I believe you have Pompidou to thank for not letting them demolish the Gare d'Orsay. He presided over a period of a lot of renovation and modernization of Paris, although some not so attractive perhaps (ie, Montparnasse Tower). If I'm remembering correctly, it wasn't just his idea, but a reaction to a public protest over too many demolitions of older buildings in favor of modernization -- for example, Les Halles was demolished and the new shopping complex built around that time and I think the public were po'd over that. However, I don't believe its use at a museum was planned at that time and that didn't happen for about 10 years (Pompidou had died in the interim, d'Estaing or Mitterand probably were responsible for that museum project, I don't recall the history).

Mike,<BR>Keep it coming! We have so much in common. We, too, are going to Paris in September this year. And guess what! My husband also is looking forward to the sewer tour. Why? Becuase he is an environmental engineer in Orlando who happens to work on waste water. Boy, I bet you guys have a lot of crap in common. hahaha. Like I said, don't stop! We are very interested!

WHILE IN PARIS BE SURE TO SEE THE CATACOMBS VERY DIFFERENT<BR>MILES OF UNDERGROUND PASSAGEWAYS<BR>FILLED WITH SKULLS AND BONES ARRANGED VERY NEATLY

Yes, Mike, keep it coming please. What restaurants did you and your wife eat at? I love hearing about food and different restaurants/bistro/brasseries.

OK another installment: On this day we decided to sleep in (after we forgot to set our clock the night before). We took the metro to Montmarte arriving at Abbesse station about 1100. From there is is but a few short blocks down an interesting street to the tram up the hill to Sacr&eacute; Coeur. It was here at the bottom of the tram we encountered out first sidewalk toilet in Paris. These are really neat. You enter by putting in your ,35E, take care of you needs and when you leave the unit locks, washes it self with high power spray and then blow dries for the next occupant. Everybody needs to try one of these. As an older citizen with a short attention span (so to speak) I sure wish we had these in the US. Back to the tour: You will remember what I said about steps earlier. Well here is the granddaddy of outdoor steps. I did not count them. I just looked up and forked over a metro ticket each for a ride up the hill on the tram. Sacr&eacute; Coeur was all it promised; stark white beauty glistening in the sunlight. Inside was as beautiful as promised too. I left the wife sitting in the chapel, resting, while I went to investigate the tower. I went downstairs to get into the tower, found it was another couple hundred stairs and 5E so I passed. By the end of this day I would not regret that decision. Montmarte is just that; a small (MOUNT)mountain and the area is full of up an down streets and steps. From the Chapel we followed a walking tour from one of our guide books and went next to a very old church (maybe St Phillips or Philippe). Then we went on to the artist colony in a pleasant little square. We ate lunch in a neat caf&eacute; I do not remember the name we just took pot luck. We followed the tour for the remainder of the afternoon. We saw the steps so famous from so many movies (Rodin, Amilee, and others). The rest of the day was spent wandering up and down streets in Montmarte looking at items in the tour book. We finished up at the Moulin Rouge but did not go in. From outside it was a disappointment. We took the metro from there to St. Germaine where we again took pot luck in a restaurant up an alley, shopped a little and then took the metro back to Rue Cler and our hotel.

For TCC-loves paris and all of those concerned with eating I promise to gather (if I can) the names of the eateries we frequented and put it all together in one message. It will be limited as we generally just did walk ins to interesting looking (or convenient) places. We were seldom disappointed. I am not a big gourmet food fan so my food talk will be as bland as my usual diet but I will offer it up later on.

