Paris When it Sizzles/What the Germans Saw on D-Day/Brittany When it Thunders
 

What follows is our May 6-25 trip from Anchorage to Paris, then Normandy/Brittany/Loire back to Paris. It was our second trip to Paris. I know Paris has been written to death so will try to keep it low on detail. Also, we don't eat horrifically expensive meals or photograph our food, so if that's what you're looking for you won't find it here.

We spent the night of May 6 in Seattle just to make sure of catching our Air France flight. The next day we had a pleasant flight to CDG.

We spent the first three days at the D'Aubusson. (I had booked it last fall so of course it became $50 a day more expensive by the time we arrived!) The standard room was adequate for our 3 suitcases, although the chairs could use new upholstery. The courtyard was lovely. There were bathrobes, and double windows which kept the sound out. We were on the 4th floor but above the street. They had a lovely salon and fireplace which would be enticing in winter. Also, they showed me how to use the computer with the impossible French keyboard.

The afternoon of our arrival was the VE day holiday so lots of people out. It was around 77 degrees. Keep in mind we had 13" of snow in our yard 10 days before. We were on the edge of miserable! There were 2-block long lines at Notre Dame, which we didn't even attempt as DH will not stand in lines. The Paris sidewalks were a bit slimy but I didn't see any dog poop.

I think dinner that night was French onion soup on Rue de Buci.

Friday It was very hot again. The next two mornings we had breakfast at Paul's -- 22 euros for 4 coffee grandes and the 1 egg omelet. The mushroom omelet was perfect. The 'complet' was a bit too wet. Say what you will about the cliche, but we do enjoy the food and people watching at Paul's. A young French woman apologized for the taciturn service we were seeing. It didn't bother me a bit. I recalled the server from 3 years ago and if she can handle that many tables at once, more power to her.

3 years ago we did the Pont Neuf Vedettes and saw the Musee d'Orsay, but spent almost no time on the Right Bank.

So, we caught the Batobus at the Notre Dame stop and got off at the Eiffel Tower. After standing WAY back for a picture we crossed to the Trocadero. Now that was a HOT climb. From there we walked up Kleber to the Arc de Triumph. We were grateful to you guys for having been told about the (slightly hidden) elevator. DH has had 4 knee surgeries and hates stairs--although he carried lots of luggage up and down on this trip.

The Orangerie will have to wait, as we didn't make it through my full schedule.

There were lots of beautiful sneeze-causing trees in bloom--maybe horse chestnuts. Also the flower stalls near the Seine were full of giant white hydrangeas and rhododendrons.

That night we had dinner at Christine's. I had scallops in Thai tea sauce and mashed potatoes. The cost was not prohibitive--maybe like a very nice dinner in Anchorage.

We cooled in our hotel courtyard with wine, then later listened to jazz at our hotel. At 10:50 we went out on Pont Neuf to watch the Eiffel and monuments light up. It was like a truly magical party with people out everywhere cheering when the boats went by, etc.

Saturday Still too warm, but nice and cool inside the Cluny. I was pleasantly surprised it was free (although my MC bill tells me I managed to spend $90 there). I had been told the old building is part of the charm and it was. We both loved the Lady and the Unicorn and sat looking at the tapestries for quite awhile. I was surprised DH was equally enthralled. It was also interesting to see some real examples of things one reads about in medieval novels--gold bishop miters, etc.

From there to watch people and cars awhile on Blvd St. Germain.

That night we also had dinner in Rue Christine. Can't remember the restaurant--maybe Fernand's? I had incredibly good curried lamb on rice. One of the 2 nights DH had duck.

Again, jazz, and watching the lights. This time they included a motorcycle parade covered in strobe lights.

Next: Heading West

Sunday morning of what we didn't realize may have been 4 days of holiday for some of the French.

We took a taxi to the car rental (Europecar) near the Montparnasse SNCF. People we saw at breakfast from Australia were also there renting.

Our car was a BMW navy diesel with a stick. DH said it didn't use too much gas.

