Trip Report: Paris and Rouen
 

After my beautiful trip via TGV from Dijon to Gare de Lyon, I easily found my way to the Ecole Militaire Métro stop. What a great surprise that my hotel was just steps away from the stop. I got checked in, ate the sandwich I had picked up at the Gare de Lyon, grabbed my camera and was off.

This was my fourth trip to Paris, but my first alone. Although my stay was short, my plan was to see a few of the things I had not seen before, but that I had always wanted to see. With that decided, I still had to start my visit with a trip to the Eiffel Tower.

I don’t know how to explain my relationship with this landmark. The first time I went to Paris was my first trip to Europe. Paris would not have been my first choice of cities to visit, but the price was right and so that’s where I went. I thought that Paris was just going to be too cliché. I was anxious to visit the great art museums, but I thought that places like the Eiffel Tower would be just too touristy.

Well, certainly the Eiffel Tower is a huge tourist attraction, but with my first glimpse, I was in awe and in love. This was Paris! It struck a deep harmonic cord somewhere in my ancestry, past lives, or soul! The enduring character of the steel, the strength of the material, the majesty of its size, and the gracefulness of its design, said one word -- Paris. It stands there like a soldier at attention, yet has the fluidity of the Seine. I have since begun every visit at the Eiffel Tower.

Visiting my favorite spot was also convenient because I had never taken a sightseeing cruise on the Seine. I boarded at the Eiffel Tower and although it was chilly, I thoroughly enjoyed the different perspective this cruise allows. I have always loved the Pont Alexandre III, but found that from beneath, the decorations of most of the bridges are noteworthy. If you want to see some of these and my other photos from this trip (Rouen, Dijon, Avignon), you can visit my photos at:

http://community.webshots.com/user/cchottel
I take many photos, but I figure my friends don’t want to see too many, so I cull them down. There are more in these 4 albums than I usually post. I take the rest just for myself and make CD slideshows with music.

When the trip was done, I walked leisurely back to my hotel through the 7ème and went back to the hotel to relax before setting out for dinner.

Well, I’m an American and after a week of wonderful French cooking, I was ready for a bite of good old American food. On my last trip, my daughter, who is not an adventurous eater, found a restaurant called Indiana in Montparnasse. I must admit, they make a good burger. So I hopped the Métro and struck out for Montparnasse. My burger, fries, and margarita hit the spot and Montparnasse is always a lively area to walk around after a big meal. Before long, I decided to go back to my hotel because I needed to get up fairly early to catch a train for my next day’s trip to Rouen.

Rouen – or “occasionally everyone has a bad day.”

It was Tuesday morning the 4th and I’m on my way to Rouen for the day. The trip was uneventful and quick.

I got off the train and headed into the center of town. Now I knew that Tuesday in Rouen would mean that some sights were closed, but heck, the books said there would to be plenty to see to keep me busy.

I walked into town past a beautiful park. I wish, I had been able to stay awhile, but it was really rather chilly to spend a any real time on a park bench. I followed the map I headed toward the tourist office through a vehicle free area with all modern shopping. I finally got to the tourism office across from Notre Dame and got one of their maps.

Rouen’s Notre Dame was under some renovation. It really did need a good cleaning, but you could tell the bones under the grime were beautiful. I went into the church and it was impressive. I wandered around as long as I could before I left to further explore Rouen.

I walked through the smaller streets, still with modern shops and dotted with ceramics shops. Was getting close to noon, so I took my time, took some pictures, and went back to a creperie I had seen as I was wondering around that had looked good. I was right. It was called Creperie Saint Romain. Very good regional-style creperie. The galettes made with buckwheat were excellent. I can’t remember what savory galette I got, but it sure was good. Got a small green salad and a cider. Very good! Got something apple, of course, for dessert.

Downhill from here:

After lunch, I wandered back, tried to check out some of the shopping, but I’m just not into that. Decided to head over to what really must be the good section of the historical district -- the area where the Joan of Arc museum and church were located – the old market area. Well, I was absolutely sure my map must be wrong. Where the church was to be, there was only an combination ultra-modern monstrosity that housed a market. No church that I could see and definitely nothing that looked like a museum.

