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LOVE the photos - both of "my" Sils and Vicosoprano. Thank goodness when we drive down the Bregaglia the road by-passes those villages. And I am also happy to have the bus driver in charge when we go to Soglio. Aaaah! Gerstensuppe at Grond! About the best I have ever had. Their pizzoccheri is also superb if that temps you.
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Hambagahle, Grond makes a great gesternsuppe! Not creamy, like the one in Thusis. Vicky, I hope you get to Switzerland. Kay, yes, our roads are hardly challenging compared to the Swiss roads. Day 25: Sils Maria Today we took the Bernina regional train (not Express) from St Moritz. It’s a short bus ride to St Moritz from Sils Maria, and an easy transfer. Note: Worth considering upgrade to 1st class if you are travelling at a busy time (so full carriages) - most hikers alight at Morteratsch or Alp Grüm, so that starts to empty out, plus it is more popular earlier and later in day ( so our return had completely empty carriages). Anyway, this is one of the world’s most scenic train journeys. We missed it on our 2017 Switzerland trip, as there had been an accident that damaged the track. Opted to go as far as Miralago, and return (CHF 33.60 return each). It’s a 2 hour journey, and absolutely stunning, with mountains and forests, glaciers, the barren landscape of Ospizio Bernina and the greenish tinge of Lago Bianco, Alp Grüm, and the descent into Poschiavo, followed by the turquoise Lake Poschiavo. Having trouble posting tonight, photos not loading, will try separate posts, I see auto save not functioning... |
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Such glorious scenery!
You seem to be having a great trip. |
Fantastic pictures again, Adelaidean! I love the Bernina train route - yep, most scenic! You did not miss much, only the circular viaduct near Brusio.
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I have to say, this report (and comments) has proved to be enlightening. I haven't been to Switzerland and I never knew it had so much culture and character, I usually just think a quick 3 day trip would be enough to explore the country (my ignorance though lol), but with this I know that going with 3 days is definitely off the table and switzerland just made it into my nearest future. Thanks for sharing your experience so thoroughly, every minute spent reading it was totally worth it. Hopefully after my trip I can share my experience as well and change someone else's view like you did me. GRACIAS!
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Originally Posted by Jessbrown
(Post 16947825)
I have to say, this report (and comments) has proved to be enlightening. I haven't been to Switzerland and I never knew it had so much culture and character, I usually just think a quick 3 day trip would be enough to explore the country (my ignorance though lol), but with this I know that going with 3 days is definitely off the table and switzerland just made it into my nearest future. Thanks for sharing your experience so thoroughly, every minute spent reading it was totally worth it. Hopefully after my trip I can share my experience as well and change someone else's view like you did me. GRACIAS!
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Into Poschiavo valley https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...881ff01c8.jpeg Glacier |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e25d61d9.jpeg Miralago https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b0f3e43f.jpeg Poschiavo valley https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15ccd961d.jpeg Poschiavo valley https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2984b8145.jpeg Waterfalls and glaciers |
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Bernina train route https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cee9ae4a.jpeg Bernina train route |
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Corvatschbahn to Murtel, view over valley and lake https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f1a9456e.jpeg At Murtel cablecar station https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11e1d4a58.jpeg At Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...182e36774.jpeg At Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5368607e6.jpeg The walking trail https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90fd31fd3.jpeg The peaks https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62fe7a787.jpeg Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dd487bba.jpeg Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8137f85b.jpeg The hut on the ridge https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d5b41c10.jpeg Roseg valley https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e7a9291b.jpeg Roseg valley |
Day 26: Sils Maria Photo uploading has been problematic, so a few above, can’t seem to insert them into text. Anyway, beautiful sunshine again. 19 C day. Wunderbar! A 15 minute bus ride to Corvatschbahn (beautiful in itself, along the lake) then a short ride to Murtel station (CHF 21.50 each return with half fare card). And a fabulous easy walk to Fuorcla Surlej with absolutely stupendous views to peaks, glaciers and down the Roseg Valley. Some snow still on the trail, so a bit slippery, but lots of elderly hikers striding along. Just so incredible. We missed this last time because of an overnight snowfall and the trail was closed. So happy to experience this today. Other hikers were continuing on to the Roseg valley or Coaz Hutte. We are not hikers, so a hearty lunch there of soup and bread, before returning the same way. It is about an hour of slowish walking each way. |
Jessbrown, I had 18 days in Switzerland for my last trip (2017) and only 5 days on my very first. There really is is so much to experience here, I just had to make adjustments for this longer trip, as it really is very expensive. So, the half fare card, using apartments and doing our own meals, has helped. And lots of research! So many people here willing to help. :) |
Fabulous photos Adelaidean! So glad the weather has cooled a bit for you.
