Paris---spendid as ever!!
 

In my haste I forgot to tag this as a trip report so I will do so and add the first installment here.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...id-as-ever.cfm

We were looking forward to a new adventure on our first full day in Paris. We are not the "escorted tour" type of travellers and usually go on our own, but on my list for many trips was the Opera Garnier so I booked a 2:30 English tour with the company below. It was $18 a person US.

http://www.getyourguide.com/en/tours...rnier/?id=3633

After a leisurely breakfast of things we normaly don't eat----baguette with butter and raspberry jam, tasty pastries---plus fresh squeezed OJ(the shop down the street runs the oranges through a machine when you order it) and coffee, we decided to walk to Galleries Layfayette and our 2:30 tour at the Opera Garnier. We had plenty of time to enjoy the streets of Paris on the way.

The Galleries Layfayette is always a WOW moment. A splendid setting to wear out that strip on your credit card! MDH was snapping photos one after the other. The perfume displays were clever and inspiring. So much so that he treated me to a lovely bottle of "Ricci, Ricci." It smells great, but I think it was the display of 50 or more gorgeous rose colored bottles in a row that caught his photographer's eye. And, yes those photos are coming soon.

We headed to the 5th floor to find some dresses for our granddaughters, but no luck at all. Then it was time for the Opera tour.

This was one of the highlights of our trip. Sitting in the stone lower level of the opera house, MDH was giving me the "evil eye"---it didn't look promising at all. Then our guide appeared (we had seen a few older, boring type guides head out before our group) and she was a delight. A younger gal, she was confidant, enthusiastic, informative, and obviously loved telling the story of Garnier and how he won the contest to design the opera house.

Every level appeared more beautiful than the last. The gallery reminded us of Versailles and the hall of mirrors. Her stories of the people of that time were enchanting and creative. MDH was snapping photos everywhere. He was in his element and I was in mine. I loved hearing about what life was like in Paris during Garnier's time. The crowning glory was the theater itself. What oppulence! The Chagall ceiling was a wonder to behold.

You can do the opera house on your own at a lower cost, but I highly suggest taking a tour.

Took the Metro back to relax for awhile. This is why we like an apt. instead or a hotel. From 5 or 6pm we can enjoy some music, coffee, a glass of wine, some great cheese and crackers, etc., and relax until going out for dinner at 8 or 9pm .

Dinner was at a new "find" for us. I believe we saw it on Fodors forums. "Le Petit Pontoise" at 9 Rue Pontoise was a short walk to the Left Bank from our apt. A charming small room, we were greeted warmly and felt at home. I liked the fact that I could order a bottle of good Sancerre wine and just pay for what I drank. MDH had foie gras(how do you spell that anyway?) and I had Camembert for a starter, then steak and mashed pot. and shrimp & scallop rissotto (guess who had which) followed by pralines with raspberries and one of the best Grand Marnier souffles I've ever had for dessert. At 100 Euros it was a good deal.

Now for a walk along the Seine back to the apt. This is one of the things we love about Paris and the fantastic weather was cooperating fully.

How nice you found Le Petit Pontoise, and happy to hear it has not lost its charm or discipline in presenting quality food over the years. It is tiny. Did you need to reserve?

(Nice to hear that you didn't have to contend with rain.)

I was thrilled reading your trip report. Good to know you enjoyed a lot of things in your trip. I got a pretty good idea for our itinerary for Paris now. Thanks!

Opera Garnier is beautiful isn't it?

The restaurant sounds so good and I love a souffle! I had such a great one at Le Souffle last year (Grand Marnier - and the waiter left a bottle of GM on the table for me to add as I ate).

Can't wait to hear more.

t

Oh, goodie! We have a table reserved at Le Petit Pontoise tomorrow evening!! Now I'm salivating.
we also ate two weeks ago at Le Cigale Recamier, 4, rue Recamier (01 45 48 86 58) where every course can be a souffle!!
Our friends knew it, but I don't know how expensive it was - I was so jet lagged at the tIme!!