Suddenly it all came to me. The church was part of this monstrosity. A sign to be loosely paraphrased showed “Joan was burned here,” and the museum was in the back of a souvenir shop on the square.

I had no interest in looking at the church, the market looked dirty and smelled, and I was able to read the sign in a second. I entered the souvenir shop and paid my 4€ for the museum. I wound down into a leaky basement and viewed some of the memorabilia. I will say there was a lot items and it was interesting, but dim. I worked my way upstairs where the mannequinned vignettes began telling the story of St. Joan. There were buttons to push at each scene that told the story in various languages. Although the settings were amateurish and they hadn’t turned on many of the lights, in fact forgot one entirely, I will say the audio was very informative. For what this museum was, they had done a pretty good job, but certainly was not the place I had envisioned. I had had such high hopes.

I went to an internet café from there because there just didn’t seem to be much else, and frankly, I was too disheartened to search too hard. Sent a few emails and then I figured I would head to the train station in hopes of getting an earlier train. But before the walk to the station, I decided to look for a restroom. As in the rest of the world, you can usually count on a clean restroom in McDonalds and a soft drink sounded good before my walk to the train station.

Down, Down:

If I can say nothing else about Rouen, and I’m sure it would have been better on another day when I could have at least gone to the Musee des Beaux Arts, they have the nicest McDonalds I have ever seen – and clean restrooms. I got my drink, sat down at a table with a book. Suddenly, with much commotion, several women came running into the restaurant and locked the door. They stood there looking anxiously out the windows. A couple of young men came to the door to come in, but the women wouldn’t let them in. They decided it was Femmes only!

As it turned out, the Tuesday demonstrators had been walking down the adjacent street and apparently were getting a little rowdy. As soon as they passed and the women unlocked the doors, I went the opposite direction and headed to the train station. Noticed the subway was closed, the police riot squads were rushing through town in vans with sirens blaring, and a couple helicopters circled above. I decided it was probably a good idea that I was heading to the train station, because goodness knew, I sure didn’t want to get locked in anymore buildings in Rouen! I hadn’t liked it that well when I could roam around freely!

When I got to the train station, it looked like the demonstrators had been around. Lots of leaflets littered the street, a few broken windows, and lots of police. I will add that this was the closest I had gotten to any sort of disruptive demonstrations and I never even saw it. I showed the police at the door my train ticket and went inside…

I saw by the departure board that a train was leaving at that exact minute. There was no way I would make it and I didn’t feel like rushing. I would have to wait for my scheduled train. Then I realized that my scheduled train was no longer scheduled. I went to the ticket agent and they said that the strike had caused its cancellation. When I asked if I needed another ticket, they said, “No” and to use the one I had on any train I wanted. Since I wanted to go to Paris and next train to Paris was two hours after my scheduled one, it meant a total wait of about 3 hours! Oh, no. More hours bored in Rouen!

And down a little more:

Since I always have a book with me, I decided to try out the French theory of having rented the table for the price of a cup of coffee. I read my book, talked to some travelers from Senegal, and, all-in-all, made it through without going entirely crazy.

When the train came, the conductor showed me to a first-class compartment like I would have had on my original train. There was no one else around. I vaguely remember reading that this is probably not a good idea alone at night, but what the heck, the peace and quiet sounded good to me. Obviously, too good to be true.

After we had been traveling about ½ hour, a man came into the compartment, very, very drunk and sat down right next to me and started to speak in French. Five other seats, but he had to sit next to me! I told him I didn’t speak French. Didn’t know what he was saying, but he kept on talking and talking and leaning over to me no matter how much I tried to ignore him. It finally got me feeling a uncomfortable and I had had just enough of a bad day that I didn’t want to put up with it anymore. So I got up, walked down a couple of compartments, walked into the one that the conductors were sitting in, and told them, I was sitting there with them. The asked me what was wrong and I said that I just didn’t like being in the compartment alone with a drunk man who refused to leave me alone. They were very nice and worried that the man had accosted me. I told them, no he hadn’t, but had made me very uncomfortable and nervous and I would prefer to stay where I was. They said it was fine to stay right there. I’m not sure they even believed me, because when they went to look, the man had gone. But they were nice about it. I finished the ride, reading my book.

