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-   -   Our month in Switzerland (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/our-month-in-switzerland-1668229/)

Adelaidean Jun 26th, 2019 09:39 AM

Thanks, Ingo, yes, we will do that train ride on our way back, that’s why I didn’t choose the 10:30 train - so was looking for a Postbus pass trip.
You’re right, the connection is tight, but doesn’t really matter, we can catch next one if we need to.

Adelaidean Jun 26th, 2019 09:41 AM

Yes, but my German not good enough for the tour details really. Most of it I had to read up on.
But a great castle to visit!

Melnq8 Jun 26th, 2019 12:02 PM

Wasn't the castle previously owned by a mouthwash company?

Ingo Jun 26th, 2019 12:07 PM

The owner of the castle owned that mouthwash company. He owned the castle privately.

Melnq8 Jun 26th, 2019 12:15 PM

Gotcha, thanks Ingo.

Nelson Jun 26th, 2019 05:56 PM

Still following and enjoying a lot! Thanks.

For my August trip I’ll be doing some moderately difficult hiking, but after seeing your beautiful photos I have to wonder: why bother?! :)

Adelaidean Jun 26th, 2019 08:00 PM

Mel, Lingner (of the Odol mouthwash company) did the major renovation and died in 1916, the current owner (Not Vital, the artist) purchased it in 2016. There is a bottle of Odol mouthwash sitting in one of the bathrooms in the castle, nice touch.

Nelson, there are a huge range of walks here, don’t be misled when you see elderly hikers take off down one path - it’s still likely to be long and hard, LOL. I used this website https://map.schweizmobil.ch/?lang=en...8651&N=1187242
with its interactive map and the TI brochures, there’s always a wanderweg with families on bikes and prams, so lots of choices.

Nelson Jun 26th, 2019 08:15 PM

Thanks much Adelaidean, that's a great site. Bit of a learning curve but looks to be well worth it. Appreciate it.

I'll confess I had to look up wanderweg, a nice word.

Safe travels!

Hambagahle Jun 27th, 2019 01:22 AM

Adelaidean - I think the best route Thusis/Chiavenna is via St Moritz and Bus 4. TCS gives Splügen as closed till 7 July too. I realise on bus 4 you are "re-visiting" places you know but they are lovely places... And I am curious should you take bus 4 to know if the road work around the post office in Sils Maria is finished or not. Bus stop was temporarily moved to near one of the sports shops at the entrance to the village...I am not sure what the traffic situation is there now and our hotel is close to the Post Office!

Adelaidean Jun 27th, 2019 09:49 AM

Day 18: Scuol

Another hot day, so opted to have a bus excursion day.

Hubby chose to stay in Scuol and explore lower town and do a forest walk.

I had the good fortune to be on the bus with a lively group of 22 elderly people from Zug heading out for their Swiss National Park walk.

So we chatted on the bus to Susch, then I trained to Zernez and took bus on to St John‘s monastery in Müstair, while the hikers alighted somewhere in between. The average age mid 70’s, the oldest in the group is 83! They were off for a 4 hour hike “only 2 hours uphill”...

Wonderful bus ride, a nice way to see some towns and countryside.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b0c5be8c.jpeg
Big bus, narrow streets
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d5b139a0.jpeg
Beautiful scenery
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68d99a702.jpeg
Lovely

Müstair is a lovely town and the church has incredible frescoes. It is a UNESCO world heritage site.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...764a7cf56.jpeg
Frescoes in abbey church
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...391c540ae.jpeg
Ceiling in abbey church
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2a97aca6.jpeg
Chapel and cemetery


A short wander through town

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9e9338b8.jpeg
Nice town
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...352ae009e.jpeg
Main street

And then the bus on to Glurns / Glorenza (Italy). A tiny walled town. 35C here, so sheltered under those cool, thick arches.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b48a3cbc.jpeg
Cool portico
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89d9ee924.jpeg
Main street
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acd8f2452.jpeg
Main street
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56171871c.jpeg
Walled town

There may have been a bit of dog stalking (missing ours)


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83dfc04f3.jpeg
Hitching a ride
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...242b1680a.jpeg
Yes, I’m pretty



Then bus on to Mals / Malles, for onward bus to Martina. I didn’t have an onward ticket and forgot I’d be in Italy with no Euros, the driver spoke no English or German and I held up my ticket thus far with some Swiss francs and he just pointed me to a seat (sorry, Italy, I didn’t pay my way).

