Paris trip report
 

I am now on 10-11 hour days and 7 days a week at work but need to start a trip report. I am not the writer or travel expert that some of you are but we really had great experience in Paris and I want to share a little. This site was so instrumental in our enjoyment of the trip that I feel I owe it to those that follow. If this is not of interest tell me and I will stop. Please pardon the spelling (or misspelling) of the French words. The English will probably be as bad.<BR>First: we arrived at 1130 (24 hour clock remember) on a Sunday. The trip through customs was a snap. I had reserved (at the last minute) a Paris Shuttle. I called when we arrived as instructed but we had a 45 minute wait for the driver and van. It took another 15-20 minutes to get away from the airport and about an hour overall to our hotel. We had an interesting companion most of the way that gave us some insights.<BR>We were booked at the Hotel Derby Eiffel on Rue Duquesne in the 7th. This is a short walk (three short corners from Rue Cler and across the street from the side of the Ecole Militarie and only about 400 feet from a metro station. The Staff was wonderful and the room was adequate -nicely decorated and clean as a pin but very small. The bathroom was elegant but tiny. the shower door was not wide enough for my generous behind. However, the water was hot, the toilet worked and lighting was good.<BR>We were also about 3 blocks from the head of mall in front of the Eiffel Tower. (We could see the Eiffel tower from our window -by craning our neck and looking sideways.<BR>We walked for a while that afternoon and then ate dinner in the neighborhood. We had been up, except for a nap on the plane, since 0600 central US time on Saturday. So we ended the first day.<BR>One note for you to hold in your mind is that I asked the Shuttle driver how much notice they needed to schedule the return trip to the airport--he may not have understood English very well but; he said to call that day and they would pick me up. DO NOT BELIEVE THAT!<BR>One more thing: We left home for Paris on the 14th of September.<BR>

Continuing : On day two (Monday) we decided to have breakfast in the hotel. It was quaint, the layout was good but it was very pricey. Our first trip was to the Eiffel Tower. We bought tickets to the top with a stop on the next to top level and then to the top. Do not miss this experience. It is fantastic. The city is so beautiful. We walked to the rail station and caught a train to the stop (D’ Orsay) across the river from the Louvre. I made the mistake of buying a all day anywhere pass halfway through a day with only time left to do one or two things. More on metro passes later. We walked to the Louvre and found that after 3 on Mondays the ticket price is reduced. Some of the museum closes at 5 but there is plenty to do. We ate lunch (very late lunch) and then stayed until about 8 pm. We were exhausted. There are stairs everywhere in Paris. In the metro in the Louvre, everywhere you go there are stairs. Metro back to our neighborhood and tried another restaurant. <BR>By this time I should mention we had not met a single rude Frenchman (person). NOT ONE. I speak only 10 words of French and do not pronounce them correctly. However, I started off every time with “Bon Jour m(whatever)” and “do you speak English” (in French) Everyone usually said either “no” or “only a little” but their English was far superior to my French.<BR>Day three, (Tuesday) I really wanted to do the D’Orsay but opted to start the day on the island. We went to the Cathedral Notre Dame. Here we bought the Museum pass. This pass may be a good deal for some but it is only good for 5 days from the first time you use it, so be prepared to spend all of your time in museums if you buy it as I think if I remember you have to do about 6 or 7 to break even and everything you want to see is not on the pass.<BR>We climbed the tower to the parapet (about 300 steps) I told you there are many steps in Paris. It was another 50 or so up to the Quisimodo (Sp) bell tower and the back to the parapet. Then it was another 100 or so steps up to the top of the tower. The view is wonderful from either place. Depending upon your age and condition you may want to limit this climb or rest a long time on the parapet. There is probably a good reason they have an aid station at the top of the 300 step climb. We went to Samartine’s saw the wonderful ceiling there and ate lunch in their caf&eacute; on the 9th floor. A little shopping, some alley walking and then dinner on the Island and back home to the neighborhood for desert and then to the room.<BR>

Tell us more!

Once again I question the sense of reserving a Paris Shuttle, having to call when you get there, and then waiting 45 minutes for the damn thing to pick you up, as well as making other stops before you get where you're going. All that to save just a few dollars (assuming two people) instead of walking out and getting a taxi for a direct route to your hotel. Just doesn't make sense to me, but hey if you enjoy the aggravation, more power to you!<BR><BR>Anxiously awaiting more of your report Mikex!

