Paris Trip Tips:
 

This is NOT my trip report. However, this IS a list of things I learned while traveling and while in Paris. These are things that you may have heard before and some of which I wish I had been told before going:

1. When traveling with teenagers abroad, expect some family drama and roll with it
2. When in Paris, you will walk, walk and walk some more
3. Ride the metro--it is efficient and affordable
4. No matter how many times you ride the metro, your metro map is GOLD- USE IT!
5. Sometimes metro tickets work twice, sometimes you don't need a ticket because the gate has been left open, and sometimes you need a ticket to get out of the station
6. Airport departure from a foreign country (at least at Charles de Gaulle airport) is CRAZY and take a lot of time-- get to the airport EARLY
7. The French LOVE good manners- always say hello, good evening, thank you, and good bye
8. Speaking just a little bit (un peu) of French goes a LONG way
9. Many Parisians working in the tourist areas and restaurants speak English- if you try your French, they will use their English
10. There are scam artists everywhere and are not above using their puppies and/or children to get your money
11. Pickpockets are real
12. Parisians sleep in late, eat dinner late, and stay up late
13. The perfect time for coffee and a break for a pastry is around 5:00pm
14. Dinner starts around 8:00
15. Parisians love french fries (frites). They serve them with nearly everything.
16. Paris can be a dirty city: poop, trash and graffiti-- look past it to see the beauty of the architecture and the culture
17. In France, bread is life. Eat it...a lot...it's delicious.
18. People in Paris don't drink water like we Americans do. When sitting down to eat, order water right away and order many of them.
19. Wait service in any restaurant/cafe in Paris is slow to American standards. Expect it and be patient.
20. It seems that everyone in Paris smokes
21. You really do need to know some of the language of the country you're traveling to
22. French pastries taste as delicious as they look. Try them all!
23. People really do eat baguettes every day and so should the tourists- breakfast, sandwiches, snack...
24. Parisians love ham (jambon)- you'll find it on or in lots of foods.
25. Yes, people in Paris dress nicely but you will not be looked down upon for dressing in nice jeans and sneakers.
26. Take a short 1-2 hour nap on your first day- you'll feel better for it, then get outside and get some fresh air and sunshine
27. The flight is LONG- especially when traveling from the west coast. Wrap your mind around it.
28. Sleeping on the flights is difficult. Be prepared.
29. Stay in an apartment- you'll really get a feel for the neighborhood and the people who live there
30. Bring a reusable grocery bag to use when shopping at the markets for food (if you're in an apartment and have a kitchen to use)

IMHO - almost every single thing you have listed is obvious - to anyone who has ever traveled abroad or read anything about Paris.

But meals are not late - they are normal hours - 1 pm for lunch and 8 pm for dinner. And waitstaff are NOT slow. They are giving you time to eat - restaurants in France are not Applebees (thank god! - trying to rush you through a whole meal in an hour).

nytraveler- this was my first time traveling abroad. These things were NOT obvious to me, my husband or my kids. They are simply a list of things I learned while traveling.

And yes, compared to most American standards, meals in Paris are late and wait staff is slow. We typically eat by 6:00 around here and are rushed in and out of the restaurants in an hour. We are also checked on many times and our water and drinks refilled often throughout the meal.

Not saying that the way things are done in Paris are irritating, just making a note of how they are different from what most Americans are used to- especially those who do not live in big US cities or those who have not traveled overseas.

"26. Take a short 1-2 hour nap on your first day- you'll feel better for it, then get outside and get some fresh air and sunshine"

I'll have to disagree with you on that. On one of my first trips to Europe I took a nap and had jet lag for a week. I've take more than a dozen trips since then, and I always stay up until nine the first night and have never had jet lag.

((H))

maitaitom- this was what worked for my family. We had no trouble with jet lag. Stayed up till 11:00-midnight every night and had no trouble sleeping or getting up and moving by 9:00 every morning. In fact, my son slept for about 5 hours upon arrival to the apartment and still had no trouble sleeping that first night or in dealing with jet lag the remainder of the week. What works for you doesn't mean it's what's best for everyone. In fact, I asked advice on jet lag before traveling, and my thread got 48 different responses. So again, this is just what worked for us.

