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-   -   Our month in Switzerland (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/our-month-in-switzerland-1668229/)

mokka4 Jun 19th, 2019 04:49 PM

Aaaah Kandersteg!
Stayed there for 2 weeks at least 15 years ago!
Back then, only an open chairlift soared through the mountains to reach Oeschinensee!
Beautiful. We made the toe-killing mistake of hiking back down...

Melnq8 Jun 20th, 2019 05:07 AM

We too hiked up (and back down) in several feet of snow one year when the cable car was closed. Good times.

Adelaidean Jun 20th, 2019 07:30 AM

Day 11: Thun (day trip to Bern)

Overcast day today, a reminder of how important it is to allow a few days in locations to plan around weather. Sunny day yesterday, so that was our mountains day. Grey and low cloud today, so opted for Bern.

Long, slow breakfast first.

Bought tickets to Bern on the SBB App (CHF 16.40 each return)

Bern seems to be a construction zone, with the cathedral tower renovation and preparation for an electric street racing event (Formula-e) on Saturday….trucks, portable toilets, stages, traffic control, film crews, the track, so a bit tricky to move around with the dodging of tour groups as well.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd14adf98.jpeg
Skyline
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ecafa563.jpeg
City skyline
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...397e3bb99.jpeg
Houses on the river
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae47b3c17.jpeg
River surfer
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41dbe1529.jpeg
Gorgeous rooftops
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33fe62e07.jpeg
Terraced gardens
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...916096241.jpeg
River Aare
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1cd7ca969.jpeg
Sloping streets
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a67cf658a.jpeg
Rooftops
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a1ca21e3.jpeg
Houses on river
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5bf90be66.jpeg
More rooftops


We just wandered, cathedral, Rathaus, river, rose garden. Very pretty city. No museums. Ate at a little sandwich store, a smoked trout open sandwich each and craft beer for him, lemon syrup drink for me. The young lady serving told us she’d been open 2 days, was a pop up business for the next 2 months. So we sat a bit longer and had coffee and cake, and wished her well in her new venture. It was quite sunny by now, Bern is certainly more attractive when the sun shines. Especially loved the tiled rooftops, turquoise river, and the city skyline view from near Rosengarten.

The construction for the event...


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66ef9b080.jpeg
Electric vehicles
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9d5a27727.jpeg
Sponsor
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1dca3df0.jpeg
Trying to get a level on cobblestoned street!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c37f20de.jpeg
Event staging


I’d have liked to visit Murten, but didn’t want to add anything more to our day. More ambitious travellers would fit it in.

WeisserTee Jun 20th, 2019 07:42 AM

LOL, you inspired me to get out of Basel for the day and I’m in Bern too! Having a glass of wine at Verdi then dinner at Krone.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea8a87305.jpeg

Adelaidean Jun 20th, 2019 07:46 AM

Cheers WeisserTee!

Mokka and Mel, I salute you, no way we’d walk up or down that hill, LOL.

Melnq8 Jun 20th, 2019 04:34 PM

Adelaidean - you've reminded me that it's been ages since we did more than pass through Bern.

Looking forward to your impressions of Scuol...and perhaps some Nusstorte?

KayF Jun 20th, 2019 10:46 PM

Love your report and photos, thanks for sharing. We're from Brisbane and have been to lots of places in your photos, we even stayed at the same hotel in Montreaux, about 25 years ago. The tourist office booked it for us and I was amazed we got something at our meagre budget that was so nice. You are making me want to book flights to Switzerland right now! It's such a beautiful country. We travel like you too, making time for coffee and cake in the afternoon is an absolute priority ;) I love sitting people-watching.

Kay

Adelaidean Jun 21st, 2019 04:52 AM

Day 12: Thun (day trip Sigriswil…)

Today we took bus #25 from Thun Bahnhof to Sigriswil Dorf (end of line 25 mins ride).

Some hairpin curves heading uphill from the lake, gorgeous views of lake and mountains and houses clinging to hillsides.

Walked across suspension bridge to Aeschlen (CHF 4) after chatting to the gentleman selling tickets.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72e6bff69.jpeg
Sigriswil
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cf0e32dc.jpeg
Sigriswil


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21f3b5d1f.jpeg
The suspension bridge
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...254e393cb.jpeg
Views across to Aeschlin
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e7635b08.jpeg
Views to Mt Niesen
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...057da853b.jpeg
Views back to hillside above Sigriswil



Then walked through the gorge, back to Sigriswil.