I was a little concerned when I got off the train, but never saw the man again. I took Métros from St. Lazare to Ecole Militaire. It was too late really to find somewhere to eat and I was just too tired. So I went to a little store, got an absolutely awful chicken sandwich and a bottle of juice, went back to my hotel and realized, that even in France, not everything will always be perfect.

A new day and a great surprise:

It was very cold the next day. I went thru the rue Cler, but that took all of 15 minutes. It is a market area, but very quick if you aren’t shopping. I headed over Les Invalides to take pictures, but it was so cold, I decided to finally go in and visit Napoleon’s tomb. I had never done it before because frankly I thought it would be boring. Wow! Was I wrong! To think I had missed this before by choice. How beautiful! Not the over-the-top decoration of Versailles, but real beauty. I took many pictures and took the audio tour.

I had lunch at the cafeteria where I enjoyed a sandwich and watching as the staff took turns chasing out the pigeons that flew in the door. It was comical and a great relief after the day before.

I bought myself a little tiny crank music box in the gift shop of La Vie en Rose. My favorite French song. I found myself humming it the rest of the day.

When I left I went to the Musée Rodin. The sun had come out and it was wonderful walking through the garden. I love sculpture and it was terrific to finally see this museum of one of my favorites.

I also had to go to Ile Cité and Ile St. Louis, although I got too tired to see much of the latter.

I went back to the 7ème and started looking for somewhere for dinner. I found Ristorante Tina around the corner from my hotel. Very reasonable. Excellent Italian food and gave me an opportunity to speak my limited Italian rather than my limited French. I definitely recommend this restaurant if you want a change from French cuisine.

I went back to my hotel knowing that the next day I would have to get up, pack, and head to the airport to come home.

My CDG excursion:

I decided to take the Roissy bus since the Number 8 line from Ecole Militaire goes directly to Opéra.

This went really well and I was at the bus stop quickly. I stood in a huge line waiting to get on the bus. Just before it was my turn to step up on the step, the driver started motioning people to come in and walk right by him. He didn’t collect any more money. I got my seat and thought he was in a hurry because another bus had come up behind him. When we stopped to change drivers, I realized, he was just so anxious to go home or on break, he felt generous. Anyway, many of us had a free trip.

When I got to the airport, I found my ticket counter and went through all that. When I finally got up to check my bag and get my boarding pass, the woman at the counter said, you must go to Gate E87. It is a long way and I suggest you go now. Boy, am I glad I listened to her! Not only was it a long, long walk, we then had a drive on of about 20 minutes to the real Gate E87. I walked around a little and they soon started calling row numbers for boarding. We lined up for the final check and we were once again loaded on buses to drive the 20 minutes (or maybe it was to Chamonix) right by the way we had originally come to the plane on the tarmac.

Well, that’s it. It was a great trip. I saw so much I had never seen and done so much I had never done. Provence, Dijon, Coco and her wonderful family. Even Rouen. I am sure that no matter how many times I visit France, there will always be something new and wonderful.

Oops, my link is wrong for the photos. It is:

http://community.webshots.com/user/cchottel1

Lovely... all of the solo Paris travelers such as yourself make me think it is just the adventure for me.

I didn't like Rouen a bit either. I stayed in a hotel directly in front of the little area where Joan was burned at the stake and had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to get my rental car into that square as it was all blocked off. Drove around and around and around. The only town in France I visited that I really have no desire to go back.

Thanks so much for your report.

Amwosu, I'm glad to know it wasn't just me. As for solo travel, it is the way I like to go best. So glad that I finally got to France without anyone else, although I make allowances for my daughter. She's okay.

P.S. If you are in Columbus, we live in the same town.