We passed the large dam with flooded church, and then those hairpin curves from Nauders (Austria) to Martina, lots of gesturing by our Italian driver, quite entertaining.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed91c36db.jpeg
Near Mals
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd8d25b37.jpeg
The flooded church
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22659eb72.jpeg
Looking back towards Mals from the bus
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d80c541be.jpeg
Near Scuol


And then an easy 25 minute bus ride back to Scuol. Great way to pass a hot day.

dreamon Jun 27th, 2019 01:25 PM

What a great day! I had been looking into exploring that area but didn't realise you could do that sort of circuit in a single day. What would it be like in winter do you think?

Adelaidean Jun 27th, 2019 08:14 PM

Dreamon, Mel has based in Scuol in winter, and uses public transport, if you read her reports you will find lots of ideas for winter.


Ingo Jun 27th, 2019 09:00 PM

You did a great loop, Adelaidean! I have wanted to do that for several years now, but never managed. Always something else that came up ;-) Did you visit the museum in the Benedictine nunnery? Btw, the building on that zoom picture is abbey St. Marienberg. You can visit this, too. Amazing crypt there.

WeisserTee Jun 28th, 2019 08:43 AM

I know that cocker!! We’ve seen that lovely dog on an English Cocker FB group we belong to. ❤️

Adelaidean Jun 28th, 2019 10:40 AM

Day 19: Scuol

Still hot.

We did a morning wander along the river near Scuol, a lot of trails are closed, as is the gorge. We saw a deer and a squirrel :)

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42f0e7736.jpeg
River Inn
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05da11ecd.jpeg
Vulpera
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c8c920ac.jpeg
Forest path


Returned to town and visited the Scuol church on the hill (the ‘Reformierte Kirche’) and walked through another old part of Scuol (Bügl Grond), enjoying the Engadin architecture.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abe39ba39.jpeg
Reformierte kirche
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eaca4c15a.jpeg
Reformierte kirche


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b6866adc.jpeg
Sweet plazas
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23a7b3629.jpeg
Old town
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a2e5b887.jpeg
Favourite house


Cooling gelato afterwards.

Then took bus to S-charl, a 40 minute ride, only 13 km from Scuol, but feels quite remote. Only reachable by road in summer, not winter. It is quite a steep road. Lots of hairpin curves and deep gorge very near edge of road. A recent landslide, so clearance work happening.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d25663ede.jpeg
I got the front seat in the bus- recent landslide


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23f7c1cd0.jpeg
Landslide clearance


The bus doesn’t run often, every 2 or 3 hours, so plan accordingly. I think going up in morning for a walk, have lunch there, would be lovely.

Maybe a dozen houses and a little church, some farms, and 2 places to have a meal or drink. Lots of hikers and bikers there. Beautiful river and forest, and trails heading off.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f43fa9c5b.jpeg
Farming community

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56c751b77.jpeg
Tiny hamlet, still has a church


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3eea27d3.jpeg
Beautiful landscape



The bus ride alone was worth it, and the little hamlet is nestled in a high valley with great views, really pretty. I thought it would be cooler, given it sits at 1800 m elevation, but it was still hot.

There is a lead and silver mine museum which I didn’t visit.


Tonight we ate at Astras Restaurant, just a few doors up from our apartment. Finally had capuns! Really light, so comfortable for a very warm evening. Delicious. Thanks to everyone that put them on my “to try” list.

Reflections on leaving Scuol...recommend it for transportation hub with great day excursion possibilities, many accommodation and restaurant options, good grocery stores, quiet despite being a hub, a hikers paradise but also good for us who stroll, rather than hike.

No selfie sticks here, but lots of walking poles! Mostly Swiss tourists, rather than international.

Ingo, I did not get to that museum. And Weissertee, that is funny, recognising that dog!