Lovely forest, and waterfalls.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...997190621.jpeg
Lovely forest
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f638b5790.jpeg
Forest path
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3baae121d.jpeg
Huge trees
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4912779fd.jpeg
Waterfalls in the gorge
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1859779a3.jpeg
Path through gorge
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b3a58373.jpeg
Back to Sigriswil
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3032cfd23.jpeg
Bus stop, easy to work out connections


Enjoyed a pleasant lunch in this little village, sharing a soup, Rösti (dinner plate sized with 2 fried eggs and bacon...this was a meal for 1!,) and small salad, 2 beers (CHF 40).
Great value, too.

Nice to to have a quiet day after the crowds in Bern yesterday.

Thun is working out to be an excellent base, a nice town in itself, with great train, bus and boat connections.

enewell Jun 21st, 2019 11:17 AM

Loving both your trip report and photos! Thanks so much for taking the time to include details. I'm hoping Switzerland will be my next trip.

milaedg Jun 21st, 2019 11:36 AM

Fantastic photos!
 
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this trip report. You have given me great ideas on how to spend three weeks in Switzerland next year. We plan to spend a week in BO (revisit) and two weeks in the Upper and Lower Engadin. Looking forward to the Engadin portion on your trip. I just love your photos! Keep them coming please.

marg Jun 21st, 2019 02:38 PM

Love your trip report - the photos are great. So envious.

Adelaidean Jun 22nd, 2019 10:10 AM

Thanks for your interest.

Day 13: Thun to Scuol

Had a poor nights sleep, so many Friday night revellers, loud talking and laughing by passers by, the cobblestone road sweeper, we are not used to city noise.

We were in a hotel on Rathausplatz in Thun, so was to be expected.

Anyway, we are leaving Thun, to Brig, then GEX, then Scuol

It is 4:30 hrs to Scuol via Zurich and Landquart or nearly 7 hours on GEX (Glacier Express) ….or in our case, 8 hours….

Unfortunately, I did not read this helpful summary by ‘Hambaghale’, before I reserved seats on the GEX in 2nd class 3 months prior...

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopi...itzerland.html

...or I would have reserved seats in 1st class (reservations open 90 days prior, but can’t buy tickets until 60 days prior), that’s when I found that the Saver Day Pass was 49 CHF for both 1st and 2nd class (- couldn’t see how to upgrade my reservations, so just went with 2nd class). Half fare in 2nd class is 80 CHF otherwise, so Saver Day Pass good value. (There were no 29 CHF Saver Day Passes when I logged on to site within hours of release)


So cost for that day came to 122 CHF: Seat reservation @ 43 CHF (!) each, plus pre ordered the plate of the day (30 CHF each), then day pass @ 49 CHF.

Timing: SBB App showed connections as Thun 8:25 to Brig 9:11 then to Chur on GEX arr 1:26 Chur to Landquart then to Scuol arr 3:30, takes 7 hours (we opted to take earlier train from Thun, as this option only gives 7 minute connection for GEX)

Anyway, the GEX was not full, and seating quite spacious, so very comfortable. However, conductor said some passengers did not board, I wonder if the short connection an issue for people with too much luggage and not realising they have to cross the road to the platform, a few minutes easily lost.

There was a lot of cloud, so very minimal peak or glacier views, but at Oberalp we marvelled at the ice on the water. It did rain as well, so photos a bit poor.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d717f5a6c.jpeg
Glacier Express ride
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28b410d61.jpeg
Glacier Express ride




Not so disappointing for us (we’ve seen a lot of mountains) but the Singaporean’s alongside who only had 4 days for their entire trip would have hoped for a clear day.

Lunch was served about 12, a very good slow cooked beef, pasta and ratatouille.

Ongoing connection…. time for our smugness for taking the earlier train from Thun, to be quashed, as while we were first at the door to disembark the GEX and ran to meet our connecting train (7 min connection) we were still 20 m from it as it departed. And we were fast. The next train was 50 minutes away.

So, that added another hour to an already long day. We were tired from lack of sleep, also had an early rise, and missed a lot of scenery due to cloud and rain.

But, my frustration disappeared as we travelled through lovely landscape and increasingly sunny weather. Hubby, as always, found a passenger (and there were only 2 in our carriage!) to talk cricket to (an Indian chap, now living in Munich).