I lived in "old Columbus-towne" for four years. I was a cheerleader at OSU and get back every year for the first game of the season.

How much French do you speak? I took two years of French in h.s. 25 yrs ago so I can cobble together a few words and read menus... Not that it would stop me from a solo trip. Last time I was with my son who spoke even less French than me.

I liked Rouen alot. I don't know if I'd like it if I had been alone but Paris is wonderful for a woman by herself. I was there in March. and wished I could have stayed longer.
Welcome back, cchottel

I don't really. I have picked up a phrase here and there. I can do greetings, restaurants, that's about it.

I really do love to travel alone. The language barrier doesn't bother me at all. I try and I laugh.

Mimi, as I said, it might just be because of it being Tuesday and the way things went that day.

I don't like to shop and the sights that were open weren't enough to hold my interest.

Good to be back, but I've already been trying to decide, where next? I want to take two more trips yet this year. Maybe one European in the fall, or Vancouver, BC.

It is too bad that you didn't enjoy more of Rouen. The day we went, there was a delay on the track and our train was 'held up' for almost two hours. So we didn't see as much as I had hoped, but we appreciated what we saw. We took the tourist train around for fun and to get some bearings, viewed the interior of the cathedral, went inside the courtyard of 'Aitre Saint Maclou', a medieval plague cemetery, and saw the donjon where Joan d'Arc was held. The timbered buildings were colorful and made for nice photos.
If anyone would like to see, the photos are in the middle of my 'Paris 2005' album, frames 42-56,I believe. (just scroll to the blue boxes and skip over enough...)
http://tinyurl.com/pqewr

travelnut. Great pics of Rouen. It would have been different if it hadn't been Tuesday. If it hadn't been cold and very dark gray. The half-timbered buildings didn't look colorful, just dreary. The museums weren't open and Gros Horloge was covered for renovation and Notre Dame with scaffolds, so I couldn't even enjoy looking at them from the outside. It was just the day. Another day, it might have been grand. But I doubt that I'll go back.

Yes, travel nut, The man who walked through walls was a story by Marcel Ayme but the sculptor was the fampous French Actor Jean Marais. great photos!!!
I can understand cchottel. I remember being in Paris one year with my girlfriend, she hated it but everything seemed to be covered in canvas and scaffolding. So I understood her disappointment. We ended up back in London after only two days. Have you tried Provence? :)

Yes, if you follow my posts (click on my user name) you will see that I started my trip in Avignon, took a couple day trips. That was the first report. Then I went to Dijon. That was the second. This is the end of my trip report. I was happy and very happy everywhere, just not Rouen.

Nimes had everything scaffolded and covered, too, but it helped that it was a beautiful warm day. And I didn't have train problems.

My point is that on the best of trips, a day that is less than perfect might happen.

I loved the park in Rouen. I loved the interior of Notre Dame. I even liked the Joan of Arc museum for what it was. But there were things I didn't like. Didn't ruin my trip, just was a day.

cchottel, you take fantastic photos. I enjoyed them very much. I was surprised at how beautiful Napoleon's tomb was-and moving too. The Musee Rodin is one of my favorites and it's amazing to see all of those famous sculptures in person.

Lovely photos & report! Please tell me where you stayed in the 7th?
I was at Hotel Duquesne which was lovely.

Francophile -- Thank you. To think that I didn't go to the Tomb sooner. Assumed that it was a guy thing, etc. I even enjoyed the museum although I zipped through.

Todd - Thanks to you, too. I stayed at Hotel Royal Phare. Right at the top of the metro Ecole Militaire. It was okay. Certainly for the price of 67 euro. My first choice had been Eber-Mar, but it was booked for my dates. I an surprised that there are so many budget options in the 7th frankly.

cchottel, I 'feel' how your day in Rouen was... especially with key sights being covered up, dreary skies and closed museums. It just happens sometimes...

cchottel: Great report. I had a similiar 'downhill' day in Senlis on my last trip to Paris in March so I know how that can be. But, still a great trip.