There was heavy traffic and tailbacks all the way to Vernon. Also, it was Mother's Day--do the French celebrate?

At Giverney the tulips were nearly done, but the peonies, clematis, rhodies and azaleas were all blooming. The bridge was drenched in clematis. I STILL want espaliered cherry trees.

Although my picture of the bridge has about 10 people on it, it is a neat shot. They all looked like tender couples with their heads together or checking camera settings. It was a bit like Norman Rockwell.

Finding Les Andelys by the route that follwed the river was not as easy as before. We arrived again at L' Chaine D'Or. I am wondering if they are under new management. This time the staff did speak English but didn't seem as friendly. Or as DH would say, the waitress there was almost the only unfriendly person we met in 3 weeks. I again had the tarte tatin with Calvados which was still incredible. I also had a filet with mashed potatoes.

When I bought a couple of red toile placemats at a nearby shop, I didn't tell the clerk I had been just sick I passed them up 3 years ago. It was nice to see they were actually made in France.

There has been some discussion of the current quality of L'Chaine d'Or. We had the exact same room as last time. Yes, I think it could use a bit of sprucing. Also, it could use a new mattress. Plus there was crackling as if from a rubber mattress pad. What's with that?

This trip we peeked in the old church across the street and were surprised at its stained glass. From the outside it looks austered.

Again, we enjoyed watching the river and the lovely swans and speculating about the house on the island. This time it wasn't raining and we got to sit out on the terrace and read.

Next: to the coast

I'm enjoying reading about your trip, HTT! Our room 3 yrs. ago at Chaine d'Or at approx. same time in May had a bit of a musty odor, and the hotel probably does need some sprucing up. But what a beautiful, tranquil setting!

Eager to hear of Normandy and Brittany.

We did this trip in September and am enjoying your report as it brings back fond memories.

Loved La Chaine d'Or. We landed the day we stayed there and the walk along the Seine was so relaxing and the day so beautiful. Had a wonderful dinner that evening, and only recall that we ate too much.

DH said he would still recommend the hotel because of the wonderful setting and the food.

I'm sure you dined at Chez Fernand, just a few doors down from Le Christine. It's one of our favorites and is always on "The List" for our Paris trips.

OK, I'm discovering that when I try to preview and edit, it bumps me out, then accepts what I have anyway. Sorry, my maps are put away, so you'll have to forgive mispellings and typos.

Avalon, thanks, it was one of the best meals I've had in a long time.

Grandmere, I remember when you got rained on in Normandy. I took a raincoat, rainhat, and even glove liners.

OK, I've lost a whole page, so bear with me if it shows up later.

Monday

We got a late start. The breakfast is still excellent.

We somehow missed a turn (even with the map, print-outs from via. Michellin and paragraphs from Underhill and Stu's itineraries.) This sometimes happens with DH driving. So, consequently we missed Abbe Jumieges etc, as well as seeing tht big bend of the Seine. Sorry Jean, maybe next time.

Therefore, I felt we had time to pull off at Pont St. Eveque (sp) and look around. However, the streets were seriously clogged with traffic. The town itself reminded me of Stratford on Avon. So, we left on a back highway and saw Beaumont en Auge -- absolutely scenic. The Normandy countryside between there and the ocean eas bucolic, blooming, full of cows, and very prosperous looking. However, we couldn't find places to pull over for a shot.

We popped out at the ocean and I enjoyed seeing the famous striped Deauville umbrellas. DH wanted to walk on the beach, and not realizing it was his last opportunity, we didn't stop. We drove the Grace corniche to Honfleur and arrived by 2:30.

By 4:30 we noticed that Honfleur had 20 minute tailbacks so counted ourselves lucky.

L'Ecrin was an incredibly pleasant surprise. Our room was upstairs right over the flag. I prefer to call it "Deauville Blue". The bathroom had obviously been recently and expensively remodeled and had a great shower. Unfortunately, none of the lights worked. As it didn't get dark until bedtime this wasn't a major problem. Probably just a fuse or something. They couldn't seem to figure it out. In the morning there was a rose-clored sky outlining St. Catherine's.

