Paris in winter? A big success!
 

We have been to Paris many times. Mostly in Sept.-Oct. & Twice in June with granddaughters.
The fall is our favorite time to be there. June is delightful but more crowded.

When a great deal came up for Dec. we coudn’t resist and snapped it up. A week at Xmas time?
Sounds lovely....and it was.

Airfare on United (very good flight, 100+ movies & actually good food) came with 1 night at The Madison Hotel on St. Germain. We had stayed there years ago, before the renovation, and loved he property & location. The new look is stunning AND we got upgraded. How did that happen? The room was beautiful and the included breakfast was excellent.

After getting settled we browsed the Xmas market across the street and had lunch at Les Deux Magots, just so-so. A short rest, more shopping, and dinner at La Jacobine in the passage at Rue Saint-Andre des Arts. Comfort food at its best. The beef stew with tomatoes & olives was perfect for 2 jet-lagged people. Wonderful French bread dunked in that sauce......yummmm! A little wine, coffee, and a chocolate, pear crumble, 56 Euros. We’ll definitely be back next trip.

The next day, after a tasty breakfast in a “wow” setting at The Madison, we went to Monoprix to stock up on a few basics for the apt. Booked thru Paris Perfect, the Loupiac apt. at 25 Place Dauphine on Ile de Cite was our place for the next 5 nights. I don’t have enough words to describe this apt., building, and location. Gorgeous, stunning, and every other adjective you can think of.
400 yr. old building, renovated 2 yrs. ago. Perfect combination of up-to-date technology combined with old world charm.

After unpacking etc. we were off to explore the neighborhood. We had walked thru Pl. Dauphine many times, and over the last 2 years. noticed the scaffolding covering our building....haha, “our building,” like we owned it! Later, dinner La Rose de France across the square was a huge success. Onion soup, foil gras, grilled pork chops, and wonderful apple cake. Along with wine & coffee 100 Euros. Service and presentation of dishes was excellent.

More to follow.......

Happy to read that your trip was successful! :) Was there any inconvenience related to protest events that were happening last month?

I wonder if those apartments are located in the old hotel Henri IV? Thirty years ago we had booked there for our first trip to Paris on the recommendations of friends. When we got there, our room wasn't ready but they were going to let us leave our luggage in it but it looked so bad that Mr. 7 said the reason he worked was so that he didn't have to stay in places like that. To get to the bathroom down the hall you had to walk outside the building on a catwalk. We changed hotels!

If it's the same place, it would be interesting to see it again, renovated. We loved staying in the 7th last time, but this looks like an excellent location, as well.

Great start, TPAYT, and I'm eager to read more!

I wonder if that apartment is properly registered. I don't see any mention of it on a number of websites, and ParisPerfect has a history of renting at least some unregistered properties. Sure is pretty, though way out of our Paris price range.

Following along with your Paris TR. Like you, we had visited Paris at other seasons before enjoying a winter visit. We're eager to read more of your experiences.

Yes, 25 Place Dauphine was the Henri IV. Paris Perfect owns/renovated/totally gutted the entire property.

I visited somebody in that hotel once. I was amazed that there could be such a cheap hotel at that location -- with the toilet down the hall. The rate made it definitely worth the inconvenience.

The old hotel had 3 small bedrooms and 1 bathroom on each floor. There is a book in each apt. that shows the renovation step by step. Now there is 1 apt. per floor.
For our usual Sept. visit this would be way above our budget but in mid Dec. (a little under 300 Euros a night) was right on. Real luxury at a price we could afford. My favorite things were the TV built into the mirror above the fireplace AND fresh baguettes delivered to the lobby each morning. Paris Perfect was excellent to deal with from the first email forward.

frankovbm......no inconvenience at all due to the protests. We did not go to the Champs E. At all.
On Sat. (the usual protest day) we did go to the 2nd for lunch with a friend. That is as close as we got to anyyellow vests. No harm to us though. I’ll explain when I review that day later. Anywhere else we went you never would have known there was anything going on.

Gotta go......I’ll continue later.

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Wow! Now I know what I want for Christmas next year. Nice TR - looking forward to more.

We are currently in a Paris Perfect apartment for a four-week stay and yes, it is registered.

