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Trail Therapy, Consumption & Confusion; 6.5 weeks in Switzerland and Northern Italy

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Dec 7th, 2025 | 12:20 PM
  #41  
September 26 -

We took the Meiringen-Hasliberg cable car up to Reuti again (free with guest card) with plans to walk the three-hour Panoramaweg from there to Brünig Pass, at an elevation of 1,007 m (3,303 ft), and then take the bus back to Reuti.

Church we passed on the way to cable car station
Church we passed on the way to cable car station

We Coloradans aren’t generally impressed with a mere 3,303 feet as it’s lower than our lowest elevation, but Swiss mountains are sharp vertical peaks that rise from low lying valleys, making them much more prominent than the peaks of Colorado.

The trail looked innocuous enough on paper, but first we needed to ascend a steep road some 20 minutes to access the trail.

Trail map
Trail map

Once there, the trail became undulating as it led us alongside pungent pastures, barns and underneath two cable cars.

Trail marker
Trail marker
Panoramaweg
Panoramaweg

The clouds came and went as we wound through various small hamlets, some of the residents offering cheese or sausage for sale. The views came and went as well, the low-lying clouds completely enveloping us at one point. The path eventually led through a thick lush forest, making me feel like I was in New Zealand instead of Switzerland.

Interesting fungus
Interesting fungus
Non-views
Non-views
Walking the panoramaweg
Walking the panoramaweg
Walking the panoramaweg
Walking the panoramaweg
Lush green forest
Lush green forest

And the gardens! The Swiss and their gardening prowess put me to shame.

Swiss gardens
Swiss garden
Swiss gardens
Swiss garden
Swiss gardens
Swiss garden
Swiss gardens
Swiss garden

Optimist that I am, I thought we might continue walking the 90 minutes to Lungren once we arrived in Brünig Pass, but that became wishful thinking after 2:40 hours of joint abuse. Just as we were beginning to flag, we crested yet another hill, when suddenly we received a sign from above, a bus, heading back to Reuti, which pulled over and stopped.

Who were we to refuse? We climbed aboard and went back to Reuti, aborting our plan to walk all the way to Brünig Pass. We had no idea how much farther we would have had to walk, but we were done (just over five miles, we got on the bus at Hohflu Bodemli).

Back in Reuti we returned to the Reuti Hotel restaurant, thinking we’d missed their mittagesmenu, as it was past 1:30, but lo’ and behold, it was on until 2 pm. Yipee.

Bill chose the fried fish which came with a salad, a massive serve of mashed potatoes drenched in butter (he said they were wonderful) and a huge pile of…wait for it… creamed spinach…which was scowled at and abandoned (21 chf).

Yum
Yum
Bills massive lunch
Bill's massive lunch...spinach anyone?

I had the veg option, described as pasta with veg, but it was actually pasta in a cream sauce with tomatoes, which was excellent, and came with a lovely salad (21 chf). With a good glass of red wine each, we were set (56 chf).

My lunch
My lunch

Afterwards we took the cable car back down to Meiringen, stopped at Frutal Bakery for one last chocolate fix, in this case a chocolate rum ball I saw yesterday (3.80 chf and worlds better than yesterday’s choice).

Then it was back to the apartment to do laundry, shower and rest. My knees had had it.

It reached about 50 degrees today with 81% humidity. We never got rained on, but it was plenty gloomy and foggy.

Note: The 40 chf guest tax (20 per person for five nights) really paid off; we estimated we got about ~90 chf worth of bus/cable car/train/activity/discounts. Not all areas have guest cards, but they’re usually a good deal when offered.

To be continued...


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Dec 7th, 2025 | 12:53 PM
  #42  
So glad you’ve enjoyed Meiringen.
I photographed that cheese vending machine too, such a difference to ours offering UHP crap (I never had to buy cheese though, as my host kept leaving me slabs of cheese and packets of chocolate at my door!).

Did you prefer the longer trip this time? I despise the long haul so much, that staying longer appeals, but, elderly parents and a DH that might not agree..
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Dec 7th, 2025 | 03:07 PM
  #43  
Adelaidean -

This was sort of a test to see how we'd feel about such a long trip. We both thought it worked out well, it didn't feel too long at all, and we will probably plan a similar trip next year if possible. We keep saying we're going to stay a full week in 6-7 places, but our wish list is always too long.
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Dec 7th, 2025 | 09:27 PM
  #44  
Tripplanner..”We tried to summit, but gave up with all the hexagonal columns. That hike ranks up there with Tongariro” … you sure tackle the hard stuff!
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Dec 7th, 2025 | 11:43 PM
  #45  
Well done, again, Mel! Hohfluh Bodemli to Brünigpass, Bahnhof, would have been about 2 km and 30' walking more: you were almost to the end.