Let me make myself clear, this is just MY list. Not saying anyone needs to agree with it. I guess I don't understand why people are so negative on this site. I asked a lot of questions on this forum before going to Paris, and got some great advice, but these were things we learned while traveling. What's with the negativity? Just because some of you have traveled extensively doesn't mean that the rest of us who are new to this can't post our thoughts without being picked apart. Wow.

I agree with egwright about the nap on the first day, it works that way for me. But I know that is a minority opinion on this message board.

I would be careful about using metro tickets twice or going in through an open gate without using a ticket, as there can be spot checks and if you do not have your ticket, you can be fined.

And many of these tips are not so obvious. They are sometimes the subject of controversial threads on this message board, such as what to wear and whether to stay in an apartment or a hotel.

It is always interesting to hear somebody's take on their travels.

Nikki- we always had a ticket to give to either the machine upon exiting or to show to the metro people who were spot checking tickets upon exiting. We were just surprised at the inconsistency surrounding tickets.

I'm not being negative, I just don't agree with you on that point.

((H))

#5 - you had better have a validated/used ticket if an inspector comes along. they won't want to hear that the gate was up.

You left off taking the bus, a great way to SEE around you as your are in transit.

DebitNM- we never rode the bus so I didn't include it.

This is a good list for first-timers. The problem is that newbies never look for these lists; there have been many lists posted here as advice for the uninitiated.

You can take what you've learned in Paris and translate that to other European countries and you'll be all set for your next trip.

Well - I can only judge by what I know - but eating lunch at 1 and dinner at 8 is NOT late. And any decent restaurant in the US - (not fast food chains) gives you 2 hours for dinner. Not constantly harassing you while you try to enjoy a meal.

I can understand if people rise very early and eat meals very early in some rural areas - but have never seen it myself. And would think that anyone who had visited a sizable city would be used to meals at a more reasonable hour - people are rarely even home by 6 pm. (Meals are later in some places - esp Spain - where dinner is typically at 10 pm).

And I don;t mean to be critical - but I would think that reading 1 or 2 guidebooks - or even watching a couple of episodes of the dreaded Steeeves would have made most of this obvious. He is, after all, aimed at the first time traveler.

To the OP: some posters can't help but criticize people presenting information they've learned - especially if the poster already knew what you are presenting. Take it in stride.

For a first timer, you presented the most valuable part of Paris trips - being polite by speaking the native tongue.

nytraveler- you may not mean to be critical, but you are.

People who live in suburbs with teenagers and who live by school schedules don't eat lunch at 1:00 and dinner at 8:00. I am up at 4:30 every morning, at work by 7:00, teaching by 7:45. My kids have lunch at school before 11:00 and that is the second lunch hour. They are out of school by 2:10 every day- dinner is by 6:00. Most families living like this do not go out to dinner often, so having dinner at a nice restaurant at 8:00 is not something that happens frequently; in fact, most of the time these experiences are limited to vacations. By 8:00 we're shutting down, finishing homework, and getting ready for bed...definitely NOT going to dinner at a nice restaurant for two hours.

I think that you need to accept that not everyone lives like you or has the same experiences. As I have said several times, this is MY experience. I read several guidebooks, asked questions on this site, read through several trip reports and, God forbid, watched Rick Steves, but these were all experiences for a first time traveler. In fact, my husband and I turned to each other and said, these are the things no one ever tells you.
This is ridiculous.

"To the OP: some posters can't help but criticize people.."

Nobody is criticizing the original poster, but, in my opinion, to tell people to take a short nap on Day One will work is is not necessarily good information for many. Everyone is different. I know a lot of friends who have napped their first day, and the first few days were miserable because of jet lag. My brother-in law was a mess for almost a week because he took a two hour nap on Day One. Ot screwed up one of my trips. Others, like the poster can nap and it works. Terrific. But to just say, "Take a short 1-2 hour nap on your first day- you'll feel better for it," is just not true for a lot of travelers.

I love the rue Cler. Others here hate it. If you want to go...great. If not...that's cool, too. You can have differing opinions on this board, or has that changed in 2013?