Interesting report so far, Mike. We could really relate to your comment about stairs being ubiquitous in Paris. As my wife said, &quot;I'm the only person I know who lost weight in Paris!&quot;<BR>I'll also have to agree with Patrick's comment. After an 8-hour flight, no waiting around for me. I just want to hop into a cab or a limousine and get to the hotel.

I am definitely not a believer in shuttles! We had a reservation with Parishuttle and missed the van as the driver left without us (we didn't call as planned so he took off); we were told to wait another 30 minutes. After a 14 hour transcon. flight from the west coast via Germany, we weren't going to wait another 30 minutes-if he showed up at all. So back upstairs to the arrivals hall and queued up for a taxi as many others and quickly got one. The drive was fast and our driver was courteous. The cost was the same as Parishuttle. Heck, take the taxi-not a shuttle!! Save time and patience.

When I say we didn't call as planned I meant we made the mistake of calling the shuttle co. after picking up our baggage instead of before we picked it up.

We just returned from Paris and used Parishuttle both ways and had absolutely no problems. We had five people so it was definitely cheaper than two taxis. Our van was waiting for us when we walked out of the door of the airport and on the return they arrived at the exact time specified. We did have to drop off and pick up other people but we were in no hurry and enjoyed seeing some other areas of Paris that we hadn't spent much time. We contacted Mark Harris directly at [email protected].

Great report. Can't wait for more.<BR>I wanted to know from Mikex or others if the museum pass is worth it just to bypass the lines. I am thinking of getting a three day and might not break even with the # of sights but if it avoids time in lines, could it be worth it?

Milex,<BR>I am loving your report--please continue! My husband and I are laughingly agreeing about the stairs everywhere--great workout!

Jen, in answer to your question, yes the museum pass is worth it just to bypass the potentially long lines at the Louvre and d'Orsay. A three-day pass is a good choice. Keep in mind, that the pass is good for a lot of other sites besides museums, including the Arc de Triumph and Ste. Chapelle. So, it may be easier than you think to get your money's worth.

Reading the comments here has brought back a lot of memories of the week we spent a week in Paris in May of '99. I loved every minute and vowed to return someday. And your comment regarding stairs..how true. We went to the Arc de Triomphe and the only way up were the stairs. She looked at me and advised against it and I thought, Hmmp, I can do this! Well, old overweight, heavy smoker me wished several times during the climb that I had heeded her words! (Just for the record, I've lost some weight and quit a 46 year smoking habit last February 12th!!). But back to Paris. We stayed at the Champ de Mars and the area was perfect. We saw some of the mentioned tourist attractions, and often just walked and looked. A near-by restaurant was our favorite (very simple fare and frequented by mostly locals) and where we ended up eating most of the time. I found the people to be friendly and helpful and I won't even entertain the idea that, on occasion, we may have had a NL European Vacation experience though - admittedly - it's a possibility. <BR>On one occasion we were on a corner (probably) looking very lost, consulting our guide book when a very nice english-speaking man stopped, gave us directions and offered a little advice. Then one night we were in a subway station, waiting for a train to take us to the station nearest our hotel. (It had been a very long day). Us and others had been waiting for a while when finally a uniformed man appeared to tell us that there would be no train and beckoned us all out of the station. He explained to each little group an alternative way to get where they were going. And then there was us! He didn't speak English but we told him the name of our hotel, he pondered a moment, chin in hand and then he lit up..he indicated we should walk!, this # of blocks, turn, then this # of blocks. He was really funny..and very nice!<BR><BR>Has any one been to the cemetery where some very famous people are buried. Someone told us that WHEN we go back we should make it a must see. We saw the D'Orsay but missed the Louvre, reason itself to go back!!

Thanks for your advice Howard.<BR><BR>Elaine: I have not been to the cemetery but my parents have and swear I have to go there. I really can't see spending/wasting time there to look at tombstones. I'd like to hear from anyone also who has been and thinks it is a must see and why they think it is a must see.

Elaine and Jen, If you are thinking of the cemetary pere Lachaise, its a great place, the crypts are often works of art, the statues are incredible and it will give you some fantastic photo ops, I don't go there everytime I go to Paris so I wouldn't consider it a must see, but its up toward the top of the list but then I also enjoyed the sewers of Paris tour!!!

Hi Deborah, Is the cemetery you named the one where Jim Morrison is buried(?) which is the one this person meant. I ask because I think she said there was another big cemetery, too. I'm making my 'list'..maybe 2003 is the year.

