close by.

Hi andrew8 - just got home - 5 years ago, he had routine surgery and ended up with internal damage. After a month in the hospital and a long recovery, he healed and was ok for two years. Symptoms of the injury reappeared about 3 years ago and we have been living with it since under the care of a wonderful doctor. Most of the time it has been very manageable and dh never complains. In the last few months the symptoms have increased and major repair surgery is necessary and scheduled in a few weeks. The rest you know - he felt better before the trip and thankfully during the trip, but what's happened this week was so unexpected. He has slept a good part of the day, has no fever but is still quite uncomfortable and he is sad - understandingly so. And he keeps thanking me for being there and apologizing for putting me through this - he really is a selfless person.

I always like to plan our trips, but I got a little obsessive this time because I wanted it to be perfect for him. I just wanted him to relax and try to forget some of this stuff for even a little while. And it was (except for one bad thing which I will get to when I resume my trip report).

This afternoon when I was watching him sleep, I said to a very old friend of his who was with me that only last Sat we slept on Frette sheets in SF and one week later he's sleeping on hospital linens. And his friend said, 'And you can be sure this room is costing you more!' I had to laugh.

Anyway, andrew8, thanks so much for caring - you're a good guy! I am actually doing ok - it's never been difficult for me to be an advocate for my family. I will be in touch tomorrow and maybe get back to my trip report because it's a nice respite to talk about such a great time.

Good night!

Hi cpg,

I am really enjoying your report. Best wishes to your husband for a succesful surgery and a speedy recovery.

I am so glad that you liked Goat Rock and that area! That part of the coast from Bodega Bay north to Goat Rock is one of my favorite places. It is simply beautiful in a stark, windswept way. We always stop at Goat Rock and check out the seals that inhabit the sand spit that juts out into the end of the Russian River.

Hello Centralparkgirl, I am sure glad you two had a wonderful time in NCA but sure sorry to hear your husband is having serious medical problems. My very best wishes and prayers that somehow the doctors can restore him to good health.

We are still having beautiful crystal clear weather here.

Hopefully you two can return at some time in the future. Take good care of yourself while you take good care of your dear husband!

Hi CP,
Hope your husband had a better day today.

iamq, LoveItaly and andrew - my sincerest thanks for your concern and good wishes. Today is a bit better; he still has pain, but his counts are back to normal. I'm hoping he gets to come home tomorrow and so is he. At least he saw the Giants win today.

kim - I think I first heard of Cyrus from your postings - great rec!

Stu - I don't recall his name, but the gentleman we spoke to was involved with Gary Danko. That explains the similarities of how the menus are set up.

iamq - someone here wrote that Goat Rock was a must - was that you?

Day 2 - Sunday, October 12th.

We start with breakfast in a lovely 2nd floor room overlooking the Plaza. Breakfast is self-serve - plentiful, but ordinary.

We check out and drive through the Alexander Valley to Ferrari-Carano winery. We watch a video downstairs and then we share a tasting. The people are friendly; we like nothing that we taste. We walk through their award winning gardens, beautifully laid out with little bridges and waterfalls. The other manicured grounds have well-trimmed hedges and very lovely begonias and coleus.

We continue on to Geyser Peak. We choose them because since the WSJ gave them a great write-up three years ago, we frequently have their very inexpensive sauvignon blanc at home. I had never even thought about where Geyser Peak is and now here we are. We opt to go upstairs for the 'better wines' and dislike all the cabs we taste.

Off to Napa! We take 128 through beautiful countryside stopping at Jimtown. I am suddenly ravenous (from the wine?) and pick up a small tomato basil soup with fresh croutons. We connect to 29, but don't enter Calistoga. We drive through St. Helena and voila, there's Taylor's Refresher. What an enormous line. DH jumps out and I go park. We eat at a picnic table out back - it is quite breezy and gloriously sunny. We have the infamous Ahi tuna burger and garlic fries - all quite good.

We cross Zinfandel Lane to the Silverado Trail and drive to Mumm. We take a tour led by Lorraine who used to live on 14th St & 7th. (On this trip, whenever we open our mouths, people know where we are from (why is that?) and so many of them have lived in NY at one time or another). We learn about the french method of making sparkling wine and tour the facility. We enjoy this tour very much. Afterward, we walk through their gallery and view the Ansel Adams photos as well as those that are also beautiful, but by less well known artists. There is a photo of a tree in fog that I would love to own.

On to the tasting - we are seated at a table overlooking the valley and sample four sparkling wines - delicious! The terrain of the valley is so scenic. I don't know what I expected, but the hills are just beautiful. We enjoy the view as much as the tasting.

We drive to La Residence just south of Yountville and check in. Our king suite is quite nice with sitting areas inside and outside the room; the linens and towels are immaculate - very nice bathroom with double sinks. The room is quite close to the road, but it is quiet. (BTW they will be razing some of their buildings in the near future and building a larger facility. I think taking care to do it right.)