And the bus ride from Susch ( thanks ‘Ingo’ for the info about the bus exchange while train line being replaced), wow. What a ride. We passed the villages I had read so much about, Guarda, Ardez and even caught a glimpse of Tarasp Castle. A deep ravine, mountains, forests, so totally gorgeous. My kind of place. Then arrival at Scuol, not knowing where to go, a bus driver checked our map and told us to hop on, he was heading our way. And the Afida rep. waiting for us for key handover, what a delightful lady, with lots of great tips and so enthusiastic. We are only the second Australians to stay here.

Scuol looks so beautiful, loving it already. Our apartment is amazing. And the Coop is a few metres down the road, had 30 minutes before they closed, so bolted through, buying our supper and breakfast needs.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5afb338f5.jpeg
Supper on our balcony
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbf5e705f.jpeg
Supper on our balcony


Lovely supper on our balcony. Salmon tartare, tomatoes, kohlrabi, cheese, carrots, red wine, fabulous bread.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40c6ff915.jpeg
Wonderful cheese!

Melnq8 Jun 22nd, 2019 10:22 AM

Scuol looks so beautiful, loving it already.

Yea!

I'm confused about the Saver Day Passes. We usually buy Half Fare Cards. When does it pay to buy both...long journeys? Scenic trains?

Adelaidean Jun 22nd, 2019 11:48 AM

Mel, we only bought the Saver Day pass once, and that was for this journey. None of the others were over 49 CHF (apparently a small number available at 29CHF, but I never came across any). So the half fare card working out best for us.

Melnq8 Jun 22nd, 2019 12:00 PM

Thanks for that Adelaidean. Do have a bite of Nusstorte and some gerstensuppe for me!

Hambagahle Jun 22nd, 2019 11:14 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 16940695)
Mel, we only bought the Saver Day pass once, and that was for this journey. None of the others were over 49 CHF (apparently a small number available at 29CHF, but I never came across any). So the half fare card working out best for us.

Saver Day Pass - a relatively recent "product" from the SBB. Goes on sale 60 days out and from then to date of travel price rises and can even be withdrawn from the market. With a HFC price starts around 29frs in 2nd, 52frs in 1st. It provides free unlimited travel to any INHABITED place in Switzerland (and on the Centovalli line in Italy and Mt Blanc Express in France too) by any means - rail, bus, boat and in some limited cases cable car (e.g. to and from Mürren). This is a wonderful invention and makes combining the HFC with SDPs for longer travel days an economic reality.

Adelaidean - glad you made the GEX OK. We always take an earlier train when connecting in Brig! Seems that one needs to take a later one when arriving in the Engadin tough. Too bad about the 1st cl. Should there be another trip - either book in 1st rightaway or if you have seats in 2nd and want to upgrade then email their contact staff. They are very helpful. Hope you continue to enjoy things and it certainly looks as though you are. (and as an aside it seems I am now over the bronchitis, finally!!)

Paqngo Jun 23rd, 2019 06:04 AM

Your photos are beautiful and really enjoying your report.

nonconformist2 Jun 23rd, 2019 06:47 AM

Lovely lovely pictures!

Ingo Jun 23rd, 2019 07:12 AM

Wonderful trip report, Adelaidean! Thanks for taking the time posting pictures + text. So far it sounds like a fantastic trip. And with Grisons/Engadine portion coming now ... well, you'll have a blast, I am sure.

Btw, I like Thun very much, too. Similar to Lucerne and less touristy.

Your apartment in Scuol seems to be close to the main street. Great views from there! I stayed in an apartment for several years in the eastern part of the town (skiing with friends), and later often in an apartment on the opposite side of the valley in Vulpera. Excellent value there. Maybe you can see it from your balcony, turning your heads to the right ;-)

Adelaidean Jun 23rd, 2019 09:51 AM

Forgot to mention...where we stayed:

https://www.e-domizil.com/vacation-h...e-switzerland/ €920 for week, inc rental and booking fee on e-domizil

This is on Stradun, the main street, between the Hotel Belvedere and the Coop. I think you may have helped me work out ideal location for us, Ingo.

Apartment was chosen based on proximity to Coop, the balcony overlooks the old town and has stupendous views, is modern, has a fire, close to bus stops, very central. Love it.

Day 14: Scuol

Late start, very quiet here, nice to sleep in.

We took the bus to Guarda cumün, which is the stop high up in the village, the little bus meeting the big one from Scuol and whisking us up those hairpin curves to Guarda.