Travelnut - I love your pictures and even though I just got back, now I want to go again. And I must say that you and your hubby are a really cute couple and your hubby looks very distinguished! Thanks for sharing.

A fun thing that happened in Paris was when the Gaumont cinema clerk gave us the senior discount for the movie - I'm sure it was solely because of his silver hair and walking cane. ;)

Thanks for everyone's sympathy, but really my day didn't warrant it. It was nothing more than a speedbump in a wonderful trip and it was certainly eventful. This was my trip report, so I reported it. As I said, any other circumstances, I might have loved Rouen.

Things go wrong, but more goes right. I'd rather think about it.

Hi cc :-)
What a pity for Rouen (and Dijon when it rained) I'm afraid you'll have to come back later in the nice season! ;-)

I went to the FNAC this afternoon and saw Amine's record! I know now who he is, I simply didn't know his name. I heard him on TV and radio, nice voice. :-)
Did you go to la Fnac when you were waiting for your second train in Rouen? You should have!

No I didn't. Since by that time, the riot police were being sent out in droves, I decided it would be best for me to stay at the station out of the way. I always have a book with me. Remember the one I make smaller and smaller? :)

I do love what I have heard from Amine, but I now don't think it was Amine who does the one song I kept hearing on the radio while I was there. I really like it. I heard it so often and heard it while waiting for the train in Rouen. That is how I got started talking to the young men from Senegal. I asked if they knew who did the song? They didn't either, but they agreed they liked it.

I discovered I can get Amine and de Palmas, etc. on-line at amazon.com.

As for the rain, the worst part about rain isn't getting wet. After all my mother used to tell me "You aren't sugar and you won't melt." But photographs look so much better on a "Sunny 16 day." A day with blue skies, a few nice white clouds, and sunshine. So many of my photos just look too gray and all the brightening just isn't going to change that.

I want you to know that I really am missing France. I have been in a funk ever since I got back. No, I'm not my usual Polyanna cheerful self. Guess that means it is time to start planning my next trip. Hmmm, where to?

cchottel,
Thanks for the great trip report! I enjoyed it very much. We were thinking of a day trip to Rouen, though, and I'm having second thoughts now. Maybe we'll just go back to Giverny instead. I think you handled the difficulties of Rouen well. Good you had that book!

Sandy

Sandy, I have this trick when I travel. I buy cheap second-hand paperbacks from the library. I stick one in my purse (but it is always a tight fit). As I read it, I rip the pages I've read out of the book, so it keeps getting thinner and easier to carry. Coco, like my daughter, can't believe I could rip up a book. I wouldn't if it were a hardcover, but in this case, it doesn't bother me.

Travelnut liked Rouen, so maybe it isn't so bad. Are you a Monet enthusiast? I think I saw a poster for an upcoming exhibit in Rouen. That might make all the difference for you. I'm not a Monet lover.

If you thinking of Rouen because of the half-timbered buildings, you will find a number of them in Dijon, too. That could be a day trip. If you haven't been to Dijon, read my Dijon report.

My next day trip is to Provins...
http://www.provins.net/
http://www.provins.org/English_version/english.htm

cchottel,
I know a lot of people who tear apart guide books, so they won't have to carry the whole thing. I can't do it :-) Thanks for the tip on the Monet exhibit, but we won't be going until 2007, so that will probably be long over. Dijon is a place I'd like to see. I hadn't thought of it as a day trip, but something to think about. I will read your Dijon report. Thanks!

Sandy

To Cchottel :

Bonjour !

