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Whirlwind birthday trip - 4 days in London
Got home a week ago tonight after a really quick trip to London. Left home mid-day Tuesday, landed at LHR mid-day Wed. and flew back out mid-day Sunday. Had the best time for three days - one day . . . not so much :( But the good days were really really good.
Was going to be pretty much running full speed Thurs/Fri/Sat with 15 or 16 planned and/or pre-booked events -- but what the hey -- I can always sleep when I'm home ;) The main highlights were to be in no particular order: Staying at The Savoy; Ian McKellen and Roger Allam (of Endeavor and Game of Thrones fame) in Frank & Percy; the Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto and Diva exhibitions at the V&A; Dinner in the River Restaurant by Gordon Ramsay; Frans Hals at the National Gallery; Hockney - Drawing from Life at the National Portrait Gallery; Dinner in the Portrait Restaurant; a mini GTG in the American Bar; Operation Mincemeat - plus another play, a couple of other exhibitions and assorted meals and shopping. It's sort of become a habit being in London for my birthday and when I read that Ian McKellen's very last stage performance* was to be on my actual birthday 2 Dec . . . well that sealed the deal. Actually booked the Frank & Percy ticket before flights, or hotel or anything else. * The actual last LAST performance was supposed to be the Dec 3 Sunday matinee but Sat. night was the last evening performance. Then about 6 weeks ago the run was extended two weeks through Dec 17. But don't bet the farm -- I saw what was supposed to be his swan song, absolute last live performance, one man show back in Dec '19. I swear he's like the Rolling Stones -- ;) It may take me 4 or 5 days to post the full TR . . . Longer than the trip itself :) . . . will have lots of photos of the Chanel exhibition once I resize them so they'll post. Next: November 28-29. SMF > PHX > LHR, The Savoy, totally unexpected/wonderful surprise from a Fodorite, mini GTG |
Ooo the Savoy. My dream. I really thought about it for Jan when it is cheapest (but still about $700 a night) but going to Budapest in Feb instead. Maybe in 2035. Love London but better get to other places I haven’t been can’t wait for your report
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on for the ride
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Count me in! 🎂🎂🎂🛫
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That sounds like a wonderful birthday trip. I think you also live in Calif so I’m in awe of your ability to do that with a quick turnaround. Our last trip in May was hard going and coming back!
I love London and sounds like you did all the kinds of things I love about it- plays, museums and the V&A (and great restaurants). |
I'm exhausted just reading the thread title. The thought of such a sort trip makes me wince. I just don't have the energy, but I look forward to reading how you coped:).
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janisj,
You really, really, really know how to celebrate a birthday in grand style! I eagerly look forward to hear the rest! |
I've been waiting for this since, I knew you were going in November. You have a lot more energy than I have, but really looking forward to this!
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Thanks everyone. Flying from the West Coast transatlantic can be really tough but flying in the pointy end of the plane does help a bit. I actually arrive pretty much jet lag-free
November 28-29. SMF > PHX > LHR, The Savoy, totally unexpected/wonderful surprise from a Fodorite, mini GTG Once again I used AAVacations to save a boat load of $$$/£££ and make the Savoy doable. The hotel was on my Bucket List for years and I was able to stay there in Dec '21. (TR here: https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...ondon-1703704/ ). So while no longer on the 'bucket list', that visit was just as the UK was reopening mid-covid and it really wasn't the full 'Savoy experience' -- neither the American Bar or the River Restaurant were open, plus there was lots of testing/re-testing/travel rule changes happening daily. So after booking Frank & Percy I set about looking for flights/hotel. Airfares were bloody ASTRONOMICAL - even in Coach. Even being a bit flexible with actual travel dates a few dats either of Sat Dec 2 - Premium Economy was running not far short of $3000 and Business was off the charts!!!! And for a decent schedule with