There are two major cemeteries in Paris with famous people -- Pere Lachaise and Montparnasse. There are some in Montmartre cemetery, also, but not as many. Some people really like looking at graves and some don't, it's a personal thing. I've been to all of them becuase I've been to Paris a lot, but I'm not as crazy about that as my sister is, for example. She really likes looking at gravestones, but I don't find most of it that interesting, either. Montparnasse is much closer in than Pere Lachaise, so is easier to see in a short time, but if there isn't anyone's grave in particular you want to see there, I wouldn't go.

Elaine, yes he is buried at Pere Lachaise, we have been to the cemetary on two or three of our trips and I still couldn't tell you where it is but it is there and there are probably people milling around it at all times of the day, there are some really eerie tombstones and many that are incredible works of art, guess that's what appeals to me, not many places can you see that which was so important in their life that they use it to mark their existence, what ever you do in Paris, you will have a good time Deborah

Definitely put Pere Lachaise Cemetery on your must-see list. It's fascinating and well worth several hours of your time. As a previous poster said, it's like being in a museum, and the photo ops are ubiquitous!

has anyone been on the bus operated by AirFrance rom CDG airport to the city centre? How much does it cost and I also hear there is a tour of Paris included

All responses are helpful. WE (4 of us) are going in July to cheer on Lance in the Tour De France. We would like to stay as close to the Champ Elysees (for the last race to end). Any suggestions? If anyone has been there for this tour any advice would be helpful.

Installment three: I agree about skipping the shuttle if there is not a group of you. The rest of the story about the shuttle really occurs the last morning. As directed when I arose that morning I called the shuttle and found they did not open until 0700. I called back then and was told there was no way I could get a shuttle for the late morning trip to DeGaule. There was a bit of a panic for a while until our hotel receptionest pull some strings and got us a taxi. The return trip to DeGaule was swift, direct a gentle, however, those who are concerned about cost it did cost about $15 more than the shuttle.<BR>I realized last night that I was tending to wander a little with my writting so rather than a day by day blow from now on I will try to list in maybe bullet form what and where and why. And maybe, even why not again for us.<BR>Let me skip the tours and cover something I consider important and that is the Metro. I consider the Paris Metro the best I have experienced but tickets are a consideration. I looked over the options carefully and unless you are going to be flitting around Paris like a butterfly ther best bet is a stack of 10 tickets for a little less than 10 Euros. I bought our 20 at a time (2 of us) until the last day and then I bought 1 pack (carte) of 10. We left town with 2 unused tickets and I gave them to the receptionest to give to whomever on the staff used the metro.(last of the bigtime spenders) The Metro is efficient and clean and for the most part confortable. Of course during rush hour it is crowded but not that bad. Plan your personal day packing so you can protect your purse or wallet when on the Metro and in the station because there are pickpockets and believe me they are probably wiser than you when it comes to their craft. One more thing, look at the street map when you plan your day. You might find you are taking the metro and walking more in stations to get to your destination than if you just struck out and walked the entire trip. Some train changes in stations require considerable walking (oh yes, did I mention all those stairs &lt;G&gt;)More soon <BR>Mike

hi mikex,<BR><BR>love your trip report so far, however, I really want to point out to others...metro...big mistake. if you are going to be in paris 3 days or more you should really consider the vistors metro card.<BR><BR>you can purchase it at any major metro station and it is called the PARIS VISTE. you can get 1-3 zones or the 1-8 zones. 1-3 zone covers most of central paris and the rides are unlimited. I am not sure what the cost is now in euros, but the us equivilant 2 years ago was about $20 for 5 days zones 1-3. <BR><BR>it was invaluable. you got a carnet that was usuable over and over again. you had a little cover that you put it back into each time. we never had to worry about getting metro tickets or running out of them. we purchased it our 1st day and used it until our last one there.<BR><BR>just a thought....

Lorie, my husband watched the last day of the Tour a couple of years ago, he was staying at the Intercontinental on the Champs so he just walked outside the hotel. He spent the entire day on the sidewalk standing with the crowd waiting for the cyclists. He had a great time. Do you have any questions he might be able to answer? Deborah

More on the metro: I do not want to start (or carry on) this theme much longer, but: The reason I said buy the Carnet of tickets (10 per pack) was that ---in our case--- it was cheaper than the $20 -- 5 day unlimited pass. We planned our trip pretty carefully and consolidated each day in certain areas. Therefore for us it was much better to use the Carnet of 10 vice the 5 day pass as we hardly ever used more than three tickets each in one day. We did however spend hours and months planning where we would go each day and when we would walk and when we would ride. Enough about that on to the trip report.

