San Miguel de Allende -- just getting started
 

I seem to have lost my wanderlust for travelling in Europe (hopefully temporarily) so now we're thinking about San Miguel de Allende. Everyone I know who's been there has glowing reviews and we've never been to Mexico, so I'm quite excited about this.
I just have a couple of questions to start with more to come later, I'm sure.
First of all, we're thinking of April or May. Is that a good time of year for SMA?
Is two weeks too long? (I generally think one week is too short to travel anywhere.)
And finally, for now anyway, are there good day trips from SMA that can be done without a car?
Many thanks in advance.

You have several experts here on that part of Mexico, to which I can't contribute.

But think about spending even more time and going to Mexico City!! There are some good recent trip reports you can peruse.

I use Weatherspark for trip planning. A quick glance is that April is better than May, and early May is better than late May.

I actually live in San Miguel. The town has its fans & detractors. Mlgb made a good suggestion, about including time in Mexico City if possible. But I think 2 weeks in San Miguel is too much. I think a better itinerary, instead of the entire 2 weeks in SMA and doing day trips, would be to spend some nights in Queretaro & Guanajuato. But both can easily be visited from SMA. That said, April & May weather-wise, are probably the 2 worst months to visit. It's hot, dry & dusty. Some restaurants & businesses close for a time in May to remodel, clean, do maintenance etc as it is the low season. May this year was exceptionally hot with mid to high 90's most days. More typical temps now, but even last year the hot season lasted through much of July. Going forward, if you decide on the area, there are lots of excellent day trips to do from the 3 cities I mentioned.

We spent a week in SMdeA as part of a three month trip around Mexico. I thought a week was too long. Nothing inherently wrong with the places, in many respects it was very charming. It just didn't gel with me, perhaps because I found it a little to ex-pat orientated. By contrast we spent 4 days in Guanajuato , as mentioned by baldone above. (Indeed I am pretty sure it was at his suggestion). We loved it and wished we had had longer. a really fun place. some photos from our time there @ https://accidentalnomads.com/2018/11/29/guanajuato/

Baldone - the reason I came here tonight was to ask my own question re San Miguel. Our twenty something nieces are coming to Mexico in October. I have already suggested Guanajuato to them. Do you think they would enjoy San Miguel for a few days?

Bang-on advice above. I was hoping that locals like Baldone might respond for you, GTG!
And did not Tony Cohan, the author of 'On Mexican Time' live in SMA?
He seemed like the Peter Mayles of Mexico.

I am don. the mariachi des cobres

You know, I think they would. Sma gets lots of 20-somethings from Queretaro & Mexico city, so it's not just us blue-haired (or no-haired) expats. Some really cool rooftop bars, lots of live music. They might enjoy one of the hot springs out by Atotonilco.

I think he moved. To guanajuato I believe. Coincidentally, on our first visit to San Miguel I think in the early 2000's, I just happened to find his book in the airport book store. We knew very little about San miguel at the time. A couple of years ago I found OMT in the book exchange at our mailbox service. I read it again probably 20 years later? From the 2nd read, I thought I recognized some of the places he described, so out of curiosity I emailed him and he confirmed what I thought. Seemed like a nice chap.

Dagnabit! So much for that plan!
OK, if not April or May, when would be my best time to go? I can't go January to March, you say no to April/May and I suspect June, July and August would be too hot. So what about September, October or November?
I'm surprised to hear that two weeks (or even just one!) would be too long in SMA. We're slow travellers. We like to wake up in a leisurely way and not pack too much into a day although we do like to go out in the evening and rooftop bars and live music suit us just fine.
What do you think about one week in SMA and one in Guanajuato. Also, is it very hilly? Walking doesn't seem to be my best thing lately.

Thanks baldone. I will pass that on to them.
Goddesstogo. We two are very slow travellers. Our last trip to Mexico was for three months and we often spent a week in each place. That was from October to December and we felt the weather was pretty much perfect. Baldone has covered the SMdeA bar and music scene and I recall being quite impressed with the music in one blues bar. Guanjuato is even more fun I would say, - strolling minstrels and mariachi bands in the street make it very much the party place but in a nice relaxed way. Other places we really enjoyed and stayed a while were Morelia, Patzcuaro and Zacatecas (though I believe Zacatecas may be off limits due to cartel activity. Especially loved Oaxaca where we are returning in October and may be worth considering ( and it is pretty flat!). I think we had around ten days there and that certainly flew by.

As for hill, yes , I recall both places being quite hilly but not overly so. Both seemed quite walkable towns

Hi Goddesstogo—

i recollect that San Miguel de Allende was hilly, at least seemed so compared to the Centro of Queretaro. I’m remembering some hills around the main plaza being steepish. Guanajuato is steeper.