no 0'dark-thirty flights and/or 2 stops --- way way off the charts - like close to $9000.. But using AAVactions I was able to book Business flights Nov 28 / Dec 3 with very good schedules plus three nights at the Savoy for $4736 total. Of that I paid 150,000 miles and only $2647 real money out of pocket. (I didn't use all miles because I still need to earn some loyalty points to maintain platinum status for next year) Since for my nights the 'basic' Superior Queen I booked was running about £695 ($875) a night this would have been a huge bargain even if paying all cash. And instead of a 0600 flight out of SMF with two changes and early AM arrival at LHR - I got 1:00 PM out of SMF to PHX, 3 hours on the ground and a 12:10 arrival at LHR. My return flights on the 3rd were 1:30 out of LHR, 5PM arrival at LAX, 3 hours on the ground and 9:15PM arrival back at SMF. All totally civilized times and connections. Flights were great and arrived a few minutes early. With no checked luggage and the E-gates actually working I was through into the Arrivals hall less than 15 minutes after the door of the plane opened. Went to the AA Arrival Lounge in T-3 took a quick shower and had tea/OJ/a couple of Pastries. Topped up my OysterCard (had about £7 balance from my last trip in May so only added £10) and took the Piccadilly Line to Hammersmith, changed to the District Line to Embankment and from there its about a 5 minute walk to the hotel. My room was close to ready so I left my bag with the Bell Captain and went into the residents Reading room for a few minutes. Only about 10 minutes later they took me up to the upgraded Deluxe King (!) - no river view but a really lovely room. 10 minutes lated my bag arrived . . . and 10 minutes after that my doorbell rang and there was a staffer delivering a beautiful poinsettia and birthday card . . . no, not from the hotel - from a fellow Fodorite who had checked out that very morning. I had exchanged a few PM's with them with some suggestions for their time in London. So this was a combo B'day and thank you gesture. It was a HUGE surprise and so thoughtfull. Really cheered up my room and got me in the Christmas spirit. Had a mini GTG set for 5:30 in the American Bar -- kmowatt and mrs kmowatt were in London before leaving for Vienna for a few days and the 29th was the only day that we overlapped. I feared maybe a little of jet lag but not a bit of it. In the end, mrs kmowatt had plans with her father so it was just the two of us. Had champagne/wine/cocktails/nibbles and a lovely chat. After kmowatt left I went up t my room to figure out what/if I wanted dinner. Ended up walking through Covent Garden, watching a few of the buskers, got some roasted chestnuts and mulled wine - then went back to the hotel and ordered a small pizza for a late-ish Dinner. No jet lag and slept like a baby. A few photos to follow Next: Thurs Nov. 30 -- Tate Britain, a new Roman Wall museum and Operation Mincemeat. |
On board PHX > LHR
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3993f32fce.jpg Starter - paprika lemon chicken/hummus/shaved asparagus + salad with sundried tomatoes and feta https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec6021d529.jpg Miso seabass, mash, savoy cabbage, baby carrots Tasted a lot better than it looked https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6dda67a7b.jpg Totally full from the evening before so just had the fruit plate breakfast https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...043449ebb5.jpg Very similar to my room in '21 except this has brocaded walls https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7827db426b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0862662465.jpg Bathroom seems identical to '21 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...142a0c376.jpeg What a lovely surprise! |
Belated Happy Birthday. The card and poinsettia was such a nice gesture.
Love Roger Allam! I always enjoy your trip reports and look forward to reading more. |
Janis does it right! Looking forward to following
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Great to see you again Janis and the American Bar was a fun venue!!
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(sigh!) What a pro you are! Someday, I'll splurge on the Savoy or Brown's. But I think I'll need to rent-the-runway to go along with my stay.
Along for the ride! Always enjoy your posts. |
Thurs Nov. 30 -- Tate Britain, a new Roman Wall museum and Operation Mincemeat.