The cemetary for me is worth seeing, so many famous people all in one place.But seriously, some of the statuary is so unique, bizarre, beautiful, you name it. It's like a little village the way it's laid out. people sit on benches reading and eating. Unfortunately now it is patrolled because the fans of Jim Morrissey not only made a mess of his tomb, the graffiti is awful but they have marked up other tombs. They have decided to evict him. No date or new location announced so they'll be no demonstrations.

Thanks for the positive comments on the report: Our next day was filled with tours and here is our opinion of what we saw. I mentioned earlier that we did the tower climbs at Notre Dame but I failed to mention the beauty of the Cathedral itself. It is an architectural wonder both inside and out. Be sure to see the Cathedral from across the river and from behind as well as from the courtyard in front. Inside there is a little museum that contains various personal items and some church historical. It is not part of the museum pass but well worth the small fee and the time to visit.<BR>There is a public toilet (indoor and monitored) to the river side (on your right, facing the cathedral) that is convenient if you are anywhere nearby. It does not always smell all that good in the corridor but it is bearable and it is clean. The cost is nominal .35 euros I think and cheaper than buying a drink to use the toilet in a restaurant.<BR>Elsewhere on the island is an underground exhibition of early Paris (The Crypt) that they have excavated. This is mildly interesting but is covered by your museum pass if you buy one.<BR>The island also contains one long block from Notre Dame the Sainte Chappell. This small chapel is absolutely stunning and should be a must if you like stained glass. (covered by the museum pass) It is a small investment of your time to sit peacefully and wait for the sun to hit the windows just right. <BR>Just down the street is la Conciergerie. This is the location of Marie Antoinette’s last cell before she was taken to the plaza for execution. There is not a lot to see, it does not take long and if you have a museum pass it is covered. <BR>On this day we were finished sightseeing fairly early so we went to see another department store ceiling. Believe me when I say that I do not go to department stores if I can avoid it but after Samartein’s ceiling I could not resist so we went to Galleries Lafeytte (misspelled) to see theirs. This was another stunning find. So we also went to nearby Prin Temps and again it was a winner.<BR>This is so hard to find as titled. Can someone tell me how I can get this to some up when searching france, Paris I will start a new post with a title that will not move down 160 messages in 24 hours!<BR><BR>More soon <BR>Mike<BR>

Pere Lachaise should be on your list of things to see. Most cemetaries here in the states are full of headstones and markers, but very few cripts. We visited on a Saturday, the funerals were almost nonstop. We went to the crematory, they move the body inside, then have a service, then move the people back outside, fire up the burners, then bring the people back in. Not something we see everyday. The photo ops are incredible. Rows and rows of old cripts with beautiful stained glass. The whole place has a earthy cement color about it.(Somewhat old grey and moldy looking) I did find Jim Morrison's grave over rated though. There is a lot more history found by just reading the headstones.

Mike, Thanks for sharing. Keep it coming please!

What was the weather like when you were there? I am planning a trip either at the beginning or end of September of 2003 (I have to coordinate w/ a co-worker who will be gone mid-September.) I have only been to Paris in the spring and summer. THANKS! Keep your stories coming!

The weather was very moderate. A lightweight jacket or a sport coat was all I needed most days and evenings. I carried a backpack when we were touring so most mornings we would leave wearing light weight jackets with those little raincoats in a bag (for each of us) in the backpack, along with an umbrella. As the day progressed I usually went down to shirt sleeves while my wife changed to a lightweight zip up sweater. When we returned to the hotel in the evening we would usually don sport coat for me and a jacket (sport coat like) for her. We had one day it was very cool all day and another that it drizzled rain all day. We live in NW FL and are warm blooded creatures. Our trip dates were from Sept 14 to Oct 2.<BR>Mike<BR>

Thanks, Mike! That helps a lot. I have a good idea what I will bring and have my mom bring now for that time of year. Best wishes. :-)

Mike:<BR><BR>Thanks for the great trip report! I'm really enjoying it.<BR><BR>Americaine:<BR>I'm also going to Paris with my Mom in September. We'll be there the last full week. I can't wait!<BR><BR>Jennie

Sorry guys I will be a few morw days. Very important (to the Boss) project and we literally have been at the office day and night. I haven't had a day off in two weeks and most days are 12-15 hours. I left home at 0600 today and returned as 2330. More soon. Does anyone know how to get a message to the Paris &amp; France folder vrs this Paris and Europe folder?