I spent a month in nearby Queretaro in the summer of 2015 and 2016 studying Spanish at an institute there in June & July. And the weather I found preferable to that of say mid Atlantic USA in summer with pleasantly cool evenings thanks to the altitude. Before going, I was nearly spooked by talk of rainy season and yes there was rain, but wasn’t all the time. I was there for a purpose plus the courses offered a social element and consequently my time there did not seem too long; maybe some course (not necessarily language) in SMdA if that interests you might make lingering more appealing?

i hope you do end up going as the Bajío is really a magical area of the continent.

best wishes. Daniel

Actually, July & August are great months to visit. It's the rainy season so everything has greened up nicely and temps are pleasant. Historically, figure on high 70's or low 80's for highs. Sma sits at 6500 ft asl. Take a look at current weather conditions on the app of your choice. July & August is the summer 'high' season as folks from Texas are in town to escape the heat & humidity back home. It's my favorite time of year; last summer looks like it was an anomaly.
It sounds like for you, 2 weeks may not be too long. I can think of a good number of day trips from San Miguel to keep you busy but not wear you out. I can elaborate later. Poor internet right now.
This is just my opinion, but if you were to split up the trip between 2 cities, I'd opt for Queretaro over Guanajuato. Queretaro has the largest historic center in the country apart from Mexico city. And it's flat, whereas Guanajuato's isn't. Although much of Guanajuato's center is fairly walkable, but the little alleys are anything but. More to come later.

Thanks to all of you - - this has been so helpful! We've always liked to travel in October so maybe that's the right time for us to go. Now I'm considering either just going for a week to SMA or a week there and a second week in one of the other cities you've suggested with a couple of day trips tacked on.
More questions to come as soon as I do a little more research but this is a great start!

I think a week is great for slow travel. And I loved a day trip to Dolores Hidalgo. It's famous for ice cream but even more famous for lovers or ranchera music, for it is home not only to the Museum in the birthplace of Jose Alfredo Jimenez, a diety to some......and his gravesite which is something to see. And lots of inexpensive ceramics.....nice town, lovely main square......

I remember a nice walk we took along the road from town on the highway to Celaya..thre was a nice organid market (yes, mainly expats but really good!) and someem fabulous carnitas in the garage of a private house in a residential area just off that highway. Carnitas Bautista....fantastic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...859c457cab.jpg
Grage of residential area on road to Celaya, outside San Miguel de Allende
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e884a68bb.jpg
Ay, que rico!!!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70026f9f26.jpg
Lo mejor!!!!!!!!!



And some great ceramic stores along the route, too.

There's a great botanical garden, too.

Maybe Celaya, but recent events may have limit4 its appeal to visitors, not sure. Oh but they make a great sweet there.....is it cajetat, Baldone???? Be still my heart!

Yes to Guanajuato....

Same trip we went to Morelia and to the monarch sanctuary......imagine,, yours truly was interviewed for a feature on Mexican tv about tourists visiting the reserve!!!!! (Listen, I take my thrills where I can get them..)

What a good trip we had!!!! It's abominable that I have not been to Mexico since before the month before the start of Covid, and that was just to Merida.....
Such a wonderful country, such lovely people.....very easy to travel alone as solo female..

Thanks so much, ekscrunchy. Lots of good information there and pictures to boot!
Is Delores Hidalgo (sounds like a nightclub singer in a an old black-and-white detective flick) a day trip from SMA? And what are the 'recent events' in Celeya?

You MUST buy the cajeta de Celaya.........smear it one toast for breakfast....I think it's made from goat milk in Celaya, not like the cow milk they use in Argentina...not sure, however.
There is also a very famous old-fashioned candy store in Celaya....worth a visit.


There is come cartel activity there but I am not sure that, as a tourist, I would worry about that. A well respected local journalist, with police bodyguards, was killed yesterday...again....not anything the average tourist would encounter.

I can NOT tell my SO that! Just something to keep to myself.
I will however let him know about the cajeta and the candy store!

Eks, coincidentally I was digging up a TR for GtG that I did a couple of years back that included Celaya. The link:
https://www.fodors.com/community/mex...trips-1697847/
GtG, I've got a few more day trip thoughts from & around SMA if that's OK.

Sure, baldone, I'd be happy to have the information.
By the way, I only figured out your screen name when you mentioned hair/baldness upthread. Until the lightbulb went on, I thought you must be Italian -- Bal-don-ay -- and I still can't get that name out of my head. You're always going to be Bal-don-ay to me!