In my room are a kettle, tea/coffee plus a complimentary fridge with milk, OJ, still and sparkling water, soft drinks - no food but anything one might want to drink. So this morning breakfast was the last 3 slices of room service pizza, orange juice and tea - and a mighty fine b'fast it was. Took a long relaxing bubble bath and really had no hint of jet lag. Took the tube over to Pimlico and for Tate Britain - mainly for the general displays . Mostly for the Turners and my regular visit with Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose, but maybe also Women in Revolt! Art and Activism in the UK 1970-1990. After exploring several of the galleries, made my way down to the Women in Revolt (being a member I didn't have to book - which also means I don't have any guilt for not sticking it out ;) ) The exhibit is truly enormous and I went through the first few rooms - not sure why but it just wasn't resonating with me. Reviews in the Guardian were ecstatic but in some other outlets - not so much There were some really thought provoking and humorous objects but also a lot of really weird 'stuff'. I do think it would have been a better fit at Tate Modern. My guess is I saw maybe 30+% of the full exhibit and that alone took close to an hour. I honestly don't think one could take it all in with just one visit. I bailed and headed up to the Members Room for lunch and deciding if I wanted to hit Women in Revolt again. Had a yummy carrot and coriander soup, a turkey/brie sandwich, tea and Prosecco. Decided I'd had enough of angry women so headed back to Victoria to catch the Circle Line to Aldgate. I'd pre-booked a 2PM ticket for the new Roman City Wall museum. Tickets are free but the website insists pre-booking is essential . . . trust me it ain't. I was the only person in the gallery and the woman at the entrance desk said not to worry - its about the least busy museum in the city. The entrance is maybe a 2 minute walk from Aldgate station so very easy to fit in if visiting the Tower of London or anything else in the general area. Very substantial piece of the Wall and easy to see the construction methods. There is also a video explaining the development of the Roman city, abandonment then growth in medieval times, and re-discovery of the wall. https://citywallvinestreet.org Got back on the tube for 'home' - wasn't hungry but had to eat something since dinner was going to be pretty late. Popped into Gordon's Wine Bar just up the road from Embankment station. Had pork and duck pate, bread, olives and a red wine - just about perfect for the time of day. Went back to the room really just to relax a bit and change shoes - both pairs of shoes were really comfortable but I like to switch between then during the day to ensure I don't get any pressure points / issues. Then out for Covent Garden and Operation Mincemeat at the Fortune theatre. I have a (weird) friend who's only request was I bring him London postcards. Ya know -- postcards really aren't a thing anymore. Wandered through all the stalls in both markets and the only postcards were silly, ugly or practically lewd. Finally found some decent ones in the main market just as the owner was starting to pack up her stall - found five quite nice cards and we chatted a bit -- either she took a shine to me or maybe I looked down at the heels ;) but she put them in a bag and said "on me - no charge". I insisted on paying but she wouldn't hear of it. Walked the short distance to the theatre, collected my pre-paid prosecco and went up to my front row, dress circe seat. Must have been 15 years since I was in the Fortune and I forgot how cramped it is - luckily I am really short so the total lack of leg room isn't and issue but for everyone else - I can imagine total misery. The Play however was absolutely brilliant. Five cast members play eight major gender swapping characters and various and sundry minor bits. It is simply hysterical and the vocal and dance numbers are wonderful. Laughed til it hurt then a poignant epilog at the end honoring Glyndwr Michael, the homeless 'man that never was' had me in tears. Strolled back to the hotel and 'grazed' a late supper in the Beaufort Bar - olives, grilled prawns, a cheese board and a French Wings (vodka, champagne and aperitif de normandie) Up to my room and another wonderful night's sleep. Next: Fri. Dec 1. Hours at the V&A ( Chanel, Diva, lunch and more), Peter Pan Goes Wrong, and the River Restaurant |
Happy Birthday
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:D . . . (those guys look sooo young - but it was almost 45 years ago!)
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Glad you liked Op Mincemeat as much as I did. It was outstanding! I agree about the ending and also when Miss Leggett sang her song too…the audience went very quiet there!! Looking forward to hearing what you thought about Chanel!
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I am looking forward to what you thought of Chanel also. I saw the Dior exhibit there in 2019 I think it was and it was much better. The Chanel exhibit had some beautiful clothes,my favourite was the room with all the suits, but whoever did the lighting for the exhibit should get the sack and what was with the pokey sort of boxes for rooms they had at the beginning where it got very crowded and the lighting was so bad you couldnt really see properly.
Not well executed. |
Originally Posted by raincitygirl
(Post 17517503)
I am looking forward to what you thought of Chanel also. I saw the Dior exhibit there in 2019 I think it was and it was much better. The Chanel exhibit had some beautiful clothes,my favourite was the room with all the suits, but whoever did the lighting for the exhibit should get the sack and what was with the pokey sort of boxes for rooms they had at the beginning where it got very crowded and the lighting was so bad you couldnt really see properly.
Not well executed. I'd rank them as 1) the McQueen - fantabulous over the top terrific great; 2) Dior - pretty darned fantabulous; 3) Chanel close to fantabulous and mostly remarkable for the sheer length of her career and how modern her earliest styles still look today. I couldn't fit the catalogue into my teeny tiny suitcase - but ordered it and should be delivered in a couple of days. Postage actually was more than the price of the book. |
Happy birthday! Sounds like a wonderful trip.
