I think if I were trying an 'all chateau' trip, I would have added that one. Someone had mentioned it. I just decided OK, somewhere, for one or two night on this trip, let's reel in the budget a bit.

As it turned out, this was a good spot because we spent the entire evening outside looking at the lights on the Mont.

Glad you're enjoying.

Saturday

We had petite dejeuner in the sunroom.

We had no problem getting to Pleyben by 1Pm where I took pictures of the cathedral close.

During my trip planning someone mentioned that I was bypassing a lot of interesting places in order to see the far western tip of Brittany. This is true, but if I come back to Brittany I may be older or maybe on a train or tour. Hence it would be easier to see that area around St. Malo, Cap Frehel (sp), the coastline there, etc.

In Pleyben there was a neat-looking restaurant (The White Ermine) but it would not open until evening. During the trip I had been reading Cornwell's "The Archer's Tale" which hit many of the areas in France which we were seeing. When my husband started reading it later, he said the "White Ermine" was the hearald of the Duke of Brittany.

We drove on to Locronan which was bigger than I expected. No buses. One can't drive their car in. Not too awfully many tourist shops. Here we had our first fromage crepe. It reminded me a bit of quesadilla.

There were lots of grey stone buildings with bright blue doors, lace curtains, and wisteria over the doors. My husband also met the requisite black and white cat. It was very scenic and probably very touristy in summer. I like the Provence wheelbarrow blue and notice that the Brittany blue was brighter and more strident.

I once read a book on the different local building stones in England. I love how one can identify immediately where they are by looking at the architecture. Neither of us understood why most Loire buildings do not have any color on their shutters. Driving through some of the Loire villages in the daytime was a bit ugly. Heresey, I know.

We stopped at Douarnenez Bay and watched the sailboats. It was a pretty spot. We had been booked at the Relais and Chateaux Anne Plage up the bay as far back as November. In the spring they cancelled on us because they had booked the whole building for a wedding. Odd, huh?

We went on to Audierne and stayed at Le Goyen. (Thanks for the suggestion Ger). We were pleasantly surprised at what a nice hotel it was and that it had an ELEVATOR. Our room had two balconied windows and was a great size. We loved the outdoor motorized shutters that came down at night to shut out all the noise. Their staff was helpful as well.

We found it odd that 99% of the white houses across the river did not have lights at night. Maybe summer vacation homes and it wasn't summer yet? Audierne reminded us a a bit of Honfleur, but less tourist oriented.

I bought an antique brass towel ring.

Next: the highlight of our trip

Just catching up on this! Great report so far.

As for Mothers Day, its different in Europe and the UK than N. America. In the UK its the first Sunday in Mar (Mar 3 this year) and in France it was the last Sunday in May (May 25)...we were in France when it was celebrated.

Looking forward to your highlights!

Jamikins, May 25 was the day we flew home.

Sunday May 18 After breakfast in the hotel's nice restaurant we headed for Pointe du Raz. We did the loop walk as the weather was good. The ocean looked surprisingly tame; not what I expected at all. Even on a nice day at the Oregon coast you will get noise and wave action. Maybe it's not tame in winter.

The hotel held our luggage for us. However, it looked like there was enough activity in the parking lot that it would have probably been safe there.

Another surprise to me during the last two days of driving was how heavily populated western Brittany was. Maybe I was expecting something like the Land's End area of Cornwall looked 10 years ago.

After learning that the shops in Quimper closed on Sunday, we decided to drive to our room instead. Plus, having learned what my 30 year-old Henriot faience salt/pepper shakers now sell for, I decided that at my age I don't need more of that stuff anyway.

Hence we arrived at Chateau Guilguffin earlier than planned and finally realized they were hosting a wedding outdoors. Since some of the guests were wandering around taking pictures of boar-topped stone pillars, rhododendron avenues and the horsedrawn cart, I'm afraid I did too.

Apparently there had been something there originally as early as 1010. The current restoration story and interruption by 1986 hurricane was an interesting one.

This was my favorite of all our places to stay. The decor alone would have made it my favorite but the owners and their employee were warm and friendly as well.

Our upstairs bedroom was a lovely teal-colored Moyenne toile fabric paneled onto the walls in 18th century fashion. There were 3 oriental rugs, a fireplace, and two windows in the corner room. The bed was huge. The bathroom (although it had a tub/not shower stall) was large and airy with a transom window into our hallway.

There were areas on stairways and public spaces where one was reminded they were in an old stone castle. The kitchen was huge with the long French farmhouse table, working fireplace started with bellows in the morning, and washed blue base cabinetry. I never saw a stove. I'm not sure where it was. (Perhaps in the owner's quarters at the far other end of the building). The little sitting room off the grand salon was in an exuberant red and white toile which I've also seen in magazines. It's one of those grandiose patterns like boats and plumed headed soldiers, etc, the type of thing one might expect to see in the bar at the Empress in Victoria.