This village is often referred to as the prettiest village in the region due to the preservation of its architectural heritage - the sgraffito painted Engadin houses and it is perched high on a hill surrounded by mountains.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e0e7f3456.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b5748dd7.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6329386c.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5729cf98b.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dceab8e42.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdefcbd24.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43c80812b.jpeg
Guarda
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29e66ba79.jpeg
Guarda



We took the easy walk via Bos-cha to Ardez, another tiny Engadin village with similar architecture. A gorgeous walk, with mountains all around, flower filled meadows, forests.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34f2dec28.jpeg
Lovely views
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1135f1cd.jpeg
Meadows filled with flowers
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff3feed23.jpeg
Just beautiful



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aead05a90.jpeg
Meadow flowers
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66eda4726.jpeg
Walking down into Ardez
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8b7f4c97.jpeg
Flowers

Not thinking, of course, that Ardez would be a ghost town this lovely Sunday, and there’d be nowhere to dine. I assumed walkers would be around and at least soup and bread options. I asked an elderly resident, but she said the hotel nearby was opening for summer in July and possibly the one other option might be open...couldn’t see another soul anywhere dining on a terrace or anything. My bad. So, we snacked on my residual nuts and a chocolate bar, having just missed the bus (hourly). Nice spot to sit though.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c557d2e6.jpeg
Ardez
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17eba61e5.jpeg
Ardez
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...894bd52ba.jpeg
Ardez

Decided to ‘eat in’, hubby buying some pasta and chicken for dinner (Volg open Sunday, hubby happy to cook in our fab kitchen while I wandered old town below).


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35ced2b84.jpeg
Scuol
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...895474756.jpeg
Scuol
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0689bf9a6.jpeg
Scuol
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01f7122ff.jpeg
Scuol

swandav2000 Jun 23rd, 2019 10:31 AM

Seriously killer photos!

Melnq8 Jun 23rd, 2019 01:19 PM

Thanks for the clarification on the Saver Day Pass Hambagahle.

The apartment looks wonderful Adelaidean - has it been quiet? We're staying in a new (to us) apartment in Scuol this year, as our old standby was booked. Hopefully it's a good choice.

We've made the same mistake in Ardez - arrived hungry and no place to eat!

Love seeing the Engadine in full summer attire - such a difference from winter.

Adelaidean Jun 23rd, 2019 09:18 PM

Mel, just remembered that we spoke to someone that took the Flixbus Munich to Chur for €15, he was happy with service and price.

swandav2000 Jun 23rd, 2019 09:42 PM

Hi guys!

May I say a word about Flixbus?

I've taken it several times from Garmisch, both north to Munich and the airport, and south to Innsbruck. It was late more often than it was in time -- like seriously, hours late. A friend of mine took it to the airport in Munich, and it was 45 minutes late, and she almost missed her flight out.

Because it runs on the roads, of course it is vulnerable to traffic problems and staus. And Munich is notorious for traffic problems, road construction, and staus. I avoid it now, even when tempted by their schedule.

I also find it really uncomfortable, especially in conjunction with an overnight flight. The seats and cabin are too much like flying economy -- tight seats, high seatbacks, no leg room, and ONE tiny over-used toilet in the back. And you can't walk around to stretch your legs. I really far prefer a train wagon, with all that space and air and opportunity to move around.

But. Flixbus has started to run trains on some routes, and that could be very, very interesting. I am eager to try one of their trains.

s

Adelaidean Jun 23rd, 2019 09:58 PM

Good point, swandav, we have been spoiled by the excellent train and bus system here, haven’t ever tried Flixbus but I remember Mel asking about it.

Hambagahle Jun 23rd, 2019 11:11 PM

swandav raises a more than valid point about Flixbus. It has a reputation for being chronically late here in Switzerland too. Not a great option I think.

Adelaidean - if you can, get to Tarasp. It is a lovely small village. Guarda has won, several times, a competition for the prettiest village in Switzerland run by a Romande magasine, l'Illustré. Seeing your photos this is no surprise!

dreamon Jun 24th, 2019 01:52 AM

Adelaidean, I just want to rush off back to Switzerland. Your photos are divine! Thanks for sharing your trip report and photos.

john183 Jun 24th, 2019 05:13 AM

Wow! What a great trip you planned and executed. Outstanding photos with a very informative and detailed trip report. Well done! You are certainly displaying the incredible beauty of Switzerland.

Adelaidean Jun 24th, 2019 06:09 AM

Day 15: Scuol

Picked up some crusty rolls, nusstorte, shortbread and an almond pastry from Pastizaria Cantieni nearby (did I mention I love this location, LOL).


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...667818c84.jpeg
Lunch!


Made us some Engadin cheese and salami rolls, and packed our sweets, no missing lunch today!

