What NOT to see in London
 

Curious what attractions/neighborhoods in London people have found to be either "tourist traps" or just plain not worthwhile. Am planning my first visit in a few weeks and will be there a week. Generally, I like to do a lot of walking around when I visit a city and try to "become" a local for the length of my visit. I try to use my time wisely and don't feel compelled to visit every tourist attraction.

Thoughts on absolute "must-sees" are also appreciated!

thanks!

IMHO, the list of must-not-sees should be topped by the London Dungeon. Madame Tussaud's is a close second in my book, though a lot of people seem to have had fun there.

Not necessary - Kensington Palace

Necessary - Tower of London (go when it opens)
Madame Tussouds (go when it opens, and buy tickets ahead)
Westminster Abbey
London Eye
Buckingham Palace
West End Show
Portobello Rd Markets

There's a start.
How long will you be there for?

Disappointing- Carnaby Street! Not nearly as interesting as some of the boutiques we have here in NYC, and a very short street with too many junky tourist shops.

Also, and I'm sure other people will disagree with me, I really didn't like Knightsbridge, especially the Brompton Road area near Harrods. I mean unless you're a serious and wealthy shopper, it's boring, and most stores, restaurants, etc. seem to close up tight very early at night. We really preferred Mayfair and Picadilly Circus this time for good wandering and eating.

Have fun!

Don't : London Dungeon, Tower bridge experience; Madame Tussaud, Vinopolis

Do: many things, but I'd include Kew Gardens and Hampton Court Palace, Tower of London (buy tickets at nearby Undeground Station train tickets office), British Museum, National Gallery, Tate and Modern Tate

To each his own. I would say NOT to the Tate Modern unless you're really into that modern "art". When I went last year, I kept saying to myself "huh?" and "why am I here?"

But I can check it off the list now and don't plan to go a second time.

MUST SEE - London Eye. The view is outstanding and I will definitely go again.

You know, it all depends on your likes and dislikes - what someone else finds "not worth it" is the highlight of anothers trip. That said, we really thought the Tate Modern was a waste of time (well, they do have a really crazy piano you have to see to believe). We're museum lovers, like art, etc. but the Tate was not our cup of tea! We also thought Kew Gardens was pretty boring, but again it's a personal thing.

We've been going to London every year for a long time and rent an apartment and try and feel like locals for a short time anyway, which means going to grocery stores too (which can be real fun even if you hate grocery shopping home).

Must see's for first timers are in the eyes of the beholder, but I'd recommend The Tower, Buckingham Palace, London Eye (for the views, go at twilight, very nice!), Westminster Abbey, just walking the various neighborhoods (one of my favorite pastimes), The British Museum, The Museum of London, The V&A Museum, and the lovely small museums, The Wallace Collection, Geoffrye House, Aspley House .. all wonderful, choose one if you can't do them all. Hampstead Heath is another favorite of mine, as is Regent's Park (London parks are splendid).

To get out of London a bit I'd suggest #1 Hampton Court, #2 Windsdor Castle, #3 Greenwich (take the boat down, tube back it's faster). Lots of great places a bit further from London but you may not have time.

Really tho,it's what you enjoy that makes the trip, whether it's a walk in the park, theater every night, shopping till you drop, or services at St. Paul's, or standing with the crowd in front of Buckingham Palace hoping "someone" comes out! (Hey, you never know).

Enjoy the trip!

I'd happily close down "The Clink" and Madame Toussad's (avoid at all costs on a warm day -- it's not air conditioned.)

If you're a serious walker, start off in St. James Park and keep going through Green Park and Hyde Park until you get to Kensington Gardens. You'll be exhausted and exhilirated.

Out of town, I'd skip Stratford -- it's a Shakespearean tourist trap. But do go to the new Globe Theater in London for the tour and a performance.

On the great churches beat, if you have a choice between York Mister and Canterbury Cathedral, take York. Much less commercial.

Again these are the personal preferences of a frequent visitor. My usual advice to a first time traveler to London is to hit the bus tour on the first or second day, then decide what you want to go back to explore in depth.

Have a great trip.

Madam Tussauds, if only because of the outrageous entrance fee.

Another must-see: the Courtauld Gallery (it's one of 3 galleries at Somerset House). Also, try to spend some time strolling through city parks or the Chelsea Physic Garden; not only are they beautiful, they offer a much needed mental break from the noise and congestion of such a large city.

But ThinGorJus, they Do get HIT, right? That must give you some solace.

Here's a suggestion for a great place to go: Primrose Hill! It's quite a hike up the hill but the views of London below are unbelieveable! I am terrible with directions so I can't tell you exactly how to get there. We walked there after going through Regent's Park. I believe it's near the Camden Locks area. I read about it in a guidebook so I'm sure you could find good directions.