Excited to read this -- and completely appalled that I passed up the cheap flights to Paris this year -- the deals were amazing, so good for you for grabbing one! Agree that Les Deux Magots is so-so, but the ambiance is a 10! :) More please!

Wow. What a nice apartment in a great location. I can't believe it has been almost 4 years since we were last in Paris - you are making me miss Paris more than ever. Looking forward to more.

A couple of years ago we rented a Paris Perfect appt. in the 7th during the Christmas season and it was lovely... as TPAYT said, roughly the price per night of what we'd have expected to pay for a hotel room but much more spacious in a wonderful residential neighborhood. I loved running about 3 doors down to the neighborhood boulanger to pick up croissants for breakfast of a morning. One of many special memories.

TPAYT, your neighborhood doesn't look all that residential... any bakeries and markets nearby? I love the location but that would be something to think about for an apartment rental. Thanks.

Lucky you! I hope you have a view of the Eiffel Tower. Their apartments are beautiful!

Hi TPAYT,

I am enjoying your trip report very much! I always go to Paris in the winter, mainly Nov or early Dec, but thus year I'll be there in Jan. Your report is fabulous, and a fabulous teaser for my trip in 3 weeks!

That apartment is beautiful, but for me as a single, it is about 100€ over my limit (and I'm looking to lower that limit on future visits.. ).

Thanks so much for posting!

s

You can't beat those winter flight deals. My brother and his wife got a good deal for January. They live so close to Montreal they are flying from there. Apartment in the 3rd. Yes, it is registered. I looked after they booked. They are flying in on a Saturday so taking a cab in case there are any problems. Versailles is closed today due to protest.

TPAYT, I told them about the restaurant you recommended, we ate in that area one night due to hunger and being wet and cold. It was so good and not expensive. Very old school so enjoyed it. I would not hesitate to go again in winter. We went in Feb and it was cold but Dec was just rainy but never a day under 50. I never took out my goose down jacket.

Collected DS from the airport this morning (he flew home from the U.S.); tomorrow we depart for Paris for Christmas! We, too, are renting an apartment through ParisPerfect, though ours is not as gorgeous as yours (last minute beggars can not be choosers). Still, the excitement! :)

007......I’m with you about having a bakery close by. We usually rent on Ile St. Louis with several choices. Sadly it’s a hike over the bridge to the left bank for the closest bakery. I think that’s why they have fresh bread delivered in the lobby every morning.

goddess.....no view of the Eiffel here. You’ll have to rent one of their apts. in the 7th for that.


Friday......beautiful day, cool with blue skies. We were off to Musee D’Orsay. Always worth a stop, the art is recognizable, the building a work of art in itself. The crowds were much smaller than other times of the year so we were able to move through very easily.

Then it was on to the Xmas market in The Tuileries. The decorated booths made me smile. The usual gifts you would expect, lots of rides for the kids, and the food....OMG, the smells wafting through the market drew us to the food end. Nothing like tartiflette on a cold winters day. We first had it on a trip in the Dordogne and it became a favorite. Yes, it’s just scalloped potatoes, ham, onions, & cheese, but some how it’s better in France than anything I ever make at home. The mulled wine was tempting but a little too early in the day for me. Coffee, a few sweets, we were well satisfied.
It wasn’t too crowded at all. Maybe people were leery of going because of the threat of protestors.
All of the vendors were working hard to sell their goods. I’m sure their sales were way down for the entire length of the market because of that. We were there on Fri. I don’t know how Sat. (the day of protesting) went along, or if they even closed that day.

Friday evening we met some fellow Fodorites for dinner at Boucherie Rouliere in the 6th.
Sarastro, on Fodors, Rick & Angela, were a joy to dine with. Since they have lived in Paris for some time they gave us many tips to “the city of light.” Interesting conversation throughout the meal. We hope to get together again when we return to Paris. We all had starters, mine was tiny raviolis in a spinach cream sauce, delicious. Then we all had steak & potatoes, finished with profiteroles. Of course It’s Paris, we have to get our profiterole fix at some point in our trip. Wine, coffee, a good time was had by all. About 130 Euros per couple.

Sounds spectacular. I'll bet the clock view in the Orsay is magnificent in the winter on a cold, clear day. And the market looks fun -- good for you for going! :)

The tartiflette was my favorite Christmas market food. I watched them mixing it all from big sealed plastic bags but they cooked the bacon separately and then added to the potato mixture topping with cheese. I tried the raclette sandwich but not enough cheese was put on the bread and it was just ok. Hope you all have a wonderful day. Hearing the yellow vest guys are by Sacre Couer today.