Sunny day.
Just some housekeeping to do before we set off (sons having problems with washing machine and car at home, we are troubleshooting by instant messaging).

We finally headed to the Motta Naluns gondola by the train station in Scuol (CHF 14.50 each round trip, gondola, chairlift Prui and bus return from Ftan).

A really stupendous view on the way up, lots of walking trails, an easy stroll to Prui (families with prams, kids on bikes).


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f16b0c376.jpeg
Hang glider
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d831853e.jpeg
Surrounded by mountains
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...258eee8b1.jpeg
Fields of flowers
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f55eb6a27.jpeg
Looking down on Tarasp castle
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...072dc05c9.jpeg
Looking up to mountains



Then the chairlift down to Ftan. Brilliant. Sweet little village. Great views of Tarasp castle from chairlift, too.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...900694aad.jpeg
Ftan
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c801d7e5.jpeg
Tarasp castle from the bus
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d95f3043.jpeg
Tarasp castle
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...111911f0d.jpeg
Zooming in on Tarasp castle
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6db593bf.jpeg
Peak hour in Ftan...tractor, hikers, bikers...


It’s so easy to get around here, the train station / bus station interconnect, bus lanes clearly showing whether heading to Sent, Ftan, Susch, etc, and staff are so helpful.
In fact, we tried a local bus and bought point to point tickets from the machine at the stop. When we enquired about a 10 ticket option, the attendant said we had paid too much, there are cheaper tickets only if you buy direct from the driver (just the local town bus) and she gave us a refund!


Ingo Jun 24th, 2019 09:07 AM

That is how I remember the Lower Engadine. You will have brilliant weather the next days, too (although probably too warm.) So I expect more pictures like these :-) Please!! :-)

Melnq8 Jun 24th, 2019 02:05 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 16941394)
Mel, just remembered that we spoke to someone that took the Flixbus Munich to Chur for €15, he was happy with service and price.

Good to hear. We've only used it once, on that very route, but were also very pleased.

And, that's my kind of lunch!

Adelaidean Jun 25th, 2019 06:48 AM

Day 16: Scuol

Bus to Ramosch, then a little Postbus to Vnà (1600 m elevation) about 11 km from Scuol (thanks ‘Mel’ for sharing this excursion idea) about CHF 9 each return.

It’s warm here, 33 C in Scuol today!

Sunny, blue skies and a sweaty walk.

Love how you naturally chat to people on the bus, obviously hikers, all elderly, I think mostly Swiss.

Met couples from Lucerne and Basel, nice to talk about travel and life.

Vnà is a charming little farming hamlet, clinging to the mountainside. Lovely buildings, a little church, a stunning setting, industrious farmers busy in their fields.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7806d6281.jpeg
Vnà
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f34e66e83.jpeg
Vnà
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b53bc238c.jpeg
Vnà
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23f11b3cb.jpeg
Vnà
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3027ff544.jpeg
Vnà


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cdf55490.jpeg
Farming in the mountains
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17aa3af11.jpeg
He was at this all day, different fields!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7b0de024.jpeg
Really steep



Took us over 2 hours to walk to Hof Zuort, we took the path above the road as there was more shade, and lots of photo stopping. The return was quicker, probably 1:15 hours, and we took the road.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06871e8ac.jpeg
Lots of trails
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...619eba490.jpeg
Delicious dumplings and salad
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df6d2b5b4.jpeg
Hof Zuort
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...732f6f651.jpeg
Path to Hof Zuort
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc7ab92e7.jpeg
Fields of flowers
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fdb2ce443.jpeg
The bus going to Val Sinestra in the distance, opposite side of valley
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7058926f.jpeg
Bus to Val Sinestra
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43d91c742.jpeg
Bus going to Val Sinestra, opposite side of valley


It’s a lovely walk, very peaceful, forests, mountains, farming, and the arrival in Hof Zuort like reaching paradise. Cold beer!!

Great lunch. Convivial atmosphere.

Another great day. Switzerland is amazing!

Ingo Jun 25th, 2019 10:03 AM

One of my favourite excursions in the area, in both summer AND winter! Too bad you didn't walk back via Kurhaus Val Sinestra to Sent - much shade there, two exciting suspension bridges, superb views approaching Sent - and that village is picturesque, too!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e94e03d3e3.jpg
Suspension bridge

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dfbde7dda0.jpg
View towards Sent and Tarasp

Adelaidean Jun 25th, 2019 10:34 AM

Ingo, another couple were doing just that, and we wondered where that went.
Your photos are great, the other people did mention a suspension bridge.
Hmmm, maybe we will do that another day...