I love all the London parks--Regent's is my favorite, but St. James, Hyde Park, and Kensington Gardens are also wonderful. Just spending time exploring these parks, having picnics, etc. was a favorite activity of mine in London. To me, the parks are definte "must sees."

I also second the recommendation about going to Greenwich by boat and seeing Hampton Court Palace and Windsor Castle. Great day trips and so much to see. Enjoy your trip!

I haven't een there for many years but I loved the Soames Museum, trials at the old Bailey(the formal name of which is the central criminal court) watching the tradition -bound trappings wigs and robes worn by lawyers and judges. The line forms on Newgate Street and as I recall a fwe late morn hours and a few afternoon. A sign posted the days hearings,
Debates in the house of commons was fun(and I thought our Boston lawyers were flashy)There's a "strangers'gallery" easy to get into but a line. I forget the hours.
Lunch hours on leather lane was a great market for flea market things that was open only diuring lunch hours.
Now my info. goes way back so look for an update as my fav boutiques are no longer like Ossie Clark(tho I read there's a great exhibit of his fashions, Annacat, and is Voyageurs still there?

I lived in England for 2 years when I was 18/19 y.o. I never really took advantage of my good luck at living there.

I went to London a few times, never seriously checked out tourist sights. However, my mother visited while I lived there and she dragged me (nearly literally) to Stratford, Bath, Stonehenge, Salibury, Colchester, etc. I am so glad that she did. Not only because it was wonderful to touch the "other" stones on the Salisbury plain and to see the White Horse, but because I shared it with my mother. Who by the way, put up with driving about in my crappy little french Simca, which overheated constantly. I remember her making up silly songs as we made our way back to Ipswich, her eye constantly on the fuel gauge, which never moved, cuz it was broken.

Ten years later I found myself in London again. Alone this time. Did I take the opportunity to take in "the sights?" No. I went to the theater every day. I checked out what plays were being performed and I called the will-call office and was able to get very good last minute seats to several plays. After each play, I treated myself to great meals. Usually Indian, cuz that's my fav.

My mother died a few years ago. Last year I was at my brother's house and I saw a pin that I recognized on his mantle. It was a replica of a Roman pin that my mother purchased at the Roman temple in Colchester (the day the pub manager allowed us to stay during the afternoon closing time). My brother had no idea what it was. I explained the history. I told the story. I took that pin home and put in a box with the same pin that I owned. I'll keep it until my niece is old enough to receive it.

I guess I really haven't answered the question posed, but the original post brought back these memories.

You see, it's not always about what to see, what to do, what to avoid. But instead it can be about who you are with.

Thanks for sharing the memory MizzEve. S

The Museum of London is not as well known as the others but worth a visit.It traces London history from Roman times to present. Part of the original London wall is still standing beside the museum. Quite an interesting place. If you like art try Wallace Museum.

I agree: please miss Mme Tussauds, the London Dungeon, Carnaby Street, Vinopolis, Tate Modern (unless you like it), and the Clink. There is little point in seeing Big Ben and even lessin seeing Piccadilly Circus. The changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace gives a long wait for little pleasure: the changing of the horse guards on Whitehall is a better idea, but still not brilliant.

[email protected]

Mizzeve. I think we were living in London at the same time. Were you studying there? Where did you live?

I almost stopped reading when I got to the "horrid, fat, stupid Americans" disertation by Thingorjus, but I am glad I continued to read or else I would have missed your post. It is people like you who really "get it" about traveling and whose reports I enjoy the most.

Don't wear your "God Bless America" tee-shirt in London. They just might not accept your money!

Mizz Eve, that was lovely to read. :)

Sounds like a bizzare thing to do, but a visit to Highgate Cemetary (Archway Tube Station) is really interesting. Take a guided tour - the views from the top of the hill are amazing. Karl Marx is buried here, but most interesting thing is the victorian era part because in those time the families used to visit the cemetary as a day out and take picnic lunches. I think Frankinstein was written from here as well. Hope you have a great time

I would strongly recommend a boat trip from Westminster Pier to Greenwich. It's great to see the sights of London from the water and to be in the fresh air. Be sure to get a boat with commentary. As you near Greenwich, you will see more and more of the old wharves, giving a feel for the Thames as it used to be. Greenwich itself is very interesting - observatory on the hill with great views of Canary Wharf/Dome (an eyesore IMO but it's there so might as well look at it), Meridien, Maritime Museum, Cutty Sark. Lots to see and do with much Georgian architecture.

Otherwise, I would also strongly recommend a London Walk. There are so many subjects!! I last did the one in Hampstead which was FANTASTIC. Hampstead is another little jewel that is well worth wandering around and getting lost in the backstreets. Take a picnic for lunch on the Heath..