The grounds, entrance, and horse pasture had stone pillars. There was a stag gracing a pool out in the center.

When we arrived, kids were getting rides in a cart behind a huge light-colored workhorse.

They recommended a restaurant about 2km away and the meal was cheap and excellent.

We had very good weather almost all of our trip. One night near the D-Day beaches we had a brief thundershower. Another guest at the hotel had driven to Giverney and back to Bayeux and said it rained so hard they almost had to stop.

Anyway, at Guilguffin we had an evening thunderstorm (quite spectacular) and lost power for a few minutes. Since we were the only guests staying in the building, it was a bit weird feeling.

Both this house and our next stay are featured in a book I have, "French Country Hideaways". However, when I was planning my itinerary, I did not realize they were close to where I was traveling. It took someone else's report on Fodors to alert me to the possibility of fitting them in.

I really hope I'm not boring you with detail. When I did research for my last two trips, it was disheartening to be sitting up at midnight, hitting the search key for a town or a hotel, reading 20 pages of trip report, then NOTHING but a mention. I wanted more than, yes, we stayed at the Bide a Wee Inn, I wanted was the bed lumpy, was the shower good, was the view laden with pastures of sheep, etc.

No, no, no! htt - I love these kinds of details! I tend to write very detailed trip report as well, as I hope it'll benefit the next person planning his/her trip who stumbled upon my TR! Please carry on.

NO...we love details!!!! Keep it coming!!!!

Detais are our sustenance.

Thanks, guys, and yk I've been reading your latest. It does help to get some feedback.

Monday We had a lengthy enjoyable petite dejeuner at Chateau Guilguiffin. The owners chatted with us at breakfast. It's always embarrassing how much more Europeans (and Canadians) know about our politics. I'm not even sure I can spell Sarkozy.

I had planned this trip around stopping at Quimper to look at or buy faience. Guess what! It didn't happen. Maybe the copper was enough, or maybe I just realized that I have no grandchildren to bequeath little yellow pieces of pottery to. (I can still enjoy my salt shakers of yore). My over-educated son rides a bike back and forth to work at a restaurant in Portland. (that's the greenie part of the family)

OK, so reluctantly we left far western Brittany. We had a brief stop and lunch at Pont Aven made famous by artists of the past. Mimi and Grandmere will ask what happened. I don't know. Somehow didn't have lunch at their mentioned moulin although I saw it. Maybe DH?

Then, on to Carnac. The Carnac stones were shorter than Stonehenge but were in perfect alignment. I'm sort of amazed they allowed so much building around and close to the site. Maybe the stones had been there so many years the novelty wore off.

We encountered heavy truck traffic arund Vannes late in the day.

Finally we arrived at Chateau Talhouett (also in my book). There's something intriguing about staying places where the directions say 'folow signs in fields'. He gave us an upgrade to a bigger, more expensive room so we wouldn't have to be on the third floor. I think there was one other couple staying that night.

The giant Irish Wolfhound and little scruffums dog were friendly. Scruffums wanted some attention too, but the Wolfhound was not going to allow it. I don't think they have to worry about anyone breaking in.

Chateau Talhouett had a beautiful, beautiful salon all tastefully lit at night. It's too bad there weren't more guests. I stood and pictured well-dressed, quiet-speaking people having drinks, studying pictures, musing through the table of books and magazines.

The owner was cooking a nice turbot that night, but due to the seafood allergy, off we went to Rochefort en Terre for dinner at one of the two dark little creperies we found open. Now, they were odd. We were ordered to sit way back in a tight corner table while the entire room was empty. (we're not overly funny-looking) Finally I decided that tables were maybe numbered to match the rooms upstairs. However, no one else came in during the entire time! I had a not so good little green salad and DH had a chicken. I had to convince him it was REALLY a chicken. He's used to those steroid inflated things we get in US. The beer he ordered never showed up. (see Wed-Thurs entries)

Although we loved the chateau, we would not go out of our way to see this, yet another, beautiful little village of France.

The grounds at Talhouett were also blooming and beautiful. Out along a stone garden wall the roses were blooming. Our room had a large fireplace--as DH said, bigger than some Paris hotel rooms! The room was huge with cross ventilation and the heavy curtains were sound-deadening. The bed may have been the best of the trip. (DH comment: any room where the 'reds' disappear when open is a big one. The 'reds' are my 2 suitcases.)

Oh wow, hopingto travel! We stayed at both Guilgiffin and Talhoet. It's so cool to hear your takes on them. We loved them.

Thanks for all the details.

Iwan2go, did you meet the wolfhound too? If you stayed at both chateaus, it may have been your report that alerted me that both were quite near our travel route.

