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In Philly, we say "bougie" not "bobo".
Thin |
Bourguignon is real peasant food because you are supposed to use the very cheapest and toughest pieces of beef and simmer them until they surrender.
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Yes, it's always the toughest cows in the pasture - you get to know them when they're in the fields in the summer because they have an insouciant air and all the other cows leave them alone - and when you cook them it takes them hours, sometimes days, to get chewable.
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I am going to make Ina Garten's recipe for it out of Barefoot in Paris. Julia's recipe is so complicated. I also had the Flemish stew in Lille. That was excellent.
Winter comfort food. |
Actually, another mistake that a lot of people make with boeuf bourguignon, is to use "good" red wine. There is no such thing as good red wine when you are simmering something for 3 or 4 hours. Cheap chunks of beef, cheap wine. That's the whole point of the dish. And you don't have to use burgundy -- Spanish merlot or even Algerian Sidi Brahim will elicit spectacular results.
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The whole base for boeuf bourgignon is a tough old piece of beef and some bad wine. It's been glorified into something ridiculously Frenchified. It's peasant food. Tastes great,, though.
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Loving this TPAYT - please keep going! I will probably not be back in Paris until April, so living vicariously here!
Love cooking peasant food, and boeuf bourgignon is one of my strengths. In Madrid last month, I discovered 'Asturian bean and pork stew' and cooked it when I came home. Delicious! Regards … Ger |
Sigh.... looks beautiful! What a wonderful way to spend a week in winter!
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Love this trip reporr!
Please keep going! One question, did you have reservations for your lunches? I'm learning for paris on Saturday the 29th, and so far my sister and I only have reservations for new year's eve.
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Sunday.....a day to wander & shop. First we were off to a shop I had seen on Rue Buci, Nina Kendosa. They had some soft sweaters at reasonable prices. 3 scarves, a sweater, a shirt all very nice.
Next was the flower & bird market on Ile de Cite. So pretty, flocked Xmas trees next to fresh tulips and other colorful flowers, birds chirping in their cages. A few photos and small Xmas items didn’t dent the budget at all. A walk down Ile St. Louis and a stop at Diwaki scarf shop. In the past we bought many scarves here. This time they were all too sparkled or shiny, or thin. On to 78ISL. 4 scarves....yea! We always bring home scarves for gifts. They are easy to pack and always appreciated. This shop had some beauties, also sweaters, handbags, etc. Having rented apts. many times on the isle we knew it would be worth a stop at some of our favorite shops. Across the river to the right bank, down Rue de Rivoli for a few more stops. Time for a bite to eat, something easy, not fancy. You can’t get “less fancy” than a burger & fries at The Meating Corner at 12 Rue des Lombards. Yes, I know it’s Paris with so many wonderful food choices BUT these burgers & fries are sooooo good and we had more shopping to do so wanted something quick. The pedestrian streets around this area are full of restaurants to try. Les Halles was our next stop. We hadn’t been here in a few years. It was a mess when they were redoing it. Now it’s beautiful and has stores galore. I won’t go into detail but fun place to shop. Time for a rest before dinner. If it’s Sunday, it must be Marco Polo at 8 Rue de Condé in the 6th. So many Paris visits, so many dinners at Marco Polo. In recent years it’s always on a Sunday night because that’s the night Mr. Albano is there to greet you. He always welcomes “Mr. Payton from Chicago” with open arms. Now I’m sure he really doesn’t remember us as we are only there once or twice a year, but it’s fun to pretend we are regular customers. The decor of Marco Polo is quite charming and the food delicious. Tomato mozzarella salad, meat pasta and truffle pasta, wine, cappuccino, and dessert 97 Euros. After dinner we walked past Notre Dame for some photos of the lit up Xmas tree and boats on the river. Flwrhead.....we did have reservations for a few dinners and only the lunch at Le Grand Colbert. i don’t think they were needed for most places. I don’t know if it was the protests going on or just less tourists in winter. I guess it depends where you want to dine. If a particular place is in mind I think I would reserve. La Jacobine is always busy, lunch & dinner. We just lucked out getting in there. In years past we tried without a reservation but couldn’ t get in but that was in either June or Sept. One more day..... |
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Love your photos! Thank you.