Here's some easy day trips to research from SMA.
Dolores Hidalgo. Where the 'grito', the call for Mexican independence took place. The city Plaza has multiple ice cream vendors all offering exotic flavors such as avocado, beer, tequila, cajeta, etc. Also is known for its take on talavera pottery. The bus station is a short walk to the Plaza. Nice Italian restaurant, D'Monica, just steps away from the Plaza. At one time in the early TA days, it was rated as the best restaurant in Mexico. While it is good, it won't fit the current algorithm of how TA figures such things. But still the best in Dolores. Eks touched on Dolores too.
One of San Miguel's hot springs. There are I think 5 or 6. We've been to 3, La Gruta, Escondido Place & the Mayan Baths. The latter is quite luxurious, and typically requires reservations for their sunset buffet. More expensive than the others.
Atotonilco. The Santuario there is called the 'Sistine Chapel of Mexico' due to its extensive artwork & frescoes. While in Atotonilco, be sure to visit Mama Mia's Campestre, a lovely restaurant set outdoors under the trees by their pond and among their herb gardens. There they brew their own craft beers. Pizza, pasta, steaks, salads.
Wineries. There probably 7-8 different taxiable wineries in the immediate San Miguel area. Viñedos San Lucas has a nice restaurant, as does Santísima Trinidad on the way to Dolores.
Archeological site. Cañada de La Virgen is small, but well restored. Just south of town.
Not really a day trip, but lunch or dinner at Rojo Vivo is nice. It's in an old 18 century hacienda just outside of town. Best burgers in San Miguel. Darn good margaritas too.
Queretaro has the 'ruta de queso y vino' (wine & cheese route) but San Miguel's wineries are easier to get to w/o a car. There is an archeological site in the urban area, El Pueblito. Tequisquiapan is a good day trip too. You could visit both Tequisquiapan & Bernal as a day trip, but it'd be a long day. Again, not a day trip, but the Cervecería Hercules is a cool place. Microbrewery set in an old still semi-functioning textile mill out by where the acueducto begins.

This is brilliant information -- thank you!
I'm keeping all of it in my SMA file. If you don't see me here for a while, it's not that I've forgotten or abandoned the trip but we'll be going in fall of 2025 so I've got a good bit of time for planning.
Here's an important question though. I know I can't count on flights this early (or even airlines, for that matter) but if I'm flying from Toronto, do you think I can get a direct flight to Mexico City? Or is there a closer international airport? And how do I get from wherever I land to SMA?

Both Querétaro & Leon have international airports, QRO & BJX respectively. BJX is probably busier. Both are a little over an hour from San Miguel. When we've flown, typically we use Bajiogo shuttle service. $30 USD p/p shared van from either airport. They also can pick you up at MEX, but of course it'd be more expensive, I wanna say in the $90-$100 USD range. A bit more cumbersome is taking a bus directly from the airport to Queretaro, then taxi or Uber from there to SMA. Airport buses don't go all the way to SMA. Another option would be taxi to the Mexico City Norte bus station then a bus to San Miguel. Primera Plus & ETN serve that route. We've done the latter but usually spend at least 1 night in cdmx as it makes for a long travel day otherwise.

Thanks very much, Baldone

I appreciate this thread.

My husband and I booked tickets to visit San Miguel de Allende March 12th through the 18th.

I would love restaurant recommendations.

We are tentatively staying at the Hotel Matilda.

Which hot springs for a day trip?

For hot springs, probably La Gruta & Escondido Place are the 2 most popular. We've been to both, they're very similar. Mayan Baths, as mentioned is quite luxurious but I'm unsure of their hours for the public. Friends treated us to an evening there. Xote is more kid-oriented with water slides and such. Taboada has a hotel on site.
As far as restaurant recs, I'm a little intimidated to offer suggestions because if you're staying at Matilda, then the on site restaurant Moxi is pretty well regarded but out of our budget so we've never dined there. But I'll offer some of our faves. Los Milagros Terraza has the best view in town for sunsets and the molcajetes are amazing. Hecho en Mexico is good for lunch. La Parroquia is good for breakfast. Lavanda too but there's almost always a line. Pueblo Viejo has jicama tacos, but they're not on the downstairs menu so you have to ask. They are on their rooftop menu at La Azotea. Half price margaritas Monday-Thursdays non-holiday weeks.

Thanks so much! I appreciate the suggestions! We like all types of food.

We had some Marriott points to use and the Matilda qualified. It looks nice!