The little harbor area of Honfleur was also a pleasant surprise, althugh somehow I had expected to see out to ocean. There were lots of tourists eating outdoors and shopping. I loved hearing the church bells. We had streetside buckwheat galletes with scallops. I can pass on the buckwheat. We talked with some Flemish and Belgians at dinner.

An insert here: I can't remember where DH had oysters but he said the Puget Sound oysters are better and Alaska oysters are bigger.

We could have easily spent another evening there lounging around the lovely back garden. It was still warm and we sat around with our books, Sancerre and Calvados.

Enjoying, and looking forward to your experiences of Brittany!

Two things I forgot to mention:
although I got some great pictures, I'm still in the pre-digital dark ages, so I won't be putting them online.

Secondly, I studies French tapes, Capretz videos, books, a few classes, etc, for about 10 years and felt proficient in ordering my own food. It was dispiriting to me that the minute a waiter saw my curly blond hair, they showed up with an English menu.

Tuesday

Breakfast was good, but we were too early to see other guests. The geraniums in the sunroom were ceiling high and in full bloom. The guy running the hotel seemed to have a sense of humor. As DH said, he helps make it a place you'd want to return to.

We drove the back roads route de cider past L'Evaque and Lisieux, to Beaven au Auge which, though larger, was actually not as scenic as Beaumont Au Auge. We bought two teal towels and cider.

On to Chateau de Sully which was easy to find (between Bayeaux and Port de Bessin (or Bressin?)

Most of the staff spoke English and were nice. There was computer access, a swim pool which we didn't use, and pretty grounds. The room was a bit of a disappointment--probably because this is a big tourist area--for the price. Things kept sliding off the bedside table and there was no room to leave suitcases open. The breakfast waitress was 20 minutes late in starting one day. (I heard people saying they were afraid they'd miss their D-Day van pick-up).

That evening we ate a bite in Bayeux. We were early enough that Le Petite Bistro was closed. DH zipped me through my $27 tour of the tapestry which was irritating. We did walk around the inside of the cathedral with brilliant sun coming through the stained glass.

P.S. He is a nice guy; he was just making a lot of concessions to drive me around France when his idea of a vacation is to sit for 2 weeks under 1 palm tree on Maui!

That evening we had wine and books in the bar and watched the red sun set out over the ocean. We chatted with a Swiss widower who was traveling along the ocean with his daughter.

Next: Authentic D-Day weather

Errors: studied, not studies

tea towels, not teal towels

and it was Pont L'Eveque

As I mentioned, I can't seem to edit in the 'preview my reply'.

What room number did you stay in at LA CHAINE D'OR?

Cparis, oops, I see I was responding to your post before reading what you wrote on mine. I'm pretty sure it was room #10. As far as I'm concerned, the favorable attributes there still outweigh any unfavorable--and the room is huge.

Wednesday

It was raining when we left after our giant breakfast for the D-Day beaches. It rained very hard, then let up when we reached the American cemetery and Omaha Beach. Looking down the cliff at the beautiful greeness, it was hard for me to imagine what it must have been like on D-Day. However, the ocean was roiled and it was foggy offshore so I could picture what the Germans must have seen when they looked out to sea. The weather seemed very authentic.

The cemetery was a very emotional experience. Most of the visitors were our age or older. What happens when our generation is gone? People were speaking in whispers. The crosses seemed to go on and on. The memorial itself was informative and well done.

We then drove along the tiny beach road. We swooped around one corner and a German gun was pointing right at us. Kind of a shock! At the beach at Laurent S'Mer we saw the 'draw' which Easy Company had used to come off the beach. (The movies had helped with that one). Then we went to the little cafe nearby. Did someone say that was the first building liberated?

Next we went to Pointe du Hoc and looked at the large shell depressions and the many empty gun batteries. Some had been heavily shelled. The barbed wire was still there. One has to be impressed with the Rangers coming up over that cliff. If you're interested, there is a book called "The Boys of Pointe du Hoc". The second part of the book tells about Reagan's speech there and how it had revived interest.