((H))

We've had many a thread debating napping or not and it will continue! :)

Everyone needs to figure out what works best for them. Same with rue Cler.

26. Take a short 1-2 hour nap on your first day- you'll feel better for it, then get outside and get some fresh air and sunshine.

maitaitom
I'll have to disagree with you on that. On one of my first trips to Europe I took a nap and had jet lag for a week. I've take more than a dozen trips since then, and I always stay up until nine the first night and have never had jet lag.

When we took our first trip several years ago...I had read stay up,keep going on your first day...I tried but sometimes the body just doesn't do what you want.

After arriving I had to stop and lay down for about an hour. I didn't have any jetlag for the rest of the trip and I had no problem going back to sleep that 1st night. You should trust your own body,do what is best for you.

egwright10--While I have been to Paris a handful of times, I still appreciate your list. What works for you might work for others. The thing with the metro tickets that DebitNM mentioned is important. Anyway, I am with you and rarely eat as late as 8pm, etc. My days are much like yours. Anyway, I just wanted to give you some encouragement to keep posting and don't let the negative nellies get to you. There are plenty around here, but there are also nice people around too. We all were first time European travelers at one point and we need to put ourselves back in those shoes on occassion:) Sounds like you had a good time and will go again.

Dear eg,
Without being negative, I think what puzzles readers is that you clearly did your homework:

<i>"I asked a lot of questions on this forum before going to Paris, and got some great advice, but these were things we learned while traveling."</i>

and "<i> I read several guidebooks, asked questions on this site, read through several trip reports and, God forbid, watched Rick Steves, but these were all experiences for a first time traveler. In fact, my husband and I turned to each other and said, these are the things no one ever tells you.</i>

The paradox is your list is filled with elementary things, contained in almost every Paris trip report or travelogue. So I think what may be perceived as criticism is more puzzlement.

apersuader65- Thank you!

I don't understand #18 - People in Paris don't drink water like we Americans do. What does this mean?

"You should trust your own body,do what is best for you."

Exactly my point! There is no ONE way that is correct for everyone.

((H))

eg, thanks for writing this list. We can all learn from each others experience's, well if we don't know everything allready:)

But we can also very easily pick up misinformation if we read thinking that this is anything but completely subjective observations of a first-time traveler. It's just one person's experience and would best be presented as such, instead of "tips."

29FEB,
Elementary? Maybe, but simply put, they are just things I learned.

Perhaps I should change the post "title". They aren't necessarily tips for everyone- things that I wish I'd known more of and things that you hear but don't really believe until you experience them yourself. Not sure what you think are elementary?

The trip reports I read on this forum usually included things about specific restaurants, food choices, shopping, things to avoid...I wish I'd seen something about the beggars with puppies and their children on the street-- I had no idea. Also about the kids trying to get you to sign their lists--how annoying! I would have been better prepared. But in all the stuff I read, I never saw any of that.

Comments about food and language, understood? Maybe. But until you're actually there you don't know what it's like. I traveled with my husband and teenagers NONE of whom knew any of the language and once we were there they realized how important knowing just a little of it was.

Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but I think it should be said to people who are new to traveling abroad and who are nervous about it, that learning some of the language and opening yourself up to the cultural experience will really help them during their travels.

I think most of the reports I read were written by people who had traveled several times to Paris and offered a different perspective. Two of my good friends who have been to Paris four times now, were shocked when I said that the city was gritty and dirty. They said they've never seen trash and graffiti! I said they travel with rose colored glasses. When I mentioned that the neighborhoods leading up to Sacre Coeur were a little rough, they were shocked again! They just couldn't believe it when we said we didn't necessarily feel safe walking certain streets in that area. Everyone has a different experience.

No one should be puzzled by what I've written. This isn't rocket science. Just my thoughts on a trip I took. No one told me some of these things and I really wish I'd known-- especially about the confusion, lines, and different rules of flying out of a foreign airport. What would have taken an hour in the US, took nearly 3 hours in Paris. So, I did my homework leading up to the trip, but even then, there were things I learned.

adrienne- regarding the water: when you sit down to eat in an American restaurant, everyone at the table is offered water as well as any other drink they order. Our experience in Paris was not like that. We had to specifically order water and only those people who ordered it were given some. The glasses were small and never refilled. The wait staff returned to our table only occasionally, so asking for more was sometimes an inconvenience to them. So, we started by ordering water for everyone at the table and sometimes an extra glass/bottle or two just to be sure everyone had enough.