Kueriff, you don't say if you've ever been to San Miguel. The Matilda is in an excellent location. And for your dates, the jacarandas should be in bloom. About 2 blocks from Matilda is the Rosewood Hotel, an amazing property with a nice rooftop bar that has amazing views of the surrounding jacarandas. Another thing about San miguel is that there are no street food vendors during lunch in or around the jardin. But next to the aforementioned Rosewood there are usually 3 or 4 carts selling street food during the lunch hours. Elsewhere the street food vendors are out in the evening, near, but not in, the jardin.

We’ve never been to Mexico! Well, when I was ten we walked over the border to Tijuana. So this is all new. A friend from high school has done several bike trips through Mexico and his most recent photos inspired this trip. That and it worked with air miles, too. Plus no time change for us, and that sounds so great! We’ve been going to Europe in March and that’s a seven or eight hour change.

K, it might not be the worst idea to start your own thread to get input from other Fodorites. Even though we live in San Miguel, our tastes as residents may not align with those of visitors. We tend to stick to our old favorite restaurants, rather than try the new & trendy. Often, we simply choose a place where we can easily park our car. I will add this, you'll want to do at least day trip to Guanajuato during your stay. Or even a night or 2 before or after if your arrival is to BJX (Leon) should your budget/time allow. Speaking of time zone change, Mexico no longer observes daylight savings time except in border states.

This is a great thread with lots of advice on SMA!
goddesstogo: we are also planning a trip from Toronto . We are going to be flying to CDMX and then hopefully squeezing in either SMA or Oaxaca afterwards before ending with a few days at a beach for the kiddos to relax.

BaldOne : Any advice on whether to choose Oaxaca as a city to visit or SMA ? Would one be easier to get to from CDMX ? We have three teenagers in tow but we all like great restaurants / history etc. Also, we want to end with a few beach days at an all inclusive but I am seeing that it is doable with either city.

I suppose San Miguel is easier to get to, about 4 hours by bus whereas Oaxaca is more like 7 if I recall. Both cities have their attractions. Many people like to combine a visit to Puebla on the way to Oaxaca. Oaxaca of course has nearby archeological sites, while San Miguel is close to Guanajuato & Queretaro for day trips. Oaxaca's airport is just outside town, whereas the closest airports to San Miguel are over an hour away. I mention that thinking you may fly to your beach destination.

I think the next best thing for me to do is get a map out and look at Mexico! We've never been to Mexico either so all this is new to us.
Baldone, if any of your old favourite restaurants is anywhere near the hotel areas I'd love to hear about them. We're not foodies so new and trendy isn't that important to us but we do enjoy good food and have found our most fun experiences to be in local restaurants. Plus we don't mind taking a walk or a cab ride to get somewhere recommended.
Nadak, when is your trip? And do you live in Toronto or are you just flying from here?

Goddesstogo : we are planning a trip down for March break. We live in Toronto and are looking for best flight options currently. Our plan was to do about 5-6 nights in CDMX , 2-3 nights in either SMA or Oaxaca and then flying to a beach resort for about 4 nights at the end .

That sounds wonderful, nadak. Please write a trip report when you get back. I might just duplicate it for us next fall!

Great thread! We’re considering a 2-3 week trip in February or March and very interested in SMA, Guanajuato and the region. So far, Guanajuato really appeals but I don’t know that I’d want to stay for more than a week in the city. Which city would be a nice complement? Would SMA be a good contrast?

I’m looking at flying in and out of Leon as the timings are better than in or out of Queretero.

progol, lots of options, all of them good. I'll put a few suggestions out there.
I agree that a full week in Guanajuato might be too much, even with a day trip to León for leather shopping. With 2-3 weeks you'd be able to move around a bit and not be too rushed. The Bajío is a region rich in Mexico's history. I do tend to think San Miguel offers a good contrast to Guanajuato. Guanajuato has better museums, unique visually, built in the valley, while San Miguel has better restaurants & shopping, plus the nearby hot springs and the santuario de Atotonilco, the 'sistene chapel of Mexico'. Guanajuato is a university town, thus has the vibe of a younger crowd, while San Miguel has its older ex-pat crowd but at the same time it's popular with weekenders from CDMX, both young & old. I could envision a 2 week trip including Guanajuato, San Miguel & Queretaro, a classic itinerary. Day trips from Guanajuato could be Leon, as mentioned. From San Miguel, besides hot springs & Atotonilco, might include Dolores Hidalgo & Pozos. From Queretaro, Bernal & Tequisquiapan. If you wanted to add another city, San Luis Potosí might be an option. It has a beautiful Centro Histórico & some good museums. Few foreign tourists. Not a long bus ride back to León for the return trip. I don't know if any of this is helpful or if it even fits your travel style.

Another good alternative to the aforementioned, would be Morelia, Patzcuaro & surrounds.