Then we went to Longueville to see the German gun batteries--with the biggest guns. Then back to Sully. We did not see the German cemetery as it was a bit out of the way of our other itinerary and as you know, my driver only takes on so much per day.

At a later point in the trip, someone wanted to make sure we knew that 40,000 French were killed during the invasion as well.

We ate at the Chateau that night.

hi htt-
Enjoying your report.

Thursday

It was an easy drive to Ville de Deaux Poeles with its shops of copperware. DH said I was like a kid in a candy store. They were eager to wait on you and offered shipping. We ended up with the copper in our luggage. They pointed out that we wanted the Mauviel, made in France. Apparently there were some shops selling oriental copper?

I bought a medium size lidded casserole with stainless handles, a large saucepan, and a skimmer (to hang on my rail). I recently read the long thread about French copper which someone was trying to buy in Paris. It's good to know that price comparing with WS or Sur La Table may not work as the weight and quality are different. Plus, I'll be able to look at it and always remember "I bought it in France".

Stu, I use a gas range. One night I left the burner on under a fish saute pan and discolored the copper off. I'm considering using my pots sparingly and maybe even being one of those persons who cooks a veggie or casserole then scoops it off and serves it in my copper. How cheesy is that?

Next, we went on to Mont St. Michel. The termperature was a bit more pleasant. We went up the hill from about 2pm to 4pm. Aside from one tour bus the crowds weren't bad. The town reminded me a bit of St. Paul de Vence, but less interesting. However, I did get home with some neat pictures of rooftops and chimney pots taken from above. We had wine at Le Croix Blanc.

We stayed at Le Digue which I absolutely would not recommend unless you are young, want something cheaper just to crash for the night, and don't mind parking lot noise and tour groups. The shower was only tepid. The toilet faced the tub less than 6" away. The pillows and bed were OK but the window curtains were too short to cut the light.

The Relaix St. Michel appeared to be the 'big brother' hotel and was actually a step closer to the causeway. After finding crumbs on both our coffee cups, we went across the street to it the next morning and had a not so great, but more expensive breakfast. Le Digue reminded me of a very basic hotel someone would find on a state highway in rural Idaho or something.

During the evening we walked back out the causeway (along with many others) and filmed the mountain lighting up. That was a magical experience and made the choice to stay overnight quite worthwhile. It is truly beautiful.

Next: on to Brittany

"It was an easy drive to Ville de Deaux Poeles with its shops of copperware"

I'm enjoying your trip report, but for those looking for copperwear, the town is actually Villedieu-les-Poêles.

Thanks laverendrye. As mentioned, I had already put my maps away so I'm butchering some spellings.

BTW, I never would have heard of this little town if it hadn't been for Fodorites.

Friday we left for Dinard. We had planned to walk along the coast near Cancale but we got too late a start and it was semi-foggy so we didn't. I had planned to do that after seeing Ger's inspiring pictures on Fodor's. Darn, may have to go back some day.

After reaching Dinard we drove into some lovely, old neighborhoods with the clifftop houses above the Clair de Lune Promenade. I think both Stu D and Underhill had mentioned these. There was a fountain and small garden with a few nice restaurants nearby.

We had an excellent lunch. Scott had steamed roughy and I had one of the best salads ever (and I'm not a green salad fan), and a decent chardonnay.

We had planned to also go to Dinan and walk around some. However, DH's seafood/iodine allergy kicked in. He had forgotten to bring his Benadryl so was fairly miserable. We also passed a noted garden above the Rance River which I wanted to see. (I didn't mention it to him).

We decided to go straight to Manoir de la Rance. It took a bit to find Jouvente. Going through Pleurtuit didn't work. Is Jouvente only about 3 blocks long?

Oddly, they had sent me two letters during the course of my booking. When we stayed at the hotel, I saw little fliers with a map on them. Boy, that would have helped! I ran into this at other hotels. If some of them had the info on their websites that you get when you leave, it would be much easier.