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Very glad you made it to Fuorcla Surlej this time! Brilliant photos again. That hike to Coaz hut and then down the whole Roseg valley to Pontresina is really long. But wonderful. And the ambience at the hut is so different, truly filled with mountaineering spirit. There are shortcuts to the Roseg valley, though. Bet you could have done the shortest, direct hike - as a reward the famous dessert buffet at Hotel Roseggletscher wating ;-)
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Day 27: Today we took the path from Sils Baselgia to Maloja, via Grevasalvas. It's pleasantly shaded for the first part, and gently uphill. Lovely views down over the Silsersee, the mountains, and Isola. Then a more steeply uphill section, above the tree line, so stunning, with the massive mountains above. Honestly, the photos don’t do it justice. We had some nusstorte in the company of some cows near Grevasalvas, then a wander past this farming hamlet, on to Blaunca, and eventually to the lookout over Maloja. A steep descent into Maloja, on a fairly uneven, rocky trail, then headed to the Schweizerhaus for our Rösti and beer. This is described as a 2-3 hour walk. We took 4 hours (I take lots of photos, we chatted awhile to a couple from Australia who have 3 months in Sils Maria and do the strenuous hikes, we sat and ate...) Took the bus home. |
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Near Grevasalvas https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dda5a067.jpeg Silsersee https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16d611b00.jpeg Walking towards Maloja https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23e99bb65.jpeg Blaunca https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f512418e.jpeg Grevasalvas https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f22e19b7f.jpeg Mountain hamlets https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79c9d6d1f.jpeg Lunching with the cows https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...723f12897.jpeg Beautiful https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1ed16c16.jpeg Grevasalvas https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ea5d117c.jpeg Grevasalvas https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88cb37cef.jpeg Hillside flowers https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ba521282.jpeg Forest path |
Ooh such wonderful photos!!
And .. your pictures from the BE route were so much better than mine...even beyond blaming the rain, lol s |
So beautiful again! Did you know one of the Heidi movies was filmed (partially) in Grevasalvas?
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Day 28: Sils Maria The forecast was for a sunny day, but we did have a mixed bag of sun, cloudy skies (quite moody) and then a bitterly cold, wet and windy turn. Then lovely sunshine again... Took a one way horse drawn carriage to Fex Valley, to the end stop at the Hotel Fex. We used the Omnibus which has a set timetable and fare was 20 CHF each. It’s a gentle, peaceful, slow ride through this gorgeous valley, passing farms, a few hamlets, and meadows, river, mountains and glacier ahead. There are many options for walking and biking, ‘Engadiner’ had suggested the nearby Alp Muot Selvas for lunch, which we will do one day...but this time, we walked the road back (one uphill trail we tried was a bit rough on the knees). So beautiful. The clouds leave an ever changing pattern of light on the hills, and it just feels serene. We enjoyed our picnic lunch on a bench in the sun. We passed through the gorge back to Sils Maria just as the rain came down. |
Yes, Ingo, I read that. Loved that walk! |
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A car free valley https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2879048b0.jpeg Platte https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...825f579b0.jpeg Frescoes in the tiny church https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba2277041.jpeg Church in Crasta https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d301f3838.jpeg Towards the glacier https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f93657a41.jpeg Car free valley https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c756bc5b.jpeg It’s a dog’s life https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1dd9f8bbb.jpeg Easy strolling https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4003508c.jpeg Dramatic cliffs https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8dd974af.jpeg So beautiful https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9100c5c46.jpeg Fex Valley https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa65ace1c.jpeg Fex Valley https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6a05e59f.jpeg Tiny looking hotel |
One of my favourite places in the world. Btw, the hiking trail from the Furtschellas cable car top station to Hotel Fex goes via that "dramatic cliff" (named "Marmore" - a fantastic viewpoint) on two of your pictures. Looks challenging, but is really easy. We saw and heard marmots each time we hiked that trail.