Hey GtG. I forgot about your post here until progol bumped the thread. My bad. With some exceptions, the majority of San Miguel's hotels are within walking distance to restaurants & coffee shops and the like. Hotel location kinda depends on budget & travel style. The closer the hotel to the jardin, the more expensive, generally.
There was a time that I had a bucket list to try every restaurant on Trip Advisor. That never happened, lol. Lots of turnover as you can imagine, and the pandemic changed things even more. But some long time faves (besides what I mentioned earlier) are Hecho En México, (lunch, dinner) La Parroquia (breakfast), Media Naranja (lunch, breakfast), El Correo (lunch), Posadita (lunch, dinner, views), Grandpa & Son (burgers in the Fabrica Aurora), Gombo's (pizza), Don Taco Tequila, (vegan, but yummy, try a Sotol margarita) Milagros Centro location, Victoria's (pozole), Mario's (seafood/shrimp), Allende tap room & Mama Mia's (craft beer), El Tucan (hole in the wall for flautas), Denver's Los Olivos (Italian). That's only scratching the surface, but all are places we never hesitate to return to. Ymmv. ¡Provecho!

Many thanks, baldone! We’ve been going back and forth for a while on what and where to go. After searching for flights in and out of both Guanajuato and Queretaro, I couldn’t find flights that worked for us - but I now have good-priced flights in and out of Mexico City and will either fly or shuttle to where we stay.

That will give us 2 1/2 weeks for our trip. Since we’re really looking for no more than 2 bases, we’re considering half the time in SMA and half the time in GTO. I have an old college friend who lives in GTO and she loves it. I’m interested in Morelia and Patzcuaro but we’d prefer not to be traveling a lot and would like the trip to be easy and relaxed so I think SMA and GTO might work well.

And just to update this - we’re doing 9 days in SMA and 9 days in GTO in February/March and we want slooooow travel so this fits the bill! I’ve got this bookmarked for all the restaurants and sites/sights mentioned. We’re definitely low’-keyed in our food interests so any small, local places are great. Any additional recommendations for favorite local activities in either location? I’ve got the SMA calendar saved.

I have reservations at Casa Calderoni and Casa Zuñiga so our accommodations are set.

We’re looking forward to our relaxed visit to these 2 cities!

Progol, you've picked 2 great properties for your stays; well done. Zúñiga is our go-to place when in Guanajuato. Rick (Zúñiga) is a wonderful & knowledgeable host, and Carmen a great cook. Eclectic place above the fray in Centro. Calderoni too has an excellent location in SMA's Centro. Quiet street away from the noise nearer the jardin. I've met Ben a number of times over the years. And right across the street is Jaques, an excellent restaurant for breakfast or lunch. No doubt you'll discover it.
Since you'll be in sma in February, that's when La Candelaria kicks off. SMA celebrates it as a feria, which lasts most of the month, with some activities to open the event. Mostly, it's when vendors set up in Parque Juárez to sell plants & other greenery. Not much for tourists to buy, but it's kind of fun just to wander through the park.
Also near Casa Calderóni is the Mercado de Artesenias. It extends from Hidalgo st up to the Ignacio Ramirez mercado. About 4 blocks or so of shopping. Lots of tourist souvenir type stuff, including goods from Oaxaca & hand crafted stuff by local Nauhatl speaking vendors. The silver jewelry sold there is the real stuff from Taxco, mostly by the Nauhatl sellers. I've known a number of the silver vendors there for years and never hesitate to buy their goods.
It sounds like you'd be a street food fan? I think I mentioned up-thread that there's not much street food in the jardin area during the day. But near enough to Casa Calderóni and across the street from the Fabrica Aurora is a taco cart that has lunch hours. And in the evenings, in front of the library, (about 2 blocks from you) is a popular taco cart.
Tuesdays has the Tianguis, or Tuesday market. Lots of good food stalls. The market is football field size (or bigger) and has almost a carnival type atmosphere. Tools, clothes, blender parts, furniture, used cars, fruits, vegetables, pirated DVDs & miracle natural cures on sale. Take the bus to "placita" (little plaza) and follow the crowds. One of the main bus stops in Centro is about a block & a half from CC, across from Templo del Oratorio. Watch your pocketbook in the Mercado.
The Ignacio Ramírez market has good stalls as well, but the Tuesday market has more and I think is better. There other local market is the San Juan De Dios, walkable from your lodging as well, and bigger than Igancio Ramirez.
Lastly, for cheaper & more modest eats (than in Centro), the road heading south out of town (Salida a Celaya) is a veritable restaurant row. Many places lack ambiance due to proximity to a busy (but slow) street, but worth a look.