Hambagahle Jun 28th, 2019 11:30 PM

Lovely photos -- when you go to Chiavenna on the 4 bus take a look at the remains of the landslide on your left at Bondo - in the Bregaglia, at the bottom of the Maloja pass. It knocked out almost the whole village.

Adelaidean Jun 29th, 2019 03:25 AM

Yes, we were there just after it happened in 2017, Hambagahle.



Hambagahle Jun 29th, 2019 11:57 PM

[QUOTE=Adelaidean;16944097]
Yes, we were there just after it happened in 2017, Hambagahle.

I had forgotten that, Adelaidean -- we saw it a bit later than you but what a terrible and huge thing.

Adelaidean Jun 30th, 2019 06:49 AM

Day 20: Scuol to Thusis

Still hot.

Our journey to Thusis was about 3 hours (bus to Susch, train to Samedan, train to Thusis via Preda and Tiefencastel). As it’s not the fastest route, SBB will route via Chur, but I knew I wanted the scenic route so added a “via” Samedan and Preda to get the routing I wanted. It’s just beautiful, and the time goes so quickly. Clear blue skies this time, compared to a week ago on the GEX where we saw very little (just before the Europe heatwave began). Packed our leftovers for a train picnic lunch.

Typical Engadin bus driver with a cheery “Allegra” as we took off. Sorry to say goodbye to the Lower Engadin. It’s been lovely.

Some photos en route to show the scenery…


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da93fd6a0.jpeg
Beautiful train ride

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83f59ad69.jpeg
Sweet villages

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a142fdfa.jpeg
Villages

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4950df225.jpeg
Bergün

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9419de4a8.jpeg
Stunning

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d14a78dc1.jpeg
Tiefencastel



We are staying at the Weiss Kreuz hotel in Thusis. Nice hotel on the main street. Very helpful manager, who gave us maps and bus guidance. Still really hot so we went for a short stroll through the old part of town, and along the river. Houses tightly packed with no front garden, step right on to street. Walking behind them was interesting, steep drop at the rear, as river quite close. Wooden balconies and some terraced gardens, then some forest and the river. Just beautiful.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8e17fa17.jpeg
Big bus, narrow street

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2867338a.jpeg
Soaring cliffs

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...855f2f90c.jpeg
Rear of houses, hugging hillside

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96a26c085.jpeg
Cliffs and gorges


Needing a beer, at the witching hour after 2 pm, hubby spotted what looked like a closed terrace, but a wander inside a nearby empty restaurant found us an owner happy to sell us a beer, walking us through his kitchen to the terrace. He is from Naples and came to Switzerland to ensure the future for his family. Loves Naples, however. We told him our plans for the bus ride through the Splügen pass were affected by the closure of the pass and he said it was a catastrophe for businesses like him, relying on through traffic on sunny weekends.

Had dinner at our hotel, I had an ok gesternsuppe (too creamy) and Rösti (nothing compares to Maloja’s Schweizerhaus Rösti). But the outdoor terrace very pleasant.

Poor night's sleep, too hot.

Adelaidean Jun 30th, 2019 07:08 AM

Day 21: Thusis

36C today, so changed plans. Bus schedule is every 2 hours so opted to skip Zillis and the church, and just bus to Viamala gorge and hike back (shade in morning, plus much forested).

Only 10 minutes to gorge by bus, which was full this sunny hot Sunday (families, hikers). 6 CHF entry to the amazing gorge, impossible to get scale in photos, but so spectacular.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f668d7c36.jpeg
Viamala gorge

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c18eb2ab4.jpeg
Viamala gorge

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83e46bf94.jpeg
Viamala gorge



We then took hike A back to Thusis see options on this map…


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a97fa503e.jpeg
Hiking options



Swiss time for hike is 3 hours 10 mins, we took 4 hours ...lots of uphill/ downhill and sections where I couldn’t look down, my stomach was flip flopping…...amazing scenery, but deep gorge and very steep.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5582dbdc0.jpeg
Uphill track

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5894eba8b.jpeg
Mushroom spotting... and track

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4b0e8188.jpeg
Huge cliffs


So hot in the sun. Lucky much of walk in forest and shaded side of gorge this time of day.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29732b7b0.jpeg
Suspension bridge

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eea4cd46b.jpeg
Deep gorges

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23d696e06.jpeg
Distant views

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c40b0cc62.jpeg
Mountains in distance

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dffc1ff18.jpeg
Thusis below

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fa6bcffb.jpeg
Distant town on hillside

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c50ef6fe.jpeg
Ruins (Hohenratien)

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3034acb84.jpeg
Cliffs above us - hot in the sun

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18dd496cb.jpeg
Signage en route


Best beer ever at our Napoli guy’s terrace ….