The view of the Rance was abslutely stunning. The Manoir's extensive gardens were in bloom. Madame says her mother tends them. They are a lovely complement to the turn of the last century house, full of little trails, statues, lawn chairs, greenhouse etc. It was a fun stay although I felt a bit like I was invading someone's home. The room (Deauville blue again) was decorated in a lightweight blue and white cotton toile. It was roomy and looked out over the river. The bathroom was nice. The beds were tightly tucked twins.

The Petite chien (Chou Chou) I think, with a little round tummy followed DH everywhere--probably eager for some action.

I enjoyed the blooming calla lilies, fuschia, roses, geranium arbor, while sitting outside reading with my wine. Remember our recent snowfall? I've never even seen calla lilies growing in the ground! They sell them at the grocery and after a couple weeks they die.

The Rance had wide inlets, islands, and lots of sailboats. Maybe a wealthy area?

Directly below us was the Jersey Lillie Bar and the Cafe Gourmand restaurant. We had a terrine sanglier with curried onion. They told us it was rabbit. Isn't sanglier boar? DH confessed later he found a bristle. For 4e we had an organic Anjou blanc. Can't remember what else we ate.

By nightfall, the allergic reaction had subsided.

Next: a longer drive

Hi, hopingtotravel!

I am enjoying your trip report so much! We did much the same trip last summer. Luckily, we had tried to contact Le Digue near MSM, but they did not respond to our e-mail! We then went on to discover the absolutely wonderful Chateau Bouceel, and stayed there. When we drove to MSM and saw Le Digue, we knew we had totally lucked out!!

I think if I were trying an 'all chateau' trip, I would have added that one. Someone had mentioned it. I just decided OK, somewhere, for one or two night on this trip, let's reel in the budget a bit.

As it turned out, this was a good spot because we spent the entire evening outside looking at the lights on the Mont.

Glad you're enjoying.

Saturday

We had petite dejeuner in the sunroom.

We had no problem getting to Pleyben by 1Pm where I took pictures of the cathedral close.

During my trip planning someone mentioned that I was bypassing a lot of interesting places in order to see the far western tip of Brittany. This is true, but if I come back to Brittany I may be older or maybe on a train or tour. Hence it would be easier to see that area around St. Malo, Cap Frehel (sp), the coastline there, etc.

In Pleyben there was a neat-looking restaurant (The White Ermine) but it would not open until evening. During the trip I had been reading Cornwell's "The Archer's Tale" which hit many of the areas in France which we were seeing. When my husband started reading it later, he said the "White Ermine" was the hearald of the Duke of Brittany.

We drove on to Locronan which was bigger than I expected. No buses. One can't drive their car in. Not too awfully many tourist shops. Here we had our first fromage crepe. It reminded me a bit of quesadilla.

There were lots of grey stone buildings with bright blue doors, lace curtains, and wisteria over the doors. My husband also met the requisite black and white cat. It was very scenic and probably very touristy in summer. I like the Provence wheelbarrow blue and notice that the Brittany blue was brighter and more strident.

I once read a book on the different local building stones in England. I love how one can identify immediately where they are by looking at the architecture. Neither of us understood why most Loire buildings do not have any color on their shutters. Driving through some of the Loire villages in the daytime was a bit ugly. Heresey, I know.

We stopped at Douarnenez Bay and watched the sailboats. It was a pretty spot. We had been booked at the Relais and Chateaux Anne Plage up the bay as far back as November. In the spring they cancelled on us because they had booked the whole building for a wedding. Odd, huh?

We went on to Audierne and stayed at Le Goyen. (Thanks for the suggestion Ger). We were pleasantly surprised at what a nice hotel it was and that it had an ELEVATOR. Our room had two balconied windows and was a great size. We loved the outdoor motorized shutters that came down at night to shut out all the noise. Their staff was helpful as well.