I can understand your disappointment when you visited MY town because you chose a Tuesday (a day when all national museums are closed in France) and, unfortunately, the weather was grey and there were demonstrations throughough the town... But, please, do come back on a spring or summer day, NOT on a Tuesday if you want to have access to our beautiful Musée des Beaux-Arts (one of the richest in France, see my post in the thread dedicated to it), our interesting "Musée de la Céramique" located in the old "Conservatoire de Musique" and uncommon "Musée de la Ferronnerie" called "Le Secq des Tournelles"

Since I'm a "Rouennaise" (I was born in Rouen and live here), I must be partial to my town which I love in spite of its quite often wet climate and the presence of pollution which accounts for the dark aspect of the stone which is still found on some of our old churches, etc. I think I'm lucky to live in a town where one can admire at least 200 townhouses from the 17th and 18th century (plus the superb 16th century "Bourgtheroulde Résidence" where a bank is located... on the Place de la Pucelle), dozens of half-timbered houses dating from the 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th century, plus lots of beautiful churches (among which, my favourite : the Saint-Maclou church), the highest cast iron spire of its cathedral Notre-Dame (which rises to the height of 151 metres/491 feet), one of the most numerous stained-glass windows in France dating from the 13th to the 16th century (among which the wonderful Renaissance windows from St Vincent's Church which have been preserved during WWII and relocated in the modern church of St Joan of Arc, on Old Market Square which one must enter to admire them...)

Here are various web sites which you and/or other forumites may find of interest :

- the Tourism Office, of course : http://www.rouen.fr/accueil/index.p

- a very complete web site listing all the places of interest in our town : http://www.visite-de-rouen.com/ translation in English, beware of the translation at times : http://66.249.93.104/translate_c?hl=...language_tools

- a wonderful site made by one of our best "conférenciers", Jacques Tanguy :
http://www.rouen-histoire.com/

- on the previous site, one has access to a GORGEOUS page where one can click on various parts of the north façade of the Cathedral "Notre-Dame" and discover a photo and some explanations of each statue of saint : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm

- plus a list of the saints't statues which also shows a pic of the façade and the location of each statue which has been restored and put back on the façade : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm

- on this web page, one can have access to the pages (from the book written by Jacques Tanguy) dedicated to our... "Gros-Horloge" which is being renovated presently : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Itiner...neraires_1.pdf

- page where one can find a list of the churches containing some beautiful stained-glass windows : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Vitraux.htm

- oldest townhouse called "l'Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde" on the Place de la Pucelle ("hôtel particulier") : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Hot_Bourg/index.htm

Bon, voilà :-)! Hope I have a little convinced you to come back one day and visit MY town on a sunny day and without any stupid strikes AND not a Tuesday (I'm pulling your leg !/je vous taquine !) Cordialement. Marie (Rouen, Normandy)

To Travelnut :

Allow me to say "bonjour" to you and thank you for the beautiful pics you took of my town, Rouen ;-) !!! I also admired the other photos one finds in the album you kindly shared with us ;-)

The pics you took of the statues of saints a few weeks before they were put back on the north façade of our Cathédrale "Notre-Dame" are very interesting. I saw them while helping one of my American friends coming from California to visit Rouen. You'll find lots of them on the pages belonging to the site I've just indicated in my previous post : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm

- plus a list of the saints't statues which also shows a pic of the façade and the location of each statue which has been restored and put back on the façade : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm

Marie007, thanks for all the information. I had done the research accept I didn't know everything was undergoing renovation, that hurt.

Unfortunately, I was only in northern France for two days and I let's face it, I had to be somewhere on a Tuesday. I really thought what was open, would take up more time and my interest. I thought really thought there would be more about St. Joan, too.

As for coming in the summer, I don't travel then. Prefer to go when the crowds are less and the prices are cheaper. But I will say, I looked into a little courtyard, with half-timbered buildings and a pretty tree was in bloom and it was lovely. However, it was too dark in the courtyard to get a decent picture.

I really have nothing against Rouen, as I said, it was a combination of many things that made it less than a perfect day.

I'm glad you are proud of your town. It has a wonderful heritage and the people were very friendly and helpful.

Bien joué Marie! :-) I'm always glad to see someone fighting for one's town!

