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Still hot.
Adelaidean - you once asked why we don't visit Switzerland in the summer. This would be one of the main reasons! |
Stunning photos. Thank you.
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Love this helpful report and and of course all your wonderful photos. Thank you so much.
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Ha, Mel, slept with wet face washers on us overnight. It sure isn’t comfortable. Thanks for commenting, nice to know someone is reading :) |
Great photos but.... isn’t there a pool somewhere near you where you could exchange hiking for swimming in cool water? Switzerland has tons of outdoor pools with amazing views. If you swam during the last hours before closing you would be refreshed and probably sleep better...but maybe the storms predicted for the next couple of days will cool things off...hope your hot hotels at least gave you a fan! |
That heatwave is really a pain. Very brave of you that you did that hike! Yep, I guess spending some time in a pool would be a good idea ;-) Very beautiful pictures again, Adelaidean! I keep my fingers crossed it gets a bit cooler.
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You should be feeling cooler today, Adelaidean -- at least here a mammoth storm came through last night and the temperatures plunged! It was only 17° this morning as opposed to 24° the day before. Hope that this is also the case in Thusis!
Your photos of the Viamala gorge are stunning. Next time I drive home from Sils I will stop there for a walk... I think you should write a travel guide to hiking in the Graubunden! |
Just arrived to a thunderstorm in Chiavenna. Lovely to travel via Sils Maria again...Hambaghale I noticed the bus stop is partly finished, framework shelter up, but no roofing yet. Off to find something to eat. Our train was 20 mins late, so no time to pick up sandwich in St Moritz. |
Day 22: Thusis to Chiavenna Forgot to mention our Napoli pizzeria (Boccalino’s) was a great place for pizza last night. And close to our hotel. I tried artichoke on my salami and olive pizza for the first time, really nice addition. (Forecast for 34 C in Chiavenna today, while Thusis is starting to cool off.) As mentioned before, my previous plan had us taking the bus to Chiavenna via the Splügen pass, but a recent landslide has not yet been cleared. So, back on the same route we came, which is a stunning train ride anyway. So, the plan was Thusis to St Moritz, with 15 mins between train and bus so enough time to get some picnic lunch in St Moritz. And then, a bus ride from St Moritz to Maloja and down the Maloja pass to Chiavenna. We have done this route several times, spectacular scenery and charming villages. Oh well, the best laid plans….the train was running late and therefore having to wait for oncoming trains to pass through tunnels (lots of tunnels on this line) compounding our delay. So, instead of a 15 minute interval in St Moritz between train and bus - we arrived 20 minutes late, but our train conductor said the bus driver might wait, as it was only a 5 minute delay for him. And so it was, we were ready at the train door on arrival in St Moritz, bolted for the bus, and were on our way. Love this part of the world. Delightful drive again. Cool air coming through the roof vent, hooray. A few minutes walk from the train / bus interchange in Chiavenna is our bnb, “Centro Storico”, wonderful! https://www.bed-and-breakfast.it/mob...-storico/44961 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f270f44b5.jpeg Lounge https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1ca8ac52.jpeg View from breakfast area https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...166d19b4d.jpeg Breakfast balcony Absolutely gorgeous, great location in a charming street filled with gelaterias, restaurants, bars, in a historic building, and a delightful couple who own it. We managed with smiles and grazies. €75 per night! We found a cafe nearby that serves all day (we missed lunch) and had an excellent lasagna, tagliatelle, Greek salad, aperol spritz, beer, 2 espressos (€34!). €8 for a main and €1 for an espresso and €4 aperol spritz….we had reverse sticker shock. Had a gentle walk after, a very compact, charming old town. Nestled in a lush valley, and housing built right to river edge. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38c66c38a.jpeg Walking in the rain https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4fe59ae6b.jpeg Housing right on river https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87ff0d487.jpeg Chiavenna housing on river https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb2d6a90e.jpeg Piazza Monday night and we went for an evening walk, great buzz with people strolling, eating gelato, walking dogs or children, kids on bikes, bars open, locals catching up. Love the relaxed atmosphere. We had a nice late dinner of spaghetti with zucchini and prawns, wine, espresso, really light and tasty. Light on the wallet, too…. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33c2134f0.jpeg Evening streets https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c654f47e3.jpeg Evening streets https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...033f4e24c.jpeg Lots of dog walkers https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09d012582.jpeg Charming piazzas Now, of course, the downside of all that ‘vibe’ is having to shut the window at 11pm because the street life doesn’t seem to have a home to go to. Don’t people work?? |
Day 23: Chiavenna Humid and over 30C today. Thunder, but no rain to cool things off. Looking forward to the cool Sils Maria tomorrow. A pleasant slow day, while we visited the Church of San Lorenzo and the Park Paradiso, a lot more to experience here, such as the Trail Marmitte dei Giganti (ancient glaciers/ potholes/ formed by movement and melting of ice), crotti cold stores (several crotti restaurants) , - caves created from ancient landslides and used to store cheese and cured meat and wine, the 1500's estate Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, tour the old flour mill (the Mulino di Bottinera). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68d375087.jpeg Church of San Lorenzo https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3336f5eef.jpeg Church of San Lorenzo https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98b1706ef.jpeg Church of San Lorenzo But we had no agenda, just wandering where it was cool, and the path between the huge rock wall and houses was just that. Fascinating how the housing was built around and into existing rock. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e2cfdcd1.jpeg Built right up to rock https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93284bccb.jpeg Houses built into cliffside https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c812a34a.jpeg Built up to rock face Climbed up to a lookout over the town. Eating gelati. Buying fruit. Observing locals chatting in the street - there must be real social benefits from a lifestyle where one doesn’t feel isolated at home, but can chat as walking the dog or grandchildren, there’s always a conversation happening in the little stores, older men solving world problems at the street bars, kids racing their bikes. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0eb50e54c.jpeg Walk to lookout https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e6d7b0c8.jpeg Walk to lookout https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6372eee1d.jpeg Mountains surrounding Chiavenna https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f292efce.jpeg Lookout over Chiavenna https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff4bb3dde.jpeg Villages in surrounding hillside, steeply terraced An afternoon rest, and a pre dinner drink in the square watching the locals come together. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e22c22d0b.jpeg Locals catching up https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30c3f5b1d.jpeg Palazzo Salis https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4bc6b0123.jpeg Old town Trattoria del Mercato for dinner. Steak, potatoes, salad, wine, espresso, grappa, dessert, excellent meal €92. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cd12c268.jpeg Dinner https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bd6bb856.jpeg Dinner Still a lot of action outside when we were in our room at 10.00pm. The bar and gelateria down below quite bustling. |
Excellent pictures as always. I never managed to stay in Chiavenna, only did (a couple of) day trips from the Engadin. That trattoria looks familiar, though - maybe I had lunch there once? Does it have a terrace that sort of 'hangs' over the river? Anyway, the dinner looks yummy!