I'd love to see the Frans Hals exhibit. |
And me, I’m waiting for the promised not-so-good day. Love to see how Janisj handles different ‘situations!’
^^^”Had the best time for three days - one day . . . not so much.”^^^ |
Originally Posted by stokebailey
(Post 17517529)
. . . I'd love to see the Frans Hals exhibit.
Originally Posted by nyse
(Post 17517534)
And me, I’m waiting for the promised not-so-good day. Love to see how Janisj handles different ‘situations!’
^^^”Had the best time for three days - one day . . . not so much.”^^^ |
Originally Posted by janisj
(Post 17517535)
Me too :(
Have to wait for Saturday's entry . . . (But I see the forewarning here) |
Dec 1. Hours at the V&A ( Chanel, Diva, lunch and more), Peter Pan Goes Wrong, the River Restaurant, and lots of pre-birthday birthday 'stuff'.
Fri and Sat are the BIG days. Friday is the fanciest and Saturday the busiest. Like my last 5+ visits -- never once opened my umbrella. Only rain was when I was at LHR on Sunday waiting for my flight. So my luck held and today was brilliant sunshine and the warmest dat of all - my guess it was close to 50°F by the time I made it to South Kensington. Had tea and juice in my room and headed out on the tube about 9:15. Stopped for breakfast at the Farm Girl on the pedestrianized Exhibition Rd halfway between S. Kens tube station and the V&A. It was a simple poached eggs, toast, bacon, tea and OJ but really well cooked and the staff was very friendly (Be careful if you stop there -- there is a step directly inside the door - I can imagine there have been a few tumbles. ) I didn't want to get to the V&A until 15 or 20 minutes after it opened - at opening is really the only time there is ever a queue to get in. So my timing was perfect. Made my way to the Chanel exhibition - the Members line was very short and I was inside in just a minute or two. I did describe some of my reaction a few posts ^^^. But I don't want anyone to think I didn't enjoy it. It was really terrific -- just maybe not quite as terrific TERRIFIC as the McQueen a few years ago. The show is partly laid out chronologically - first hats in 1910 then clothing starting from 1913 all the way 1970; and partly by type -- miles and miles of suits in one room, lots of evening gowns in another, jewelry in another, another for perfume/cosmetics. Many photos to follow. I spent more than 1½ hours inside then went to the 'Diva' exhibition. This is much smaller but also fairly crowded - again being a member I didn't need to book ahead. Lots of famous and iconic costumes -- from Sarah Bernhardt to Mary Pickford, to Marilyn Monroe to Cher and Beyonce. Burlesque to famous movies to grand opera to pop stars. it really was quite fun. Then went up to lunch in the Members Room. Because the Chanel exhibition is a total sell out for the run - the only way to get in (except for a few 'day of' tix released early each morning) is to become a member. Therefore -- just like during McQueen and Dior -- the place was absolutely slammed. All these brand new members wanting to squeeze every little bit of benefit they can out of what may be their only ever visit to London/the V&A. The queue to get in (never more than one or two people and usually no one at all) extended all the way back to the elevators -- probably 40+ people. But it did move and eventually I got a table in the lounge area. Had soup & bread, and duck ragout pappardelle plus champagne and tea. Needed a substantial lunch because dinner won't be until very late tonight. Then went up to the furniture galleries, then to silver and jewelry and spent some time in the gift shop before heading back to the hotel to re-group, re-charge and change clothes. My late afternoon consists of the American Bar, Peter Pan, the River Restaurant and shutting down the Beaufort Bar - - - and I'm dressing to the nines! :) A killer Cinq à Sept, way over-the--top embellished blazer and silk trousers - nothin' I'd wear to Applebee's for sure :) Went down to the American Bar and had a cocktail and a few nibbles. Decided it was nice enough out that I'd walk to the Lyceum theatre over on Shaftsbury. Strolled through the Christmas market in Trafalgar Square, bough a bag of roasted chestnuts and arrived at the theatre just as they opened the doors. Had a prosecco and ordered a sparkling water for the interval. Peter Pan Goes Wrong is by the same company as the hysterical The Play That Goes Wrong . . . and it is even funnier, more hysterical with more crazy physical humour. It is absolutely crazy. Magical really. I honestly don't know how they avoid serious injury! Isn't a pantomime as such but definitely filled the panto box in my Christmas traditions. Stumbled out of the theatre still laughing and knew the chance of getting a cab were slim to none. Started the walk back and thought I'd maybe jump in one of those pedal jitneys from Leicester Square . . . uh - no (!) - It's maybe 600-700 yards and he wanted £40. uh - hell no :) - this may be a splurge evening but that is ridiculous. Its a nice evening - the walk will do me good. My booking in the River Restaurant is for 10:45 ad I walked in the door of the Savoy at 10:30. Went briefly up to the room to freshen my makeup/read e-mails etc. and was back downstairs in about 10 mins. Went to the Beaufort Bar (right