Another fan of Marco Polo here. Have gone there for years as I usually stay close by. Winning combination of food and atmosphere.

Glad you found Le Petit Pontoise. I took my Dad there, and have since on back again. Enjoying your report!

"gone back" not on back. Darn iPad.

denisea---The confirmation from The Fork was the right Marco Polo at 8 Rue de Conde, so I'm still not happy with them.

Another gorgeous morning in Paris, warm & sunny.(Mon. Oct.3,11)

We had never been to the Pompidou as modern art really isn't our thing. But this was a vacation for places we hadn't been in Paris. We were so glad we opened our minds a bit. I think we spent 3 hrs. there. Some of the art was a little bizarre for our tastes, but so much of it was fascinating. Along with the views of Paris from the top, it turned out to be a successful day.

More walking---we try to go a different way to and from a place. A little more shopping and a stop for another yummy, flower shaped cone from Amorino. I think this was #4. I love the pistaccio with vanilla and a little chocolate. The chocolate had to replace my favorite coconut which wasn't available all week. Thankfully all of the miles walked counteracted the possible weight gain.

No dinner plans, so we thought we'd try and get a table at "Atelier Matre Albert" without a reservation. Other times imposible, this time we were shown to a table right away.

Maybe because it was 2 weeks later than our usual trip to Paris, but the restaurants all seemed to have open tables. Is tourism down(you'd never tell by the lines at Notre Dame tower) or was it the time of year?

We both had a salad w/chicken livers What a treat! This is something I usually wouldn't order--not my favorite--but MDH talked me into it. The chicken livers were very small, mild and tender. With fresh salad and a lite dressing, it was delicious.

Followed by Sea Bass w/basmati rice for me and roasted chicken w/dauphinoisse(sp?) potatoes for MDH. This is one of the reasons we return here---the food is great and those potatoes are the best.
2 glasses of wine 94 Euros

Tue.---our last day in Paris

We took the Metro to th 16th to see the Monets at The Marmottan Museum. As we exited the station, we must have made a wrong turn and were thoroughly lost in no time at all. That adventure turned out to be fun. We saw more of the 16th than we expected to see and finally stopped in a real estate office for directions. The gentleman was so nice to us and headed us in the right direction.

We, like most of you, have seen many Monets in different museums around the world. This collection was captivating. It's amazing how some of his work just glows like it is backlit.

After packing and getting ready for a morning flight home, we headed out for dinner with no plans again. So unlike us,usually we'd have reservations, especially on the last night.

The weather was so warm and lovely that when we came upon "Auberge Notre Dame" 69 Quai de la Tournelle on the left bank we decided to try it because we could sit among the stately trees.

This wouldn't be our normal kind of place to try because they had everything you can think of on the menu. How can all of those items be good? At the tables next to us we saw huge platters of fresh seafood and many people having beef fondue. Plus pasta and pizza and many other choices.

As I now look on Trip Advisor, it gets terrible reviews, but I have to say that we really enjoyed it.

We shared a gigantic salad (so glad we shared, because it was huge.) MDH had spaghetti Bouglanese and I had a tasty pasta with a cream sauce and salmon. Good white wine, coffee and a crepe flambe w/cointreau---yummm!

The food was very good, but not outstanding. What was outstanding was sitting among those huge trees in the warm breeze. You couldn't actually see the river, but when the tour boats came by their lights lit up the trees from below until they just glowed. It was a lovely way to spend our last dinner in Paris.

So we head back to Wisconsin from our favorite place in the world. We really enjoyed all of our adventures and thoroughly felt at home on Ile St. Louis. We were happy with all of the restaurants that we chose. And the weather? This was the best weather we had on any of our trips to Europe. Yes, we'd always have some nice days, but this time it was unbelieveable for the whole trip.

If I ever get the photos together, I'll post them.

can't wait to see the photos...I hope to make it to Marmottan this trip!

Thanks for the great trip report and the restaurant suggestions. We have enjoyed Petit Pontoise and are looking forward to our trip in March- though I fear I have more restaurants than we can get to in one week. I guess there will have to be another trip to Paris in the future. C'est domage!!

Tpayt: great report! Thanks for everything, including restaurant reccos. you left the day we arrived back in Paris, and I must say, the good weather must have gone home with you! yesterday slightly damp and dreary, but today was good enough for another adventure!!

looking forward to seeing those photos.

Thanks for the great report.I am looking forward to my May 2012 trip and will try 1 or 2 of your restaurant suggestions.

Thanks, TPAYT, always good to have restaurant recommendations. We stayed on Ile St Louis in September and I don't even remember seeing l'Orangerie....sometimes I'm so focused on getting somewhere, I do not see what's in front of me. Need to slow down!

Enjoyed your trip report and the food sounds wonderful. All makes me want to go back to Paris.

Wow...so weird about The Fork and the confirmation!!! I know we have never been able to make a reservation at MP without calling...such a small place and they don't seem in becoming high tech. I would be ticked off, too!

TPAYT, really enjoyed your report, and intend to try a few of your restaurant suggestions when we go to Paris over Christmas week. So glad you had wonderful weather. . .those strolls in Paris are the best. Just hoping that our weather isn't so bitterly cold that we can't enjoy some of the same. We're hoping for a few sunny wintery days!

I would imagine that Christmas time in Paris would be magical no matter what the weather. I'll be watching for your trip report.

I'm finally getting back to editing the photos from our trip and hope to post them soon. Many are repetitive from other trips but some are different and good.

So glad to read your report. I've been back a month and suffering serious withdrawal. Getting to tag along with you made it better. I love doing Paris just the way you do...lots of walking, new adventures, and delicious food. Thank you so much for your great descriptions of all you did. Only 11 more months until I get to go back!

Just now catching up on your trip report and enjoyed reading! Le Petit Pontoise is a favorite of ours as is Rôtisserie du Beaujolais (sister restaurant to Tour D'Argent). Petit Pontoise is bustling with people every time we've visited. I don't remember the owner's name but she's lovely and even when busy helps me along with my poor French. The rack of lamb was one of the best dishes I've had in Paris.

I'm glad your dinner at L'Orangerie was good so we may give it another try in December. Sometimes good places have bad days so it sounds like it's worth a second try.

@AGM_Cape_Cod " I guess there will have to be another trip to Paris in the future."
I see you are getting the Paris bug. Welcome to the club. :D

I've enjoyed reading your report, TPAYT, especially the notes on restaurants! Glad that you had good weather for your boat ride on canal St Martin! It's on the list for our next trip to Paris!

What were the reasons you decided to stay on Ile St Louis?

2010---We have enjoyed all of the areas we have stayed in Paris, but Ile St. Louis keeps calling us back. For us the location is perfect. It's a close walk to most of our favorite hangouts, and easy to get the Metro for farther away places. With the 2 small grocery stores and 3 bakeries, it fits our needs. We have been happy with all 4 of the different apts. we have chosen on the Ile.

A walk along the Seine after dinner on a warm evening is always a must for us. When we stayed in other areas, we always found ourselves heading to the river after dinner.

I'm another Fodorite that keeps going back to Ile St. Louis for all the same reasons and more.

TPAYT - I can see why you chose to stay on Ile St Louis! It must feel so comfortable to return to the neighbourhood after 4 stays there!

We considered an apartment on Ile St Louis for our up-coming trip. It will be our 4th trip to Paris but our first time renting an apartment. We decided to stay in the 5th arr (on rue Galande, just one block to the Seine) so, not far from where you were!

We will definitely explore Ile St Louis a little more & take in its charm!

Thank you!