Melnq8 Jun 30th, 2019 07:29 AM

Still hot.

Adelaidean - you once asked why we don't visit Switzerland in the summer. This would be one of the main reasons!

Treesa Jun 30th, 2019 07:38 AM

Stunning photos. Thank you.

Leely2 Jun 30th, 2019 07:02 PM

Love this helpful report and and of course all your wonderful photos. Thank you so much.

Adelaidean Jun 30th, 2019 08:37 PM

Ha, Mel, slept with wet face washers on us overnight. It sure isn’t comfortable.

Thanks for commenting, nice to know someone is reading :)


WeisserTee Jun 30th, 2019 10:40 PM

Great photos but.... isn’t there a pool somewhere near you where you could exchange hiking for swimming in cool water? Switzerland has tons of outdoor pools with amazing views. If you swam during the last hours before closing you would be refreshed and probably sleep better...but maybe the storms predicted for the next couple of days will cool things off...hope your hot hotels at least gave you a fan!

Ingo Jul 1st, 2019 12:01 AM

That heatwave is really a pain. Very brave of you that you did that hike! Yep, I guess spending some time in a pool would be a good idea ;-) Very beautiful pictures again, Adelaidean! I keep my fingers crossed it gets a bit cooler.

Hambagahle Jul 1st, 2019 12:24 AM

You should be feeling cooler today, Adelaidean -- at least here a mammoth storm came through last night and the temperatures plunged! It was only 17° this morning as opposed to 24° the day before. Hope that this is also the case in Thusis!

Your photos of the Viamala gorge are stunning. Next time I drive home from Sils I will stop there for a walk... I think you should write a travel guide to hiking in the Graubunden!

Adelaidean Jul 1st, 2019 04:20 AM

Just arrived to a thunderstorm in Chiavenna. Lovely to travel via Sils Maria again...Hambaghale I noticed the bus stop is partly finished, framework shelter up, but no roofing yet.

Off to find something to eat. Our train was 20 mins late, so no time to pick up sandwich in St Moritz.

Adelaidean Jul 1st, 2019 10:45 PM

Day 22: Thusis to Chiavenna

Forgot to mention our Napoli pizzeria (Boccalino’s) was a great place for pizza last night. And close to our hotel. I tried artichoke on my salami and olive pizza for the first time, really nice addition.

(Forecast for 34 C in Chiavenna today, while Thusis is starting to cool off.)

As mentioned before, my previous plan had us taking the bus to Chiavenna via the Splügen pass, but a recent landslide has not yet been cleared. So, back on the same route we came, which is a stunning train ride anyway.

So, the plan was Thusis to St Moritz, with 15 mins between train and bus so enough time to get some picnic lunch in St Moritz. And then, a bus ride from St Moritz to Maloja and down the Maloja pass to Chiavenna. We have done this route several times, spectacular scenery and charming villages.

Oh well, the best laid plans….the train was running late and therefore having to wait for oncoming trains to pass through tunnels (lots of tunnels on this line) compounding our delay.

So, instead of a 15 minute interval in St Moritz between train and bus - we arrived 20 minutes late, but our train conductor said the bus driver might wait, as it was only a 5 minute delay for him.

And so it was, we were ready at the train door on arrival in St Moritz, bolted for the bus, and were on our way.

Love this part of the world. Delightful drive again. Cool air coming through the roof vent, hooray.

A few minutes walk from the train / bus interchange in Chiavenna is our bnb, “Centro Storico”, wonderful!

https://www.bed-and-breakfast.it/mob...-storico/44961


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f270f44b5.jpeg
Lounge
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1ca8ac52.jpeg
View from breakfast area
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...166d19b4d.jpeg
Breakfast balcony


Absolutely gorgeous, great location in a charming street filled with gelaterias, restaurants, bars, in a historic building, and a delightful couple who own it. We managed with smiles and grazies. €75 per night!

