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-   -   Our month in Switzerland (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/our-month-in-switzerland-1668229/)

Ingo Jul 6th, 2019 11:43 PM

So beautiful again! Did you know one of the Heidi movies was filmed (partially) in Grevasalvas?

Adelaidean Jul 7th, 2019 08:39 AM

Day 28: Sils Maria

The forecast was for a sunny day, but we did have a mixed bag of sun, cloudy skies (quite moody) and then a bitterly cold, wet and windy turn. Then lovely sunshine again...

Took a one way horse drawn carriage to Fex Valley, to the end stop at the Hotel Fex. We used the Omnibus which has a set timetable and fare was 20 CHF each.
It’s a gentle, peaceful, slow ride through this gorgeous valley, passing farms, a few hamlets, and meadows, river, mountains and glacier ahead.

There are many options for walking and biking, ‘Engadiner’ had suggested the nearby Alp Muot Selvas for lunch, which we will do one day...but this time, we walked the road back (one uphill trail we tried was a bit rough on the knees).

So beautiful.
The clouds leave an ever changing pattern of light on the hills, and it just feels serene. We enjoyed our picnic lunch on a bench in the sun.

We passed through the gorge back to Sils Maria just as the rain came down.






Adelaidean Jul 7th, 2019 08:40 AM

Yes, Ingo, I read that. Loved that walk!

Adelaidean Jul 7th, 2019 08:51 AM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69aad2727.jpeg
A car free valley
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2879048b0.jpeg
Platte
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...825f579b0.jpeg
Frescoes in the tiny church
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba2277041.jpeg
Church in Crasta
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d301f3838.jpeg
Towards the glacier
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f93657a41.jpeg
Car free valley
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c756bc5b.jpeg
It’s a dog’s life
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1dd9f8bbb.jpeg
Easy strolling
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4003508c.jpeg
Dramatic cliffs
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8dd974af.jpeg
So beautiful
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9100c5c46.jpeg
Fex Valley
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa65ace1c.jpeg
Fex Valley
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6a05e59f.jpeg
Tiny looking hotel

Ingo Jul 7th, 2019 12:25 PM

One of my favourite places in the world. Btw, the hiking trail from the Furtschellas cable car top station to Hotel Fex goes via that "dramatic cliff" (named "Marmore" - a fantastic viewpoint) on two of your pictures. Looks challenging, but is really easy. We saw and heard marmots each time we hiked that trail.

Hambagahle Jul 7th, 2019 11:04 PM

I love the Val Fex. So incredibly peaceful!! Glad you went there...and I am jealous. We won't be in Sils this summer.

Sberg Jul 8th, 2019 04:10 AM

Your pictures are gorgeous! I am going to have to map out where you have been so that I can plan my trip. You have totally convinced me to go. Thank you and I love your pictures!

Adelaidean Jul 8th, 2019 04:55 AM

Forgot to add photos of Sils Maria! This is a small village, tucked between 2 lakes, off the main road between St Moritz and Maloja, so is quiet.
Well served by bus. Has a few restaurants and a Volg grocery store, hotels and apartments, busy with hikers and bikers in summer. Lots of cablecars and hiking trails.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...076d62068.jpeg
Main Street, Sils Maria
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9339e60a4.jpeg
Main Street, Sils Maria
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6642aee2.jpeg
My favourite building, the TI is in here
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b226c30c.jpeg
Surrounded by mountains
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0830e3966.jpeg
Main Street, Sils Maria
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3037d6b61.jpeg
Sils Baselgia
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09030832c.jpeg
Main Street, Sils Maria
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e8942ccd.jpeg
Our apartment in building on left, on right is Nietzsche house
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5765e4e9d.jpeg
Nietzsche house
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d0b57777.jpeg
The meadows between Sils Maria and Sils Baselgia
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82f87a68e.jpeg
Surrounded by mountains
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11d28dedc.jpeg
River in Sils
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4667b8e74.jpeg
Sils Maria
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8c1aa5d7.jpeg
Road to Sils Maria
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fb87f978.jpeg
Waldhaus hotel, Sils Maria

Adelaidean Jul 8th, 2019 04:59 AM

Ingo, we nearly did that walk :)
Hambagahle, I guess a virtual trip to Sils will have to do for you then. Lake Thun is lovely, though, and we passed through Gunten, it does look very pretty. Enjoy that trip.
Sberg, hope you get to Switzerland, too.