<<I wish I'd seen something about the beggars with puppies and their children on the street-- I had no idea. Also about the kids trying to get you to sign their lists--how annoying! I would have been better prepared. But in all the stuff I read, I never saw any of that.>>

I wish you had, too, but in fact there are threads on Fodors almost every day about these issues.

Your comments about the level of formality and learning the language are great - they can never be reinforced enough.

My only puzzlement is in saying things like the Parisians serve frîtes with practically everything, the Parisians LOVE ham, they get up late, etc...OK, those were your observations regarding a handful of Parisians you encountered; not facts.

But that's OK. I'm sure there's enough good info in here to help out some new travelers.

Thanks for your posting Eg.

As I said, you clearly did do a lot of research before your trip.
I wonder if the difference is akin to "book smart" vs "street smart."

Some things just don't sink in until one actually experiences the reality,
which of course is true for most people.

I'm glad you had a good family trip.

StCirq- frites were served in the nicest of restaurants with some of the best dishes I've ever eaten. I was just surprised by that when fries in the states are mostly reserved to burgers and kid's food.
Sandwiches, eggs, burgers- were all served with ham. Even a chicken sandwich at Laduree had a slice of ham as a garnish on top and was served with Laduree frites.
On the mornings we got up and out early, there was nearly no one on the streets and even the stores were still closed (this was at 9:00!) When you're used to stores opening at 5:00am and people being out to run or get to work before 6:00am, 9:00 was late. We'd stop in to one of the local cafes for petite dejeuner around 9:00 and the place would be empty. If we came earlier, it wasn't even open yet.
My observations? Yes.

Again, these are your experiences, and they are interesting and should be taken for what they are...your trip experiences. But nothing is set in stone on any vacation.

You wrote about the "confusion, lines and different rules of flying out of a foreign airport and what would have taken an hour in the US took nearly 3 hours for you." Well, that doesn't happen every trip.

On this trip, it took us 30 minutes to go through Immigration/Customs at CDG. It took us nearly 3 hours at LAX when we returned hone. It took us ten minutes to check in at CDG for our flight home and we were at our gate in half an hour. I wouldn't tell people that CDG is a breeze, because for our friends it took them more than an hour just to check in, and I've also had my problems at CDG. The last time I went through CDG, I had my camera stolen by security.

I'm just saying, had this been my first trip to Paris, come back and written, "getting through CDG is as easy as pie," people would rightly disagree with me on this Forum. The next time you go, maybe CDG will be a breeze like it was for us. Every trip is different.

This is why most trip reports just state what the experiences were for them. I've been to Paris more than a dozen times. I have never been pick-pocketed, nor ever seen it happen. I would never in a trip report state, "There are no pickpockets in Paris." I've never had kids want me to sign a list. I've never even had the ring scam pulled on me. That doesn't mean I look at Paris with Rose-colored glasses, it just means it hasn't happened to me.

We were offered water,"sparkling (with gas, etc) or plain"" at most restaurants in France, but I would not say that is the norm because I have only eaten at a finite number of restaurants, so maybe we just hit the ones that offer water

Nobody is saying don't tell about your trip and what you feel. Many of things on your list I totally agree with. There are some, obviously, that I don't. Don't take it personally. Just because it happened to you, does not mean it happens to others or what is right for you is right for others. That's what makes traveling fun and unique.

((H))

You made a lot of great points that many would do well to pay attention to, especially on their first trip to Paris.

There is always disagreement on even the simplest things on this forum. Many will appreciate your points, tips or whatever Fodorites want to call them. I happen to agree with a lot of them.

Anyone can accept the advice or choose not to. It should always be understood that these are one person's observations.

I appreciate you sharing and look forward to your report...and you survived Paris with teenagers!

Well, I'm used to some store that are open 24 hours. And supermarketets are usually open by 8 am. But other types of stores typically don;t open until 9 or even 10 am here - although they are usually open until 8 or 9 pm - and in some neighborhoods midnight.

