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-   -   The REAL Buenos Aires (https://www.fodors.com/community/mexico-and-central-america/the-real-buenos-aires-535582/)

raquel_z Nov 14th, 2005 07:35 PM

Just returned from a week in Buenos Aires. I took Alberto’s “The Real Buenos Aires” Tour.

I know there has been some controversy about how REAL it is and about the concept of taking people to see the cartonero train. From my viewpoint, REAL is very subjective. We each have our own realities and in Bs As - a city of 12 million full of diversity there would be 12 million realities… and this is one of them.

Alberto is a gracious host and very knowledgeable. The tour was as described. We met at the Retiro Train Station at 6.30 PM. We probably travelled a bit later than the true rush hour. The train was not all that crowded. As we headed toward Acassuso, Alberto provided us with information about the various barrios we passed through, pointed out places of interest and answered any questions we might have.

In Acassuso, a relatively affluent suburb where Alberto lives, we walked around to get a bit of a feeling for the area. Then we headed back to the station to watch the cartonero train. As pretour reading, Alberto had provided a link to a recent article in La Nacion to give us background about the cartoneros and their situation. We did not stand and gawk at the train and the cartoneros. We watched discreetly on the other side of the track and definitely did not stand there with our cameras snapping pictures. For me, the whole exercise did give me an awareness of one of the realities of Argentina after the economic crisis. I am not about to make any social commentaries on the situation.

We then went for dinner at a local family style parilla called La Porteña. In true Argentinian style, when we arrived at about 8.30 PM the place was almost empty. However by the time we left - after 10.00 PM it was packed. The prices were reasonable and the food abundant and tasty. As promised, we were the only tourists in sight. After dinner, we returned to Bs As by remise.

Alberto was the perfect host. He encouraged us to try things we otherwise may never have. He provided commentaries and opinions. Rather than a tour, I considered the outing a chance to spend time with a Porteño and get off the beaten tourist path. I would like to thank Alberto for taking the time to show us his city and a part of his reality.

Dan who accompanied us on the tour has a far better account of the evening as well as interesting background information in his excellent and insightful blog (the November 8th entry – The Burbs
http://www.saltshaker.net/

Muchissimas Gracias Don Alberto!!!!!

Raquel

avrooster Nov 15th, 2005 11:57 AM

Thank you, Doña Raquel y saludos a su simpática amiga, whose name escapes me at this time.

SharonG Nov 15th, 2005 12:17 PM

Thanks for your report Raquel. When I return to Buenos Aires for a real visit (not business related), I hope to meet Avrooster in person.

avrooster Nov 15th, 2005 02:37 PM

Thank you, SharonG!

As you well know, after our little misunderstanding in your initial Buenos Aires post, I posted several peace offerings, which I hoped would be accepted.

Come to BA soon, with LOTS of time to spare.

SharonG Nov 15th, 2005 06:20 PM

Avrooster, no problem. All is forgotten in the afterglow of a wonderful trip to Buenos Aires.

PAPAJAS Nov 17th, 2005 11:02 AM

We just returned from Baires and took Albertos tour. We enjoyed a lot. The previous description is
as good a job descirbing as I could, probably better. My wife and I would just tell you what a gracious and convivial host he and wife are. He was
extraordinarily giving and helpful. I recommend the tour just to meet this fine fellow.

chriss_hk Nov 18th, 2005 05:47 AM

I have just returned from BA where I was priviledged to spend time with Alberto and take his "Real BA" tour.

Alberto is a kind and gracious host, who went out of his way to make my time in BA as enjoyable as possible.

Of course, the "highlight" (or should that be "lowlight" ??) was the excursion to see the cartoneros train.

The train trip out of BA was not as crowded, nor did it feel as dangerous as I had imagined. But it was certainly filled with numerous commuters who spend a couple of hours each day travelling from their suburbs to central BA to work.

We alighted the train at a station north of BA and waited for the cartoneros train to come through. Although there weren't many people on the train we saw, it was still a moving experience to see the conditions in which these people travel. A metal train, with metal bars across the open windows and locked, metal doors. It reminded me of the kinds of trains that carry cattle or other farm animals. And what would happen in an accident, or fire, I have no idea as people wouldn't be able to escape the carriages.

I would highly recommend Alberto's tour to anyone who wants to add to their BA experience and find out more information about the realities of life in Argentina after the recent political and economic crisis.

january56 Nov 19th, 2005 08:06 AM

Dear Avrooster,

I have read the posts about your wonderful "real Buenos Aires" tour and am wondering if you might be able to give a tour on Thursday, 24 November? It would be for two people from Washington, DC. We have been to Buenos Aires before, and we love your fascinating city, but have never visited a "real" neighborhood. I am very interested in seeing a supermarket in particular, as well as the other things you have described. If you might be able to give a tour on 24 November -- I apologize for asking so close to the date -- I will email you at the address I have seen on this forum. Many thanks! Marie

avrooster Nov 19th, 2005 08:45 AM

Hi, Marie!

You can write to my e-mail address indicated in several posts above, but Nov. 24 is not available.

Tell me a little more about yourselves and that kind of thing, if you feel like it.

Your travel dates, where you will be staying, the phone number of your hotel, etc. would also be useful, in case something suddenly opens up.

At his time the only PROBABLY available date is Nov. 22.

Have a good trip and a great time in our town.

avrooster Jan 20th, 2006 01:39 PM

To the top for Muriel

SUSSnyc Jan 26th, 2006 03:22 PM

You can run, but you cannot hide.

avrooster Jan 26th, 2006 04:44 PM

Nobody's hiding. I post here with serious info and fool around with my friends on TA. Did you read my threads here?

SUSSnyc Jan 26th, 2006 05:05 PM

Yes, AV.....

I simply wanted others to know one of your friends from TA found you.....

in a playful way.

Tio Pepe

avrooster Jan 27th, 2006 01:13 AM

Tío Pepe: For some fun with my serious contributions here, I suggest a thread titled "BA..please help with name of shop"

altheperson Jan 31st, 2006 12:22 PM

I am leaving for Buenos Aires on 2/3 arriving 2/4. I might be interested in your tour. I would also like to find a hotel for about 30 bucks in Recoleta or Palermo Vieja.

I have 7 days, then on to Chile which I am not hearing good things about. I speak Spanish. I am interested more in meeting Argentinians or other travelers than anything else.

How do I contact you once I am in BA.

Thanks

John

avrooster Jan 31st, 2006 12:51 PM

You can write to me at the e-mail indicated in several of the above posts, but I'm afraid I am leaving for our South on holiday. Maybe on some other trip.

Have a great time in our country.

pdx_princess Feb 3rd, 2006 12:23 PM

Very intiguing (especially as a photographer), but I'm a little cautious...has anyone taken you up on this offer?

avrooster Feb 3rd, 2006 12:56 PM

Princess: Have you gone to the trouble of reading the whole thread?

You may also find some comments about this on the tripadvisor.com Argentina forum.

HuberaSanti Feb 4th, 2006 06:30 PM

AV - reading the string I know that you are planning to be on vacation during February. Will you be back in town during the week of March 12 to 19?
Thanks.

claydine Feb 4th, 2006 07:32 PM

My husband and I will be in BA on March 17 to the 20th and would like to take you up on your offer - please reply if you will be offering this tour and also will be happy to return the favour if you come to Canada.
[email protected]


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