We found it odd that 99% of the white houses across the river did not have lights at night. Maybe summer vacation homes and it wasn't summer yet? Audierne reminded us a a bit of Honfleur, but less tourist oriented.

I bought an antique brass towel ring.

Next: the highlight of our trip

Just catching up on this! Great report so far.

As for Mothers Day, its different in Europe and the UK than N. America. In the UK its the first Sunday in Mar (Mar 3 this year) and in France it was the last Sunday in May (May 25)...we were in France when it was celebrated.

Looking forward to your highlights!

Jamikins, May 25 was the day we flew home.

Sunday May 18 After breakfast in the hotel's nice restaurant we headed for Pointe du Raz. We did the loop walk as the weather was good. The ocean looked surprisingly tame; not what I expected at all. Even on a nice day at the Oregon coast you will get noise and wave action. Maybe it's not tame in winter.

The hotel held our luggage for us. However, it looked like there was enough activity in the parking lot that it would have probably been safe there.

Another surprise to me during the last two days of driving was how heavily populated western Brittany was. Maybe I was expecting something like the Land's End area of Cornwall looked 10 years ago.

After learning that the shops in Quimper closed on Sunday, we decided to drive to our room instead. Plus, having learned what my 30 year-old Henriot faience salt/pepper shakers now sell for, I decided that at my age I don't need more of that stuff anyway.

Hence we arrived at Chateau Guilguffin earlier than planned and finally realized they were hosting a wedding outdoors. Since some of the guests were wandering around taking pictures of boar-topped stone pillars, rhododendron avenues and the horsedrawn cart, I'm afraid I did too.

Apparently there had been something there originally as early as 1010. The current restoration story and interruption by 1986 hurricane was an interesting one.

This was my favorite of all our places to stay. The decor alone would have made it my favorite but the owners and their employee were warm and friendly as well.

Our upstairs bedroom was a lovely teal-colored Moyenne toile fabric paneled onto the walls in 18th century fashion. There were 3 oriental rugs, a fireplace, and two windows in the corner room. The bed was huge. The bathroom (although it had a tub/not shower stall) was large and airy with a transom window into our hallway.

There were areas on stairways and public spaces where one was reminded they were in an old stone castle. The kitchen was huge with the long French farmhouse table, working fireplace started with bellows in the morning, and washed blue base cabinetry. I never saw a stove. I'm not sure where it was. (Perhaps in the owner's quarters at the far other end of the building). The little sitting room off the grand salon was in an exuberant red and white toile which I've also seen in magazines. It's one of those grandiose patterns like boats and plumed headed soldiers, etc, the type of thing one might expect to see in the bar at the Empress in Victoria.

The grounds, entrance, and horse pasture had stone pillars. There was a stag gracing a pool out in the center.

When we arrived, kids were getting rides in a cart behind a huge light-colored workhorse.

They recommended a restaurant about 2km away and the meal was cheap and excellent.

We had very good weather almost all of our trip. One night near the D-Day beaches we had a brief thundershower. Another guest at the hotel had driven to Giverney and back to Bayeux and said it rained so hard they almost had to stop.

Anyway, at Guilguffin we had an evening thunderstorm (quite spectacular) and lost power for a few minutes. Since we were the only guests staying in the building, it was a bit weird feeling.

Both this house and our next stay are featured in a book I have, "French Country Hideaways". However, when I was planning my itinerary, I did not realize they were close to where I was traveling. It took someone else's report on Fodors to alert me to the possibility of fitting them in.

I really hope I'm not boring you with detail. When I did research for my last two trips, it was disheartening to be sitting up at midnight, hitting the search key for a town or a hotel, reading 20 pages of trip report, then NOTHING but a mention. I wanted more than, yes, we stayed at the Bide a Wee Inn, I wanted was the bed lumpy, was the shower good, was the view laden with pastures of sheep, etc.

No, no, no! htt - I love these kinds of details! I tend to write very detailed trip report as well, as I hope it'll benefit the next person planning his/her trip who stumbled upon my TR! Please carry on.