I do have some great photos of the food at Le Petit Pontoise but I had forgotten how long it takes to get photos into an album to share. It's going to be a while.

taconictraveler---if you are there now, I must tell you about our best "new" restaurant find. It was "L'Orangerie" on Rue St. Louis en Isle. We looked in the window and took a chance. I'll include it as I go along in my report, but this one was a keeper. Goat cheese salad, lamb chops, melon, salad mix plus chicken w/crayfish(odd, but delish) and macron w/rasp and one of the best wines I had--Fournier '06 Pouilly Fume Grand Curvee. If you have time, try it. Le Petit Pontoise was good, but this place was exceptional.

The next day we didn't get up until 9:30, and at home I'm up at 6:30-7. I have to say that we have had fancier apt's (Guest Service) but this was the quietest and most comfortable ever. After baguettes and pastry and coffee we headed to Lux. Gardens. The weather was so perfect, blue skies, warm sun---why didn't I bring a sundress and sandals?

Lunch in the park followed by a walk to Montparnasse and Raspail---why? Because we didn't find anything for our granddaughters at Galleries Layfayette so we we headed to our favorite kids store, Mini Junior on the corner of Montparnasse and Raspail.

This shop is the one we always find what we want. She has Eliena et lena (sp?) dresses that are perfect. Expensive? 100 Euros plus. Yes, but very wearable and washable. I can't tell you how often these dresses were worn in the past. Very stylish, but also durable. They are always a big hit.

Me? I got a key chain, a scarf, and some perfume, but I splurge on the granddaughters.

This evening we met up with a couple who owned an apt. across the street from us (which we have rented in the past.) We had drinks at their place and went to dinner at "Au Bougnat" at 26 Rue Chanoisse, just a few blocks from Notre Dame.

This has been one of our favorites. We had an amuse bouche of salmon carpaccio with dill, shrimp risotto & foie gras, followed by steak and frittes. With wine, 75 Euros per couple.

On the way home we stopped at Berthillon for ice cream----I'm sorry, but it can't compair to Amorino! Just my opinion.

The next day----
We just can't get a handle on this gorgeous weather. We've been to the Eiffel Tower so many times, but we had to take the Metro there to get some new "blue sky" photos.

kerouac----because of your recent photo essay and the fantastic weather, we finally made it to Canal St. Martin for an afternoon cruise. The beginning underground part and the first locks were thrilling. Then it got a little slow, but we were enjoying the wonderful sunshine, and the end in the basin was quite interesting. I would definitely reccommend it, but only on a nice day.

Another great find:
Walking along Rue St. Louis en Isle in the evening, we looked in the window of "L'Orangerie" restaurant and decided to try it. This was our best dinner. Filo wrapped, goat cheese salad, followed by lamb chops for me. MDH, melon-salad mix, followed by Chicken w/crayfish & pasta(odd, but delish) and a shared dessert of fresh raspberries w/macron.

Also the best wine I had on our trip---Fournier, Pouilly Fume Grand Cru. 109 Euro

Keep the report coming, just loving those new resto suggestions. Thanks,
Schnauzer

Tpayt: Thanks for suggestion? Will definitely try, but ONLY if they are open as we leave Tuesday, sob,sob.
which apartment are you staying in?

what I meant to say was "open Monday" of course!

I'm glad you enjoyed the cruise on the canal St. Martin; it's true that the better the weather, the more charming the ride is, particularly in the autumn.

Loving this report - please more!

TPAYT...very interested in trying your restaurant choice on Rue Ile St. Louis....love the charm of the street! And agree that you just can't do better than Berthillon ice cream! I can't wait to have the salted caramel again!

Sat. took us over to market around St. Germain. Flowers, fish, cheese, produce (what impressive tomatoes)honey, and other products. I'd love to be able to shop there every Sat.

We then went to check out the "Hotel Parc St. Severin" at 22 Rue de la Parcheminerie. We saw it mentioned on Fodors and wanted to check it out for those times we're here just a few days. The location is perfect, the price good, and it looks very nice (didn't check out the rooms though.)

On our walk back, we passed St. Chapelle. We had been inside before, but it was a gray, cloudy day and some of the windows were covered over for restoration. The line was very short and the sun was out, so we decided to have another look. Quite a different experience. Dazzling windows and sparkling lights on the floor. It was a joy to stand in the light of St. Chapelle and we were so glad that we took the time to do so.