I would expect streets to be deserted at 5 or 6 am (aren't people sleeping - who gets up that early voluntarily?) Out work hours are from 9 to 5 - but that really means 9:30 to 7:30 or so - or until the project is done when you're on deadline. (That's why no one is eating dinner at 5 in the afternoon.)

Paris is a big city and I would expect it to operate like other big cities, not like small villages (again, no stores are open before 9 am) or farms.

And dining doesn't require "patience" it requires relaxation. If you gobble down dinner in an hour at 6 pm what do you do with the rest of the day. Dining from 8 to 10 pm with a nice wine and then a romantic long walk home through lovely places is a delightful way to spend an evening. Otherwise what do you do from 7 pm to midnight?

I guess I'm used to European customs as I never noticed about the water (or perhaps I noticed when I originally went to Europe and have forgotten). I normally order water as my beverage (when I'm not ordering wine) and don't think twice about it. When ordering water I ask for a carafe, not a glass. Ordering water is something I would never have thought to mention to anyone since I've never had a problem obtaining it.

Did you notice that coffee is served after the dessert, not with dessert?

I don't feel that these customs are worth worrying about. You can always ask for water when you want it. Certain things become self evident.

BTW - if you want an early coffee then go to a bar, not a cafe. Every neighborhood has bars that open early. Same in Italy.

Some of the things you mention are the difference between city life and suburban life and apply to US cities as well as European cities.

I know what I do after 7:00 in Paris Lots of times I go to concerts or dance performances or theater. And in Paris it is hard to eat dinner at many restaurants before the theater. It is good to know which types of restaurants serve food continuously, such as brasseries and some cafes, if you want to eat before the theater or an evening out . Yes, there is the option of eating after the theater, but this is too late for many people, especially if they are getting up early to go sightseeing.

Even at home I eat earlier than 8:00. I am out most evenings playing music. Many people have evening activities. Everybody does not live the same lifestyle. Even in New York, which is where I grew up and where I visit frequently, restaurants serve earlier than they do in Paris. I see many people in restaurants before the theater in New York.

"Also about the kids trying to get you to sign their lists--how annoying!"

Sorry, but what does this mean? What lists?

I was pretty worried on my first trip to Paris that I would look completely unfashionable and really stand out. But honestly as long as you're actually dressed (that is, no pyjamas/sweats etc.) you'll be just fine. I don't think Parisians are inherently more fashionable than the rest of the world, I think they maybe just take a little more time on the whole, keep it simple and therefore seem more put together. But I certainly never got any snide looks about my simple sandals and cotton sundresses :)

I was also surprised at how nice most Parisians seemed to be; you hear a lot of negative things about their attitudes to tourists. But you're right, as long as you're friendly and polite, and at least try to speak a bit of French, people will treat you kindly in return, and most of them will gladly speak English. I think at worst they found my attempts at French amusing, but no one was mean!

I think #30 is a great one to note. I was glad my co-travelers and I remembered to pack our environsax (re-useable bags) on our recent trip. We used them everyday, and were struck that the vast majority of shoppers at the Carrefour near our apartment brought their own bags. I don't think that's terribly common in much of the US, or at least not where I live. People do it, of course, but not to the extent that we noticed in Paris.

Next time you want water at a restaurant ask for "une carafe d'eau" and you'll get a bottle/pitcher large enough for everyone and won't have to ask for individual glasses. It's just tap water and it's free.

It was an interesting list.

May I add one more, please?

Whatever you post on Fodors about travel will attract a lot of people who will tell you, "that's not the way."

Good for you because you took the most important thing with you, your manners.

That always makes for an outstanding trip. :)

I love Paris!

I don't have time to read the whole thread will come back later- but just a comment about the mealtimes, and nytraveler vs. egwright10

nyt lives in Manhattan - most Americans don't. 8PM actually IS quite late for dinner in some parts of the country. Dinner rush starts around 5:30PM and some even nice places stop serving around 9PM. This seems especially true in rural areas/smaller towns.

I personally prefer the later meal times, but nyt should realize NYC isn't the whole country.