This is the second time I posted this tonight. The first time it did not take??? Additionally, I am not sure but what I am talking to myself, but here goes another day's journey around Paris. Actually this one will be fairly short as the agenda was light.<BR>This day we went to Musee Marmottan - in the 16th. This was probably the most difficult place to reach that we experienced and it was not bad at all. This is a great little museum of art. Located in a mansion in the 16th this one is about a 5 or 6 block walk from the metro stop (if you do not go down the wrong street as we did). If you are a impressionist fan do not miss this museum. It is well worth the time going and coming. The walk is not long and there is a nice park with (someone said) the last hand cranked carousel. <BR>The museum is mainly Impressionist and Post impressionist paintings and there are maybe 100 painting total. Monet was well represented and there are a scattering of each of the others to be seen. We spent about 3 hours there total including time in the museum shop which managed to make a dent in my credit card.<BR>A walk back to the main district around the metro revealed a sizable little community with surprisingly nice shopping and some nice looking restaurants. The one we picked was crowded but full of locals from the shops and offices. We experienced a nice lunch and the least friendly waiter of our entire trip. However when I pointed it out to my wife she reminded me that he had only sounded curt when I asked if he spoke English, which he did not. She also pointed out that he was VERY busy as the place was extremely crowded.<BR>This day we were &quot;museumed&quot; out and chose to building gawk. We traveled to the 6th on the metro and toured Bon Marche department store and enjoyed the ceiling extraordinaire there. This building was built or designed by Eiffel (I cannot remember which). The remainder of the area had much interesting architecture so we wandered the streets for a while and then went back to the right bank to the area of Samartine's and shopped there for a while. All in all a very relaxing day (but I had a crick in my neck from gawking at the beautiful buildings. More later if anyone is reading.<BR>

I'm reading and enjoying! <BR>Thanks Mike

Great writing, great reading! Merci.<BR><BR>BUT, you didn't pay 35 Euro for that public sidewalk toilet, did you?<BR>35 cents is far more likely, I'd say. ;o)

Ursula<BR>Believe it or not the Euro normenclature is like this 1,35E instead of $1.35 like is used in the states. AT least that is always the way I saw it in writing so the ,35E was correct and yes it is about 35 cents American and worth every cent of it.

I have gotten out of order on the days and left out a day or rather a partial day. This was a Sunday so it would have been our seventh tour day. This morning we were up and at it again. A quick metro ride to the St Germain area and a short walk form the metro station to the Muse’ de Cluny. This museum is in a centuries old monastery right in the heart on the St Germain arrondisment and just steps from the Sorborne. The stone work is beautiful but the real treat is inside. Imagine our surprise to find we had arrived on “free Sunday” so we paid no fee. The museum is chock full of icons, sculptures, artifacts, old church furnishings and tapestries. There is a very famous set of tapestries in one of the upstairs rooms that are fascinating for their beauty and for the condition considering the age. All of this info is in guidebooks but it is definitely one not to miss. (they had nice restrooms also (modern) (I may make restrooms a topic one night. I remember eating lunch at a restaurant on the main drag in St Germain but do not think it was memorable. We were but a few short blocks from the isle de cite so we walked there spent more time at Notre dame, availed ourselves of the public restrooms below the square (previously mentioned). We visited the bird market on the Isle and then walked to the other island (St Louis) and then crossed over to the Right Bank. We took a walking tour along the river back to about the area of Samartine’s stopping to observe the exterior of City Hall. From there we caught the metro back to our area, ate dinner in the neighborhood and tucked it in for the night.

Mikex,<BR><BR>I was very happy to read your report on the Musee Cluny. This is one of my favorite places in Paris to visit. I could just set for hours and look at the tapestry of the Dame and the Unicorn! There are so many wonderful things to see there including the building if you love medivel history. You don't hear many people here at fodors mention Musee Cluny but I love it and am happy you enjoyed your visit!

Mike, keep writing. On the topic of cemeteries, Montparnasse is relatively small, as compared I think to Pierre Lachaise, (and it's flat) and there are some &quot;tombstones&quot; that will make you smile. Ask at the gate for the free map. If you go on a Sunday, you can walk another block to the Edgar Quinet metro stop for the outdoor art market where the artists sell directly to the public, and some of it is excellent.