Wednesday

Our breakfast this morning was good. We had a lengthy conversation with a couple traveling from Canada, then were off.

That day we drove to Saumur and stayed at Anne d'Anjou where the staff spoke English and were polite and solicitous.

On the way we stopped at LaCorneche restaurant a bit east of Chalonnes.We had a very good lunch. DH had maigret something and I had goat cheese jambon on tor???something with onion. They were full of locals eating which was one reason we stopped.

That evening in Saumur I was chilling, sleepy, and did not want dinner. DH reports that the town was interesting to walk around in and he watched people on the river. Nice for him!

The next day's schedule called for seeing Fontevard Abbey and Chinon. I've read many books on Eleanor of Aquitane and was looking forward to it. I spent almost all day in bed saying, "je sui mal". By afternoon DH was in bed as well. We can only track it back to the possibility of lettuce the night in Rochefort. I had an entire salad; DH had a small bit of lettuce with his chicken. It was the only thing we had both eaten.

Thursday

Feeling much better, but a bit afraid to tackle huge meals we drove to Amboise. We toured Azay l'Rideau on the way. I wasn't too impressed although I can see how it might look neat lit up at night. On our last trip we had seen Chenenceau, then Chambord.

Next we saw the formal gardens at Villandry where the roses were blooming. It was nice. I had known what to expect from TV. Sissinghurst is still my favorite style of garden. BTW, neither of the two were crowded.

That night we stayed at Le Clos d'Amboise. It was featured in a magazine article I had, and some Fodorites had stayed there. Last trip we stayed at Les Minnimes. I was just trying for variety. Also, having spent quite a lot on some earlier stays, was willing to pay a bit less.

Le Clos d'Amboise was an old but pleasant place with a small parc with lots of old stone garden pieces, benches, a tuteur, pottery rabbits, etc. There was also what looked like a nice swimming pool, and large trees.

It was an easy walk everywhere. Friday morning we went to Le Clos, Leonardo da Vinci's house. My goodness, he invented everything. It was full of touring French school students, maybe 12 years of age. They were incredibly well-behaved compared to how their US counterparts would act.

Had an excellent penne bolognaise at a sidewalk cafe for lunch. That night we had a good club sandwich at Le Shaker and an old fashioned.

Saturday We were up early but had to wait a bit for breakfast, then to get out the gate. I like to avoid the early truck traffic and knew we had a grueling drive, However, nothing like the people at the next table who planned to drive 7 hours to St. Remy!

We stopped at Chartres. I had to coerce DH into doing this, and driving into the terrifying (5 floors down) underground car park made for teeny little cars. Because I live in AK, I always think 'earthquake, earthquake'.

The cathedral was soaring. I was glad I had read Follett's book a few years ago. It made it so much more meaningful. Plus, I'd read a bit on the time difference between the two towers, and the stained glass, etc.

It was amazing inside. The arches and groins with the towers were just neckbreaking to try and see it all. Even DH said he would not have missed it. He said it made him understand why the medieval people were so religious.

Traffic to Paris wasn't horrendous but for some reason when we got off at Pont d'Orleans, we were headed out not in to Paris.

After asking for directions a couple of times we found the parking garage to turn in the car. There was some poor guy in the Europecar garage wandering around wondering what to do with his car keys (probably because the sign to drop them in a slot was in French).

We stayed that night at the Hotel Saint-Beuve and were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to a room with a lovely, recently remodeled bathroom.

We walked up and down Montparnasse Blvd, peeked in some of the famous old spots so I could tell myself I'd been there.

We had an adequate dinner at somewhere non-famous and a glass of wine at The Dome.

One of my pet peeves on the trip was that after having spent nearly 10 years with tapes, videos, books, and a few classes, attempting to learn French, I feel somewhat successful with it. Yet waiters take one look at my curly blond hair and bring us the English menu!

Sunday: Our desk clerk gave us cups/saucers of coffee while we waited for our taxi, then we were off to CDG (only about 45 min that time of morning). Flights home were uneventful. We caught a standby with Alaska Air from Seattle and were home 4 hours earlier than expected.

Lovely report, thanks again for the details!

Thanks yk. I'm looking forward to a bit of lull before I plan the next one. The dollar vs euro is going to have to change!

great report! thanks for all the details!

Thanks lilaki.

Just finished reading "Old Bones", a murder mystery set near Mont St-Michel. Having just done the trip made it so much for vivid for me.

Topping for Fraya.

Topping for ts_lvs2travel

77 degrees is cool for me, but it's over 100 in Texas right now so it's all relative.

I too, had trouble with the French keyboard. Man, my standard 70WPM typing became 20WPM.

Yes, my relatives wondered why they got such short, cryptic e-mails from me.