17:30---time for a rest, some music, a good book, and a glass of wine. This is one of the reasons we like to have an apt. We had our Ipod, but had found a great light jazz station on the radio that fit the bill.

Dinner time!
"Le Tastevin" on Rue St. Louis en Isle. Such a cute, very small room (make a reservation.)
Me
Escargot(OK, not great)
Sole Menuiere(fantastic and the waiter was impressed at my filleting capabilities)
Profiterols(again just OK)
MDH
Foie Gras w/ gr. beans(very good)
Steak w/ raisin sauce(odd and just OK)
Profiterols

Along w/ coffee and a half bottle of Fume Blanc 131 Euros

We did get a laugh when we were first sat at the table. MDH removed his napkin and moved the silverware a bit further apart. The woman (owner, I think) came rushing over and said no, no and moved it back closer together. What was that all about? This restaurant gets a lot of good press. For us, it was just OK, but I will say that the sole was one of the best I've had.

Sun. brought a leisurely day in Lux. Gardens again. Usually Sun. was a day for concerts, petanque, art exhibits, etc. None of that was going on. Maybe because it was the first weekend in Oct. and we are usually here a few weeks before that. In all of our many strolls in the park through the years, we had never seen the petanque courts totally empty.

The rest of the day----walk, walk, walk. Maybe it sounds boring to some, but the streets of Paris on a delightful warm, sunny day can't be beat.

Dinner at Marco Polo, 8 Rue de Conde. This is one of our favorite restaurants and we've probably been there 10+ times.

WARNING: We made a reservation on "The Fork" 2 weeks ahead of time and were sent a confirmation # by "The Fork." Luckily on a walk near the restaurant a few days earlier, we went to check on it. "Marco Polo" said they do not take reservations on the internet from anyone. Thankfully we were still able to get a good table for Sun. night. We were entertaining friends, so it was important to us.

We have no fault with "Marco Polo", but we were not happy with "The Fork" sending us a confirmation. It could have been embarassing for us as it is a very busy place and without a reservation we would have been left out.

To start, we all shared some melon and prosciutto along with tomatoes, salad, and mozerella. Our 4 main courses were a variety of veal and pasta dishes. Along w/coffe and some great Pinot Grigio it was 170 Euros for 4 people. Again, this is one of our favorites in Paris---sometimes you just need a little Italian food instead of Foie Gras.

2 days left and we already don't want to go home. The next 2 days will be new places for us----The Pompidou, The Marmottan & wandering the 16th along with 2 wonderful dinners. Coming soon.

Still working on the photos!!!

taconictraveler---here's the website, #53. We were very happy with it and would stay there again. Lots of light (no view though) and extremely quiet. 8 nights 1344 Euros.

http://www.servissimo-paris.com/apar...-paris_EN.html

Tpayt: Loving your report,and guess what? on your recommendation, we called L'Orangeerie and went for lunch today, because they are closed tomorrow!
Sooooooo glad we did! I just had that goats cheese in phyllo with salad, and Bethillon ice cream, but we managed a half bottle of that pouilly fume you recommended. delish! DH loved it, even though ot was a newer year and not the grand cuvee, we still loved it.
Can't thank you enough for the tip!!

<i>sometimes you just need a little Italian food instead of Foie Gras</i>

That is totally normal and is why the French consider Italian restaurants to be local cuisine as well. I am always amazed when in some these reports people are embarrassed to admit that they went to an Italian restaurant one night.

(And even though we are not talking about pizza, it is interesting to note that the U.S. eats the most pizza per capita in the world, followed by France. Americans eat six times more pizza than the Italians, but the French only eat four times more pizza.)

taconictraveler----I still have to finish the last 2 days, but I thought I'd give you another suggestion for dinner. We ate at "Auberge Notre Dame" along the left bank on our last night. The weather was warm and sitting outside was perfect. The trees are huge, and as the boats come along the river, the trees light up from the bottom and just glow. You can't see the river so when the trees started lighting up it was a surprise. The food and wine were very good. Fresh sea food and a large variety of other items. We noticed a lot of people having fondue.