<BR>Just topping this for more! ;o)<BR><BR>Mikex, I must have overlooked the comma, with your ,35E. It really irritated me somewhat, as I have never seen like this, but rather 0,35E or 0.35E.<BR>I would definitely put an '0' in front for better understanding.

Mike, I admire your &quot;sticktointiveness&quot; in posting your experiences and recollections. Thanks for helping me keep our memories of Paris alive!

Ursula, you are probably correct it might should have been 0,35E. If you will reread my first post, I do not claim to be a urbane globe trotter. I am just a working stiff grateful for all the help I got in planning my trip. I am just trying to help someone else benefit from the hours my wife and I spent planning our trip. Even with the little mistakes we made it turned out to be a dream trip come true. Keep reading folks. I still have a few more days to cover. Then if I haven't burned out I may give some observations on the common myths about Paris.

Mikex, please keep on posting. I'm planning to be in Paris in March and hopefully your experience will help with my plans. It's very generous of you to share with us.

What a day this was. We (or at least I) were rested and felt like doing things a little different. Our first outing was the metro to the Arch de Triumph. The wife took one look at the steps and said “no way.” She stayed in the arch while I did the 300 or so steps to the top of the arch. Paris form the top is beautiful. The fun thing here was to look down on the “round about” that circles the arch and watch the traffic. It is like watching bumper cars at the beach. (later on our way to the airport we experienced being among them and it was really like bumper cars). Just below the roof is a small museum and gift shop. <BR>From the Arch we walked toward the Louvre on Champs-Elysees. This was quite a trip. We walked for many blocks along this district and of course the wife had to shop the stores. We also stopped at a sidewalk caf&eacute; and had lunch. We continued strolling after the shopping district past a nice park and then to Place de Concorde with the obelisk, fountain and a grand view of the Eiffel tower. One picture we got was the obelisk with the Eiffel tower in the background.<BR>Next in line is Tuilereis Gardens. I cannot say I was particularly impressed with that end of the gardens. We walked about half way through and then went out to the street and shopped for souvenirs as we made our way toward the Louvre area again. This time we worked our way to the opera. We stopped in and too some pictures both inside and out. What a grand building. Then we went back to PrinTemps and Galleries Lafayette. One interesting footnote, near the Opera was an organ grinder but instead of a monkey he had a dog and a cat. Big deal you say! Well the dog and the cat were in a small bed together and both were sleeping peacefully. We ate dinner in the area and it was not memorable.<BR>

Digression: I want to cover a few points while they are on my mind.<BR>Rude French people: They were in hiding while I was there. I cannot believe I scared them all away but I must have. All of the others were so frightened that they were extra nice to me and to my wife. They helped me with directions, spoke English, were attentive when we wanted help in shops and department stores and just generally were as pleasant folks as I have encountered in any US city large or small.<BR>Dog poop on the streets: Again, I must have scared all of dog lovers so badly that they kept their dogs indoors and let the poop on newspapers. One of the things I have not mentioned is that in the morning while my wife got ready for the day, I would go for walks. Usually theses were only two or three miles but I did this almost every day we were there. I tried to go a different way each day and except for Sundays tried to finish on Rue Cler at the bakery where I would get our breakfast pastries. On Sundays I found another bakery that was open in another direction. I saw no dog poop worth mentioning.<BR>Pickpockets and Gypsies: They abound on the streets and in the subways. I carried very little money and two pieces of plastic in a money clip/card holder in my side pocket. Whenever I was in a crowd I always put a hand in my pocket. My Wife did carry a backpack purse but was able to tuck in the zipper pulls. In crowds she always carried it close to her body. I carried a backpack but we had combination (small) locks through all the zippers. This is a bit inconvenient when you need the camera but the precaution was worth the effort. I also wore a money belt in case I needed extra money or ID. <BR>

Mikex, great report. Love your sense of humour so keep it coming. Toni

Thanks to all for your encourgement. I have been out of town all day and it is past midnight. I will continue the report tomorrow if at all possible.

Love your report. Please continue. We are planning a trip in March and I am learning a lot. Thanks.