P.S. I'm one who likes creamy spinaches
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 05:32 AM
  #46  
Thanks Finsteraarhorn, had the bus not turned up, we'd have kept going. Should have saved that spinach for you
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 06:41 AM
  #47  
Sept 27 -

We woke to rain and snow on the mountain peaks; such a difference from when we arrived in hot humid Altdorf 10 days ago.

Alas, it was already time to leave Meiringen.

The previous night we’d looked into various train options, choosing the least busy option as indicated on the SBB site, as we knew we were going through busy, tourist infested Interlaken Ost.

We’d planned to take the 10:22 am train, but we arrived at the Meiringen Bahnhof early, and a near empty train to Interlaken Ost pulled in at 10:11, so we took it instead (19 chf each, we’d not booked this in advance as the savings wasn’t significant enough to commit to a specific train).

The ride took us alongside pretty Lake Brienz, a long white cloud clinging to the mountains, the lake below, snow-dusted mountains above.

Lake Brienz, train shot
Lake Brienz, train shot
Outskirts of Interlaken, Ost, train shot
Outskirts of Interlaken Ost, train shot

We met a couple from AZ on the platform at Interlaken Ost, this their first visit to Switzerland. They asked us where we were headed and how to identify their train carriage as they’d reserved a seat.

When the train arrived, we pointed them in the right direction, then joined the fray, many visitors seeming to travel with everything they owned.

We found a seat (in all our visits to Switzerland over the past 30 years we’ve never reserved a train seat, but that might have to change). We were now on the Golden Pass Panoramic train, which connects Interlaken to Montreux. This particular train announced stops using a cow bell, something for us tourists no doubt.

An announcement was made, indicating that the seat reservation displays were not operating, adding to the chaos, so we worried we were in a reserved seat. We hedged our bets by choosing two backward facing seats with no table in between, thinking those were the last two we’d have reserved - had we bothered to reserve.

We worried a bit every time the train stopped and more people got on, but eventually the seat reservation display came back on, and our bet had paid off.

Some two hours later we arrived in Zweisimmen, part of the holiday region of Gstaad. The village has a population of about 3,000 and makes a good base from which to explore the entire region. It’s a junction point for the Golden Pass Line so the Bahnhof gets busy at certain times, but most visitors seem to just pass through.

Bill led us right to our apartment; we’d stayed in the same place two years ago and unlike his wife, he has an uncanny sense of direction.

The apartment owner was out of town, but had left the key in the letter box for us. She also let us check in early as there’d been no guests the previous night.

After getting settled, we headed out to get provisions; tomorrow was Sunday and the shops would be closed. The village is home to a Coop, Denner and Migros, all situated a stone’s throw from each other, as well as an Aldi about a 15-minute walk away, so we were spoiled for choice

One advantage to long trips is that our travel days are just that, travel days. We use the time to get settled, get our bearings and plan for the coming days.

The rain had disappeared and the day had turned beautiful.

Zweisimmen
Zweisimmen
Zweisimmen
Zweisimmen, view from our balcony

We had linner/aperitivo/dinner on our balcony. We’d picked up a lovely Spanish Rioja in Denner; it was so good that Bill went back to get a second bottle for later (7.15 chf on sale and really good).

We checked the weather forecast, worked out the specifics for our Gstaad Guest Card and came up with a plan for the coming days.

To be continued...
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 10:40 AM
  #48  
Loving your detailed report Mel.
thanks for posting
Bookmarking my April trip
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 11:10 AM
  #49  
Thank you Paragkash!
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 11:50 AM
  #50  
Sept 28 - Sunday waterfalls

We had a plan, so we were up early. It was 31F, with a high of 50 expected, so I put on thin thermals under thin hiking pants, wanting to be warm, but not overwarm, then donned my fleece jacket and fleece hat.

Bill braved it in his thin hiking pants, but had back-ups in the backpack.

We walked to the Bahnhof and took the 9:07 am train to Lenk im Simmental, then connected to Bus 283 to Simmenfälle, all free with our Gstaad Card.

There was a young couple on board the train who were stressing about making their bus connection; upon arrival, the young woman rushed off the train, then became frantic, not knowing where the bus station was.