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I love the Val Fex. So incredibly peaceful!! Glad you went there...and I am jealous. We won't be in Sils this summer.
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Your pictures are gorgeous! I am going to have to map out where you have been so that I can plan my trip. You have totally convinced me to go. Thank you and I love your pictures!
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Ingo, we nearly did that walk :) Hambagahle, I guess a virtual trip to Sils will have to do for you then. Lake Thun is lovely, though, and we passed through Gunten, it does look very pretty. Enjoy that trip. Sberg, hope you get to Switzerland, too. |
Adelaidean, if you could do me a favour, please? There was an apartment block built across the street from Hotel Edelweiss, where you stay. I haven't seen it (yet) but am afraid it might have been built on the grounds of the small garden right by the river that belongs to Hotel Edelweiss. Could you maybe take a photo of the situation and post it? I would owe you a glass of Bündner Pinot Noir ;-)
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Ingo, apologies, am now in Zurich...I don’t think I have any photos in that direction, but I did walk across the little bridge past that apartment block yesterday. |
Day 29: Sils Maria to Zürich CHF 34 each (Supersaver Ticket) Our bus today was 10 minutes late, we only just made the St Moritz train. Had originally considered stopping in Rapperswil for a wander on the way, but after a month, we were ready to just simplify things and get to Zürich. Happy to wander around the old part of town anyway. Such a contrast, of course - seemed so noisy and busy. And the designer stores, kind of fascinating, after Sils with its sports stores and local produce (eg cheeses). We booked the Hotel St Josef in Zürich again, like the location, the breakfast, the rooms. And can get dinner on site. We have a 12 hour flight ahead, then an 18 hour layover in Singapore, then a 7 hour flight (overnight flight, so no sleep). This is the worst part. A few random shots of Zürich... |
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Upmarket shopping https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...292b8e1bf.jpeg Old town https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b6b0d222.jpeg Nice alleys https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c73942d6e.jpeg Neumarkt https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cff79aff.jpeg Nice alleys https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...393f094fa.jpeg Colourful and creative stores https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b359b46e5.jpeg Gracious architecture https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0e73f7d1.jpeg Impressive storage https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80a3a3dff.jpeg Old town https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f349381f.jpeg Fancy cars outside, fancy people inside https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea29178d8.jpeg Shopfronts |
This was a very relaxing holiday. No frenetic schedules or a fear of ‘missing anything’. Had a general idea of what we wanted to do, and let the weather and our mood dictate how that flowed. One thing we agreed we would do differently: no 2 night stays. We prefer to ‘settle in’ to a location, find a favourite cafe, get familiar with transport. So, likely just pick 5-7 night stays next time. Thanks again to all who helped me refine my itinerary, the generosity of strangers is fantastic. Having said that, some of you have also messaged me with even more suggestions, and I feel like I’ve made friends. So grateful :) |
It's over? Ah man....
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I cannot believe that month is already over! I like your travel style, just like my own. Have a safe trip home!
No problem about the situation in Sils. I guess I'll have to go and see myself ;-) |
Thanks so much for the great "live" report and wonderful pictures. It brought back such fond memories of my time living in Suisse Romande, travelling about, and being pushed by seniors as they raced up the hiking trails.
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Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 16949808)
Ingo, we nearly did that walk :) Hambagahle, I guess a virtual trip to Sils will have to do for you then. Lake Thun is lovely, though, and we passed through Gunten, it does look very pretty. Enjoy that trip. Sberg, hope you get to Switzerland, too. |
Originally Posted by Ingo
(Post 16949972)
Adelaidean, if you could do me a favour, please? There was an apartment block built across the street from Hotel Edelweiss, where you stay. I haven't seen it (yet) but am afraid it might have been built on the grounds of the small garden right by the river that belongs to Hotel Edelweiss. Could you maybe take a photo of the situation and post it? I would owe you a glass of Bündner Pinot Noir ;-)
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Hambagahle, thank you for this info. Yes, I know there is very little room on the Edelweiss side of the river, just for their small garden, and yet, you never know ... I am happy to know it still exists and the apartment building is on the other side of the river. Thanks again!
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