Sils will be *much* cooler! |
Yes, Ingo, we sat out on that balcony. It does hang over the river. It’s 12.45 am on a Tuesday night, and cannot believe the noise outside. I guess I am not cut out for city living. Finally some slightly cooler breeze, but, can’t open the window because of a couple of groups of people sitting outside, (very loudly) talking and laughing, while all around are residential flats with people presumably trying to sleep? Same last night. Very much looking forward to getting to a cooler and quieter Sils Maria. |
Hi again!
Guess it's too late now....but I'll suggest you use ear plugs for sleeping (can buy in any apotheke) and open the windows! I always travel with earplugs and am even considering buying noise-cancelling headphones or earplugs for travel. I simply cannot sleep with closed windows, especially in the summer. I've even had to use ear plugs a few times at my apartment in the summer.... Enjoy Sils! s |
Earplugs are a good idea - I use them even at home (husband snores!). In the country in Italy most people still take a siesta after lunch then go back to work around 16h. So they are "re-charged" for the evening and it is a late evening. Plus Italians are very sociable as you have found out. Things are quieter in winter but as soon as the temperatures permit everyone is out on the street in the evening. They have a name for it - "la passiagata". I also travel with blindfolds ever since we had a hotel in Vienna with the window right under a street lamp! If you want to get ear plugs in Chiavenna go to any "Farmacia".
I am really enjoying your thread AND the photos, Adelaidean! |
I'm also following along - your photos and activities have inspired me to add Switzerland to my list!
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Day 24: Chiavenna to Sils Maria Well, after a hot, noisy night (our friends on the street packed up at about 3am) we got to sleep. Nice breakfast on our balcony by our host. We are a few minutes from the bus / train interchange, and caught the number 4 which takes a little over an hour to Sils Maria. In hindsight, we think we’d have preferred to stay in Sils and day trip to Chiavenna, which is pretty compact and an easy bus ride. However, we are in Sils Maria again, delightful place. This time I have booked a studio which is in the Hotel Edelweiss building, but not one of the ones owned by them. Chesa Alvatern 5, a studio apartment, booked on e domizil https://www.e-domizil.com/vacation-h...e-switzerland/ €534 for 5 nights. Interhome in St Moritz manage the property and we rang asking for key pick up at the apartment rather than their office, fortunately they were very obliging. Left keys in a key safe and instructions for departure. Very happy with the studio, enough space to spread out and a compact kitchen. We lunched at Grond, with gesternsuppe and a spinach ravioli, excellent; then shopped at the little Volg store, good enough range for holiday makers. Enjoying the cool air and the serenity… a nice short walk behind the village, and then wine on our patio. Lovely. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87d5ac888.jpeg Serenity, beauty, fresh air https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf5977092.jpeg This is why we return https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a606098dc.jpeg Forest road https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb64c6d9b.jpeg Flowers |
I am green of envy. And glad you finally made it to Sils :-)
Did I mention I stayed for two weeks in Hotel Edelweiss in 2008? Trip report is here, if anyone is interested. |
Ingo, great that you added your report link, I read it several times over the last few years, but sometimes reports are hard to find. I love those little towns in the Val Bregaglia, always a thrill when we bus through Vicosoprano and don’t even shave off any plaster of the buildings, incredible driving skills! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5f7df989.jpeg In the bus, passing homes in main street https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08d606190.jpeg Photo from bus, passing homes in street |
Perfect photos, Adelaidean! I never thought of taking photos at that moment, was too fascinated with the bus driver's skills. ;-)
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Really enjoying your report and photos Adelaidean, thanks for sharing :) The narrow roads that buses travel down in Europe can be mind-boggling, I guess especially to Australians where we are used to a lot more space. More than once in Europe I've shut my eyes, thinking nooooo.... the bus isn't going to make it....then OMG he did it! The drivers must have such good skills.
Kay |
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