Mike - Thanks for a wonderful report. I was in Paris from Sept. 8th - Sept. 19th. I loved it. I guess the rude people were in hiding when I was there too. I got to see the wonderful, compassionate side of them as I was there during 9/11. They were nice before 9/11 and even more so afterwards.<BR><BR>Your postings of your adventures in Paris have been so pure, simple and refreshing. I love it.<BR><BR>I also love the new registration that Fodor's now has. It seems as though it has helped to rid this site of the joksters and hostility ridden people.<BR><BR>

Mike--your report is great! Sometimes, I think that people who are making their first trip report are a little afraid that those who have been here longer or have made several trips will see it as too elementary, but I feel that each person's experience gives us a fresh chance to &quot;see&quot; the things we've seen before. <BR><BR>I have used this site for a few years, planning and reporting(and re-living!) 2 trips to Paris(now I'm planning a 3rd) a trip to London, and a 3 city tour of Italy.<BR><BR> I found that most Fodorites are not only eager to share their insights for the benefit of others, but also enjoy the vicarious participation in travel that we all so obviously adore. Keep it up, we're eager to hear about your dining experiences.<BR><BR>By the way, I am looking forward to a visit to the Marmottan this trip. Thanks for the remarks.

The next day was sort of an “off-day” in the view that we did only two really “tourist” oriented items worth repeating. We did not rush out of bed this morning and when we did the trip was to the 14th Arrondissement and to the Catacombs. Now, I saw comments on this “attraction” that ranged up an down the scale from gruesome to fascinating to claustrophobic. My wife suffers a little from claustrophobia but it is more the type caused by crowds. She was not enthused about this venture but is a good sport and agreed to go along since I wanted too. She also was interested since the French resistance had used the catacombs for meeting and to evade the Germans during WWII. It was dark, it was a bit gruesome and it smelled a it dank and musty but it was fascinating. There were about 4 other small (2 or 3 people) groups that we met during our trek through the catacombs but they were all agreeable and for the most part American. The story as to the what, when and how of the catacombs is quite fascinating and well worth the few Euros to buy the little book at the entrance. One thing to note: You go down about 60 or so steps to get into the catacombs and then you walk for a long way and come up to the surface no where near where you descended. And don’t forget you must climb an equal number of steps to get back to the surface (my guess is around 65-70). We found a McDonalds (Yes we finally caved in) we went there and used the restrooms and had a coke each and rested.<BR>From this we went back to the Latin Quarter and browsed a bit and then went back to the 7th and had dinner early. Then we put on jJackets, walked back to the Eiffel Tower and went to the top again for our night time visit. The “City of Lights” really does justice to its nickname from the top of Mr. Eiffel’s tower. It is far too beautiful for my poor words to describe. It was a little blustery and the camera we took would not do night pictures. We exchanged with another couple and took each others pictures, so we have a nice picture of us framed in darkness &lt;G&gt;.<BR>That is all for tonight. <BR>

Another day at the Louvre. This time we went for the gold. We had picked a number of must see items so that was our goal and not much deterred us. We wanted to see Venus de Milo, the winged victory and the Mona Lisa and we did. After that we did a more leisurely tour of parts of the museum. For those of you following this, yes, it was our second trip to the Louvre. I could go back dozens of times and not see all I want to see. One of the real highlights is the sculpture gardens. The architects have closed in a couple courtyards by roofing over the top and made 3 or 4 story open galleries surrounded by open rooms for the smaller statuary. These sunlight filled courtyards would probably be a bit warm in the summer (they were in the Fall) but it was so pleasant after so many dark and gloomy corridors that it was very pleasing. We wanted to do the Napoleon apartments but found they were closed on that day. The museum is apparently somewhat understaffed so to compensate they close certain areas on different days of the week. It might be a good idea for you to stop by and get a closure list (you can get into the lobby for free –although I understand the entrance line can be very long at times.) Again I will mention the cafeteria as a great place to eat and relax for a while. The salads were superb as were the deserts. Since I cannot remember the entrees I either did not get one or they were not memorable.<BR>The old original ramparts in the basement were very interesting as were the artifacts uncovered while excavating. Other sites were just as interesting as those I have mentioned but again I need to warn you there are steps at every turn and not many elevators which are generally reserved for the handicapped. Be sure to go to the gallery of large paintings. This lies on the way from the Winged Victory to Mona Lisa. At the end of the gallery you will also find a very nice coffee shop and dinig facility tucked in the bend behind a grand staircase.<BR>That was all we did this day as again we stayed until closing.<BR>Hang on gang just a few more days to go.