It was amusing to watch, especially as we’ve been there, done that. She was also wearing shorts, and we worried for her legs, knowing that the falls would probably be completely shaded and cold until early afternoon this time of year.

Note: Swiss trains and bus connections are finely tuned; bus stations are usually right next to train stations, but even if not, the SBB app tells you how long a walk it is and the connection time is usually more than sufficient.

We’d visited Lenk im Simmental on previous winter trips and have toyed with staying there, but have yet to do so.

The bus to Simmenfälle was busy on this Sunday. Once there we walked the five minutes to the base of the falls, and then began the climb up to Barbarabrücke, at the upper part of the Simmenfälle.

Base of Simmenfälle
Base of Simmenfälle

It was a well-graded wide path, but steep. We eventually reached the Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant and continued walking to Sibe Brünne, The Seven Wells, the source of the Simme River, situated on a mountain at the foot of a limestone cliff.

Walking up to Barbarabrücke
Walking up to Barbarabrücke

Views from Barbarabrücke
Views near Barbarabrücke
Views near Barbarabrücke
Near Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant
Near Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant
Sibe Brünne
Sibe Brünne

https://lenk-simmental.ch/en/experie...d-simmenfaelle

It was a gorgeous hike; there were a lot of other hikers and families out on this beautiful Sunday.

We continued walking towards Langermatte, the highest point of this particular hike, not planning to go that far as I’d read it was pretty strenuous. We eventually backtracked, stopping at the Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant for a beverage on their now sunny terrace; helping ourselves from the self-service drinks station set up in a water trough.

Walking towards Langermatte
Walking towards Langermatte
Walking towards Langermatte
Walking towards Langermatte
More interesting fungi
More interesting fungi
Returning to Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant
Returning to Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant
Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant
Siebenbrunnen Alprestaurant

Afterwards, we worked our way back down to the Simmenfälle bus stop, me zig-zagging down the steep trail as it was wreaking havoc on my knees.

Return walk to Simmenfälle bus stop
Return walk to Simmenfälle bus stop

We saw the bus pull in below us, and made a mad dash to catch it, making it with about a minute to spare (2:14 pm bus).

Back in Lenk we waffled about whether to look for a place for lunch - not expecting to find much open on a Sunday - but decided to return to Zweisimmen instead as our train was right there and ready to leave.

Back in Zweisimmen, I Googled to see if there were any restaurants open this late (3:00 pm). I found Fiore Pizzeria Focacceria, so we followed the GPS and sure enough it was open; we picked up some pizza (33 chf and really good) and took it back to the apartment to eat on our balcony.

Later we walked up to the Zweisimmen Reformed Church and walked through the beautiful cemetery. The last time we were here Bill said it was the prettiest setting for a church and cemetery he’d ever seen; he’s right, it’s gorgeous. We then followed a random trail up alongside the cemetery for a bit then turned back.

Zweisimmen Reformed Church
Zweisimmen Reformed Church
Cemetery
Cemetery
Cemetery
Cemetery
Cemetery
Cemetery
Walking path alongside the cemetery
Walking path alongside the cemetery

A lovely day indeed; we’d logged 6.7 miles.

To be continued...
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 01:26 PM
  #51  
Mel! Loving this as usual! I'm always in awe of how you find all these lesser know places, the gondolas / chair lifts, and all those hiking trails. My knees are hurting too by reading this.

A somewhat related question - what are your go-to brands for rain gear? After hiking in rain and snow for 4 hrs this past summer in Denali with my new LL Bean "rain jacket" - only to have it soaked through, I need some better brands! We are heading to Norway next summer and I hear it rains a lot there For rain pants, do you have ones that are shell-like that you just slip on on top of your other pants? And do you have a cover for your backpacks?

P.S. I'm gonna have to ask you / other Swiss experts for suggestions for short day hike in Lucerne... heading there for a music weekend in May but will have a free day.
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 02:12 PM
  #52  
So beautiful. Your photos leave me salivating, although the "non-views" is amusing to say the least. We've all been there before.
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 02:18 PM
  #53  
yk - sadly our hiking is slowing down, we're getting old.

My Gortex jacket is from LL Bean - I haven't had any issues with wet out, but I've had to retire an older LL Bean stowaway jacket due to wet out.

Bill has an LL Bean Gortex parka, but doesn't wear it much as it's so bulky to pack - this year he took his REI waterproof jacket which is just a shell - it worked fine, as we didn't have any torrential rain.