Melnq8 Jun 25th, 2019 11:28 AM

Glad you enjoyed the excursion! 33 C though, yikes, a bit warm for me.

And full credit to Ingo for telling me about the walk several years ago - we've walked it on every visit to Scuol, and probably will again in October.

We walked back to Sent one year - via the road as the trail was closed in winter....it was a loooong walk.

Ingo Jun 25th, 2019 11:33 PM

Thanks, Mel ;-)

Adelaidean, I probably wouldn't do that on this same trip. Too many other options! Btw, did you drink some free mineral water? Maybe you noticed that on several little squares the fountains have two taps - from one comes regular (drinking) water, from the other mineral water. Each is from a different spring, with different minerals. Some taste great, others ... umm, not ;-)

In this heatwave you might enjoy a walk through the Clemgia gorge. A suggestion for a nice walk would be from castle Tarasp to Lake (Laj) Nair, to hamlet Avrona (restaurant: www.avrona.ch - it is open!), down to Clemgia gorge, back to Scuol via one of the bridges spanning the Inn river (either the high one or the covered one below the church.)

Also, S-charl is a very nice excursion. The hamlet is at 1800 m, with two restaurants, and from there you can walk to the highest Swiss pine forest in the Alps (God da Tamangur). Add another half hour round trip and you get to an Alp (pasture) with cows where you can get a glass of milk, some cheese or so. (I hiked from Pass dal Fuorn/Ofen pass - about 4.30 hrs to S-charl, bus to Scuol).

Adelaidean Jun 26th, 2019 07:51 AM

Day 17: Scuol

Still hot here, heatwave widespread across Europe. Over 30 C all week, lucky we are in the mountains, cities across Europe are sweltering.

Needed something cool to do (Ingo, Clemgia “ist geschlossen”, but a walk in forest might have been on the cards had we not been so hot, and I think our walks and your hikes are 2 very different things, LOL)

Visited Tarasp castle, a 10 minute bus ride from Scuol. Tours are at 2:30 and 3:30, can only visited by guided tour (no photos). It is now owned by Not Vital (well known local artist) so has some curious modern art inside. Otherwise, the ruined castle was renovated about 100 years ago, stunning wooden inlaid doors, carved ceilings, furnishings. Tour lasts about 50 minutes. Then we had the option of a sweaty 2 hour walk or a beer while waiting for the bus….


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Not Vital art in lake
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On the way up to the castle
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Castle renovations
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Castle renovations
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Bronzed tree artwork
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Tarasp castle
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Tarasp castle


While enjoying our beer, we chatted to some Swiss tourists. Their English better than my German.

Tarasp and Sparsels are charming little hamlets.


Help request here:

While checking how to reserve bus for our Thusis to Chiavenna bus ride, via Splügen (reservations compulsory) on Monday 1 st July, an alert pops up about ‘an event’ and that bus 561 is suspended. This website indicates landslide https://www.alpen-paesse.ch/en/ and not open until 7/7, I realise an option is to train to St Moritz and bus onward, so if not open yet, we will still get there, but does anyone have any other route suggestion?
(We are staying in Thusis to visit the Viamala gorge and the church in Zillis, then had hoped to bus through the Splügen Pass for our stay in Chiavenna.)

Adelaidean Jun 26th, 2019 08:12 AM

How does this route sound, via Julierpass?

(We will go onward to Sils Maria, and eventually Zurich, so will do that lovely train ride again between Preda and Tiefencastel then. )


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Ingo Jun 26th, 2019 09:29 AM

Too bad about the Clemgia gorge! The heatwave is awful. Thankfully here in Eastern Germany it only lasts two days, we're getting a break tomorrow and on Friday. Much cooler next week! YAY!

That schedule sounds doable. 6 minutes for changing buses is not much, considering that it is a pass road with a lot of (also truck) traffic that you are taking (Julier Pass.) You don't like the 10.30 train to St. Moritz and Postbus from there to Chiavenna, eh? But you can still take this one (dep. 12.15 from St. Moritz) if you miss the earlier one. Yes, the Julier pass route is scenic and if you haven't been there yet, take it!

Ingo Jun 26th, 2019 09:31 AM

Btw, did the tour guide mention who reconstructed castle Tarasp 100 years ago? Karl August Lingner, entrepreneur from my city, Dresden. ;-) I bet the organ was mentioned - built by Jehmlich, also in Dresden (and still in business in umpteenth generation.)


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