Mike, thanks for your report! I'm really enjoying, and it's making me get more excited about my upcoming trip to France in May. Sounds like you and your wife really had a wonderful time, and enjoyed Paris to the fullest!

Thanks Sue and all others.<BR>This day we took the metro to Invallades station and changed to the RER for a trip out of town to Versailles. The train ride was pleasant but uneventful and only about 30-40 minutes in duration. We got off the train and luckily walked straight onto a local bus that took us to Versailles. It is an easy 4-5 block walk if you prefer to save a Euro or two but th edriver was plesant and we got to see a little of the town on the way.<BR>The line to get into the ticket lobby was long but moved quickly and we had our ticekts in a short time. We got basically the entire package including the guided garden tour which I wholeheartedly recommend. Our guide was a young French college student majoring in history. She was bright and cheerful and very informative about the gardens. We would have missed much of the detail had we gone alone.<BR>Next we went through the standard tour and here we made our biggest mistake. We should have rented the English language headset. I feel we missed 905 of the real history of the place for not getting this. There is so much to see in each of the rooms and so little description in the guide books and the booklet they give. The two most impressive features were the Chapel and of course the Hall of mirrors. You have all seen it in pictures and history books (signing of the treaty of Versailles) but no picture of movie can prepare you for the experience of being there. Do not miss this one.<BR>Next we ate a late lunch in the cafeteria in the basement near the entrance and moved on to the private apartment tour. Here we rented the cassettes and the tour was much better. This too was well worth the price. <BR>We were not through; we took the tram around to the outlying houses (mansions) My wife waited at petite palace while I walked the mile or so footpath to the little village that was built for Marie Antoinette. I enjoyed the visit but felt rushed. We were pretty well done in and it was nearly closing time, so we skipped the next house and went back to the main building and left. We waited for a while for the bus and gave up and walked back to the train station stopping at gift shops on the way. As luck would have it we walked into the RER train station and straight onto the train. This took us back to Invalides station where we switched back to the metro and to our hotel. All in all a very special day.<BR>

We are getting near the end of this trip and the interest has dropped off considerably. I will continue after tonight only if you are interested. This day was a clean up odds and ends day. We started the day by getting up late and then taking the Metro to Luxembourg gardens. I was very impressed with the park and am glad we got to go. It was pleasing in the sun and cool under the trees. Had I been a resident I would find myself drawn to this park on relaxing days. A good book and pleasant surroundings would be wonderful. From the gardens we walked the few blocks to the Panthenon, stopping along the way to shop for post cards and magnets. We did not go in the Pantheon as I has read it was OK but not a necessary stop. From there we walked side streets looking in shops and relaxing while we made our way to the river and over to the right bank. Our target was the Victor Hugo home &amp; museum. This was interesting and something to do on an “off” day. There is a garden (Park) across from his house and it was nice but not Luxembourg gardens. We also walked back to the Opera and to Galleries Lafayette for an item my wife wanted. Back to Samertine’s for a business card case for me. This was a tiring but fun day and since we were in the area we ate dinner on the left bank near Notre Dame. Then we looked at the bridges in the area with some care and got on the boats (Vendette??) at the end of the Isle de Cite for a nighttime cruse up and down the Seine. It was a pleasant tour with a guide who spoke very good English. We took the nearest metro home from there as we were very tired.

