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-   -   Our month in Switzerland (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/our-month-in-switzerland-1668229/)

Hambagahle Jul 4th, 2019 01:34 AM

LOVE the photos - both of "my" Sils and Vicosoprano. Thank goodness when we drive down the Bregaglia the road by-passes those villages. And I am also happy to have the bus driver in charge when we go to Soglio. Aaaah! Gerstensuppe at Grond! About the best I have ever had. Their pizzoccheri is also superb if that temps you.

Adelaidean Jul 4th, 2019 08:53 AM

Hambagahle, Grond makes a great gesternsuppe! Not creamy, like the one in Thusis.

Vicky, I hope you get to Switzerland.

Kay, yes, our roads are hardly challenging compared to the Swiss roads.

Day 25: Sils Maria

Today we took the Bernina regional train (not Express) from St Moritz. It’s a short bus ride to St Moritz from Sils Maria, and an easy transfer. Note: Worth considering upgrade to 1st class if you are travelling at a busy time (so full carriages) - most hikers alight at Morteratsch or Alp Grüm, so that starts to empty out, plus it is more popular earlier and later in day ( so our return had completely empty carriages).

Anyway, this is one of the world’s most scenic train journeys. We missed it on our 2017 Switzerland trip, as there had been an accident that damaged the track.

Opted to go as far as Miralago, and return (CHF 33.60 return each).

It’s a 2 hour journey, and absolutely stunning, with mountains and forests, glaciers, the barren landscape of Ospizio Bernina and the greenish tinge of Lago Bianco, Alp Grüm, and the descent into Poschiavo, followed by the turquoise Lake Poschiavo.




Having trouble posting tonight, photos not loading, will try separate posts, I see auto save not functioning...


Adelaidean Jul 4th, 2019 09:01 AM

I give up...

they’re on Flickr album if interested

https://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]

nonconformist2 Jul 4th, 2019 11:28 AM

Such glorious scenery!

You seem to be having a great trip.

Ingo Jul 4th, 2019 11:53 AM

Fantastic pictures again, Adelaidean! I love the Bernina train route - yep, most scenic! You did not miss much, only the circular viaduct near Brusio.

Jessbrown Jul 4th, 2019 12:30 PM

I have to say, this report (and comments) has proved to be enlightening. I haven't been to Switzerland and I never knew it had so much culture and character, I usually just think a quick 3 day trip would be enough to explore the country (my ignorance though lol), but with this I know that going with 3 days is definitely off the table and switzerland just made it into my nearest future. Thanks for sharing your experience so thoroughly, every minute spent reading it was totally worth it. Hopefully after my trip I can share my experience as well and change someone else's view like you did me. GRACIAS!

Hambagahle Jul 4th, 2019 11:10 PM


Originally Posted by Jessbrown (Post 16947825)
I have to say, this report (and comments) has proved to be enlightening. I haven't been to Switzerland and I never knew it had so much culture and character, I usually just think a quick 3 day trip would be enough to explore the country (my ignorance though lol), but with this I know that going with 3 days is definitely off the table and switzerland just made it into my nearest future. Thanks for sharing your experience so thoroughly, every minute spent reading it was totally worth it. Hopefully after my trip I can share my experience as well and change someone else's view like you did me. GRACIAS!

Jessbrown - Switzerland is one of the most culturally diverse countries in Europe. In a small area we have FOUR national languages, four distinct cultural regions with reflections of those in our architecture, cuisine etc. In under an hour from where I live in the French speaking Suisse Romande I can be either in an Italian speaking area or a German one. We have a very long history and because of our neutrality our cities were not damaged in the two world wars. If you like history, or art, or nature - this is the place to come. IF you can travel for 2 weeks you can see quite a bit. Adelaidean has been here before and she planned her current trip based on her previous experience. She is lucky she has a month here. (To me a lifetime is not enough though!!)

Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 10:26 AM


Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 10:30 AM

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...370bcd58e.jpeg
Lago Bianco

Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 10:33 AM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f80e4db5a.jpeg
Into Poschiavo valley
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...881ff01c8.jpeg
Glacier

Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 10:37 AM


Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 10:43 AM

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1076115d8.jpeg
Bernina train route
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cee9ae4a.jpeg
Bernina train route

Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 10:52 AM

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0263ba583.jpeg
Corvatschbahn to Murtel, view over valley and lake
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f1a9456e.jpeg
At Murtel cablecar station
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11e1d4a58.jpeg
At Fuorcla Surlej
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...182e36774.jpeg
At Fuorcla Surlej
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5368607e6.jpeg
The walking trail
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90fd31fd3.jpeg
The peaks
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62fe7a787.jpeg
Fuorcla Surlej
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dd487bba.jpeg
Fuorcla Surlej
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8137f85b.jpeg
The hut on the ridge
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d5b41c10.jpeg
Roseg valley
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e7a9291b.jpeg
Roseg valley

Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 11:01 AM

Day 26: Sils Maria

Photo uploading has been problematic, so a few above, can’t seem to insert them into text.

Anyway, beautiful sunshine again. 19 C day. Wunderbar!

A 15 minute bus ride to Corvatschbahn (beautiful in itself, along the lake) then a short ride to Murtel station (CHF 21.50 each return with half fare card).

And a fabulous easy walk to Fuorcla Surlej with absolutely stupendous views to peaks, glaciers and down the Roseg Valley. Some snow still on the trail, so a bit slippery, but lots of elderly hikers striding along.
Just so incredible. We missed this last time because of an overnight snowfall and the trail was closed. So happy to experience this today.

Other hikers were continuing on to the Roseg valley or Coaz Hutte. We are not hikers, so a hearty lunch there of soup and bread, before returning the same way. It is about an hour of slowish walking each way.





Adelaidean Jul 5th, 2019 11:07 AM

Jessbrown, I had 18 days in Switzerland for my last trip (2017) and only 5 days on my very first.

There really is is so much to experience here, I just had to make adjustments for this longer trip, as it really is very expensive. So, the half fare card, using apartments and doing our own meals, has helped.
And lots of research! So many people here willing to help. :)

Melnq8 Jul 5th, 2019 12:55 PM

Fabulous photos Adelaidean! So glad the weather has cooled a bit for you.

Ingo Jul 6th, 2019 12:04 AM

Very glad you made it to Fuorcla Surlej this time! Brilliant photos again. That hike to Coaz hut and then down the whole Roseg valley to Pontresina is really long. But wonderful. And the ambience at the hut is so different, truly filled with mountaineering spirit. There are shortcuts to the Roseg valley, though. Bet you could have done the shortest, direct hike - as a reward the famous dessert buffet at Hotel Roseggletscher wating ;-)

Adelaidean Jul 6th, 2019 09:19 AM

Day 27:

Today we took the path from Sils Baselgia to Maloja, via Grevasalvas. It's pleasantly shaded for the first part, and gently uphill. Lovely views down over the Silsersee, the mountains, and Isola. Then a more steeply uphill section, above the tree line, so stunning, with the massive mountains above.
Honestly, the photos don’t do it justice.

We had some nusstorte in the company of some cows near Grevasalvas, then a wander past this farming hamlet, on to Blaunca, and eventually to the lookout over Maloja.

A steep descent into Maloja, on a fairly uneven, rocky trail, then headed to the Schweizerhaus for our Rösti and beer.

This is described as a 2-3 hour walk. We took 4 hours (I take lots of photos, we chatted awhile to a couple from Australia who have 3 months in Sils Maria and do the strenuous hikes, we sat and ate...)

Took the bus home.

Adelaidean Jul 6th, 2019 09:26 AM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56490e413.jpeg
Near Grevasalvas
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dda5a067.jpeg
Silsersee
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16d611b00.jpeg
Walking towards Maloja
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23e99bb65.jpeg
Blaunca
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f512418e.jpeg
Grevasalvas
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f22e19b7f.jpeg
Mountain hamlets
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79c9d6d1f.jpeg
Lunching with the cows
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...723f12897.jpeg
Beautiful
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1ed16c16.jpeg
Grevasalvas
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ea5d117c.jpeg
Grevasalvas
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88cb37cef.jpeg
Hillside flowers
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ba521282.jpeg
Forest path

swandav2000 Jul 6th, 2019 09:34 PM

Ooh such wonderful photos!!

And .. your pictures from the BE route were so much better than mine...even beyond blaming the rain, lol

s


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