We found a cafe nearby that serves all day (we missed lunch) and had an excellent lasagna, tagliatelle, Greek salad, aperol spritz, beer, 2 espressos (€34!). €8 for a main and €1 for an espresso and €4 aperol spritz….we had reverse sticker shock.

Had a gentle walk after, a very compact, charming old town. Nestled in a lush valley, and housing built right to river edge.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38c66c38a.jpeg
Walking in the rain
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4fe59ae6b.jpeg
Housing right on river
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87ff0d487.jpeg
Chiavenna housing on river
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb2d6a90e.jpeg
Piazza


Monday night and we went for an evening walk, great buzz with people strolling, eating gelato, walking dogs or children, kids on bikes, bars open, locals catching up. Love the relaxed atmosphere. We had a nice late dinner of spaghetti with zucchini and prawns, wine, espresso, really light and tasty. Light on the wallet, too….


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33c2134f0.jpeg
Evening streets
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c654f47e3.jpeg
Evening streets
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...033f4e24c.jpeg
Lots of dog walkers
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09d012582.jpeg
Charming piazzas


Now, of course, the downside of all that ‘vibe’ is having to shut the window at 11pm because the street life doesn’t seem to have a home to go to. Don’t people work??

Adelaidean Jul 2nd, 2019 12:05 PM

Day 23: Chiavenna

Humid and over 30C today. Thunder, but no rain to cool things off. Looking forward to the cool Sils Maria tomorrow.

A pleasant slow day, while we visited the Church of San Lorenzo and the Park Paradiso, a lot more to experience here, such as the Trail Marmitte dei Giganti (ancient glaciers/ potholes/ formed by movement and melting of ice), crotti cold stores (several crotti restaurants) , - caves created from ancient landslides and used to store cheese and cured meat and wine, the 1500's estate Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, tour the old flour mill (the Mulino di Bottinera).



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68d375087.jpeg
Church of San Lorenzo
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3336f5eef.jpeg
Church of San Lorenzo
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98b1706ef.jpeg
Church of San Lorenzo

But we had no agenda, just wandering where it was cool, and the path between the huge rock wall and houses was just that. Fascinating how the housing was built around and into existing rock.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e2cfdcd1.jpeg
Built right up to rock
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93284bccb.jpeg
Houses built into cliffside
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c812a34a.jpeg
Built up to rock face


Climbed up to a lookout over the town. Eating gelati. Buying fruit. Observing locals chatting in the street - there must be real social benefits from a lifestyle where one doesn’t feel isolated at home, but can chat as walking the dog or grandchildren, there’s always a conversation happening in the little stores, older men solving world problems at the street bars, kids racing their bikes.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0eb50e54c.jpeg
Walk to lookout
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e6d7b0c8.jpeg
Walk to lookout
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6372eee1d.jpeg
Mountains surrounding Chiavenna
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f292efce.jpeg
Lookout over Chiavenna
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff4bb3dde.jpeg
Villages in surrounding hillside, steeply terraced


An afternoon rest, and a pre dinner drink in the square watching the locals come together.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e22c22d0b.jpeg
Locals catching up
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30c3f5b1d.jpeg
Palazzo Salis
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4bc6b0123.jpeg
Old town


Trattoria del Mercato for dinner. Steak, potatoes, salad, wine, espresso, grappa, dessert, excellent meal €92.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cd12c268.jpeg
Dinner
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bd6bb856.jpeg
Dinner


Still a lot of action outside when we were in our room at 10.00pm. The bar and gelateria down below quite bustling.


Ingo Jul 2nd, 2019 12:23 PM

Excellent pictures as always. I never managed to stay in Chiavenna, only did (a couple of) day trips from the Engadin. That trattoria looks familiar, though - maybe I had lunch there once? Does it have a terrace that sort of 'hangs' over the river? Anyway, the dinner looks yummy!

Sils will be *much* cooler!