Mikex--Keep it up!

Mike - I've thoroughly enjoyed your trip reports......don't stop now.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Melissa

Mike, we share your view of Luxembourg Gardens and spent parts of two afternoons there. And, after successfully managing to secure chairs (no mean feat), we just sat there basking in the sun and enjoying the view of others just enjoying the park.

Howard, I wish I had some place like the Luxembourg Gardens to go even ocasionally here. &quot;Barb in GA&quot; and &quot;Muddy Paws&quot; thanks I am glad to know some one is reading.<BR>This is not another day but an important visit that I failed to cover on a previous day (or rather actually two days) the second Monday we were there (or was it Tuesday?—check your guide book) we decided to go to the Rodin Museum. Since it was only a half dozen blocks from our hotel and we would have had to go hither and yon on the metro to get there we decided to walk. This was the only really cool morning we had and the wind was really bad. Well, (you who are familiar with the Paris museums already guessed) it was closed!!! So we went elsewhere that day. When we did go back it was well worth the trip. The museum is in the great mans house which even though in the middle of the city is light and airy and quiet pleasant. There were many of his sculptures on display in the house along with those of his mistress who in her own right was quite talented. The gardens and surrounds are also very nice. If I were rich (the heck with famous) I would love to have such a beautiful place. The house, while large was not ostentatious. We got a very good picture of the “Thinker” with the Eiffel tower in the background just showing through the morning haze. An eating hint for here. In the garden the (probably) stables have been converted to a cafeteria style dining facility. The food was excellent. Since the museum does not open until 9:30-1000, if you go first thing in the morning and do the house and the garden you will finish in time for an early lunch. The food is very serviceable and the price very reasonable.

Thanks so much for bringing back our wonderful memories of Paris. We loved the Rodin Museum, too, but sadly missed the Marmottan...next time.

Great report! You've brought back my memories of Paris. Just wish I had the time and money to return again soon. <BR>Tammy

Roseanne &amp; Tammylou. I really miss Paris. I would move there if it were possible. However, I am a big city lover and would also be happy in any big city. I have visited most all of the US large cities at sometime or the other and found only a few that I did not want to return to. However, the love of my life likes to visit but not to live so that is more important. Paris was really special and we were very fortunate to have long enough time to see most all of what was important to us, have a little time to lounge in parks and shop in the super department stores. We also had the time to look up at the architecture of Paris and wonder how so many of these grand buildings survived two world wars with such minimal damage.

Mike, your trip report is fascinating - thanks so much! <BR><BR>I realize that you visited in September, but we are considering a 2-wk trip to France in the Spring of 2004 -- any recommendations on visitng in April vs May? Also, we are thinking of spending about 1 week in Paris and the other in the countryside -- any comments/recommendations from anyone? We have never been to France before.

Mike,thanks again for the wonderful Paris report. I'm going to be there this May...can't wait.<BR><BR>Jeannie, I am going to be there in May. I've heard it's a great time of year to go. You will love it. I was there is Sept. 2001. What was suppose to be an eight day trip turned out to be twelve days. I was there during 911 and couldn't get home. The French couldn't have been nicer. I was treated beautifully and am hoping the same will hold true when I go in May.

Jeannie and Madison. I personally have no experience in May or April, however, one of my wife's friends was there in April 2000 and visited the city and Provonce. I did not hear about the weather being anything but nice. At least it was not severly cold. as she too is a FL girl and where ever we go it is always too cool &lt;G&gt; Have a wonderful trip -- both of your! I will try to finish this thread in the next few nights.

Jeannie,<BR>We were there for two weeks last May, and it was great. A little rain, but mostly sunny, comfortable weather. May 1 and 8 are French holidays. We were there on the latter--which is Liberation Day (the French version of VE Day)--and really enjoyed seeing the French at their leisure. Also, it is one of two special times each year when they fly a huge French flag inside the Arc de Triomphe, a most memorable sight.