Oh, TPAYT, you know I am jealous of you being at Marco Polo! Especially, because the melon and prosciutto we had there a few years ago was the best I have had anywhere!

I suspect the issue with La Fourchette may come from two different restaurants. I believe there is a place called Marco Polo Cafe in Paris that is not "our" Marco Polo.

Kerouac-glad to know the locals understand the need to not eat French food everyday, just as we wouldn't eat the same cuisine day after day here in the US. For some reason when we tell others we went to an Italian place in France, they can't understand it. Kinda silly. Regarding the pizza stat, I suspect the pizza the French are chowing down are is of better quality than so much of what goes for pizza here in the US (sorry, Pizza Hut and Domino's, thanks, but no thanks).

Another fan of Marco Polo here. Have gone there for years as I usually stay close by. Winning combination of food and atmosphere.

Glad you found Le Petit Pontoise. I took my Dad there, and have since on back again. Enjoying your report!

"gone back" not on back. Darn iPad.

denisea---The confirmation from The Fork was the right Marco Polo at 8 Rue de Conde, so I'm still not happy with them.

Another gorgeous morning in Paris, warm & sunny.(Mon. Oct.3,11)

We had never been to the Pompidou as modern art really isn't our thing. But this was a vacation for places we hadn't been in Paris. We were so glad we opened our minds a bit. I think we spent 3 hrs. there. Some of the art was a little bizarre for our tastes, but so much of it was fascinating. Along with the views of Paris from the top, it turned out to be a successful day.

More walking---we try to go a different way to and from a place. A little more shopping and a stop for another yummy, flower shaped cone from Amorino. I think this was #4. I love the pistaccio with vanilla and a little chocolate. The chocolate had to replace my favorite coconut which wasn't available all week. Thankfully all of the miles walked counteracted the possible weight gain.

No dinner plans, so we thought we'd try and get a table at "Atelier Matre Albert" without a reservation. Other times imposible, this time we were shown to a table right away.

Maybe because it was 2 weeks later than our usual trip to Paris, but the restaurants all seemed to have open tables. Is tourism down(you'd never tell by the lines at Notre Dame tower) or was it the time of year?

We both had a salad w/chicken livers What a treat! This is something I usually wouldn't order--not my favorite--but MDH talked me into it. The chicken livers were very small, mild and tender. With fresh salad and a lite dressing, it was delicious.

Followed by Sea Bass w/basmati rice for me and roasted chicken w/dauphinoisse(sp?) potatoes for MDH. This is one of the reasons we return here---the food is great and those potatoes are the best.
2 glasses of wine 94 Euros

Tue.---our last day in Paris

We took the Metro to th 16th to see the Monets at The Marmottan Museum. As we exited the station, we must have made a wrong turn and were thoroughly lost in no time at all. That adventure turned out to be fun. We saw more of the 16th than we expected to see and finally stopped in a real estate office for directions. The gentleman was so nice to us and headed us in the right direction.

We, like most of you, have seen many Monets in different museums around the world. This collection was captivating. It's amazing how some of his work just glows like it is backlit.

After packing and getting ready for a morning flight home, we headed out for dinner with no plans again. So unlike us,usually we'd have reservations, especially on the last night.

The weather was so warm and lovely that when we came upon "Auberge Notre Dame" 69 Quai de la Tournelle on the left bank we decided to try it because we could sit among the stately trees.

This wouldn't be our normal kind of place to try because they had everything you can think of on the menu. How can all of those items be good? At the tables next to us we saw huge platters of fresh seafood and many people having beef fondue. Plus pasta and pizza and many other choices.

As I now look on Trip Advisor, it gets terrible reviews, but I have to say that we really enjoyed it.

We shared a gigantic salad (so glad we shared, because it was huge.) MDH had spaghetti Bouglanese and I had a tasty pasta with a cream sauce and salmon. Good white wine, coffee and a crepe flambe w/cointreau---yummm!

The food was very good, but not outstanding. What was outstanding was sitting among those huge trees in the warm breeze. You couldn't actually see the river, but when the tour boats came by their lights lit up the trees from below until they just glowed. It was a lovely way to spend our last dinner in Paris.