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The decorations at the Forum des Halles were much better this year than in the previous two years.
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Ooops! Typo....of course it’s Dawali with an L not a K
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Are you sure it's not Diwali? :-)
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Our last day, blue skies, moderate temperatures, more shopping. We took the Metro to Galeries Lafayette. When getting on the Metro we are always a bit surprised by the politeness of teens who will get up and offer us their seat. Sadly, this is not the usual actions of teens in the US.
Galeries was at its Christmas best. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d0b83dd9.jpeg |
to Be continued......
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Gorgeous photos, TPAYT! Thanks for posting.
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Looks like a great trip TPAYT. We spent a long weekend in Charleston before Christmas, so no Paris this year! We haven't stayed in the new Place Dauphine apartments but they do look amazing. We have always had good experiences with Paris Perfect.
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Browsing Galeries Layfette is always fun. Mostly above our budget, we did manage a scarf for my husband, coffee & pastry, and some boxes of candy from Hermès. We were shopping for two teens so designers were not in the picture.
Back to Rue de Rivoli for a few things and home to pack. We were leaving early in the morning. We wanted to have an easy dinner so walked over to Les Deux Palais across from St. Chapelle. We had lunch there in June with our granddaughter and it was very good so it was worth another try. More comfort food.....onion soup, steak frittes, and apple tart with ice cream. Wine and coffee. 105 Euros. Not a memorable meal for our last night but it worked. All in all this was one of our best trips to Paris. Less tourists, no need to revisit all the monuments, cold weather so jeans & sweaters worked, and of course that fantastic apt. Time to think about our travels in 2019. |
What a lovely trip! I am yearning to return to Paris.
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While the Galeries Lafayette Christmas tree is always impressive, this year it had crummy window displays (in my opinion). There are still a few days left to see the windows at Printemps.
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Thanks for another great trip report, TPAYT. I am still hoping to get to Paris at Christmas one of these days, and your pictures just urge me to think about finally making some plans to do so.
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Wonderful trip! I love Paris in the winter esp at the Holidays. Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks for the great report! Paris at Christmas is so magical.
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sounds good! more please!
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also agree on galeries lafayette windows @kerouac ! i did not in fact "lecher les vitrines!"
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Printemps had great window displays. The French cows were my favourite.
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We think the Place Vendome is actually the prettiest of the places decorated for Christmas. And parts of the Marais. The never-ending mobs of people around and in GL and Au Printemps spoiled it for us. Oh, and inside the George V. We went there for the Christmas tea and the beautiful setting combined with their holiday decorations made the place just stunning.
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Wow, what a great trip and a terrific trip report. I loved all the pictures - everything looks so festive and the apartment is wonderful! Thanks for letting us experience Christmas in Paris through you!
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I’ve enjoyed following along with you, thanks for the ride.
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My first visit to Paris was at Christmas time many years ago, but it's still etched in my memory. Your report makes me want to see it all again, at least once more.
Thank you! |
What a fabulous report, with incredible pics! Thanks for sharing your trip with us!
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What a wonderful trip report! What gorgeous pictures!
I adored Paris at Christmas, the year I "escaped Christmas". I lost both parents in five months and didn't want to be home. I dis-invited the friend who wanted to go, because I had no idea what kind of mood I would be in. If anyone is considering going solo to Paris for Christmas, GO! It is truly magical. Going to be back for a few days in April. I'm going to try some of your restaurant recommendations. Many thanks! |
Thanks TPAYT, this has been a terrific report, on the ground following you!
My next long weekend in Paris is planned for April - your report may have moved that date up :) Best … Ger |
So enjoyed reading this and the photos are great. Thank you!
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