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ROFL! We were at the Tuileries Christmas Market, too. We passed the Vin Chaud stand where your photo was taken, but did not imbibe because I hate gluwein. Thin

Small world!

Wonderful, TPAYT! The apartment is beautiful. I googled gluwein--is it like a heated sangria in a way. More TR soon, please!

What's funny about tartiflette is that while it seems to be a grand old classic, it was actually invented in the 1980's by the reblochon cheese producers. Clearly they had a stroke of genius.

Yes, we have stunning views from the master bedroom and living room. The apt can accommodate six, but it's just DH and me, so it feels really spacious.

place Dauphine isn't that residential, it's on an island and not many people live there, mostly other things, like a park, some boat launch, etc.

I have never seen a registration number on ParisPerfect listings on their website, which I thought was illegal in itself (to not list it). I haven't examined them all, but I've never seen one, if it's there it sure is hidden and I know their apartments are generally rented all year, that's what they are, just vacation rentals.

However, for the place Dauphine ones, I believe their story is that they got a special exemption from the city as that is a historic property that was going to ruin, and they got an exemption due to their investment in renovating it. They did a video on that which is online somewhere. That certainly sounds possible to me and would make sense as a reason for exemption. I know that can't be true for most of theirs, though, probalby none others.

Since the city is aware of them, I don't know how they get away with illegally listing rental apts, unless I'm wrong that it is illegal even to have a website listing them without showing registration numbers.

Here's at least one PP apartment with a registration number.
https://www.parisperfect.com/apartme...s/bordeaux.php

Sat. we were to meet a friend of ours for lunch who lives in the 7th. She chose Le Grand Colbert in the 2nd. As we walked over it started to rain a bit so we walked under the covered walkway alongside of the Palais Royal garden. When we were crossing the last street before the restaurant we heard some drums. There seemed to be a heavy police presence. We looked to our left and saw a large group of yellow vests along with police. We then hurried across and into the restaurant before they arrived. Seated toward the back of the restaurant we didn’t hear any more commotion until much later.

A typical old world French Bistro, the room was magnificent. Several hours of chatting and dining went by so quickly. 2 onion soup, lamb chops, 2 fondant boeuf, wine, coffee, a chocolate dessert and a baba au rhum.....what was I thinking? It came with a full shot of rum which I poured over the cake. Wow, did that pack a punch! Lunch for 3 was 156 Euros.

As we were getting ready to leave some people came in and said to sit tight for awhile. The yellow vests were coming. There were some tense moments as they passed by and banged on the windows. The help said this was a peaceful group of protestors and not to worry but didn’t look all that sure about it. Everyone sort of moved toward the back away from the windows. After they were gone we left out the back and through the Passage Vivienne. Such elegant shops, it was fun to browse.

it was raining somewhat hard as we walked back to the apt. and it was already 18:00 so we decided to stay in that night. We had bought some things at the market so we had enough for a light dinner.

That was our only encounter with the protestors. Everywhere else we went you would not have known there was any trouble at all.

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Le Grand Colbert

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Passage Vivienne

Christina: Ours also has a registration number. It's easy to find. Your "never" is outdated.

It was good for a cold wet day. I am going to try and make it for Christmas with my ham.

Glad to hear it's a registered apartment. I always thought the Paris Perfect hosts had a lot of class. The price is way over our budget (we are renting an apartment in Essaouira for 5 weeks in February/March for 400 euros), but kudos to folks who can spend that kind of money on a vacation. As long as they love it, it's great. We're just peasants.

Tartiflette is peasant food, speaking of peasants. It's a heavy mixture of ham and reblochon and onions and potatoes. Nice on a cold night.

Tartiflette is just disguising itself as peasant food. It is pure bobo food.

Well, yes, you could easily call it bobo food in winter in these parts, but there aren't any bobos here. It's not Paris. We're stranded, kerouac - we don't have anything bobo;)

I guess beef burgundy is peasant food also but still love eating it. They were smoking salmon at some of the Christmas stalls. The smell was wonderful.

I absolutely love boeuf bourgondie!