So we head back to Wisconsin from our favorite place in the world. We really enjoyed all of our adventures and thoroughly felt at home on Ile St. Louis. We were happy with all of the restaurants that we chose. And the weather? This was the best weather we had on any of our trips to Europe. Yes, we'd always have some nice days, but this time it was unbelieveable for the whole trip.

If I ever get the photos together, I'll post them.

can't wait to see the photos...I hope to make it to Marmottan this trip!

Thanks for the great trip report and the restaurant suggestions. We have enjoyed Petit Pontoise and are looking forward to our trip in March- though I fear I have more restaurants than we can get to in one week. I guess there will have to be another trip to Paris in the future. C'est domage!!

Tpayt: great report! Thanks for everything, including restaurant reccos. you left the day we arrived back in Paris, and I must say, the good weather must have gone home with you! yesterday slightly damp and dreary, but today was good enough for another adventure!!

looking forward to seeing those photos.

Thanks for the great report.I am looking forward to my May 2012 trip and will try 1 or 2 of your restaurant suggestions.

Thanks, TPAYT, always good to have restaurant recommendations. We stayed on Ile St Louis in September and I don't even remember seeing l'Orangerie....sometimes I'm so focused on getting somewhere, I do not see what's in front of me. Need to slow down!

Enjoyed your trip report and the food sounds wonderful. All makes me want to go back to Paris.

Wow...so weird about The Fork and the confirmation!!! I know we have never been able to make a reservation at MP without calling...such a small place and they don't seem in becoming high tech. I would be ticked off, too!

TPAYT, really enjoyed your report, and intend to try a few of your restaurant suggestions when we go to Paris over Christmas week. So glad you had wonderful weather. . .those strolls in Paris are the best. Just hoping that our weather isn't so bitterly cold that we can't enjoy some of the same. We're hoping for a few sunny wintery days!

I would imagine that Christmas time in Paris would be magical no matter what the weather. I'll be watching for your trip report.

I'm finally getting back to editing the photos from our trip and hope to post them soon. Many are repetitive from other trips but some are different and good.

So glad to read your report. I've been back a month and suffering serious withdrawal. Getting to tag along with you made it better. I love doing Paris just the way you do...lots of walking, new adventures, and delicious food. Thank you so much for your great descriptions of all you did. Only 11 more months until I get to go back!

Just now catching up on your trip report and enjoyed reading! Le Petit Pontoise is a favorite of ours as is Rôtisserie du Beaujolais (sister restaurant to Tour D'Argent). Petit Pontoise is bustling with people every time we've visited. I don't remember the owner's name but she's lovely and even when busy helps me along with my poor French. The rack of lamb was one of the best dishes I've had in Paris.

I'm glad your dinner at L'Orangerie was good so we may give it another try in December. Sometimes good places have bad days so it sounds like it's worth a second try.

@AGM_Cape_Cod " I guess there will have to be another trip to Paris in the future."
I see you are getting the Paris bug. Welcome to the club. :D

I've enjoyed reading your report, TPAYT, especially the notes on restaurants! Glad that you had good weather for your boat ride on canal St Martin! It's on the list for our next trip to Paris!

What were the reasons you decided to stay on Ile St Louis?

2010---We have enjoyed all of the areas we have stayed in Paris, but Ile St. Louis keeps calling us back. For us the location is perfect. It's a close walk to most of our favorite hangouts, and easy to get the Metro for farther away places. With the 2 small grocery stores and 3 bakeries, it fits our needs. We have been happy with all 4 of the different apts. we have chosen on the Ile.

A walk along the Seine after dinner on a warm evening is always a must for us. When we stayed in other areas, we always found ourselves heading to the river after dinner.

I'm another Fodorite that keeps going back to Ile St. Louis for all the same reasons and more.

TPAYT - I can see why you chose to stay on Ile St Louis! It must feel so comfortable to return to the neighbourhood after 4 stays there!

We considered an apartment on Ile St Louis for our up-coming trip. It will be our 4th trip to Paris but our first time renting an apartment. We decided to stay in the 5th arr (on rue Galande, just one block to the Seine) so, not far from where you were!

We will definitely explore Ile St Louis a little more & take in its charm!

Thank you!