Sorry, AV, for borrowing your thread for a stroll down helado land :)


Not just ice cream but food in general says a lot about the real anywhere...
Galeano (you don't have to like his politics to appreciate his writing) puts it well--

"The stomach is part of the human soul. The mouth is its gateway. Tell me what you eat and I’ll tell you who you are. It’s not about how much you eat but what and how you choose to do so. How people prepare food is an important part of their cultural identity. It matters greatly to poor or even very poor people, who have little or no food but who respect traditions that turn the trivial act of barely eating into a small ritual."

since the thread's been hijacked anyway - I'll put my two cents in... Volta, spectacular - both the gelato and the service; Chungo, excellent as well, though their service tends to be a little scatter-brained; either of them tops Persicco - which after trying it repeatedly I've found has ice crystals in their gelato and has some of the most unhelpful and arrogant staff I've encountered in a gelato place here.

This is clearly your fault, Doc!!!!

And to think, I used to trust your judgement Dan. Persicco's raspberry (frambuesa) ice cream is nothing short of heavenly .....

Despite your flawed judgement on ice cream in Buenos Aires, I still plan to try the restaurant in Belgrano that you recently recommended..... lol

And now we return you to the feature presentation, The REAL Buenos Aires....

Is this tour still being offered Mr. avrooster?
It sounds very interesting...

Yes, jaspertl, it is still being offered, but, intentionally, not being promoted.

If you have read the above carefully, you should already know it is sort of a barter deal: I'll show you at least a part of my town and you will show me at least a part of YOUR town.

So, if you are still interested, write to me at the e-mail indicated somewhere above and we'll take it from there.

Hello avrooster,

I've seen from the last post that this tour is still being offered. I would definitely love to see the "real" buenos aires.

In return, i think you would find how enchanting Manila, Philippines is, if ever you get to travel here. By your description it seems that we may have the same thing to offer, although culturally it may have its differences.

I will be in BA on July 31st, would that be a good time to tour?

Thanks so much, hope to hear from you soon.

OK, muma! Please write to my e-mail indicated somewhere above, telling me a little more and we'll take it from there, like I also said in the post immediately above yours.

avrooster will respond to your e-mail almost immediately.
We plan to take advantage of his generosity this "spring".
M (SMdA, Gto.)

Mikemo: above I said my tour is "still being offered, but, intentionally, not being promoted."

Please do not promote it. LOL!!!

Be warned: AV does not kiss other men and does not drink Malbec. How he can call this a tour of the "real' Buenos Aires is beyond me. REAL Argentinos aren't ashamed to express their emotions and enjoy a good glass of vino tinto now and again. lol...

Ok, turning serious for a moment, taking the train from Retiro to the suburbs, witnessing the White Train with Cartoneros who represent visible evidence of the failure of the Argentine economy, eating in a local parrilla far, far from the tourist trail, make this tour worthwhile for those looking for a glimpse into the world beyond El Caminito and the Casa Rosada and other tourist destinations.

That AV conducts this tour not as a means of making money but soley for the reason of promoting cross cultural understanding (ok, that and an invitation to visit your hometown speaks volumes about his character and heart, even if he doesn't enjoy hugging or vino.

The FAMOUS drdawggy, who took my tour recently, INSISTED on kissing me when we met that day. Somehow or other, I managed to evade his hug.

Besides, he shaves rather infrequently!!! LOL!!!!

One more thing, Doc: "soley" ???? And you opened ( and never closed it.

This is a serious forum, Doc, not like the other place where we meet all the time. LOL!!!

Claro,
M (SMdA,Gto., MX)

I just got back from a great week-long trip to Buenos Aires, this time on my own – I’ve been several times before and love the place. One of the highlights was the Real Buenos Aires tour!!