Ingo Jul 8th, 2019 09:15 AM

Adelaidean, if you could do me a favour, please? There was an apartment block built across the street from Hotel Edelweiss, where you stay. I haven't seen it (yet) but am afraid it might have been built on the grounds of the small garden right by the river that belongs to Hotel Edelweiss. Could you maybe take a photo of the situation and post it? I would owe you a glass of Bündner Pinot Noir ;-)

Adelaidean Jul 8th, 2019 09:51 AM

Ingo, apologies, am now in Zurich...I don’t think I have any photos in that direction, but I did walk across the little bridge past that apartment block yesterday.

Adelaidean Jul 8th, 2019 10:03 AM

Day 29: Sils Maria to Zürich

CHF 34 each (Supersaver Ticket)

Our bus today was 10 minutes late, we only just made the St Moritz train.

Had originally considered stopping in Rapperswil for a wander on the way, but after a month, we were ready to just simplify things and get to Zürich. Happy to wander around the old part of town anyway.

Such a contrast, of course - seemed so noisy and busy. And the designer stores, kind of fascinating, after Sils with its sports stores and local produce (eg cheeses).

We booked the Hotel St Josef in Zürich again, like the location, the breakfast, the rooms. And can get dinner on site.

We have a 12 hour flight ahead, then an 18 hour layover in Singapore, then a 7 hour flight (overnight flight, so no sleep). This is the worst part. A few random shots of Zürich...

Adelaidean Jul 8th, 2019 10:10 AM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df845e6e7.jpeg
Upmarket shopping
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...292b8e1bf.jpeg
Old town
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b6b0d222.jpeg
Nice alleys
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c73942d6e.jpeg
Neumarkt
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cff79aff.jpeg
Nice alleys
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...393f094fa.jpeg
Colourful and creative stores
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b359b46e5.jpeg
Gracious architecture
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0e73f7d1.jpeg
Impressive storage
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80a3a3dff.jpeg
Old town
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f349381f.jpeg
Fancy cars outside, fancy people inside
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea29178d8.jpeg
Shopfronts

Adelaidean Jul 8th, 2019 10:15 AM

This was a very relaxing holiday. No frenetic schedules or a fear of ‘missing anything’. Had a general idea of what we wanted to do, and let the weather and our mood dictate how that flowed. One thing we agreed we would do differently: no 2 night stays. We prefer to ‘settle in’ to a location, find a favourite cafe, get familiar with transport. So, likely just pick 5-7 night stays next time.

Thanks again to all who helped me refine my itinerary, the generosity of strangers is fantastic. Having said that, some of you have also messaged me with even more suggestions, and I feel like I’ve made friends. So grateful :)

Melnq8 Jul 8th, 2019 11:34 AM

It's over? Ah man....

Ingo Jul 8th, 2019 12:06 PM

I cannot believe that month is already over! I like your travel style, just like my own. Have a safe trip home!

No problem about the situation in Sils. I guess I'll have to go and see myself ;-)

gooster Jul 8th, 2019 04:24 PM

Thanks so much for the great "live" report and wonderful pictures. It brought back such fond memories of my time living in Suisse Romande, travelling about, and being pushed by seniors as they raced up the hiking trails.

Hambagahle Jul 8th, 2019 11:29 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 16949808)
Ingo, we nearly did that walk :)
Hambagahle, I guess a virtual trip to Sils will have to do for you then. Lake Thun is lovely, though, and we passed through Gunten, it does look very pretty. Enjoy that trip.
Sberg, hope you get to Switzerland, too.

As you know we can't go far from home this summer so Gunten it will be but your photos really made me yearn for Sils Maria. That little river is extremely noisy at night - from my hotel room in the morning I am woken by the clip clopping of horses hooves (on their way to the Val Fex) and that river!! Your apartment was in a great location too. Hope you plan to come back!

Hambagahle Jul 8th, 2019 11:33 PM


Originally Posted by Ingo (Post 16949972)
Adelaidean, if you could do me a favour, please? There was an apartment block built across the street from Hotel Edelweiss, where you stay. I haven't seen it (yet) but am afraid it might have been built on the grounds of the small garden right by the river that belongs to Hotel Edelweiss. Could you maybe take a photo of the situation and post it? I would owe you a glass of Bündner Pinot Noir ;-)

There is no room for a building on the Edelweiss side of the river but there IS a relatively new - last couple of years I think - apartment house on the opposite side. Perhaps this is what you meant? the building is on the via Fedacla in the old part of the village and it blends in quite well.

Ingo Jul 9th, 2019 09:03 AM

Hambagahle, thank you for this info. Yes, I know there is very little room on the Edelweiss side of the river, just for their small garden, and yet, you never know ... I am happy to know it still exists and the apartment building is on the other side of the river. Thanks again!


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