For dinner - we eat at Mustards - crowded, noisy and they are running late with their reservations. The bar is full and it is too congested to stand and enjoy a drink - many people are annoyed (me too). We get a lovely young waitress - the bread is crusty and wonderful. I start with a salad that is almost mediocre. DH and I both have the Mongolian Pork Chop with mashed potatoes and sweet and sour cabbage - this dish is outstanding.

We eat our 'tomorrow?' brownies from Cyrus - they look like average brownies, but they are not - dark, not too sweet with great smooth texture - what kind of chocolate do they use????

End of day 2 - I can still see the Pacific!

Oh and yesterday, somewhere along the way from Jenner to Healdsburg, we spot a palm tree! It looks so strange to us. What is it doing here?

Keep the report coming CP !

I thought I was the one who told you about Cyrus :(.....just kidding...glad you enjoyed it.

By the way, trust me when I tell you that Iamq has exquisite taste.

cpg, I am glad that you and your husband had such a great trip. You barely scratched the surface, so there is plenty left for a second trip, a third trip...

>>End of day 2 - I can still see the Pacific!<<

From Yountville???

>>Oh and yesterday, somewhere along the way from Jenner to Healdsburg, we spot a palm tree! It looks so strange to us. What is it doing here?>>

We have three 40 foot Canary Island palms in our front yard. It was quite popular in the late 1800s and early 1900s to plant palm trees in front of houses.

Stu Dudley

Since the WSJ article, Geyser Peak has been bought & sold. Could be the reason.

MY

He's back! DH got released late this afternoon and he's home, tired with no appetite and uncomfortable, but here!!!! I just gave him the smallest bowl of chicken soup - hey, can't hurt, right?

andrew8 - you did recommend Cyrus too! And I trust your taste - totally!

MichelleY - I never tasted their reds before, so I don't know if the sale made a difference.

About the palm trees - when we were in Napa someone told us that the palm trees there were a bit of a controversy; that when people started planting them 20 years ago, there were a lot of purists who didn't want them brought in.

Does anyone know if there's any truth to this?

Our palm trees are 100 years old. Like I stated - they were very popular with the turn of the century 108 years ago.

My wife leads lots of Victorian house tours - and she can spot a Victorian blocks away by the presence of palm trees.

Stu Dudley

Stu - but what about further north in Napa?

I believe I've seen the same palm trees on wineries just off the Silverado Trail in Calistoga.

I'm so happy your husband is home CP...wonderful news !!
He can watch both football and the World Series tonight.

Hi andrew - he loves both sports, but he's taking his meds and going to sleep soon - hopefully tomorrow will be better. He is itching to get to his emails from work - a good sign!

There are lots & lots of country Victorians in Marin, Sonoma, and Napa counties. We've seen dozens of palm trees on old houses up there in the last 33 years.

Stu Dudley

Day 3 - Monday Oct 13th

Our first breakfast at La Renaissance is in a lovely muted room with large windows, country french tables and chairs. There are various newspapers spread out, french roast coffees and teas and some juices and baked goods, but the real breakfast is made to order. Each day there is a little menu with three choices. Maria takes our order - I have light and crisp waffles; dh has some kind of egg and cheese sandwich and there is always fresh melon and berries served first. It is prepared and served with care.

We then head north for our first early morning tour at Castello di Amorosso. Our tour guide is not only very personable, but she is well informed about it's construction and authenticity as a reproduction, using old materials from Europe, etc. When she points out the change in style of stonework (supposedly done by villagers vs craftsmen), I think about the building of the cathedral in "Pillars of the Earth." There are only five of us on the tour and we really enjoy it - the murals, towers, floors, and endless details. When it's time for tasting, the other three people have to leave. Our tour guide says since it's only the two of you, 'just tell me what you like and you can taste anything.' And so we do. We like Italian wines and like several of these. We order a mixed case and have them ship it home. The surrounding views are beautiful.

We then drive over to Calistoga, park and walk around. There are shops that have gone out of business and there's a slightly depressed feel about the town imo. I call 'Old Faithful' to find out the schedule. They say it should pop in 20 minutes, so we drive over only to find it gated with a lot of guys milling about, even in the middle of the road. We can't enter because they are filming a movie. We wonder if they thought we were calling from Iowa just to check on the geyser's regularity? Couldn't they have told us on the phone that they were closed?

We then head off to Schramsburg and thoroughly enjoy hearing tales about Jacob Schram and how he got into the sparkling wine business, it's eventual demise and about the people who ressurected it so lovingly. The return of the three original oak barrels is a great tale. We taste in a private room and enjoy the selections.

It's time for lunch and we go to Auberge where we have a lovely table outside overlooking the valley. Service is quite good, but our choices are not so. DH has a risotto with duck that is delicious, but too rich and heavy for lunch on a hot day. I have a lobster salad perfectly poached, but the curry used is too strong.