As an American in London, I have been treated kindly everywhere I have gone, but have been offended by some comments made on this thread. Not all Americans are fat, not all Americans wear God Bless America tshirts, and not all Americans wander through the streets. Generalizing an area of the world is a small minded attempt at belittling others. In my experience it is usually the person doing the name calling that has the problem.
As far as places not to go in London, the Britain at War Museum would be on that list. It is not a bad museum, just not interesting to some, and a lot of it is covered with the Imperial War Museum, which is free.

Hello America

Theres a very small 1550 operating theatre, hidden for years in the roof of a church. Its near London bridge, http://www.thegarret.org.uk/

If you get bored at Gallerys go in the evening on a Thursday or Friday night, you can have a glass of wine which is so civilised, sometimes theres string quartets!

Oxford street is hideously busy, and has nasty shops, if you can brave busy head for Selfridges its well designed and has a great selction of all shops in one, top food too.

After go to St Christophers place for a coffee and sit down at the various pavement cafes.

London food is arguably the best in the world, with the rich and unique ethic mix of people, blends of Asian, Indian, French food are common. You be shocked at the prices though, since food in the US is so incredibly cheap, but shell out and you'll enjoy the experience, try to ignore the number at the end of your bill.

Try eating at E&O Nottinghill for a Japenese, Asian Fusion.

Or the Tamerind, Mayfair for the most fresh and exciting Indian around, its not cheap though, but the experience is amazing.

Mirabelle is an English/French legend, as is Langhams but has simpler English food its part owned by Micheal Cane dont you know!

Try a fringe theatre at the Red Lion pub in Islington rather than the West End for a change. Whilst you are there vist a few bars its busy, but fun!

Hope that helps, Harvey Nics is great for lunch but Harrods is so tacky.

Bye bye.

I don't think Hampstead is worth a special visit any longer. It used to be enchanting but when we went there in December (I dragged my husband there, he had never been), it was a total disappointment. Cars jammed all the streets, honking horns, blaring loud rap music. A lot of the individual pubs had been taken over by chain establishments, complete with laminated plastic menus. There was a harsh "new money" atmosphere rather than the quiet village atmosphere I remembered from other visits over the years.
Hampstead Heath may still be pleasant (we didn't get there that time), but the "village" of Hampstead has been overtaken by the "new" London brash and cash.

I'm surprised no one's mentioned the Cabinet War Rooms (WW II/Churchill),
the National Portrait Gallery and the new and beautiful British Library. Also, the Barbican Centre, for me, was very interesting and attractive.

MizzEve, thanks for sharing the lovely memories.

insgirl, of course, as others have mentioned, it depends on your interests. If you decide to check out the London Eye, and have any interest in theater & art, then include a trip to the Globe Theater (tour and, if you can a performance), then the Tate Modern (practically next door to the Globe - I agree with those who disliked the contents of this museum, but I enjoyed a quick tour of this refurbished factory building and there's a quite nice restaurant in the Tate Modern with beautiful views of London & the Thames. All of these sites are along a walkway on the River Thames. There are other sites within walking distance, so check a map and see what appeals to you....Houses of Parliament, St. Paul's, a theater complex, etc.

I should add that the places I mentioned are meant TO SEE, not NOT TO SEE as in the heading. Also, I agree with BTilke about Hampstead - a disappointment for me. I too was touched by MizzEve!

Aahh Mizzeve,
How touching and you said it so perfectly!
Thank you~
Scarlett

Reading MizzEve's reminiscence brought tears to my eyes and reminded me of my second trip to England with my Grandmother (Nana). She was my best friend and, as my Mother would say, "my lawyer." I was also about 19 at the time. I had met an English guy on the first trip (from college) & wanted to visit him. It was deemed inappropriate for me to go "unchaperoned" so Nana offered to come along. The guy turned out to be expendable (although I did end up marrying another Englishman many years later) but the trip with Nana was unforgettable. She was SOOO cool. I dragged her every place & she loved it all. It made me realize how much I enjoy showing a place I like to someone else. Hope she's listening.

As to "must sees" & "must avoids"-I too found the Tate modern a yawn & a "schlepp" to get to but glad I went once.

I still have vivid memories of watching a trial at the Old Bailey. I didn't visit the National Portrait Gallery until a few years ago & couldn't believe I had missed it for so long. It was great!

As others have said often, on my first visit I did the hop on hop off bus first thing on arriving & found it a wonderful way to get to know London. Enjoy!