Well, I am through with hell week at work. I had 86 hours last week, so here is my appology for not going on before. <BR>Our next day will bore most of you. First we overslept (no big deal museums do not open until 1000). So we are up late, caught breakfast on the fly and in a cool drizzle caught the metro to the D’Orsay. For background the D’Orsay was built in the 19th century as a train station and it must have been magnificent. But alas by the mid 20 century trains were too large for this station;it closed and fell into neglect. However, before the wrecking ball could get it, some enterprising French persons decided to make it into a museum and I thank them. This was in some ways my number one favorite of all the art museums. I love architecture and impressionist art and this museum has much to offer along these lines. To shorten today’s feature we spent the entire day in here. I do mean all day. We first went to the third floor and did the impressionist galleries. There are about 10-12 of them and they have them all (the impressionist artists that is) Really this is art you see from a distance and learn to appreciate. <BR>Then we had lunch in a very nice restaurant (on the mezzanine, I think)(there was also a snack bar in the same area) Then we tried to do the remainder of the museum until about 1730 when we went back to the restaurant and had dinner. (food was better than average in quality and reasonable in price) We did the museum store and more wandering through the galleries on the main concourse. The main concourse is about 5 or 6 stories tall, barrel shaped and very nice. It is filled with statuary and small galleries. At one end of the concourse is a 4 or 5 story museum of furniture with much interesting furniture from (what US'ers know as prairie style and mission style) through Danish modern and modern. My wife was exhausted by now so I did this on my own and was traveling at near warp speed through the exhibits. <BR>Metro back home, exhausted but oh so fulfilled. As most of you have guessed we love museums, art and architecture. If you want night life adventures in Paris better read another travelogue.<BR>Till next time<BR>Mike<BR>

No comments or response to my last evening post. Maybe this one has run its course. Here is another installment if not one is interested I will shut this down. Another day! Weather was not too great in the morning. Wife needed to rest for a while so I took off to do the sewers with the promise to be back from my day by 3 pm so we could go out together.<BR>The sewers were very interesting, if somewhat smelly. I am an engineer by trade and after spending my life around wastewater treatment plants and designing upgrades for sewers I was not bothered but – you will have to decide for your self. Personally, I would do it again in a heartbeat. From the Sewer tour I walked the 10 blocks or so in Invalides. Here I toured a couple of the galleries first the one that holds personal armor for about 10 centuries or so and then a WWII gallery. Of course all of the cases were titled in French so I felt somewhat hampered. Napoleon’s Tomb is at this same place so I did this next. It is very interesting, very lavish and very beautiful. <BR>I still had some minutes to spare and was not far from the hotel so I went back for another gallery. This on was dedicated to the French Resistance Forces in WWII. This was pretty graphic and very disturbing as it should be. As I mentioned, I do not read French but I can make out paragraphs and sentences sometimes. I could make out enough to feel a deep sense of appreciation for the danger, risk, and horrible end for some that accompanied the every day life of these men and women for 5 or 6 years in the middle of the last century. I left with a sense of awe and admiration. I went back to the hotel and wife and I out to dinner and then home for the night. <BR>

Highly enjoying your report Mike, no need to stop!<BR>Regards,<BR>Jade

Mike, I am enjoying your trip report also. If you have more, please do continue. I especially enjoyed your description of d'Orsay. I expect it to my favorite museum when we visit Paris this summer.

Mike<BR>What a perfect trip report! Full of insights and information. What a lovely way to spend a day-in my favorite museum, all day at the D'Orsay sounds just perfect!<BR>We did the same thing at St Chappell,once you get over the claustrophobia of the stairwell, to sit and just watch the light in the windows is a lovely experience.<BR>Do keep writing more! Thank you,Scarlett

Great report.<BR><BR>Do a search for Cemeteries of Paris (I used MSN.com) and you will find a list of the cemeteries in Paris as well as where you can find who's grave, pictures, and a description of the most popular and the map number of where you can find a particular grave. The cemeteries are platted with a street name and assigned a number. My son and I visited Montmarte Cemetery and found it incredible. Great way to spending a relaxing afternoon.<BR><BR>Rita

Mikex -<BR>keep them coming - a great trip report. Although I know Paris so well, and am there on average 4 or 5 times a year for a few days at a time, your report brings it all back - with wonderful insight and flavour ! It helps very much illsutrate why Paris is almost everyone's favourite city ...<BR>Keep your report coming<BR>Thank You<BR>Tony<BR><BR><BR>