next door to the restaurant) to ask if I needed to book a table for after dinner -- he said since I'm resident probably not necessary but he'd book me a table for midnight just in case. . . . then in to the beautiful River Restaurant by Gordon Ramsay. Wonderful service and really good food. I had a glass of Champagne and as a starter probably the best scallop dish I've ever tasted. Then for the main I had half a lobster (No- not half a massive Maine lobster -- more like a crayfish on steroids ;) ) with chips and salad. really yummy. Was quite full but wanted a small dessert so ordered two scoops of ice cream/sorbet. I did not tell them it was my birthday (well, it actually wasn't - that is tomorrow) -- but the ice cream came with a chocolate sauce calligraphy Happy Birthday on the plate. Mid dessert, the host of the Beaufort Bar can to the table to ask if I still wanted my table there and I said yes. A few minutes later I walked in and was greeted by name and taken to a banquette booth in the otherwise totally full Beaufort Bar. I ordered a decaf espresso martini (sort of a 2nd dessert). As I was finishing and signaling for my check the waiter came over with two fancy cakes, more chocolate calligraphy, said "It's my birthday too". and said the drink was on the house! I had no cash on me so couldn't even tip him but asked the host his name (he had told me when I was seated but the music was loud enough that I didn't catch what he said). I left an envelope for him with the Bell Staff when checking out the next day. Floated up to my room and once again slept like a baby . . . Next: Sat, Dec. 2 -- the the near perfect last day in London . . . that wasn't :( |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5caf433adc.jpg
the oldest known garment still in existence - 1914 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c04dcd5146.jpg From the '20's - looks like last year https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b27415ae5.jpg Mid-20's https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...446151968c.jpg Early 20's - so modern https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acb57f7160.jpg entirely leather and totally amazing https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efd6713b17.jpg I want!!! - from the early 30's https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d158448ae.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12e070133d.jpg As far as the eye can see . . . https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...534ce33f84.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f72879c513.jpg Detail of above https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a73d892a3f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a4bcf2395.jpg Gorgeous coat - crappy reflections ;) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2472fb2361.jpg Opera capes (there was an identical one in black but getting a photo was just about impossible) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7427649d7d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...051b473df6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0822375dc1.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c48491e0cd.jpg Three icons https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9b28d7a8d.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e5b110353.jpg The very first No. 5 - 1921 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca87d09315.jpg Early ad https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eba57469d9.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b35fb84b9e.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...362cc56af4.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2007aae351.jpg Her own little black dress |
From the Diva exhibition:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...847dd7f46a.jpg Now -- THAT is a corset . . . https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0730a3841.jpg Theda Bara https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e13f7c97a4.jpg Josephine Baker https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fae3a75fd0.jpg Carole Lombard https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c91e62e2d.jpg Leontyne Price https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dab9a5e39b.jpg Margo Channing/Bette Davis from All About Eve https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d499e1d64c.jpg Joan Crawford in Mildred Pierce https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8deaf1dd8.jpg Elizabeth Taylor as Cleo https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce8536b75c.jpg Marilyn Monroe's 'shimmy' dress from Some Like it Hot |
And dinner . . .
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1314ac7d25.jpg Best scallops ever https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab394fd541.jpg Lobster & chips https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f9b9cf9ba.jpg B'day ice cream https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d986b818ca.jpg Beaufort Bar espresso martini https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6de0a05f9.jpg Beaufort Bar version of Happy Birthday |
Hey where’s the pic of you in your Cinq a Sept? I like their clothes but don’t wear trousers except jeans once in awhile.