Here’s what I did:
The first night, I took the Real Buenos Aires tour with AV Rooster and a very nice family (mom, dad, son, daughter, and grandmother) from Scotland. It was the second time I took the tour – the first time, I was so jet lagged I missed things, but mostly just wanted to take it again. We took the TBA commuter train from Retiro to an upscale suburb, an interesting thing to do in itself. Then we waited on the platform for the cartonero train. It is the cattle car-like train that the people who collect cardboard ride to and from Buenos Aires. The trains are old, very beat up, grim-looking, run very fast, and have no heat or light, and only bars covering the windows. Children ride them along with their parents. They make just enough by selling the cardboard so they don’t starve. B.A.’s a magical place, but that’s also part of the reality, and one I wouldn’t have seen otherwise.
We also went to dinner at a local parilla – great place, and I really wish I could have dinner there tonight. AV gave us the rundown on the various types of steak, and we split a few amongst ourselves and had some other B.A.-type things like grilled provoleta. The family’s tour guide, Mariana, also joined us. She is a native of Buenos Aires, cultured and sophisticated, and also warm and sensitive to the various needs of three different generations. She drove us back to the city in her station wagon, which was big enough for all of us. If I had it to do over again, I would definitely want a B.A. native guide to take me around at least the first time, and then to do special things on return trips. The city has so much to offer, and it just takes too much time to try to figure things out on your own, like milongas, getting tickets to the Colon Theater when it’s about to close for two years, what restaurants are a good value etc. I think it would be even more important if you have a family along with you, if you have limited time, and if you don’t speak Spanish.
I also had the good fortune to have lunch later in the trip with AV at the Hotel Alvear – what an incredibly beautiful place, with perfect service, and exquisite food. The buffet was wonderful, with the best salmon I’ve ever seen or tasted, other seafood, various vegetables and salads; also great warm dishes such as pasta with spinach, pork, and lomo. The dessert buffet was in an adjacent room, an amazing display of beautiful small cakes, creme brulee, etc. And they tasted as great as they looked. It’s hard to describe how beautiful the Alvear is – gilt, cherubs, chandeliers – and the buffet was served in a particularly gorgeous part of the hotel. Highest possible recommendation! It was a highlight of my trip, along with the Real Buenos Aires tour. AV is a real Argentinian gentleman – though he would be a gentleman anywhere.
I stayed in an apartment in Barrio Norte, which I rented on-line through Bytargentina.com. I wouldn’t have had the nerve to do it the first few times in B.A., but it was really affordable compared to a hotel and I just took the leap. The place was fine but the street noise was really loud just about 24 hours a day – cars and trucks roaring by, motorbikes, plenty of honking, dogs barking etc. If I do it again, I’ll make sure it’s a unit not facing the street. The ad said it was quiet, maybe quiet for B.A., but not what I’d call quiet. You have to put up a deposit equal to a week’s rent, but I got it all back with no trouble at all. I either walked or took the Subte everywhere from there.
Also took two walking tours with Robert Wright, an American who lives in Buenos Aires and obviously loves it. He’s incredibly knowledgeable and genuinely enthusiastic. The first was of Art Nouveau buildings and was fantastic. We went on Sunday to avoid the buses and crowds. There’s something wonderful on almost every street in B.A., almost too much to absorb, and Robert has found some amazing buildings I wouldn't have noticed on my own. I got a rich historical perspective on the city through its architecture. I also took his Caballito tour – it’s a middle-class neighborhood, huge, and didn’t see any tourists there. He also showed me a couple of parks in Caballito that have been recently renovated, after having gone to ruin with the economic crisis. Highly recommended.
Otherwise, I walked around a lot and tried to go to good restaurants as often as possible. I had lunch at Le Sud, in the Hotel Sofitel, one of the best French places in town. They have a lunch special with two courses and a glass of wine for US$15. Some of the best food and the best service I’ve ever had. Also enjoyed La Parolaccia, Riobamba 1046 (Italian); Nucha, Parana 1343 (fabulous bakery, had medialunas and café con leche there as often as possible); Cumana, Rodriguez Pena 1149 (empanadas); and Los Inmortales, Parana 1209 (pizza); and Confiteria las Violetas, Rivadavia 3899. One thing I love is the refined, formal service from the waiters in just about every place: No “You still working on that?,” “Let me get that out of your way” (as they snatch my food away while I’m still eating); or “My name’s Jason and I’ll be your server.” I went to lunch at Olsen in Palermo Hollywood, which is gorgeous and a great bargain, just for the experience. I didn’t eat big dinners and didn’t stay out late. I didn’t feel especially awkward eating alone – just enjoyed the beautiful restaurants and the food.
I did notice that there has been inflation in the past couple of years. The things tourists buy cost more now, but still affordable given the exchange rate. I took the TBA train to San Isidro, a well-to-do suburb, and bought gifts there, both in the shops and in the shopping area around the Tren de la Costa, finding them noticeably cheaper.
I also had a haircut and highlights for less than $30 – still can’t believe it – in a salon in a gorgeous mansion on Ayacucho. That would set me back $200 in Washington – maybe for a fancier highlighting process and more sophisticated haircut, but give me the one in B.A. any time.
If I’d wanted to, I could have gone on an estancia trip, or to a tango show, but I had done those things before and wasn’t bored for a minute. It was fun just to walk around and take pictures. Also loved the TV commercials and the telenovelas, even if I only understood 20% of the dialogue. I’ll be back at the first opportunity.

Hello Alberto;

My husband, Marvin & I will be in Buenos Aires over Christmas and would like to take your Real Buenos Aires tour, if it is still available. Our itinerary is already quite packed, but we would love to squeeze this in! Would it be possible for us take the tour Dec. 19th.? We will be staying at the Home Hotel in Palermo - I am unsure as to where that is in relation to your meeting place.

Please let me know if a tour is possible. I am sure a visit with you would be a holiday highlight! I met a man in Brunei when was backpacking through Asia in 2001. He was a local interested in giving tours solely out of love for his country. The Lonely Planet guide had short-changed Brunei, suggesting it was a place not worth a visit - this kind man took it upon himself to leave tourists with a positive impression of Brunei regardless of how short their visit to the country. Meeting him for an impromptu tour remains a wonderful memory from my travels.

I am looking forward to hearing from you.

ali2of3: I assume you have read this whole thread and are aware my tour is a sort of barter deal. Please write to me to the address indicated in this thread telling me a little more about yourselves and we'll see what I can do for you.

Hi Avrooster, we shall be in Bs As till the end of this week. Any chance of a tour going on?
Best regards,

I'm sorry, Graziella5b, I just saw your post. I'll reply by e-mail.

I replied to your bellsouth e-mail address.