Now we head to St Helena in search of Kal's mighty EVOO. I recall that
it's near Tra Vigne, but we can't find it. Not one to give up, we ask in a consignment shop and learn that we didn't travel far enough up the street. We head back and find it. It's a great old space and we talk to the owner's daughter and see her father. She pours a little for me on wax paper and I slurp. I can recall that DH gave me 'the look' (he hates to shlep, especially things we can get at home). I ignore 'the look' and buy a quart. It's dangerous packing it in checked luggage and it would be a shame if DH's clothes got wet - lol!

We return to St Helena to walk around and browse in the nice shops and sample some Woodhouse chocolates - devine, but it's way too hot to try to take some home (I don't get 'the look.')

We head to one more tasting (free) at V. Santuii (same owner as the Castello) but it's a hard sell and we don't like what we're tasting. The house is very nice.

We return to the inn and later dine at Redd.

End of Day 3

Hello Centralparkgirl, Solano County cities have many old (over 100 years old) Palm Trees in front of Victorian houses also. My daughter almost crashed into one when I was teaching her to drive. Thankfully she didn't..they are so lovely and historic.

I have thought of you and your husband today. I am glad he is home. Obviously he is not feeling well but I am holding the good thought that in the future he will be on the road to recovery. Hugs to both of you!

LoveItaly - collective good thoughts can never hurt - thank you!

Sounds very nice, how did you like REDD? We had a lovely lunch there. ***kim*** ((f))

The rural Central Valley of California is also the home of very, large, old palm trees. It usually a sign that a Victorian once stood on the property. Besides the Canary Island palm, California Fan Palms are common. Palms can grow most places in CA if there is no snow or deep, frequent freezes.

I am enjoying your report very much and am glad your DH is on his way to recovery.

MY

Thank you all for clarifying the palm mystery. That's what I love about Fodor's - talking to the people who know!

Kim - Redd was very good, but if I were returning to Napa, it wouldn't be on my list for the next visit.

Day 4 - Tuesday Oct. 14th

Another gorgeous morning in California - I could really get used to this weather. We are served another good breakfast by Maria. It seems some guests have snatched the first section of the NYTimes this morning and taken it to their room!

We drive to the Chateau Montelena Estate and take their self-guided tour (not much of a tour really) and we walk around Jade Lake watching the birds. At this tasting, we like a very light Riesling that will be great in the summer. I get 'the look' from dh, but order six bottles to be shipped. It's a very pleasant place to visit.

We go back to Old Faithful (it's open today) and watch it's eruption while sitting in an Adirondack type chair. We enjoy seeing things that are uncommon in nature. We have never seen a geyser before and it is quite interesting.

We drive to Go Fish for lunch and are pleasantly surprised. I was expecting a little fish shack and not the large, beautiful restaurant that it is. Cindy is there, but goes into a meeting. We sit outside under those great trees (huckleberry?) We have a fantastic lunch of manila clams, ahi poke, and that incredible, exorbitant lobster sushi roll. This is a restaurant I would like to try for dinner one day.

We decide to visit Hess solely to see the art collection. We take Mt. Veeder Road which is quite the drive. It's a beautiful mountain road with very few signs and at times we wonder where we are. After about 30 minutes, we arrive at Hess. We start at the top level and work our way down - we are not huge modern art enthusiasts and after viewing the collection, we are not converted. It is interesting how the new building is incorporated into the old. We take a different road down and are 'on land' in 10 minutes.

Tonight's dinner is at Brix, an attractive restaurant with a gift shop. I've never seen an extensive shop in an upscale restaurant before. The food and service are good, but the menu accents their own wines that are much more expensive than the others. Is the tone here more enterprise than restaurant?

End of Day 4

Brix got a horrible review from the SF Chronicle restaurant critic. Perhaps the most negative review I've ever read about a restaurant in the greater Bay Area.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...&type=food

Stu Dudley

What a scathing review!

Fortunately our meal wasn't like that. It was far from great, but nothing like the reviewer's multiple experiences. The waiter was competent and polite, but quite serious. DH started with beet salad and then scallops. I had a green salad followed by lamb (overpriced). We didn't have dessert or coffee. I drank a $10 riesling instead of the Brix $18 cab - a bit outrageous in my book.

Of the three nights in Napa, there wasn't one dinner restaurant that I would want to return to. I would try Go Fish, as I mentioned earlier, and maybe Bouchon or Bistro Jeanty. btw, Bouchon was celebrating their 10th anniversary while we were there.

Terra is nice.

Stu Dudley

CP,
You've done such a great job with your trip report. We've always enjoyed Calistoga and sad to hear about the business's not doing well.
I totally agree with Stu about Terra as we had a great dinner a few years back when we were in wine country. In fact the same owners of Terra opened Ame in the St. Regis Hotel in San. Francisco.