What a lovely gesture at the Beaufort Bar (I’ve been to the American Bar) it happened to me at my dinner in Zurich- fancy hotel, French restaurant. The calligraphy, the opera cake , even singing waiters in a Michelin star restaurant! |
Loving the report and pictures. The food looks amazing and exactly what I would have ordered.
And as for that beyond stunning Carole Lombard dress ……… |
Sat, Dec. 2 -- the the near perfect last day in London . . . that wasn't :(
Okay -- here is my schedule for Saturday: 8-ish - 9:00-ish - pack 10:00 -11:00 - late breakfast in the River Restaurant 11:00 - Noon-ish final putzing around, check out, leave bag with bell captain, enjoy last visit to the Reading Room 1PM Frans Hals @ the National Gallery 2:30 - 3 PM cocktails @ Ochre in the National Gallery 3:30 - 5:30 PM Hockney and explore the newly remodeled National Portrait Gallery 5:30 - 7 PM Pre-theatre dinner in the Portrait Restaurant 7:30 - 9:45 PM Frank & Percy @ the Other Palace with pre-paid prosecco 10 PM back to hotel to collect bag 10:30 PM Justairports out to LHR 11:30 PM check in to Holiday Inn Express LHR T-4 Phew -- busy but what a great day! Unfortunately what I ended up with was: 8-ish - 9:00-ish - pack 10:00 -10:15- partial breakfast in the River Restaurant 10:15 - 2 PM back in bed - granted late check out til 2PM 2 - 3:30 PM Lounging in the Reading Room 5:30 - 7 PM Pre-theatre dinner in the Portrait Restaurant 7:30 - 9:45 PM Frank & Percy @ the Other Palace with pre-paid prosecco 3:30 PM Justairports out to LHR 5 PM check in to Holiday Inn Express LHR T-4 I slept well, but when I woke up about 6:30 I just didn't feel right -- not covid-ish, not respiratory but my heart seemed to be racing, wasn't nauseous - hard to explain. It almost felt like mega jet lag / no sleep / light headed. I am pretty much healthy as a horse and except for a couple of sinus infections years ago, have never been sick when visiting London. I was thinking - should I go to A&E (emergency room). Slowly felt just a little better so went down to breakfast. Ordered tea, orange juice and an avocado toast with poached eggs. It was a gorgeous presentation -- but two bites in and I knew it was a no go. :( Went back up to my room -- phoned down to the front desk asking for a late check out (its normally noon) - they said they'd check and see what was possible -- phoned back to say they could stretch it til 2PM w/o charge. Called Justairports to see if they could move my booking up to the afternoon -- 3:30 would work but it will cost an extra £15 because it is during the Congestion Charge. I didn't care - if I was going to be unwell, I'd want it to be in the Heathrow hotel room, not hanging around the Savoy public spaces. I went back to bed -- got up a few times with all I can describe is dry heaves -- I still wasn't nauseous though. Very weird. I basically slept til 1:30 PM. Freshened up, went downstairs. I had a great stalls ticket for Frank & Percy (which really was the main reason I was even IN London today 😢 ) and pre paid prosecco -- I'd hate for it to go to waste. I spoke to the Bell captain and along with leaving an envelope for my Beaufort Bar waiter from last night, offered the theatre ticket to any member of staff. They had the perfect person in mind -- and walked with me over to one of the lobby staff (the two guys are likely security but look like high level executives). He was absolutely thrilled. I waited first in the Reading Room -- but it got really crowded so eventually spent the last 20 minutes waiting for Justairports in the lounge seating near the front desk and Boodles (WOW -- I've been in some high end jewelers both in the States and London -- but Boodles had more glitz than most any of them) My heart wasn't really racing much any more, no more throbbing in my ears, and the head spinning had gone away but I still felt off. Driver arrived right on time and took me out to the HIE at LHR. I picked up some snacks in the gift shop - nibbled and went to bed about 7:30PM still feeling ooogggiyy - and wondering how I'd manage on the long haul tomorrow. Luckily it isn't until 1:30 PM so I'd have time to make other plans if I was sick in the morning . . . slept from about 8PM straight through to about 7AM . . . And DAMN DAMN double DAMN -- woke up felling 100% terrific. No head ache, no head spinning, no pulse thumping in my ears . . . nada. Even felt good enough to eat the crappy free HIE breakfast buffet. Truly felt absolutely 100% normal. I'll never know what it was -- delayed jet lag, a 24 hour 'bug' whatever ??? All I know it ruined what could have been a glorious day. I even considered it could have been a hangover -- but don't think that was it. I'd had a fair amount to drink between lunch, the American Bar, the play, dinner, and Beaufort Bar - but it was