Adelaidean Jul 2nd, 2019 02:45 PM

Yes, Ingo, we sat out on that balcony. It does hang over the river.

It’s 12.45 am on a Tuesday night, and cannot believe the noise outside. I guess I am not cut out for city living. Finally some slightly cooler breeze, but, can’t open the window because of a couple of groups of people sitting outside, (very loudly) talking and laughing, while all around are residential flats with people presumably trying to sleep?

Same last night.

Very much looking forward to getting to a cooler and quieter Sils Maria.


swandav2000 Jul 2nd, 2019 08:45 PM

Hi again!

Guess it's too late now....but I'll suggest you use ear plugs for sleeping (can buy in any apotheke) and open the windows! I always travel with earplugs and am even considering buying noise-cancelling headphones or earplugs for travel. I simply cannot sleep with closed windows, especially in the summer.

I've even had to use ear plugs a few times at my apartment in the summer....

Enjoy Sils!

s

Hambagahle Jul 3rd, 2019 01:54 AM

Earplugs are a good idea - I use them even at home (husband snores!). In the country in Italy most people still take a siesta after lunch then go back to work around 16h. So they are "re-charged" for the evening and it is a late evening. Plus Italians are very sociable as you have found out. Things are quieter in winter but as soon as the temperatures permit everyone is out on the street in the evening. They have a name for it - "la passiagata". I also travel with blindfolds ever since we had a hotel in Vienna with the window right under a street lamp! If you want to get ear plugs in Chiavenna go to any "Farmacia".

I am really enjoying your thread AND the photos, Adelaidean!

vickiebypass Jul 3rd, 2019 04:33 AM

I'm also following along - your photos and activities have inspired me to add Switzerland to my list!

Adelaidean Jul 3rd, 2019 08:57 AM

Day 24: Chiavenna to Sils Maria

Well, after a hot, noisy night (our friends on the street packed up at about 3am) we got to sleep. Nice breakfast on our balcony by our host. We are a few minutes from the bus / train interchange, and caught the number 4 which takes a little over an hour to Sils Maria. In hindsight, we think we’d have preferred to stay in Sils and day trip to Chiavenna, which is pretty compact and an easy bus ride.

However, we are in Sils Maria again, delightful place. This time I have booked a studio which is in the Hotel Edelweiss building, but not one of the ones owned by them.

Chesa Alvatern 5, a studio apartment, booked on e domizil https://www.e-domizil.com/vacation-h...e-switzerland/ €534 for 5 nights. Interhome in St Moritz manage the property and we rang asking for key pick up at the apartment rather than their office, fortunately they were very obliging. Left keys in a key safe and instructions for departure. Very happy with the studio, enough space to spread out and a compact kitchen.

We lunched at Grond, with gesternsuppe and a spinach ravioli, excellent; then shopped at the little Volg store, good enough range for holiday makers.

Enjoying the cool air and the serenity… a nice short walk behind the village, and then wine on our patio. Lovely.


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Serenity, beauty, fresh air
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This is why we return
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Forest road
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Flowers






Ingo Jul 3rd, 2019 09:30 AM

I am green of envy. And glad you finally made it to Sils :-)

Did I mention I stayed for two weeks in Hotel Edelweiss in 2008? Trip report is here, if anyone is interested.

Adelaidean Jul 3rd, 2019 09:41 AM

Ingo, great that you added your report link, I read it several times over the last few years, but sometimes reports are hard to find.
I love those little towns in the Val Bregaglia, always a thrill when we bus through Vicosoprano and don’t even shave off any plaster of the buildings, incredible driving skills!


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In the bus, passing homes in main street
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Photo from bus, passing homes in street


Ingo Jul 3rd, 2019 12:07 PM

Perfect photos, Adelaidean! I never thought of taking photos at that moment, was too fascinated with the bus driver's skills. ;-)

KayF Jul 3rd, 2019 06:58 PM

Really enjoying your report and photos Adelaidean, thanks for sharing :) The narrow roads that buses travel down in Europe can be mind-boggling, I guess especially to Australians where we are used to a lot more space. More than once in Europe I've shut my eyes, thinking nooooo.... the bus isn't going to make it....then OMG he did it! The drivers must have such good skills.

Kay


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