Face it cc, you'll really have to go back to France! ;-)

To Travelnut :

Allow me to say "bonjour" to you and thank you for the beautiful pics you took of my town, Rouen ;-) !!! I also admired the other photos of Paris one finds in the album you kindly shared with us ;-) The pics are excellent and reveal your love for France and even, if I'm not wrong, for my "compatriotes", which is not very common among tourists ;-)

Among the pictures you took of Rouen, the pics you took of the statues of saints, inside the "Cathédrale Notre-Dame", around the "choeur", a few weeks before they were put back on the north façade of our Cathédrale, are very interesting. I saw them while helping one of my American friends coming from California to discover the "trésors de ma ville" :-) You'll find lots of them on the pages belonging to the site I've just indicated in my previous post :

- http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm

- http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm

I can see you dared to "sortir des sentiers battus" and you took the "venelle"/alleyway which links the Rue Saint-Romain to the Rue Saint-Nicolas". I always have my friends walk along this very narrow "passage", especially... at night because it makes us realize the way Rouen was in the Middle-Ages and the past centuries ;-)

Here is a list of web pages related to... Rouen, of course :-), recommended by our Office du Tourisme : http://www.rouen.fr/decouvrir/histoire.php

I wonder if you could enter Saint-Ouen Abbey where one can admire beautiful 14th and 15th century stained-glass windows and contains one of the best organs in France : one made by the famous "facteur d'orgues"/organ builder : Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, in 1890, its "buffet"/case dating from the 16th century... Since you visited one of the most peaceful and strange but beautiful "yards" in Rouen : "l'Aître Saint-Maclou", you could admire one of St-Ouen Abbey towers where one is supposed to see the 3 symbols of a bishop (when seen from the yard/"la cour de l'Aître Saint-Maclou")

Yet, as I said in my previous post, my favourite church in Rouen is l'Eglise Saint-Maclou, which is a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic architecture... It's both very beautiful but... kind of "intimate" because it's remained on a human scale. My father had the privilege to play cello during the very last mass before the night when the choir of the church was destroyed on Aug. 4th, 1944 by a bomb... The choir was not reopened until... 1980 ! I would have loved our daughter to marry there next July, but she has preferred getting married in the nice and humble church of our village :-), which I may understand ;-) If you saw the narrow staircase made of a wonderful "dentelle de pierre" (stone filigree ???) which leads to the organ, can you imagine my father who is quite tall ascending the steps with his cello :-) ?!!!

Well, I hope I haven't bored you stiff with my "radotage" (ranting ???) :-) Bonne journée aux States ! Cordialement. Marie

Bonjour, Marie - where were you -before- I planned my trip..? :)
Thank you for all your helpful comments, especially about the statues as I wasn't sure about them. Our visit was too short, I can see that, and we didn't go into any museums..sounds like a return is in order.

To Travelnut :

Well, I must have been working at high school or surfing on another "sympathique" forum :-) !!!

Next time you come back, e-mail me in case I'm free (if you feel like it, of course :-) !) and we'll have a drink together "dans ma bonne ville de Rouen" :-) Marie

Heu, I've realized I typed too quickly my messages and made some stupid typos ! So sorry ! I think one can't edit one's posts on this forum so you'll have to be indulgent towards the Frenchie :-)

I've also seen one of my messages printed twice, lol ! Oh, là, là, quelle galère :-) !!! Marie (Rouen, Normandy)

Marie,

I sure wish you had been working at the tourist office that day. The man I spoke to was very nice and gave me a map, but he only circled Notre Dame and the Musee Jeanne d'Arc. I knew some things were closed, but I assumed he would point out the high points I could enjoy even on a Tuesday.

I found the clock tower but as you pointed out it is being renovated so it made sense he never mentioned that, and I found the donjon myself on my way back to the train station, but he never marked the l'Eglise Saint-Maclou or any of the other sites that according to their website probably were open. So I didn't bother wandering too far before I turned back toward the Vieux Marche.

I'm glad I wandered a little because I really enjoyed my lunch at the Creperie de Ste. Romain. If I had only gone further.

I had read a little about Rouen before going, but didn't take any guidebooks with me to save purse space. Thought a stop at the tourism office would be enough.

It is too bad, too, because as you have pointed out, they have a great website.
I tell you, Fodor's forum is the best source of info we traveler's have! You are a wealth of information. Wish I had talked to you before my trip.