NO...we love details!!!! Keep it coming!!!!

Detais are our sustenance.

Thanks, guys, and yk I've been reading your latest. It does help to get some feedback.

Monday We had a lengthy enjoyable petite dejeuner at Chateau Guilguiffin. The owners chatted with us at breakfast. It's always embarrassing how much more Europeans (and Canadians) know about our politics. I'm not even sure I can spell Sarkozy.

I had planned this trip around stopping at Quimper to look at or buy faience. Guess what! It didn't happen. Maybe the copper was enough, or maybe I just realized that I have no grandchildren to bequeath little yellow pieces of pottery to. (I can still enjoy my salt shakers of yore). My over-educated son rides a bike back and forth to work at a restaurant in Portland. (that's the greenie part of the family)

OK, so reluctantly we left far western Brittany. We had a brief stop and lunch at Pont Aven made famous by artists of the past. Mimi and Grandmere will ask what happened. I don't know. Somehow didn't have lunch at their mentioned moulin although I saw it. Maybe DH?

Then, on to Carnac. The Carnac stones were shorter than Stonehenge but were in perfect alignment. I'm sort of amazed they allowed so much building around and close to the site. Maybe the stones had been there so many years the novelty wore off.

We encountered heavy truck traffic arund Vannes late in the day.

Finally we arrived at Chateau Talhouett (also in my book). There's something intriguing about staying places where the directions say 'folow signs in fields'. He gave us an upgrade to a bigger, more expensive room so we wouldn't have to be on the third floor. I think there was one other couple staying that night.

The giant Irish Wolfhound and little scruffums dog were friendly. Scruffums wanted some attention too, but the Wolfhound was not going to allow it. I don't think they have to worry about anyone breaking in.

Chateau Talhouett had a beautiful, beautiful salon all tastefully lit at night. It's too bad there weren't more guests. I stood and pictured well-dressed, quiet-speaking people having drinks, studying pictures, musing through the table of books and magazines.

The owner was cooking a nice turbot that night, but due to the seafood allergy, off we went to Rochefort en Terre for dinner at one of the two dark little creperies we found open. Now, they were odd. We were ordered to sit way back in a tight corner table while the entire room was empty. (we're not overly funny-looking) Finally I decided that tables were maybe numbered to match the rooms upstairs. However, no one else came in during the entire time! I had a not so good little green salad and DH had a chicken. I had to convince him it was REALLY a chicken. He's used to those steroid inflated things we get in US. The beer he ordered never showed up. (see Wed-Thurs entries)

Although we loved the chateau, we would not go out of our way to see this, yet another, beautiful little village of France.

The grounds at Talhouett were also blooming and beautiful. Out along a stone garden wall the roses were blooming. Our room had a large fireplace--as DH said, bigger than some Paris hotel rooms! The room was huge with cross ventilation and the heavy curtains were sound-deadening. The bed may have been the best of the trip. (DH comment: any room where the 'reds' disappear when open is a big one. The 'reds' are my 2 suitcases.)

Oh wow, hopingto travel! We stayed at both Guilgiffin and Talhoet. It's so cool to hear your takes on them. We loved them.

Thanks for all the details.

Iwan2go, did you meet the wolfhound too? If you stayed at both chateaus, it may have been your report that alerted me that both were quite near our travel route.

Wednesday

Our breakfast this morning was good. We had a lengthy conversation with a couple traveling from Canada, then were off.

That day we drove to Saumur and stayed at Anne d'Anjou where the staff spoke English and were polite and solicitous.

On the way we stopped at LaCorneche restaurant a bit east of Chalonnes.We had a very good lunch. DH had maigret something and I had goat cheese jambon on tor???something with onion. They were full of locals eating which was one reason we stopped.

That evening in Saumur I was chilling, sleepy, and did not want dinner. DH reports that the town was interesting to walk around in and he watched people on the river. Nice for him!