We both have LL Bean rain suits - the rubber variety. The pants just slip over your other pants; they've been around the world with us and they work great. The rubber jackets work great too, but they don't breathe, causing us to sweat when hiking, so we usually wear our Gortex jackets instead.

It's less of a brand thing and more of a fabric thing - Gortex is the best we've found. You might try giving that Bean jacket a good coat of Scotch Guard.

Yes, we have waterproof covers for the backpacks too.
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 04:04 PM
  #54  
Ah, thanks Mel. My LL Bean "rain jacket" isn't gore-tex (given the low price). I do see they sell a true gore tex rain jacket, maybe that will be my xmas present to myself this year. (and drats, i turned down my MIL's Bean GC this year and told her to donate the $ instead, because i thought I didn't need any more stuff from LL Bean). My husband wore his 30+ year-old gore tex rain jacket on that Alaska hike and he stayed dry.
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 04:31 PM
  #55  
Oh wow. A mountainous trip has been on my list for so long.
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Dec 8th, 2025 | 11:29 PM
  #56  
Hello yk (sorry Mel for the off-topic digression), how long (time, length) and how much difference in height (up, down, with your knees) do you want to hike in May in Lucerne? Are you there for the Pulse 2026 Lucerne festival, the Sound of Hans Zimmer & John Williams, or which music weekend? Note that early May or late May could make a big difference in the altitude of the snowline, hence which trails are clean to hike.
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Dec 9th, 2025 | 06:19 AM
  #57  
yk - Too bad about that gift card! I just got a sale notification from LL Bean this morning - they're having a sale on outerwear. Gortex certainly isn't cheap, but it's reliable and should last many years. I've had mine longer than I can remember. I bought a size up so I could easily wear it over a fleece jacket for warmth.

It's sort of like this:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1000...gore-tex&pos=1

A rain suit will be cheaper, but if you spend a lot of time outdoors, Gortex is probably the way to go - it breathes unlike rubber:

Our rain pants are like this:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1220...%20pants&pos=1

Here's the matching jacket:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1220...20jacket&pos=1

You might take a look at Lands End too.
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Dec 9th, 2025 | 07:30 AM
  #58  
Hi Melnq8,
I just started reading your awesome trip report! I haven't finished but so far, I love what I've read, and your photos are stunning. The scenery really is special and dramatic. I am curious what you think of being gone for so long. Did you find it tiring after awhile? Would you do a 6+ week trip again? I know that after spending 6 weeks in Australia/New Zealand last year, and 5 weeks in Italy this year, (which we don't regret doing), I think our preferred length is 3 weeks.
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Dec 9th, 2025 | 09:57 AM
  #59  
I am tagging along too. Kudos to your stamina for the hike down the steep mountain. I would have gotten black toes from doing the steep hike like yours.
Beautiful journey!
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Dec 9th, 2025 | 10:09 AM
  #60  
Quote: yk - Too bad about that gift card! I just got a sale notification from LL Bean this morning - they're having a sale on outerwear. Gortex certainly isn't cheap, but it's reliable and should last many years. I've had mine longer than I can remember. I bought a size up so I could easily wear it over a fleece jacket for warmth.

It's sort of like this:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1000...gore-tex&pos=1

A rain suit will be cheaper, but if you spend a lot of time outdoors, Gortex is probably the way to go - it breathes unlike rubber:

Our rain pants are like this:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1220...%20pants&pos=1

Here's the matching jacket:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1220...20jacket&pos=1

You might take a look at Lands End too.
Haha, Mel, I was eyeing that Pathfinder Goretex jacket yesterday after you mentioned it. Gulping at the price tag, though I don't mind the color of the one on sale (still gulping at the price tag). But if it is rain-proof and last a long time, then it's probably a good investment!

I actually have the Trail Model Rain Jacket! That's the one that soaked through during my hike even though the jacket was barely 1year old. I did not realize they have women's rain pants, I guess I have to get them too. This trip to norway suddenly has gotten a lot more expensive, lol.


Quote: Hello yk (sorry Mel for the off-topic digression), how long (time, length) and how much difference in height (up, down, with your knees) do you want to hike in May in Lucerne? Are you there for the Pulse 2026 Lucerne festival, the Sound of Hans Zimmer & John Williams, or which music weekend? Note that early May or late May could make a big difference in the altitude of the snowline, hence which trails are clean to hike.
Finsteraarhorn, I don't want to hijack Mel's fantastic TR any more than I already have. I'll put out a separate post at later time, but yes, it is the second week of the Pulse festival. Concert tickets acquired this morning.
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