spread out over nearly twelve hours and all except the Amer. Bar were with food. So I'm positive it wasn't due to over indulging. Took the tube to Terminal 3 and visited the Cathay Pacific Lounge (the best One World Lounge at LHR IMO. Great flight, good food, Flagship Lounge at DFW, decent flight to SMF, and no issue driving home. No holdover issues of any sort . . . I guess it will always be a mystery One last observation -- London was absolutely packed and the Savoy even more so! When I stayed there in Dec '21 the hotel was only about half to 2/3 open - there were no masses of people in the public spaces. The Thames Foyer was busy with afternoon teas, but the Reading Room never had more than 4 or 5 people in it, there was always seating in the lobby, etc. Just a very relaxed/genteel/refined atmosphere . . . Well this time the place is a hive of activity. It is truly great that things have rebounded so well but with all the parties booked, special events, masses of people in every corner of the public rooms -- it was just a bit frenetic. Didn't seem to affect service in anyway - friendly, helpful and efficient in all ways. And none of that affected the bedrooms -- my room could not have been quieter/more comfortable. I hope to stay at the Savoy again some time but i'd re-think visiting over the holiday period - it is just soooooo popular and soooooo busy. |
Wow, sounds great except for the last day. Wonder if it was something you ate? Food poisoning can be tough but over in 24 hours. Our older son’s appendix burst in Paris when he was 16 and he ended up a week in the hospital. It’s scary but he got great care.
I think the V&A is one of my favorite museums anywhere. Seen some great shows-Frieda Kahlo and Balenciaga. |
The pix were astounding! I'm saving up for the Savoy.
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Great report and pictures, but oh man...so sorry to hear about that last day! I remember that when you found out about that show, that is what instigated this trip. I agree, might have been food poisoning, since that can be pretty awful but not long lasting.
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Oh man. So sorry, j! Glad you pulled out of it.
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It's horrible being ill when far from home.
I remember a really bad bout of food poisoning when holidaying in Florida a few years ago. I was convinced I'd end up on a drip in hospital! Really enjoyed reading your trip report. I thought I was organised but you are in another league. You must return to North Yorkshire soon! |
So sorry your trip ended this way ~ I imagined your ‘not so good’ day involving a train delay or an annoying fire alarm, not this day of total misery.
But you handled everything you needed to and still had three wonderful birthday days in London ~ not so shabby ⭐️ |
Thanks everyone -- if I had felt even a teensy bit better I might have considered sticking it out because I really wanted t see the changes at the National Portrait Gallery, eat again at their restaurant -- its always been a favorite but apparently has been elevated both in decor and food under Richard Corrigan. And of course I was really REALLY looking forward to Frank & Percy. But I know I made the right decision. I slept til early afternoon, nodded off a couple of times on the drive out to LHR and then practically slept the clock around at the HIE. So what ever it was that 'cured' me, sleep was involved.
Morgana: I was hoping to do a Borders/Yorkshire/Peak District trip either next May or early Sept with my cousin but she has had a medical crisis and most likely will not be able to travel in future. So I'll have to re-think things. A friend has been dropping hints about going on one of my trips . . . but while she's a lovely lady - I'm sure if we traveled together I'd end up having to kill her ;) So I'm weighing all my options . . . |
What a fabulous TR and food photos are outstanding. Your room looked ever so elegant/sumptuous. I vicariously enjoyed all the activities you were able to pack in. I am impressed by your ability to make your way around the vast city of London so easily. That in itself is a feat.
I totally felt your pain on your final day. Being sick away from home and alone in another country, is frightening to say the least. You handled it so well. I fell sick in Paris on return day to Chicago last month which turned out to be Covid. That was a more than miserable day getting to the airport and then 8 agonizing hours on the plane. I kissed my walls when I finally got home. You made the right decision to forego the day and really fortunate that “sleep cure” worked for whatever reason, allowing a comfortable journey home. Can’t wait to read about your next adventure! |
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