The next day's schedule called for seeing Fontevard Abbey and Chinon. I've read many books on Eleanor of Aquitane and was looking forward to it. I spent almost all day in bed saying, "je sui mal". By afternoon DH was in bed as well. We can only track it back to the possibility of lettuce the night in Rochefort. I had an entire salad; DH had a small bit of lettuce with his chicken. It was the only thing we had both eaten.

Thursday

Feeling much better, but a bit afraid to tackle huge meals we drove to Amboise. We toured Azay l'Rideau on the way. I wasn't too impressed although I can see how it might look neat lit up at night. On our last trip we had seen Chenenceau, then Chambord.

Next we saw the formal gardens at Villandry where the roses were blooming. It was nice. I had known what to expect from TV. Sissinghurst is still my favorite style of garden. BTW, neither of the two were crowded.

That night we stayed at Le Clos d'Amboise. It was featured in a magazine article I had, and some Fodorites had stayed there. Last trip we stayed at Les Minnimes. I was just trying for variety. Also, having spent quite a lot on some earlier stays, was willing to pay a bit less.

Le Clos d'Amboise was an old but pleasant place with a small parc with lots of old stone garden pieces, benches, a tuteur, pottery rabbits, etc. There was also what looked like a nice swimming pool, and large trees.

It was an easy walk everywhere. Friday morning we went to Le Clos, Leonardo da Vinci's house. My goodness, he invented everything. It was full of touring French school students, maybe 12 years of age. They were incredibly well-behaved compared to how their US counterparts would act.

Had an excellent penne bolognaise at a sidewalk cafe for lunch. That night we had a good club sandwich at Le Shaker and an old fashioned.

Saturday We were up early but had to wait a bit for breakfast, then to get out the gate. I like to avoid the early truck traffic and knew we had a grueling drive, However, nothing like the people at the next table who planned to drive 7 hours to St. Remy!

We stopped at Chartres. I had to coerce DH into doing this, and driving into the terrifying (5 floors down) underground car park made for teeny little cars. Because I live in AK, I always think 'earthquake, earthquake'.

The cathedral was soaring. I was glad I had read Follett's book a few years ago. It made it so much more meaningful. Plus, I'd read a bit on the time difference between the two towers, and the stained glass, etc.

It was amazing inside. The arches and groins with the towers were just neckbreaking to try and see it all. Even DH said he would not have missed it. He said it made him understand why the medieval people were so religious.

Traffic to Paris wasn't horrendous but for some reason when we got off at Pont d'Orleans, we were headed out not in to Paris.

After asking for directions a couple of times we found the parking garage to turn in the car. There was some poor guy in the Europecar garage wandering around wondering what to do with his car keys (probably because the sign to drop them in a slot was in French).

We stayed that night at the Hotel Saint-Beuve and were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to a room with a lovely, recently remodeled bathroom.

We walked up and down Montparnasse Blvd, peeked in some of the famous old spots so I could tell myself I'd been there.

We had an adequate dinner at somewhere non-famous and a glass of wine at The Dome.

One of my pet peeves on the trip was that after having spent nearly 10 years with tapes, videos, books, and a few classes, attempting to learn French, I feel somewhat successful with it. Yet waiters take one look at my curly blond hair and bring us the English menu!

Sunday: Our desk clerk gave us cups/saucers of coffee while we waited for our taxi, then we were off to CDG (only about 45 min that time of morning). Flights home were uneventful. We caught a standby with Alaska Air from Seattle and were home 4 hours earlier than expected.

Lovely report, thanks again for the details!

Thanks yk. I'm looking forward to a bit of lull before I plan the next one. The dollar vs euro is going to have to change!

great report! thanks for all the details!

Thanks lilaki.

Just finished reading "Old Bones", a murder mystery set near Mont St-Michel. Having just done the trip made it so much for vivid for me.

Topping for Fraya.

Topping for ts_lvs2travel

77 degrees is cool for me, but it's over 100 in Texas right now so it's all relative.

I too, had trouble with the French keyboard. Man, my standard 70WPM typing became 20WPM.

Yes, my relatives wondered why they got such short, cryptic e-mails from me.