Hi
here are my opinions
NOT: London Dungeon, London Dungeon,
Tower Bridge Experience, Madame Tussaud, London Dungeon
I also found the London Theatre Museum a big disappointment, just not much to it imo

MAYBE not, depending on your interests:
Hampstead (though I went for the Freud Museum and was thrilled)
Kensington Palace
Imperial War Museum (it was okay for once, but even though I am a history buff, I wasn't that stimulated by the exhibits, much prefer the Cabinet War Rooms)
Both Tates
Harrods (maybe once, for 15 minutes, to see the food halls)

Tops on my list, and I tend to repeat these and others on some or all of my visits:
Theatre
the Tower
Westminster Abbey
Cabinet War Rooms
Banquetng Room
Spencer House (a new favorite, but only open on Sundays, and not all Sundays)
Nat'al Gallery
Nat'al Portrait Gallery
Courtauld Institute
Fortnum and Mason (to stock up on teas, jams, etc)
V&A Museum
Wren's Churches
Greenwich
Hampton Court
Windsor Castle

I take it, then, ThinGorjus, that there are NO fat Londoners? How wonderful it must be to be so perfect!

Calimari ~ I lived in Ipswich '81-'83. I was stationed at RAF Bentwaters. I really do miss England.

Cathyh ~ I love to check out old graveyards. They can be so beautiful and interesting. To see how people are memorialized, the words that are engraved. There's a large graveyard in my city that is absolutely perfect for picnics.

Thingorjus ~ You never offend me. I drink gin (Bombay of course) and I like pink. So, what's this pink gin you're talking about? And, if I pop across the pond will you pour some for me? ((D))

To go through life wearing a scowl and no sense of humor, AND wearing GOD BLESS AMERICA t-shirts, white trainers, and tight sweatpants that display bags of cellulite! That's a good visual!

Back to the original question, I'm a museum lover but hands-down, the museum experience I've enjoyed least in my life, even though it was free, was the Tate Modern.

Sorry, ThinGorjus, must have been your droll English humor we always hear so much about!

Mizzeve.

Looks like we were living there at during the same time frame. I lived in a few different places while studying and working. (a break up with a boyfriend sort of upset the applecart and I had to move aroumd).

I lived in Highgate mostly, but also in Maidavale with friends in a house called "The Brownings" next to the Warwick tube station, Bel Gravia on Chesham Mews, a few other stops and a little dose of Kilburn just to keep it all real. I missed London for years but after my last trip last month I am definately over it. I found many of the buildngs to be vacant and run down, the locals looked pastey, sullen, smelled of cigarettes and stale beer and the prices were really out of line compared to other grand European cities.

I am thrilled though to have taken my children. It is so much fun to revist a once beloved city through the non judgemental eyes of a child.

LunaBella,
Your comment about the Tate Modern really made me laugh. We found it to be a place we'd never even consider returning to even if it were "free-er then free". My husband wanted to know why I was punishing him with a visit to the Tate!! We do look back on it with amusement tho, and we did get a kick out of the crazy piano exhibit but that was about it. We generally love museums and will spend ages in them too.

As for ThinGorjus, I just hope you are having a bad day or were aiming for humor (and overshot the mark).

London is a wonderful city to walk around but use the tube to get to a particular location because London is HUGE. First timers should try the Hop On-Hop Off bus tours to get their bearings (get the overview)

I definitely recommend London Walks; they are fun as well as informative (I prefer the neighborhood walks to the more famous Ghost walks).

DEFINITELY NOT: London Dungeon

SORT OF NOT: Kensington Palace (the grounds are more interesting than the building)

A MAYBE ONCE:
I will say that one of my enjoyable memories in London when I was 13 and my brother was 7 was going to Madame Tussaud's. If you are going to London with children, you might consider it.

Stratford-Upon-Avon (only once except to go to the theatre)

ONE TIME:
Buckingham Palace (note: I've never been in London during the part of the year when tours are conducted - I would go once)
Changing of the Guard (I prefer the horse guards)
Harrods
Tate Modern (the art stinks in my opinion but the building is terrific)
Tour of Shakespeare's Globe
Museum of London

DEFINITELY GO:
West End Theatre
Tower of London (the history is terrific)
British Museum
Cabinet War Rooms (it really made me appreciate Churchill and what the vets did in WWII)
Natl Gallery
Natl Portrait Gallery
V&A Museum
Westminster Abbey
Tate Britain (if you like Turner, go)
St. Paul's

DEFINITE SMALL MUSEUMS (if you have time):
Sir John Soane's Museum
Wallace Collection
Courtauld

OUTSIDE LONDON (time factor):
Hampton Court
Windsor Castle

Note: I haven't been on the London Eye yet nor gone to the Apsley House (next trip).

Have a great time!

Hey ThinGorjus! I guess you haven't seen some of the British tourists here in the States. The only difference is what their t-shirts say! LOL

And for everyone else, please take note of the fact that I said "some" , not all!

Onetotravel

Good recommendations!

Is the Apsley House the house frozen in time? They do not admit children under 12 so we had to miss it, but I have been wanting to go for years! Looks like I will never have that opportunity. Has anyone been?